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Thanks Chuck,Is it recommended that the engine is set at a particular position before disassemlying the clutch and/or the flywheel? i.e. TDC LH side or RH side.
It's not too tough a job to get in to the clutch and find out what is going on. I'd say it is likely to be the flywheel..
Thanks Photoguzzi I get the idea. I am just waiting on a bike lift to be delivered before I crab the frame. I already have the swing arm, bevel drive, starter motor, carbs, battery case, fuel tank, air filter, wiring, cables, etc. off. Not much more I can remove until I get the bike in the air.Thanks.
NICE PHOTOS!I use a little antiseize on the teeth applied with a tooth brush.is the intermediate plate warped? usually it's so warped it won't work at all.
I spose the PO could have put in a new clutch and left a very worn flywheel and outer splines could be so notched it's not moving in/out smoothly.. but your splines shown look great, almost like you didfn't have to go there.what does Roper say?
Having said that, once the bike is moving everything else if fine. It changes betweeen gears without any trouble and there is no clutch creep when stationary and the lever is held in and 1st gear is engaged. There is no clutch slip in any of the gears.I am looking for any helpful advice before I tear into pulling the transmission to see what is going on.Thanks
A couple of things.Those are Surflex 'One Size Fits Neither' plates. They haven't been in very long but you can already see that the V of the splines in the centre is beginning to round out. Piss 'em off and get some of the latest factory plates. Yes, I can supply as I can an intermediate plate if required.Lotsa dust for a low mileage clutch, looks like the friction plates are in the right way. I'm with Chuck at the moment, my guess is that the flywheel is probably history but you won't know until you take it to bits. Taking it apart isn't hard, just unwind the ring gear bolts a turn at a time in a crosshatch pattern but DO NOT try and reassemble it without the clutch tool, (Since your hub is OK unless you want to go into the box I wouldn't disturb it.) as I said I can lend you one or a second hand hub and bolt to use for puting the clutch back together.Since you're wanting to 'Cafe' it if the flywheel is toast you have a host of options for shedding weight when you replace it.Pete
Yup, I can do you one of those. Yes, they use all the rest of the standard componentry.I ran one for a while in my little hot rod. It worked well. I was expecting it to wear quickly but it was in there for a long time and every time I looked at it it looked perfect. Actually seemed to wear better than the steel wheels which surprised me.Pete
Yup, unbalanced carbs, too low an idle speed, hold the clutch in so the plates can thrash about at idle, worn splines will happen. I was just surprised at how well the alloy wheels which are anodised with some really hard treatment hold up.Pete