Motogadget M-Unit Diagram and Install - Tonti

[1down5up]

Hi All.

As an attempt to contribute something new/different to the forum (I’m an avid reader, but more of a lurker when it comes to posting) I thought I’d share my experience and wiring diagrams for wiring a Motogadget M-Unit along with a few photos of the install as it progresses.

I am part way through my 2nd ground up rebuild of a Tonti Guzzi, currently working on a 850 LeMans Mk2 which had the wiring harness butchered in multiple locations, and even a fire on it at some stage (Regulator or coils I think) - Needless to say it needed a complete new harness. New harnesses are available and of excellent quality from Greg Bender, but I thought I’d see if I can bring the Guzzi into 2020.

A few words on the M-Unit.
This is truly a little box of magic. It has the potential to remove all fuses and relays from your bike, along with a much more sensible concept of running power (i.e. not running all your headlight current through your switchgear, or have multiple connection points etc for your starting system – startus interruptus anyone?) – and if combined with a RR45 Reg/Rec removes a good chunk of electrical gadgetry from the bike.

The m-unit works on a concept of “inputs” and “outputs”, where an aspect your wiring system is triggered by the input going to ground, thus triggering the output power. i.e. A Push your horn/starter/indicator button will “ground” the input of the relevant circuit on the m-Unit (left hand side of my diagram), and when grounded the output will switch on and provide power direct to the horn/starter/indicator via a monitored and protected circuit (thereby removing the fuse for your circuit and the relay (horn, starter ect)).

The m-unit also has a suite of “enhancements” such as an Alarm (with adjustable sensitivity), Single Wire Brake Light, keyless start and a myriad of settings such as auto blinker off, initial pulsing brake light, speed/distance sensor for tracking service intervals – some people love this stuff, some hate it as it “complicates” a simple and rugged motorcycle in there eyes – either way its just settings and the wiring is much simpler

I opted for the “M-Unit Blue” which has Bluetooth enabled, this allows much easier set-up and changing of settings, and activates a few extra features from the basic (keyless start I think)

If you are contemplating a full re-wire of your bike I would highly recommend the m-Unit – (at the moment anyway, check back in later or feel free to ask me for a longer term review on the usability, faults/foibles etc)

Below is my wiring diagram, I have just commenced the install, and will attempt to provide some updates along the way – feel free to critique 

Happy to answer any questions or test any functions for anyone that was thinking of purchasing


I'm using a RR45 Reg/Rec and new switchgear (K&S 12-0041) - and have opted to fuse the power to the M-unit (primarly incase of a reg/rec meltdown - the m-unit doesnt really need it apparently as should be able to handle just about any fault but nice to be on the safe side) - build will likely be a bit slow.

[dxhall]

Can you provide more info about the switchgear?  From whom did you buy it?

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Funny, I just removed an M-Unit from a G5 and am reverting back to the original type wiring (harnesses by Greg Bender).

[1down5up]

Switch-gear is K&S 12-0041 - http://www.kandstech.com/pimages/12-0041.html  -- greg bender has a bit on thisoldtractor.com on them http://www.thisoldtractor.com/for_sale_wiring_harness_loop_KS12-0041.html



You can get them from MG cycle, Dime City and many other online retailers in the states. I got mine from WeMoto.com.au - they are just down the road from me and were the best price.

You can program the headlight & taillight to come on with the ignition. My build wont have an Ignition light so it will be a good way to ensure I don't leave anything on.

One thing I had to get my head around is that you actually "reverse wire" the switch, the inputs become the grounds (as they are often sharing functions between them (i.e. indicator power input), and the ground/outputs are your signal in.

If you wanted to you can wire it up with switch that turns the headlight from off-park-on (like the standard switch-gear), just need to add a relay.

[Old Jock]

Nice install thanks

I've got one on my LM1000 bike the M-Unit I have  is one of the first models and it's been great. My install though is nowhere as neat. I went to all pushbutton switchgear using a mixture of an M-Button and ISR swtiches on the lever retaining clamps.

The bottom picture was after I'd dropped the damm thing (long story) and the oil pressure gauge is now relocated but it gives an idea of the setup

[Rick4003]

I also have the earlier M-unit (v.2)
Mine works well, but I must say I dislike the push button control for indicators. Will have to change this this spring.

