Wildguzzi.com
General Category => Bike Builds, Rebuilds And Restorations Only => Topic started by: berniebee on May 15, 2020, 02:31:20 PM
-
This thread will describe the rejuvenation of sorts (Not to be confused with a full on restoration!) of an '83 SP1000, with an eye to DIY as much as possible and a definite leaning towards thrift. (Tight wad, me? YES.)
First a starting point: When I purchased the bike, it was in mid crab, hanging from a chain block in surgery. The clutch and everything aft was laying about the garage. Probably not the best situation for someone who had never seen a Guzzi up close, but the price was right.
(https://i.ibb.co/Gddz01V/Bike-in-Lannis-s-garage.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Gddz01V)
I'll start small. How about a take apart of what the braking section of the Guzzi parts list calls a "valve"? It's what some people call a proportional valve, but these (And the ones on your car) are really pressure regulators. For me, linked braking is a big part of what makes a Moto a Guzzi. With the circlip out, the internals slid out of the body:
(https://i.ibb.co/x3Fdcqs/20200422-180548.jpg) (https://ibb.co/x3Fdcqs)
Luckily for me, the unit WAS seized. Otherwise when I removed the circlip that spring might have launched the bushing (The larger OD part on the right side, pic above) into a tender part of me.
After studying it a while I suspected that the bushing was seized onto the shaft, which you can just see protruding on the right end.
So into a vise it goes with an appropriate sized socket:
(https://i.ibb.co/0f54Y9p/20200515-120632.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0f54Y9p)
A spray of release oil and a slight closing of the vise:(Notice the spring compression.)
(https://i.ibb.co/y8VNKS2/20200515-120815.jpg) (https://ibb.co/y8VNKS2)
A few cycles of compression and release and finally the unit came apart: (Sorry about the focus.)
(https://i.ibb.co/0CRVvpj/20200515-121411.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0CRVvpj)
After some cleaning:
(https://i.ibb.co/Jpwh1yz/20200515-124657.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Jpwh1yz)
Back together, lubed with brake fluid:
(https://i.ibb.co/0Kh6gGZ/20200515-125744.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0Kh6gGZ)
Back in the vise with a smaller socket to install the circlip:
(https://i.ibb.co/vD2wMPp/20200515-130608.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vD2wMPp)
And finally some vaseline to keep out moisture. The last 10mm of the shaft is enclosed by the bushing, but it is open to atmosphere and that's where it seized. I suspect the rubber cap didn't keep out all the moisture, as it's not a tight fit. Hopefully the jelly will prevent this from happening again!
(https://i.ibb.co/1vXJmGN/20200515-132913.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1vXJmGN)
-
After disassembly and cleaning the wheels,
(https://i.ibb.co/7JB7m9M/20200514-204950.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7JB7m9M)
(Don't even ask how long it took to clean the brake pad/disk dust and Georgia undercoat!) I found one bearing per wheel was rough.
So I replaced all four. Splurging already, I know. But bearings are cheap from an industrial supply shop.
Getting the front bearings out was a bit of a challenge because the internal spacer leaves only a thin edge for your punch to "grab". I found that my widest round punch (1/2") worked best. New bearings stayed overnight in the freezer and then using my special tools (see the pic) they were a breeze to install.
(https://i.ibb.co/qy4xkZL/20200516-153508.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qy4xkZL)
The rear wheel was a little trickier. It was a bear to remove the steel sleeve/bearing tube, even with a 2" diameter steel pipe and the persuader. It didn't. want. to. let. go. But getting it out made wheel assembly a little easier. What worked for me is to insert the frozen bearings into the baked steel sleeve first.
(https://i.ibb.co/yYptyVn/20200516-135533.jpg) (https://ibb.co/yYptyVn)
Then freeze the whole shebang and coax that into the alloy wheel. Because it had been so difficult to remove, I made up a sleeve installation tool of threaded rod, a block of wood, washers and nuts. And then, surprise, surprise the dang thing just slipped in with one rap from my bare hand!
(https://i.ibb.co/jbD8MdY/20200516-132410.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jbD8MdY)
Dang! The cush drive plate wouldn't slide over the sleeve!
(https://i.ibb.co/9GZSkLw/20200516-153636.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9GZSkLw)
It looks like when I installed the bearing, the sleeve expanded slightly. I confirmed with a caliper- the end of the sleeve is now about .2mm bigger in diameter than the middle of the sleeve. Crap. The bearing wasn't THAT hard to install. File it? Sand it? (just kidding) This is a quick job to correct on a lathe, but I sold mine long ago- it wasn't earning it's keep, both monetarily and in the space it took up. So it looks like my next task is to locate a good old fashioned machine shop.
