Recent Posts

1

General Discussion / Re: Nevada 750 clutch job

« Last post by johnpaulcim on Today at 03:11:40 PM »

As Patrick Hayes said, doing a clutch job is much more involved than replacing the throw out bearing. If you decide to replace the clutch, there is a tutorial on This Old Tractor that walks through the process of getting to the clutch on a smallblock - the author was doing work on a 750 Breva's gearbox, but it is the same process to get to the Clutch. I found it an invaluable resource when working on the clutch on my 2013 V7. Don't know if this link will work, but here it is: https://www.google.com/url?client=internal-element-cse&cx=000333737378801057034:rqvmlkbisrg&q=https://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzitech.dk/pdf/gearbox-repair-breva-750-nick-webb.pdf&sa=U&ved=2ahUKEwj8jbSnkr2OAxW3EmIAHdo2BE4QFnoECAEQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2iazX8ACz7uUFrUMRx6jgs&fexp=72986053,72986052.

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General Discussion / Re: New bike..tomorrow! V7 Sport 850

« Last post by Frulk on Today at 03:08:01 PM »

I find it hard to believe that the reviewer in the video said the V7 850 would ‘ spank’ his Griso’.

3

General Discussion / Re: Nevada 750 clutch job

« Last post by pehayes on Today at 03:07:45 PM »

Two massively different jobs.  The bearing is a fairly simple pull of the swingarm.  Not sure of your year model but there is a bit of trick language about a spacer washer when reinstalling the pivot pins.  Hopefully your bearing has not fully disassembled because if so, the whirling bits can quickly destroy the bore hole of the transmission rear cover.

If  you want the full clutch, you have to separate the transmission from the engine.  Stand back and look at the bike.  You will have to disconnect or dismantle almost everything which is NOT 'transmission'.

Keep us posted.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

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General Discussion / Re: V9 Project

« Last post by Groover on Today at 02:58:29 PM »

Looks great, well done!

5

General Discussion / Re: Acid Based Aluminum Cleaners

« Last post by FrankenGuzzi on Today at 02:56:03 PM »

Looks like Eagle One Etching Mag Wheel cleaner is basically phosphoric acid with a splash of sulfuric. Milk stone remover is phosphoric acid so you might have similar results with it. And probably a lot cheaper.

Power Team Acid Rinse contains phosphoric and sulfuric: https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/dairyland-power-team-acid-rinse-1201150

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General Discussion / The Yamaha that refuse to act nice

« Last post by faffi on Today at 02:36:56 PM »

I once started with a 1982 Virago 750, added a 1990 Virago 1100, mated the two so that I now have a first generation bike with a second generation engine. With a Seca 18in rear wheel replacing the stock 16in.

At first, I placed no emphasis on the finish, the electrical wiring being a mix of the stock 1982 items and very corroded wiring from the 1990 version, just barely holding together. It stayed like this from 2016 until the end of 2022, and both I and our son rode it without issues apart from a burned out rectifier and lack of oil to the top end due to my stupidity. Both things were quickly and cheaply fixed.

Then I made the mistake of deciding to give it a full makeover, something the bike has resisted in every possible way. Everything that could go wrong, went wrong. Everything that could take much longer than it should, did. But eventually, after 6 long months filled with 100s of hours of frustrations, long swearing tirades and spending more money than the bike is worth, it was finally done. I thought. The carburetors did not agree. I need some O-rings that does not list in the parts fiche, and that are of non-standard dimensions. So after several failed attempts to make not-quite-right O-rings work, I opted to buy a single carb kit from MikuniOz.

In the meantime, I bought the V9 Roamer in June 2023, just to have a bike to ride. And finally I have managed to fit the Mikuni TM38 and manifold to the Yamaha, inlcuding drilling a holde in on intake and fit a pipe so that I have vacuum to operate the ignition module and fuel taps.

With all in place, I went to fit the fuel tank and attempt startup. Only to discover that there is no way the tank will fit with the carb in place

So now I have two options; find someone willing to make me 4 O-rings of the correct sizes for the stock carbs, or have someone modify the fuel tank so that it will fit around the tank. I will try the O-ring route first. But I do feel the bike is trying to tell me something, and it is not "let us be friends"

7

General Discussion / Re: Norge Charging at 13.0 Volts - seems low

« Last post by SemperVee on Today at 02:25:56 PM »

I spent the morning checking the belt on the generator thinking that might be an issue for my Norge and it was a little loose, but made no difference on the charging when tightened up.  Double checked the 40amp fuse block for the generator, sprayed it down with DeOxit and switched to another fuse, then it went from 13.5 to 13.6-7 when the engine is revved up but settles to 13.5 at idle. My next hunt is for the #6 light relay but have no idea where that is located. I'm hoping that some dirty relay contacts will solve this problem but first I need to find the relay. Also cleaned up the positive harness contact to the battery but haven't checked the ground strap which might be a problem now that I think about it. The dashboard reading of the battery is way off but I remember a time when it was spot on, now it reads 12.5-6 when the meter directly attached to the battery reads 13.5.

I get the exact same reading on my Norge as you do with the handheld expensive volt meter versus what the dash says.

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General Discussion / Re: Norge Charging at 13.0 Volts - seems low

« Last post by SemperVee on Today at 02:23:10 PM »

Thanks Mike!  Very happy indeed with the results.  A naked Norge is a Breva basically.  Seeing the engine lump is kind of cool though.

I know that having the fairings off makes it easier access for a lot of items.  I do like the functionality also of the fairings for wind management which is superb on the Norge.  I am contending with a slightly broken tab on a lower part of the fairing that I need to get plastic bonded.  Once all of that is sorted, I'm going to paint all of the fairings a new color...time for an update after all of the years.

I removed the lower fairing because I think it looks better and allows my legs to feel cooler. I really appreciate the upper fairing and windshield the most. What color are you considering for the paint job?

9

General Discussion / Re: Norge Charging at 13.0 Volts - seems low

« Last post by blackcat on Today at 02:17:27 PM »

I spent the morning checking the belt on the generator thinking that might be an issue for my Norge and it was a little loose, but made no difference on the charging when tightened up.  Double checked the 40amp fuse block for the generator, sprayed it down with DeOxit and switched to another fuse, then it went from 13.5 to 13.6-7 when the engine is revved up but settles to 13.5 at idle. My next hunt is for the #6 light relay but have no idea where that is located. I'm hoping that some dirty relay contacts will solve this problem but first I need to find the relay. Also cleaned up the positive harness contact to the battery but haven't checked the ground strap which might be a problem now that I think about it. The dashboard reading of the battery is way off but I remember a time when it was spot on, now it reads 12.5-6 when the meter directly attached to the battery reads 13.5.

10

General Discussion / Re: V9 Project

« Last post by faffi on Today at 02:14:07 PM »

Sounds frustrating, Dirk. I wonder why a small company like Moto Guzzi, with such small production volumes, goes to the trouble of making different final drives. Unless a version proved problematic, of course. For owners, the lack of/reduced compatibility is a negative.