GuzziDiag HowTo - A tutorial for beginners

[k99]

The only time you ever re-set the TPS on a single TB model is after it has been re-mapped and even then on the newer V7-II's they don't recommend it after 3,000km due to wear in the shitty plastic cam wheel.

I did just have it remapped and it only has 4 miles on it. Should I or should I not reset the TPS?

[Vasco DG]

Who re-mapped it? They should of recalibrate do it afterwards.

Pete

[k99]

Who re-mapped it? They should of recalibrate do it afterwards.

I shipped the throttlebody/ECU out to Todd at GuzziTech.  Just got it back today and reinstalled it.  This is what I am seeing on the measurements view if that helps.



-Keith

[Vasco DG]

No idea I'm afraid. I haven't used Guzzidiag for a MUIG3 yet as we can't write or upload maps yet. Didn't you get any instructions from the vendor?

Pete

[k99]

Ok, a quick update that will hopefully help anyone else in the same situation.  If you have a MUIG3 ECU on a V7 and are using the current version of GuzziDiag (as of this post V0.47) there is no TPS Reset option so here is what you do:

1) In the top menu, go to View -> Actors
2) In any of the drop down menus select "Reset outlearning parameters", then click start
3) In any of the drop down menus select "Throttle self-learning", then click start.
3) In the top menu, go back to View -> Measurements
4) In any of the drop down menus select "Throttle", if you are around 0.9 or 1.0 degrees you should be good to go

This info is for the single throttle body V7 with the MUIG3 ECU.  Not sure if it is the same for the V7II.

For anyone that added an aftermarket exhaust you really should be updating your fuel mapping.  I added the GuzziTech mapping myself and highly recommend it, but to each their own.  So what ever works for you, go for it.  You'll be amazed at the difference. 

[Revan]

Hello everyone.

New member, here.

I have been following this thread for a little bit, and I have a few questions about the GuziDiag......actua lly, it's more of a problem.

Let me give you all a little background information, first.

I just picked up a 2009 Norge GT. The bike is stock, with under 6k miles on it.

Since I have had it, I have noticed that the bike is really hard to start when cold, it has massive popping on decel, jerky throttle response with some lower end lags, and runs really hot.

I have been thinking about sending my ECU out to be reflashed, but I wanted to get the GuzziDiag software up and running as well.....just so I can do the TPS reset and CO adjustments if I need to on my own.

So, I got all of the hardware and software that is needed for this, but I can't seem to get it connected to my bike. Everything looks alright......the hardware is correct. I cracked open the plug case and checked the chipset to make sure, and the software drivers are installed and show up correctly when looking at the device manager.

But, when I try to hook everything up to the ECU plug....nothing happens. The red light doesn't even come on. Now, there are 2 plugs on the Norge under the seat. There is the one with the 2 wires that is located in the rear of the bike under the passenger seat next to the spare fuses (which from what I have read should be the correct ECU plug). Then, there is the plug with 3 wires in it, which is hanging next to the battery......and that should be the one that checks the ABS system (at least from what I have read as well).

Now here is the weird part. When I plug the hardware into the 3-wired one, the red light on the ecu plug comes on and my software recognizes that something is happening even though it can not read any of the information that it is looking at.

Now, when I plug the module into the 2-wired connector.....nothi ng happens.....I get no connection at all. The red light on the ECU plug does not come on and the software just times out and/or tells me that my ignition is not on.

So, my question is.........Am I using the wrong plugs and/or software or something....? Is there another location for the ECU connection that I am missing? Or, is there something wrong with the hardware on the bike?

I'm kind of at a loss here......any advice would be appreciated.......I just want to get my bike running smooth and avoid any problems caused by a lean-running engine.

Thank you all very much.

Revan.

[Vasco DG]

Apart from the problem with connecting the diagnostic software are you sure the machine is tuned correctly? Also is this a 4V or an 8V model?