-
Hi Bernie... nice project. I'm also not restoring my Guzzi, a 76 T3... bought as a running bike, but standing for the last 30 years. I imagine we'll be dealing with lots of similar issues!
Rode mine today for the first time... not very successfully but after having the heads off, it's a milestone!
-
Quite a project Bernie. Look forward to seeing the progress. Best of luck to you and your knuckles!
-
Nice project! Do you know why the bike was crabbed before you bought it? Weird that your bearing carrier of the rear wheel expaned when pushing the bearing in?
The paint on the wheels look extremely good, is the rest of the paintwork in simmilar state?
-
Quite a project Bernie. Look forward to seeing the progress. Best of luck to you and your knuckles!
Thanks.
-
Hi Bernie... nice project. I'm also not restoring my Guzzi, a 76 T3... bought as a running bike, but standing for the last 30 years. I imagine we'll be dealing with lots of similar issues!
Rode mine today for the first time... not very successfully but after having the heads off, it's a milestone!
Yes, probably we will be seeing a lot of the same things, since it appears that Guzzi shared a lot of parts over many models and years.
-
Nice project! Do you know why the bike was crabbed before you bought it? Weird that your bearing carrier of the rear wheel expaned when pushing the bearing in?
The paint on the wheels look extremely good, is the rest of the paintwork in simmilar state?
It was crabbed for a clutch replacement- and the previous owner gave me new clutch plates, transmission input hub and a few seals too. Yes, it was weird that the bearing carrier expanded. I had checked the new bearing OD before installing it, (because I bought inexpensive Chinese made roller bearings.) and it was identical to the old bearing. The new bearing wasn't particularly hard to put in, because I froze the bearing and heated the bearing carrier. So I'm not sure why this happened. Luckily, I posted a "help wanted" ad in a local online website and a fellow biker/machinist answered the same day! He's going to correct the issue with his lathe.
About the condition of the wheels, it was a lucky positioning of the camera. There are several areas where the wheel paint has come off and there a few fairly deep gouges here and there. I did spend a lot of time cleaning them, so they look ok from a distance. The rest of the bike could use a repaint. The plastic front fender paint has faded and some has chipped away, the tank has a couple of minor dents and scuffed/ faded paint and one of the side cover's colours doesn't match the rest of the bike. It is definitely from another bike and it is missing the black plastic grill. But the rear fender is very nice! :laugh: 40,000 miles/70,000 kms on it.
-
Continuing with the wheels:Luck was with me.
A kind soul responded to my "Help, someone with lathe needed" ad on my local online site (Kijiji) the very same day I posted. A fellow biker and a machinist (Geez, where would you find those anywhere? :grin:) he had my sleeve ready a couple of days later.
So:
Sleeve in and install clip:
(https://i.ibb.co/1rShFSh/20200520-143630.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1rShFSh)
Shove the six disk bolts through:
(https://i.ibb.co/48H4NZL/20200520-143944.jpg) (https://ibb.co/48H4NZL)
Install the cush rubbers. Then lube the sleeve and and cush plate just like the factory did LOL, judging from the head stock bearings and this cush drive,
Italy must have experienced a national grease shortage in '83.
(https://i.ibb.co/3stqB8B/20200520-144616.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3stqB8B)
What the hell, the cush plate won't go in!
(https://i.ibb.co/JzLRGyj/20200520-145140.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JzLRGyj)
But with ArmorAll on the cush rubbers and couple of clamps, the cush plate easily slid in. And bonus, I've got the best looking cush rubbers in town. :rolleyes:
(https://i.ibb.co/9v94Sgn/20200520-150019.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9v94Sgn)
Install the fiber ring and retaining plate with three new bolts, (Because they were all reluctant to come out, one broke off, and I had to drill and re-tap the hole.
Yes, I ran the tap in the other two holes for good measure.)
(https://i.ibb.co/9GVCB80/20200520-150308.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9GVCB80)
Installed all the disks and voila! This baby is ready to roll! Well after I reassemble the rest of the bike, that is.
(https://i.ibb.co/DgSWqNr/20200520-152543.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DgSWqNr)
-
Nice work on the wheels :thumb:
-
Thanks! It's a start. Meanwhile the frame patiently waits.
(https://i.ibb.co/BGD6Yys/P1070365.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BGD6Yys)
-
The rear shocks look original and after 40,000 miles, are they any good?
Using my bits-around-the-garage shock spring compressor, I took them apart. Once the spring is compressed, the alloy preload adjuster can be rotated to where it pulls off.