Where did you source your 40amp fuse and fuse holder? I have been trying to find a compact one for quite some time now.

[Lumpy Idle]

i have an m-unit v.2 sitting in a box somewhere. the idea was that i would install in my t-3. i haven't gotten around to it. maybe your post will inspire me to dust it off and install it before spring.
thanks for the post. your circuit map is really well done!

[Rusnak_322]

Being a cheap bastard, I can't fathom why someone would spend $320 - $500 on these when I was able to make a wiring harness for my bike for under $30 and i know jack-shat about electrical stuff.

None of the features are just that exciting that I got to have it. 

[jrt]

Being a cheap bastard, I can't fathom why someone would spend $320 - $500 on these when I was able to make a wiring harness for my bike for under $30 and i know jack-shat about electrical stuff.

None of the features are just that exciting that I got to have it.

I just got one for Christmas.  It is interesting, and if done correctly, makes for a cleaner wiring harness. 

[1down5up]

I also have the earlier M-unit (v.2)
Mine works well, but I must say I dislike the push button control for indicators. Will have to change this this spring.

Where did you source your 40amp fuse and fuse holder? I have been trying to find a compact one for quite some time now.

Yes I have never liked the push button indicators, with the current unit you can adjust the settings to have indicators either act as push buttons (i.e. single press on, single press off momentry contact style) or switch (constant on as per original)

I got the fuse from Jaycar - an Australian electronics shop.  https://www.jaycar.com.au/screw-terminal-30a-blade-fuse-holder/p/SZ2044



I was also looking at a MIDI Fuse but couldn't find a suitably small holder locally - I may change it to one of these.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Being a cheap bastard, I can't fathom why someone would spend $320 - $500 on these...

None of the features are just that exciting that I got to have it.

 

[geodoc]

Funny, I just removed an M-Unit from a G5 and am reverting back to the original type wiring (harnesses by Greg Bender).

Why, out of curiosity?



.

[OldMojo]

So it's basically a PLC for your bike. Pretty cool. Definitely something to consider were someone wanting to get a basket case up and running without putting up with a dodgy harness or extortionate re-pops.

[caridimondo]

Any updates on the install? I have a LM2 as well so I'm curious to see how it all went. I was considering the M-Unit but part of me just wants to keep the bike relatively stock and maybe try the modern electrics on a separate project bike. Either way, thanks for the detailed diagram, it will be super useful if I ever go that route!

[Scout63]

Great thread and thanks for the diagram. I have a blue unit, wiring package and Chronoclassic tach waiting in the garage for install I my G5.  I can’t wait to play with them. These notes will really help.

[1down5up]

Any updates on the install? I have a LM2 as well so I'm curious to see how it all went. I was considering the M-Unit but part of me just wants to keep the bike relatively stock and maybe try the modern electrics on a separate project bike. Either way, thanks for the detailed diagram, it will be super useful if I ever go that route!

Hi, No worries at all.

Nope, the M-Unit has been flawless, there was a small period where it would not re-pair with my mobile for the keyless start feature (will still start with the key) - but I checked for a firmware update via the mobile app and that sorted it out.

Only issue I had was me cutting one of the blinker wires to short so when i turned the handlebars to far left it would unhook the blinker

[motospotter]

Nice post,  I installed the M unit Blue on my V7 Sport. It came to me without a harness and no switches so I decided to update. It is so programmable and so easy to do on the phone. I was able to use all of the original switch covers too.







The red button is ther starter.

[jrt]

Nice post,  I installed the M unit Blue on my V7 Sport. It came to me without a harness and no switches so I decided to update. It is so programmable and so easy to do on the phone. I was able to use all of the original switch covers too.

The red button is ther starter.

Did you drill out standard CEV pill boxes and install the buttons?  Pretty cool looking!

[motospotter]

Did you drill out standard CEV pill boxes and install the buttons?  Pretty cool looking!

It was tight but no drilling of the oem parts. I used aluminum flat bar inside the pillbox and it worked out nicely. The buttons are close but it was important to maintain the original look to me. If I did it again I would drill them out but for now they will work fine.