Question on installing engine guards on v7iii

[Rhodan]

To install the givi engine guards, it looks like I need to remove the bolts that link the upper and lower part of the frame.  Besides only doing one side at a time, anything else to consider?

Never installed engine guards before.  Looks straightforward but removing the frame bolts did give me pause. 

The shop said it doesn't need locktite and there's no torque spec.

[F-22]

Well, some blue loctite wouldn't hurt anything... It's a fairly large diameter screw for a narrow flange, so it could potentially loosen. The general recommendation/ standard for self-locking screw design is that the flange diameter is ~5x as tick as the screw diameter, which isn't true in this case (but e.g. very true for cylinder head studs).

[kingoffleece]

Locktight it

[Rhodan]

Thanks to you both.  Blue loctite it is.

[twowheeladdict]

I put a floor jack under the engine with just enough pressure to keep it from moving when I installed the MG engine guard.

[Rhodan]

Not a bad idea.  I don't think I have my hydraulic floor jack any more but even a scissor jack with a hefty and wide piece of wood would work. 

Out of curiosity:  have you seen them/heard about them moving or simply a precaution?

Were the bolts reasonably easy to remove or a pain in the patoot?
I did get a set of hex bits for my 3/8" ratchet.  Thought that would be better than trying to wrestle a regular hex key.  Even if it wasn't necessary, it was still a good excuse.   

[Kev m]

I've done this both times I've installed sliders on our V7s.

The first time I used a jack to support it and worked on one side at a time.

Just last week I did it on the V7D and was able (because of the slider design) only remove one bolt at a time so I didn't even use a jack. I imagine you could remove a bolt and temporarily put a small pin or stud through the frame holes to keep them from possibly moving.

Yes a hex bit (instead of a hex wrench) is handy.

The nuts on the back seem to be captured from turning by the frame, but I still put a backup wrench on them when tightening just to be sure.

[twowheeladdict]

Not a bad idea.  I don't think I have my hydraulic floor jack any more but even a scissor jack with a hefty and wide piece of wood would work. 

Out of curiosity:  have you seen them/heard about them moving or simply a precaution?

Were the bolts reasonably easy to remove or a pain in the patoot?
I did get a set of hex bits for my 3/8" ratchet.  Thought that would be better than trying to wrestle a regular hex key.  Even if it wasn't necessary, it was still a good excuse.   

There is always a risk of moving. 

On many of my bikes the aftermarket engine guards would use engine mounts and some guys would get themselves into trouble.  Better safe than sorry. 

Of course, like Kev said, still do one side at a time.

[kingoffleece]

I did one side at a time on my 2105 V7.  No issues-did not even need a jack.

[Muzz]

I ground up a short podger to line the first hole up and put the bolts semi snugly in. then use the jack/engine hoist/levers to line up the second.

[twowheeladdict]

I did one side at a time on my 2105 V7.  No issues-did not even need a jack.

Better to have it there and not need it, than to find out you needed it and didn't have it there.   

[JRD]

Kev, which engine guards do you use?

[Kev m]

Kev, which engine guards do you use?

I used sliders on both my V7s. Over Racing for the Stone and Sato Racing for the Dark.

[JRD]

Looking good, I’ll check them out.

[twowheeladdict]

Looking good, I’ll check them out.

I find extra lighting important, which is why I installed the Guzzi engine guards. 

[Rhodan]

Nice ride!

[Rhodan]

Engine guards are finally installed.  Very anticlimactic.
I did end up using a jack as insurance but now that I've done it once, I think it would have been fine without.
Blue Loctite was used.
I did one side at a time.
The Guzzi and the Givi bolts/nuts were different sizes.  Not a problem, just a note.
The hex bits were REALLY handy but they hadn't torqued the heck out of the bolts so they weren't hard to get off.
I like 'em!




upload images

[twowheeladdict]

Engine guards are finally installed.  Very anticlimactic.
I did end up using a jack as insurance but now that I've done it once, I think it would have been fine without.
Blue Loctite was used.
I did one side at a time.
The Guzzi and the Givi bolts/nuts were different sizes.  Not a problem, just a note.
The hex bits were REALLY handy but they hadn't torqued the heck out of the bolts so they weren't hard to get off.
I like 'em!




upload images

Congrats.  Different sizes?  Or different lengths?

[Rhodan]

Different sizes meaning I needed a different hex bit for the bolt head and wrench for the nut.  I think the length was the same or near to it.

I also wanted to say:  Thank You to everyone who had suggestions and shared their experience.