[Xlratr]

Are you connecting your cable to a 12v supply?
John

[beetle]

What John said.

The 3 pin to 16 pin adapter should have an alligator clip lead with a red shroud to attach to the battery positive. Even when you are not connected, the LED on the adapter should come one when you attach the +12V.

[Revan]

Hi, guys.

Thanks for the responses.

It is a 4v model, and I am not sure about the tune.......everythi ng appears to be stock (I'm pretty sure the previous owner never even took it in for any servicing at all).




OHHH....so the light IS supposed to come on, even when the 3-pin is not hooked up to anything!!!???

Ok....so then I DO have a hardware problem......Becaus e when I connect it to a power supply, nothing happens....the red light on the FTDI connector does not come on at all unless I plug the 3-pin connector into something.

Well....time to order a new 3 to 16 pin connector :/


Thank you very much for the information!!!

I'll get a new one and post what happens.


Also, one other question that is sort-of related.

I am looking at getting rid of the stock can and swapping it out with a GPR race can. I like the size of them, and have found that they are reasonably priced (I don't want to spend an arm-and-a-leg for a basic slip-on exhaust)....BUT..... I have been reading some controversy about the lack of back-pressure in some of the free-flowing race cans, and how the bike runs terribly with no back-pressure, etc...etc...

What is the story on that? Is there any truth to it? Could I fab an insert that increases the back pressure if it is a problem? Can the bike be tuned to compensate for it?

Your thoughts....??

Thank you, all.


Revan.

[pauldaytona]

Your bike has two diagnostic 3 pin  connectors, the one where two wires are going in is the one you need, not the 3 wire connectors.

All only if you have an ABS model, but most are. The non ABS has only a two wire connetor with 3 pins.



 

[canuguzzi]

Revan, you're wasting your time with guzzidiag until you get the bike properly tuned. Get it as good as it gets before changing stuff. All you'll end up doing is double work.

[pauldaytona]

Revan, you're wasting your time with guzzidiag until you get the bike properly tuned. Get it as good as it gets before changing stuff. All you'll end up doing is double work.

I see that different. Only afterwards when you know what was wrong you can conclude that. I know of a lot of things that have been solved with using Guzzidiag.

[beetle]

I agree with Paul. GuzziDiag is a tool to be used to help diagnose issues and assist with tuning.

[Vasco DG]

To tune it properly you need to be able to recalibrate the TPS. This requires a tool, Guzzidiag is by far the best tool for performing re-set functions on the W5AM. Why? Because it works, every time. The only time I bother with PADS nowadays is for machines that Guzzidiag doesn't work on yet. And all it costs is a couple of cables off the Bay Of Fleas or Amazon and, if you are a decent human being, a donation to the authors.

Unless the bike is tuned properly though you might as well sprinkle fairy-dust n it and chant at it. It'll still run like a three legged rhino with a spear up its blurter.

Pete

[canuguzzi]

Prior to all that, going through the bike because as the poster said, it probably hasn't ever been serviced, take care of the basics which guzzidian isn't going to take care of nor give you indications.

Things like filters all around, oils, checking cables, fasteners, wiring, change the spark plugs, make sure the gas is fresh, adjust all the controls, tire pressures, physical check of the suspension, and those things. After that, sure, dive in with Guzzidiag but without all those other items properly checked and checked off, it will still run like a worn out go cart egardless of how much fiddling is done with Guzzidiag.

In other words, eliminate all those variables, then take it for a ride and get a baseline of how it feels, sounds and performs without trashing it. Nice and easy. Then go after engine specifics and related and the owner will be able to tell the difference between the as good as it was to as good as it can be. Guzzidiag isn't going to change the plugs or filters and I have yet to see or hear of anyone tuning and engine well without good oils and good plugs, making sure the wiring for coils and such is good.