(https://i.ibb.co/c2ZmHwV/20200503-151952.jpg) (https://ibb.co/c2ZmHwV)
Well first impressions weren't good. Every single part had some rust. The rust inside of the spring coils was especially heavy.
(https://i.ibb.co/2vW01h9/20200503-180045.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2vW01h9)
But with the dampers in a vise, there is smooth, heavy resistance to extension movement in both dampers and a fair amount of damping on compression too. I'm gonna use these shocks and see how it goes. So it's off to the paint shop (Ie:The other side of my garage) First, pluck out the rubber bump stop:
(https://i.ibb.co/LpkR1Kt/20200504-141828.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LpkR1Kt)
Sand most of the rust off, then extend the shock (But not all the way). Cover the bump stop and exposed shaft with masking tape:
(https://i.ibb.co/bmb8d8L/20200504-145205.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bmb8d8L)
Remove the tape when the paint has just dried and extend the shock out a little further to expose the line of paint, which you can then scrape off with a fingernail.
(https://i.ibb.co/cb6zhvy/20200505-100810.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cb6zhvy)
After the paint has fully cured, and some serious elbow grease to remove rust from the chrome, (And waxing of said chrome.) it's time to reassemble again using the trusty compressor. Remember that the plastic sleeve slides on to the damper first, with lip against the stop, then the chrome ring.
(https://i.ibb.co/c3Kd5mH/20200520-161923.jpg) (https://ibb.co/c3Kd5mH)
And the shocks now look pretty decent. Generic bushings for the eyelets are on the way...
(https://i.ibb.co/3pFxTtC/20200520-170716.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3pFxTtC)
-
This is totally my kind of thread.
-
This is totally my kind of thread.
Good to know SOMEONE is reading this besides me! :laugh:
BTW the spring compressor tool is not my original idea- there are plenty of DIY solutions out there, I just found one that matched what I had available.
-
Forwards- to the forks.
Believe it or not, these are the sliders AFTER cleaning with mineral spirits. I'm going to strip off the paint, and if these are not too scarred, polish them.
(https://i.ibb.co/fMbdV6X/20200518-112258.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fMbdV6X)
These air forks had an interconnecting tube which just crumbled off.
(https://i.ibb.co/M9fBGRS/20200518-112007.jpg) (https://ibb.co/M9fBGRS)
And after 37 years, it's no surprise to find cracked dust seals Hmm, replace them or put gaiters on? I'm starting to like the classic look of gaiters.
(https://i.ibb.co/YftxSR2/20200518-112125.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YftxSR2)
Unscrew the 10mm hex head bolt in the bottom of the painted slider and slip the slider off. Unscrew the large metal nut at the top of the chromed fork tube and everything else comes out of the fork tube. It turns out the the large nut is actually the top of the damper.
The tricky part is removing the circlip at the very bottom of the springs/damper assembly. How to remove circlip with the spring tension on it? I've seen written explanations of a how-to, but a picture is worth a thousand words. See below. Insert a thin object through the hole in the damper rod. Hold said thin object with your left hand. Now rotate the spring with your right hand so that it winds itself down, away from the circlip. Now you can let go, the spring remains in place and you can focus on removing the circlip. Whoever thought of this is a genius! In the pic below, the circlip is already off, but you get the idea.
(https://i.ibb.co/sCfqnWQ/20200521-111735.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sCfqnWQ)
Below, three pics to help me remember in what order all the bits go.
(https://i.ibb.co/SQdx7LN/20200518-125005.jpg) (https://ibb.co/SQdx7LN)
(https://i.ibb.co/LYv3PRW/20200518-125010.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LYv3PRW)
(https://i.ibb.co/d7GHZk3/20200518-125012.jpg) (https://ibb.co/d7GHZk3)
The damper is unscrewed from the damper rod with a plainly visible lock nut.
On top of the damper is a threaded black plastic plug. "Buddy, lend me a 16 mm wrench?" Yeah, neither do I.
(https://i.ibb.co/ggYgwWb/20200518-152754.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ggYgwWb)
Actually, even if you do have one, don't use it. The plug was in really tight. The flats of a mythical 16 mm wrench would barely cover half the flats of this plastic piece and probably break it as you twist. It's better to use (the much maligned but sometimes really useful) big arse crescent wrench.
(https://i.ibb.co/YhFmKj6/20200518-152830.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YhFmKj6)
I learned a long time ago (How? Don't ask. :tongue:) that the cheeks of many crescent wrench's jaws are not parallel. In other words, the jaws of the wrench are narrower at the front (tip) than at the back of the jaws. So if you are using a crescent wrench on narrow flats (as in this case), angle the wrench slightly so that the jaws have maximum contact with the flats. In the picture above the handle of the wrench leans towards the camera.