[egschade]

1) I like your color choice
2) The engine guards are a good place to mount driving lights

[Rhodan]

1) I like your color choice

 

I'm trying to save all my spare watts for heated gear.  Just got this in the mail
https://www.aerostich.com/aerostich-electric-warmbib.html


How much do lights like that pull?  I like the placement; it must really light up the road.

[twowheeladdict]

I'm trying to save all my spare watts for heated gear.  Just got this in the mail
https://www.aerostich.com/aerostich-electric-warmbib.html


How much do lights like that pull?  I like the placement; it must really light up the road.

My lights are LED and don't pull much.  Of course you can shut them off when using your heat.  Mine are for conspicuity during the daytime.  Need all the help we can get making sure drivers see us. 

[JRD]

Installed the Givi TN8202 engine guards on my V7III tonight. It went well overall, took about an hour. Center stand made it easy, also used a scissors jack to support the engine.

Struggled with one set of frame holes that weren’t properly aligned but the Givi bolt finally went through without stripping its threads. Used blue loctite for insurance.

The Guzzi service manual specifies torquing the frame bolts to 50 nm/~37 ft lbs but the 6mm socket walls in the Givi bolt heads started to strip at about 40 nm. They seem plenty tight though.

Well, that’s about it. I like the way they look (for engine guards) and hope they stay as clean and unscratched as they are tonight.

[Bobic69]

I used sliders on both my V7s. Over Racing for the Stone and Sato Racing for the Dark.

Shame Sato don't make the sliders in black (or red for the Racer). They stand out like dog's balls in the natural aluminium.

[Kev m]

Shame Sato don't make the sliders in black (or red for the Racer). They stand out like dog's balls in the natural aluminium.

Probably be easy enough to powdercoat if that's an issue.

Funny I've often powdercoated parts black in the past including a few sets of HB side and top case carrier racks before they started offering them in g black too, but it never occurred to me to want to do so with the Sato slider mounts. Maybe that's because there's already so much black on the IIID that a little bright work doesn't bother me.

Hmmm come to think of it, get they would look good in matching red....

[kingoffleece]

Hamlin Cycles has access to a fantastic machine shop.  The guy who runs it is a pure artist.  On my SATO someone at design didn't rally think it thru.  The guards did not protrude quite enough to be as effective as they could have been.  Last visit to jim's shop we removed one, called the guy, and an hour later he returned with two PERFECT extended mounting spacers, all tapped and supplied with correct bolts, to reinstall the SATO on the bike.  All edges were slightly rounded off and mounting holes were countersunk perfect.  An absolute joy to behold if you can appreciate the skill of a good machine shop.

He's the same guy who made custom mounts for the fork visibility lights on my Norge.  Pure machine art made out of top notch materials.

[Bulldog9]

Hamlin Cycles has access to a fantastic machine shop.  The guy who runs it is a pure artist.  On my SATO someone at design didn't rally think it thru.  The guards did not protrude quite enough to be as effective as they could have been.  Last visit to jim's shop we removed one, called the guy, and an hour later he returned with two PERFECT extended mounting spacers, all tapped and supplied with correct bolts, to reinstall the SATO on the bike.  All edges were slightly rounded off and mounting holes were countersunk perfect.  An absolute joy to behold if you can appreciate the skill of a good machine shop.

He's the same guy who made custom mounts for the fork visibility lights on my Norge.  Pure machine art made out of top notch materials.

Hmmmm, I wonder if this guy to machine shop would be able to fabricate handlebar risers for the MDX? Several people have mentioned they would like one to two inches of lift and reach. I'll have to reach out to Hamlin.

[Kev m]

Hamlin Cycles has access to a fantastic machine shop.  The guy who runs it is a pure artist.  On my SATO someone at design didn't rally think it thru.  The guards did not protrude quite enough to be as effective as they could have been. 

What year is your V7?

I bought the Over Racing sliders for my 13 V7 Stone (well, my wife did as a xmass present), but when they arrived they were too short to protect well. At that time I realized the problem, the 1TB models (with larger/fatter jugs) had just come out and the sliders were designed for the thinner jugged 2TB models. In that case it was a "relatively" easy case of having 1" round adapters machined out of aluminum and using longer bolts.

Ironically Over Racing stopped making them anyway, so I had to turn to Sato this time. But I think Sato realized it because they had different part numbers for the Mk I/Mk II models and the Mk III models.

[kingoffleece]

2015 V7.

[kingoffleece]

Jim's on his way to the NC rally.
Best to send him an email.  I know he just sold his last Flying Fort-hopefully the guy is local.  I don't know how one could fabricate without the bike.  On the other hand, it would make a GREAT road trip for you.  You'll love the shop.