That was the point as a motorcycle is tuned as a complete thing, a well running engine doesn't mean a thing if it wallows down the the road, vibrates because the fasteners are loose and the spark plugs are feeble., the controls are sloppy and the owner has yet to RTM, evidenced by the question itself.

I guess though, going about it from the other end might work FAIK.

[ITSec]

Hi, guys.

Thanks for the responses.

OHHH....so the light IS supposed to come on, even when the 3-pin is not hooked up to anything!!!???

Ok....so then I DO have a hardware problem......Becaus e when I connect it to a power supply, nothing happens....the red light on the FTDI connector does not come on at all unless I plug the 3-pin connector into something.

Well....time to order a new 3 to 16 pin connector :/

Revan.

Not so fast - let's make sure we are being clear!

The adapter (3 to 16) cable should have AT LEAST one cable coming out with a clip on the end. Most have two - a positive and a negative. The adapter will get POSITIVE power through the clip cable (to your battery positive terminal) and will access ground through the wiring of the 3-pin plug on the bike AND the alligator clip wire if it is present. IF you clip the wire to the positive terminal and DO NOT plug the 3-wire connector to anything on the bike, there is no ground (unless you also have and use the negative alligator clip).

In other words, the red light on your cable's connector head needs both positive and negative connections to operate - and they must come through that 3-16 adapter cable's connections to the bike.

[Revan]

Not so fast - let's make sure we are being clear!

The adapter (3 to 16) cable should have AT LEAST one cable coming out with a clip on the end. Most have two - a positive and a negative. The adapter will get POSITIVE power through the clip cable (to your battery positive terminal) and will access ground through the wiring of the 3-pin plug on the bike AND the alligator clip wire if it is present. IF you clip the wire to the positive terminal and DO NOT plug the 3-wire connector to anything on the bike, there is no ground (unless you also have and use the negative alligator clip).

In other words, the red light on your cable's connector head needs both positive and negative connections to operate - and they must come through that 3-16 adapter cable's connections to the bike.

Yeah......my 3-16 pin is the one with both leads (positive and negative).

So, here was my process....I plugged the FTDI connector to my laptop---->attached it to the 3-16 pin connector---> connected the negative and positive leads of the 3-16 connector to the battery.
So, if I understand correctly, at this point (before I plug the 3 pin plug into the bike), the FTDI connectors red light should come on because the 2 leads are feeding the FTDI connector power??
 
Because, if it is.....it's not......Nothing happens. When I connected the 2 power leads to my battery, the LED did not come on, Then, when I plugged the 3 pin connector into the bike, the light still doesn't come on. Even when I turn on the ignition......still nothing happens.

The only time that the light FAINTLY came on was when I connected it to the 3-pin port for the bikes ABS diagnostics (which seemed to feed the FTDI some power).

The FTDI connector does work, the light will come on when I plug it into something that has a powered circuit to it  (like when I plugged it into my cars 16 pin diagnostic port).....so now the only thing that I can think of, is that it must be that the power leads on the 3-16 pin connector are not correctly feeding the FTDI unit power at all........unless I'm missing something else.

Revan.

[Xlratr]

That's right. The diagnostic port doses not have a12v supply, that's why you have the crocodile (or alligator? :-)) clips to connect to your battery. If the red light doesn't come on, it sounds like your adapter is defective.
John

[ITSec]

Yeah......my 3-16 pin is the one with both leads (positive and negative).

The FTDI connector does work, the light will come on when I plug it into something that has a powered circuit to it  (like when I plugged it into my cars 16 pin diagnostic port).....so now the only thing that I can think of, is that it must be that the power leads on the 3-16 pin connector are not correctly feeding the FTDI unit power at all........unless I'm missing something else.

Revan.

That sounds correct. It has been noted that these 3-16 adapters are sometimes not wired correctly, and sometimes are poorly constructed. You can test the adapter you have with a multimeter set for continuity testing. The positive alligator clip should provide a connection to pin 16 of the 16 pin connector (lower right, narrow part of shell at bottom), and the negative alligator clip should go to the middle pin on the 3 pin side, and the #4 (and sometimes 5) pin on the 16 pin side (left of middle top, narrow part of shell at bottom).

