New 20 ounce tumblers available now! Forum donation credit with purchase. https://www.wildguzzi.com/Products/products.htm#Tumbler
Need thoughts on my 2011 Norge clutch. Have not opened the MC yet to check fluid level.
Thanks for the help and comments from all. No, I haven't checked or done anything yet as I was hoping to get some guidance here before diving in. Probably tomorrow as I have my annual "wellness visit with my doc this afternoon.. At least I now some information to start with.GliderJohn
Don't be embarrassed John, the first time I bled the hydraulic clutch on my 07 Norge was this spring. Didn't have any problems with the clutch and the fluid looked pretty good for being in there for 15 years.
Also, on the clutch lever the little rod that pushes the master cylinder in is adjustable. There is a small grub screw that locks it in position. You need a proper fitting allen wrench to loosen that set screw and you then can unscrew the plunger rod a little bit to lengthen it. Start with 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn. It purpose is to compensate for wear in the mechanical side of the clutch actuation and makes up for travel lost to wear. Similar to the old school cable end adjustments. If the fluid side of things is ok , it may be time to lengthen the plunger a tad.
Check that the top screws on the clutch reservoir holding the plate are not loose, you might be inhaling a bit of air into the reservoir, of course might check the fluid too while you're there! Bleeding is super easy if you attach a Speed Bleeder to the hose under the seat...3 or 4 pumps and you're done.
That would be inconsequential Paul. It’s only air that gets into the pressurised part of the system that contributes to lack of performance.
The poor Norge is due for a good going over this winter. Really need to get me a lift table. Getting too old to be sitting or laying on the floor. GliderJohn
Why would you need to bleed a sealed hydraulic system if it hasn’t been low on fluid or lines/fittings loosened allowing air to enter.
I don't have a Norge, but I imagine it's very similar to the Griso I have. Reading up on the hydraulic clutch, there's been much discussion that the fluid tends to go bad rather quickly compared to the brakes, and cause debris (heat issue from routing? idk). Sure enough when I bled my Griso clutch, the first 2-3 pumps of fluid had small bits of black material, it was nice to replace most of the old fluid with new. fwiw
Watching this thread with interest since I’m currently experiencing a similar issue with 2006 Breva 1100 including dirty fluid despite recent replacement, no air in pressurised line, no external leaks, no loss of fluid but clutch failing to disengage cleanly. Some good tips to follow up. Not wanting to thread steal so will butt out now …
Does anyone else have to clean corrosion off their under the seat bleeder? In the past I’ve cleaned the white to green crust off a couple times a year,.