With the plug out, the air bladder can be plucked out... and it's bad news. This thing should look like a very little man's condom. Instead, the tip has been almost completely ripped off and folded back. (ouch)
(https://i.ibb.co/b6cDqxp/20200518-154156.jpg) (https://ibb.co/b6cDqxp)
The damper had plenty of clean, yellowish oil in it. Holding it upright, it seemed to have plenty of damping when extending the rod. But that macerated air bladder appears to be unavailable anywhere, so it looks like the end of the road for these dampers. The easy but costly solution is to install new FAC dampers. I've heard rumours of people installing Showa cartridges from nineties Honda bikes with some machining, so I'll check that possibility . I've got a '76 Yamaha XS500 parts bike that has 35mm forks, hmmm...
Many other things to tackle, so for now I'll let my mind percolate a little and go on to other stuff.
-
The sliders are fairly rough cast under that paint (and filler), so you'll have a bit of "smoothing" to do if you're going to polish them.
-
Looks like I'll have to get the sander out! Thanks.
-
So I took apart my transmission, mostly because it had about three teaspoons of oil in it, but also because the shifter...wouldn’t shift. I could press the lever down like I was downshifting, but nothing happened, except for the lever springing back up to it’s center position when I let it go. And the lever simply wouldn’t move at all in the upshift direction. Hmmm.
I did my homework. I pored over the Haynes “MOTO GUZZI V-TWINS” manual and John Noble’s nicely photographed transmission take apart article. Studied the official Moto Guzzi SP1000 parts list. I watched a couple of German language how to’s. They are beautifully shot and explained, so it’s just a shame that I failed my grade ten German class due to lack of interest. Couldn’t understand a word. My teenage indifference has come to bite me in the arse. (My Berlin born mom was, at the time, uh, displeased. ) Well dammit, who knew I was going to buy an Italian motorcycle? Also, I picked up some nuggets from my nearly new but already slightly oil stained copy of Guzziology. ($65 Can on Ebay and worth every penny, IMHO.) And searching this site, I saw some pretty good descriptions and pics too.
But there lies in these different sources some confusion -what the heck is going on with the names of the transmission shafts? I think John Noble even refers to one of the shafts by two different names in his article.
I've created a chart:
Moto Haynes John Dave (Guzziology)
Guzzi manual Noble Richardson
Clutch shaft Input Input Input
Mainshaft Layshaft/Intermediate Cluster Mainshaft
Layshaft Output/Mainshaft Output Layshaft
So depending on who you are talking to, a layshaft is a mainshaft and a mainshaft is a layshaft, and the middle shaft is a mainshaft/layshaft/intermediate shaft or cluster.
I had to take an Aspirin.
I have my own names for these shafts. The shaft that is inserted into the clutch should be called “The shaft where the stupid clutch boss round nut was tightened by an eight hundred pound Italian gorilla with a 3/4” drive socket.” Followed by a swear word.
The shaft that exits the rear deserves the title of the “Aw, where did that ball bearing go?” shaft.
Maybe the middle shaft should be called just that. You know, The Middle Shaft. Not the lay or main or cluster. Maybe the intermediate. Or maybe the “Ooh, parts fall off really easily from both ends of this” shaft. ( You know how I know, at this point.) But I’m undecided.
Seriously, I’ll refer to them as the input, middle, and output shafts. Transmission disassembly has been dealt with numerous times, on this forum, so I’ll only post a few pics, unique to my work in progress.
Special tool for removing the output shaft nut, about to be welded together. The “socket” is from a plumber’s valve socket set, which cost me about $15. Scrap piece of square tubing for the handle. I used this tool, along with the driveshaft sleeve in a vice grip plier. Yes, the vice grips left a few scars. (On the sleeve.)
(https://i.ibb.co/yfDnFyG/20200527-181111.jpg) (https://ibb.co/yfDnFyG)
I marked the shift forks in order from top to bottom as #1, 2, and 3, because a couple of sources warned to not mix them up. The two bottom ones are identical and really you just want to be able to note where any fork wear is, so that you can shim the drum accordingly. Mine were near perfect, especially when you consider they had 40,000 miles.
(https://i.ibb.co/XpJnPtR/20200527-220108.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XpJnPtR)
Rollers for the input shaft rear bearing were scattered inside the transmission. Though I think that happened when I pulled the shaft out.
Below: A few rollers missing.