Otherwise, your adapter is in fact faulty.

[rboe]

I had a working system using my Mac Book Pro. A buddy gave me his cable set because he could not get them to work, using his Windows Laptop on he EV. So I hooked up the Mac, his cables, my Griso - no joy. Hooked up my cables - no joy.

Setup my Windows 10 laptop; installed GuzziDiag, Reader and Writer; tried with that beast. No joy.

Did some reading up and it looks like 10.9, 10.10 use Apple supplied drivers so went with them, no joy.

Went to FTDI and got their drivers, installed, removed, installed; no joy.

Opened up my cable adaptor and the chip is unlabeled (but OS X's System preferences shows a FTDI chipset with serial number, same info, different serial number as my buddies cable set - and his does have an FTDI labeled chip).

My setup WAS working about two weeks ago as I was looking at documenting this process. But right now, when I choose a com port that field is blank. On the Windows laptop I get a com 4, which matches the Device Driver in Windows. On the Mac I used to get a path to a virtual port in the com field. No more. 

I'm flumuxed. Need some hints.

[pauldaytona]

The cheap ftdi  connectors can break, they have used simple parts with no spike protection. So even if they have been working, they can end doing that. Not an ftdi fault, but the components used around it.

For osx, you didn't update in between, since I read there is a new version out?

This is how it looks in devicemanager in windows 10. When usb is't connected you can see the config if you choose "show hidden devices"

[rboe]

Mine differs from yours in:

Driver Date: 7/1/2015
Driver Version: 2.12.6.0

(com port 5, but that is of no consequence)

Just upgraded to the latest OS X this morning, El Capitan. Was not even on my radar and said to myself "why the hell not!". Have not tried the adaptor since - other issues have cropped up.

Hardware failure. Something I had not considered (and should have). Bugger! Well, may have to consider ordering a new one. Is there a "better" one you can recommend?

[rboe]

By the way, this is the cable I have (and the one my buddy bought):
http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Triumph-Motorcycle-TuneECU-Program/dp/B003ZKKMLE/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1443743599&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=ODB+2+adaptor+FTDI

[ITSec]

Hardware failure. Something I had not considered (and should have). Bugger! Well, may have to consider ordering a new one. Is there a "better" one you can recommend?

I am using

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Triumph-Motorcycle-TuneECU-Program/dp/B003ZKKMLE/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1443744669&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+cable+for+triumph+obdii with

http://www.amazon.com/Goliton%C2%AE-OBD2-Connector-Diagnostic-Adapter/dp/B0053NRLHE/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1443744609&sr=1-1&keywords=goliton+fiat

I believe that's the same as yours. It has been very well reviewed and is supposed to use a genuine FTDI chip, and my testing on it is positive.

[rboe]

That is the very one I bought and advised Jim to get. I suppose there is chance that both went tits up and need replacing. Both computers seem to recognize it correctly when plugged in (not an air tight experiment to indicated a fully functioning cable though) which has me scratching my head.

I wonder if there is a better unit on the market.

[sib]

I'm using El Capitan OSX 10.11.1 beta.  Guzzidiag (0.47) works fine for me ('16 Stone), but it didn't until I installed the FTDI USB serial driver (2.3) off the Guzzidiag site.  I used Guzzidiag to determine my ECU flash version (it's 4533V740).  I don't intend to update it until I see reports of a newer one that works better.  So far, the updates seem to do more harm than good.

[rboe]

Version 3.2?? I only see 2-3.5

[sib]

Version 3.2?? I only see 2-3.5

Sorry, lysdexic moment, it's vers. 2.3.  I've corrected the earlier post.

[rboe]

Whew! I was worried for a second!