Questions, 1200 Sport 2V

[alanp]

I just bought one of these from an inmate (ccoli), great bike!  But I have a few questions:

1.  I would like to lower the footpegs, but there isn't much clearance with the side stand.  Anyone have any suggestions?  Pics would be great. 

2.  The forks are adjustable for compression and rebound damping, but I don't know about spring pre-load.  There is is a hex nut on the top of the forks with the damping screws in the center, but the manual makes no mention of preload adjustment.  Can I adjust preload by turning the hex nut at the top of the fork? (Note, there is also a screw off center in the hex nut.  I have never seen a fork top that looks like this, but the screw would seem to be "locking" the hex nut in place).?

3.  Warning, Partial oil thread!   
The manual calls for 2 different "transmission" gear oils, I have no idea which goes where, and both of them are pretty much impossible to find. They are both Agip Rotra...
MP/S 85w90 and MP 80w90
What is this MP and MP/S designation?  Synthetic, or non?
Does it matter?  What do you guys use?
And what goes where, or is there one gear oil that will work for both?

Thanks!

BTW, here are the pics, so it did happen.

[pete roper]

Any decent 75/90 full synth is fine in both gearbox and bevelbox.

[alanp]

Any decent 75/90 full synth is fine in both gearbox and bevelbox.

Thanks Pete!  I like that answer, makes it simple. 

[Kiwi Dave]

I use Redline Shockproof Heavy.  Specs are impressive.

[Joliet Jim]

Congrats on the new bike, I really wanted it but had no money or room in the garage

[pete roper]

Swing arm bearings and shock linkage. Check.

[ohiorider]

Nice!

Bob

[Utrider]

Beautiful bike Alan!  Congratulations, see you in September.

[ohiorider]

Alan, take a look at these footpegs from Twisted Throttle.  I bought a pair from Zoom Zoom several years ago, that I believe had the 23mm arms.  ZZ had filed a little bit off the bottom of the left peg, due to sidestand interference, however, he probably had them mounted straight down.  I mounted them down and flrward (4 oclock on the right side, 8 oclock on the left) and I don't think there would have been any interference with the stand.

I would not go with the 50mm arms.  They are way too long.  I think I had a similar setup on my Griso, with 30mm arms.

These are pricey.  I found a similar pair from the mother country (China) for my CB1100 that cost roughly $25.00.  Search and see what else you can find.  Remember, you need (a) a mount for each side, (b) arms for each side, and (c) pegs for each side.

https://www.twistedthrottle.com/mfw-vario-footpeg-mounts-for-for-moto-guzzi-griso-1200-06-17-norge-1200-06-16-passenger-black-or-silver?gloc=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyorosKC34wIVSJyzCh2H_QKrEAQYASABEgKR8fD_BwE

Bob

[Dean Rose]

Goldwing footpegs will work on that bike

[bad Chad]

Look here. Knightdesignllc.com

I ordered the European side stand from one of the after market sources, can’t recall who, I think it was Todd in California, it solves the interface problem.

[ohiorider]

Look here. Knightdesignllc.com

I ordered the European side stand from one of the after market sources, can’t recall who, I think it was Todd in California, it solves the interface problem.

Chad, how much more vertically does the Euro stand hold the bike?  The US abomination lets it practically lie down and go to sleep!

Bob

[willowstreetguzziguy]

I INSTALLED 1.5" LOWER FOOTPEGS ON MY 1200 SPORT AND HERE'S WHAT I DID...

No need to buy a Euro side stand.

1.) I modified my U.S. stand by taking a hacksaw, followed straight down the outside edge of the kickstand and cut off the protruding bottom tang that sticks way out. (see photos)
2.) I designed a large size footpad out of cardboard, temporary taped it to the bottom of the modified side stand and raised the stand to see if it clears the lowered foot peg and it did.
3.) With the modified side stand still on the bike, I took it and the new footpad to a welder. Following the design of my footpad, he created one out of steel and welded it onto the bottom of the kickstand.
4.) I rode home, sanded, primed and painted it. IT IS A STRONG SIDESTAND!!!

You can see from the photos that the side stand foot clears the lowered cooper.

The shifter lever needed to be lowered and that's no problem to do. I need to do some touch up and slight grinding on the side stand because the shifter slightly rubs the side stand.

BUT... The brake lever was now too high and could't be adjusted. So... I modified the brake lever (as seen in the photo)  another trip to the welder and now it's positioned









 lower.

NOTE: I also added 1" of foam under my seat foam so now I have 2.5" more leg room than before and it ALL FITS ME PERFECT.   

[bad Chad]

I can't really say how much more vertical it is, but to say it's noticeably more vertical, but still not as vertical as I feel it should be.  With the EU stand and a half inch plank of wood in the garage, its about perfect.

[Kiwi Dave]

I prefer the USA stand.  It is a bit larger, but does not sink into soft ground like the Euro one does.

I swapped with owners that wanted the Euro version, and now I even have a spare (USA version).

Note that the pivot plate differs as well as the stand itself.

[borderer]

Hi
Buell footpegs fit with a little fettling. They drop back about 1" and lower by about 2"
this with Renthal fatbars made the bike much more comfortable

[M0T0Geezer]

Alan,

Ah, what a beautiful bike!   I've always had a thing for black bikes.  Intoxicating! 

