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Well..If I had the balls to get off my arse and do the same....
It does not matter, I believe, whether the water fluid dynamics mimic those of air, but only that his method is sufficiently precise...
There is no point that you have made that is not valid Roy.However I would like to add some angles. The longer the transparent tube is, the longer will be the dump time over the test and so consequently the tolerance in the stopwatch accuracy will become less significant.A half a second each end of 1 minute is not as significant as a half second in 30 seconds.Also, the flow rate will alter during the dump run because the mass of fluid above the butterfly is reducing. However this will not matter because you have tested the dump time over 10 or so runs on the good TB.We are only attempting to replicate the dump time on the maladjusted one. Anyone who replicated my rig will get a different reading for dump time, but it will be THAT figure they are attempting to replicate, not mine.For what it’s worth, what volume of water did you dump per minute ?Also I’ll reiterate that one can put a 50 thou’ or so packer under the stop screw on the control TB and put that same packer under the one for testing. This will allow for a higher flow rate and I have an inkling that this will yield more accurate results.But I cannot prove it..Yet...
You don't actually have to measure your Volume, you just measure time you don't even have to know the volume, that's one advantage.The flow will slow down as the head drops not the mass, its all about the pressure drop, that's why i say a 1/2" column will give the same flow rate as a 4" column at any given head (500mm in my case).But how would you convey that information to someone on the other side of the earth, they would have to duplicate your dimensions.I did try simulating a screwed with sacred screw using feeler gauges between the screw and the stop.Note: The throttle balance can also be checked, its just a matter of replicating the flow on the other body by adjusting the bell crank.I look forward to an on-going discussion.
I agree if you are working with one good body and one screwed body your rig will be fine.Look back at Moto's post ~22, he took my crude data and massaged it to show a pretty constant 30 mL per minute for the readings between run no 30 and 60Runs 0-30 were done with a dirty throttle body showing how important it is to scrub the throttle body and 60-90 were done with feeler gauges to simulate a fiddled with sacred screw.If you had a 2 Valve 1100 it should flow 30mL per minute, at least my Griso still has the paint seal intact on the screw.I'm sure you could extrapolate my results to match yours but the math required is beyond my 4 function calculator brain.Pressure is mass/area, I don't follow that, pressure is head, nothing to do with Volume or weight (mass), I'm probably confused.What I mean is the pressure at the bottom of my 500mm column is exactly half the pressure at the bottom of your 1,000mm one whatever the profile.We are probably saying the same thing.Whatever method you use i'm sure it will have good results, you will find it easy to dial in the screw.
I've always wondered about this "sacred screw" stuff. You'll have to enlighten me...what are the consequencses of someone tampering with said screw? The bike won't run? Won't idle" Runs poorly? All the above. The reason I ask is most V11's I've looked at show signs of the "Italian locktite" (yellow paint) on said screw having been broken. When you consider the multiple owners these bikes go thru, the odds of someone not fu*king with it seem low indeed. When Moto Guzzi was making V11's and other models with this throttle body, I can't imagine there was someone in the corner of the factory pulling each one out of a box and putting it individually on a flow bench. Kind of slows down the assembly line just a bit, don't you think? More likely they were set at the supplier before shipping.
Yes, if you look back on page 1 at the graph Moto did that's where its sitting, I had to enlarge the spout from 1/2" tube to reduce the back pressureRemember this is the normal air flow passage for ~1100 RPMI think its important that others can replicate your rig, they may not have the luxury of a good TB to measure, but if they have your good body data they don't need it they can just bung on the abused one and dial it in to match your good TB data. And don't forget the rig can be used to set the right hand TB balance as well using the Bell Crank screw.
Oh, just one more thing.I think that methylated spirits is a better choice than water, given that metho will pass through a small aperture more readily than water, thereby more closely resembling air.Probably not necessary, but a move in the right direction.
An air molecule is larger than a water module by half again, Water 2.75 Angstroms, Air 3.7, you may get more volume of air but not more mass.Water has the weirdest properties. The company I used to work for sold filter media that was so fine it would let water through but stop air in its tracks.Meths, I think you must be a pyromaniac at heart lol
Ok Gonzo Thankyou.Are you suggesting that for a given head, metho will not flow as freely through an aperture as water in the same apparatus ?It would surprise me, but I have been surprised before.Do you have a comment regarding my proposal ?