I still don't know for sure and I hope you can tell me:  Does the USA 1200 Sport (yours) have  2 or 4 valve heads?

Either way, what a find & what a treasure. 

Dan

[alanp]

Alan,

Ah, what a beautiful bike!   I've always had a thing for black bikes.  Intoxicating! 

I still don't know for sure and I hope you can tell me:  Does the USA 1200 Sport (yours) have  2 or 4 valve heads?

Either way, what a find & what a treasure. 

Dan

Dan,
Yes it is a beauty, and I always wanted one.  It is a Norge with better suspension and less fairing, 2V engine just like yours.  As far as I know it has the same drive train as a 2008 Norge, maybe somebody can tell us if that is not true?
They were only imported in 2008.  There was a later 4V version, but never imported to the US.     

[ohiorider]

Dan,
Yes it is a beauty, and I always wanted one.  It is a Norge with better suspension and less fairing, 2V engine just like yours.  As far as I know it has the same drive train as a 2008 Norge, maybe somebody can tell us if that is not true?
They were only imported in 2008.  There was a later 4V version, but never imported to the US.   

I think you're going to be the keeper of the 2 valve, 1200 Sport flame!  Good!  This bike deserves more respect than it gets.

I found mine to be a wonderful sport tourer, and am contemplating doing 'one more trip' out West later this summer.  Originally the plan was to ride my 1991 BMW R100GS, but I'm beginning to feel like I'd like to aim my 1200 Sport in that direction.  More about that later.

Keep us posted on your experiences with your new ride.  She is a beauty.

Bob

[alanp]

Thanks Bob.  If you are heading west and will be anywhere near Longmont, CO let me know.  You are welcome to stay overnight, or maybe have a companion for a few hundred miles of your route.

[alanp]

OK, here are a couple or other questions. There are 2 bolts on the valve cover that are under the plastic chrome flange located on each side of the tank.  To get to them, I would either need to lift the tank or remove the flange.  Questions are:

1.  Is this chrome flange piece removable?  Or do you lift the tank, or what, to remove the valve covers?  Just looking for the best/easiest way to get access to the upper 2 cover bolts.
2.  This may render question 1 moot.  The 2 bolts on each valve cover that are covered by the chrome flange are missing on my bike.  It does not seem there is any oil leaking however.  So are these bolts necessary?  What is their purpose?

[Kiwi Dave]

Taking the wings off the tank itself is a major, I wouldn't try it.

To get to the screws holding the plastic spark plug cover, just raise the tank a little.  You won't need to remove it completely, just enough to get access.

[pete roper]

The rocker covers are retained by eight bolts. The HT lead cover is retained by two dome head, 3mm hex Allen bolts on the upper side of the head and there is a plastic rocker cover protection 'Puck' for want of a better word retained by two 6mm screws on the outside of the rocker cover that the HT lead cover hooks under.

To adjust the tappets remove the 'Grille' at the front of the tank. This is attached by four 4mm Allen 'Button head' bolts, two either side, to the sponsons which I think are what you are referring to as the 'Flanges' and a single 8mm dome head nut in the centre at the bottom, don't loose its washer as you take it off.

Once the grille is out of the way you can remove the bolt from the back of the tank and lift it up far enough to stick a block of wood between the back of the tank and the frame. That will give you enough clearance to get to all the rocker cover bolts and HT lead cover and 'Puck' bolts.

After you've done the valves replace the rocker cover gaskets using the Valpolini type 'Metal' ones rather than the shitty original fibre ones. If you use the fibre ones they will get pushed out and leak. The Valpolini ones, available from MG Cycles and probably other places, last for many valve checks and won't push out or rip.

If you want to check/replace the air filter you need to lift the tank off. Disconnect the pump wiring and then the 'Quick Disconnect' along with the filler drain and vent hoses before getting a mate to help spread the sponsons as you lift the tank back and up. The sponsons will try and hook up on the mounting bobbins, that's why they need to be spread. Once off the air filter is easily accessible.

Pete

[BentGoose]

Alan, if you are looking at the 2 holes that are threaded they are not used, the 2 bolts for the valve cover are under the plastic spark plug wire cover, just lift the back of the tank a few inches then you can get to the bolts, I use a 2x4 block to hold the tank up, call me if you need more info.

[ohiorider]

Taking the wings off the tank itself is a major, I wouldn't try it.

To get to the screws holding the plastic spark plug cover, just raise the tank a little.  You won't need to remove it completely, just enough to get access.

Kiwi Dave is right.  I think to remove the wings, the tank has to be off the bike.  He's right about lifting the tank.  Here's some info i obtained back when (2010) 

April 20, 2010
Talked with Jason Speaker today.  Although he is doing the 600 mile checkout in early May, I asked him, for future reference, about accessing the inner plugs and valves.  Answer:  Don’t totally remove the fuel tank …. Simply remove the saddle, unbolt the rear fuel tank hold down bolt, and hold the tank up in the rear with a couple of empty quart oil bottles.  That provides enough access room to reach valves and (I think) the inner spark plugs.

07/17/19 Those plugs are a bitch! But they don't need replaced every time the outer plugs are replaced.
Note: I've always held my fuel tank up high enough to easily remove valve covers using a short piece of 1" X 3" lumber under the rear of the tank.

EDIT:  Just follow Pete's recommendations!