(https://i.ibb.co/SnDL1fR/20200527-210955.jpg) (https://ibb.co/SnDL1fR)
John Noble’s article gave me a bit of a scare. Looking at the rear end of the output shaft, one of his pics showed (looking at the end, going inwards) a thick washer, an o-ring and then a very thin washer. I spent the better part of an hour looking for the “lost” thin washer. Then I looked at the Guzzi Parts list for the part number, so I could order one, and it wasn’t there! Turns out that the thin washer was only installed on later transmissions. But it could be installed (according to Dave Richardson) on mine. Only I can’t find the number! Apparently earlier transmissions didn’t even have the o-ring.
Hey no thin washer under this o-ring!
(https://i.ibb.co/QFYJW3N/20200527-211440.jpg) (https://ibb.co/QFYJW3N)
I’ve also discovered that the shift drum has excessive axial play. Something between 0.4 and 0.5 mm.
Measured by installing just the drum with a couple of washers/shims combination until I got no play with the end case installed.
(https://i.ibb.co/LgkcnD5/20200527-212004.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LgkcnD5)
The shifting problem turned out to be (I think) a rusty shift drum shim that had probably frozen the drum in place.
Rusty shim
(https://i.ibb.co/f1JMCTb/20200530-085640.jpg) (https://ibb.co/f1JMCTb)
Everything else looks fine- virtually no wear on the forks, very tiny chips on a couple of dogs and oil covering everything except the rusty shim.
So the transmission shall remain asunder, with parts carefully bagged and tagged until several shims, seals, bearing and o-rings show up.
-
dont worry about the air bladders in the forks , they were a gadget ,
in theory they should provide a additional air spring to adjust the ride height, but they dont.
if the damping is still Ok, there is no reason to change the fork dampers.
new ones will be just as good/bad as the old ones
of course a modern cartridge will improve damping enormously , but those take some modifying.
( the XS500 did not have damping cartridges. )
-
dont worry about the air bladders in the forks , they were a gadget ,
in theory they should provide a additional air spring to adjust the ride height, but they dont.
if the damping is still Ok, there is no reason to change the fork dampers.
new ones will be just as good/bad as the old ones
of course a modern cartridge will improve damping enormously , but those take some modifying.
( the XS500 did not have damping cartridges. )
Thanks, much appreciated. While looking for a replacement, I noticed that fork bladders from other bikes were much larger. I was wondering how effective the tiny Guzzi bladders would be. I'll reassemble and use the forks with just the top ring of the bladders as a sealing washer and see how it goes.
About the XS500, true they didn't have damping cartridges, but installing cartridge emulators on these forks is pretty cheap and simple. I've done this on my running XS500. (I have two XS500's in my garage, one's a fairly complete parts bike.) But the XS500 fork internals would need many more modifications than CBR600F bits to fit in the Guzzi, so I've decided against it.
I'll keep my eye out for compatible cartridge fork internals, but knowing that I can use the Guzzi forks as is for now is great. Again, thanks.
-
i started motorcycling on a XS400 , was never really impressed by the front forks.
but may be with emulators they are better.
the inside of the guzzi fork stanchions are not machined, so running emulators in them will be a challenge.
i probably started the showa cartridge conversions for guzzi's , there should be a 10 year old tread on the forum on how to
from when i did my le mans 2 , but the pictures disappeared .
I did a couple since, used VFR (RC36), gsxr and cbr600 cartridges.
It is a pretty straightforward process if you have access to lathe, because you need to cut M29x1 thread in the showa fork tops.
if you need additional info , just ask
-
So I've put the SP1000 project mostly on hold for now. (UPDATE: In May 2021, I sold both of these bikes.)
Two reasons:
A: This sweet little Honda C70 has been a distraction. It was an impulse buy about 10 years ago as a rusty fixer upper thinking the wife might try it and like it enough to commute to the office with it. But it languished under a tarp in the garage since then. This spring I stripped it down to the frame and I've finally brought it up to clean running condition. Still needs a front fender, because I (Dammit!) ordered the wrong one from Taiwan. (Who knew there were two different styles?) I promised myself I'd finish this bike before starting another. Promise broken! But it really needs to be completed, so that I can free some space. Wife is not interested. Besides, selling it would pay for nice little box of Guzzi parts.
(https://i.ibb.co/kGRTzx5/20200618-141321.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kGRTzx5)
And B: With the Canadian/USA border closed, I'm waiting to get the Guzzi chrome seat railing sitting in a U.S. PO box just on the U.S. side of the border. I've also paid for a set of dampers but told the American seller to hold them until I can get down to the PO box. There are numerous other parts which I need from U.S. suppliers and normally get shipped to that PO box. These suppliers do ship to Canada, but the difference in shipping costs plus the border brokerage fees is substantial. And the wait for packages to clear the border has soared to weeks. So I'll bide my time. Now that the --19 infection rate is way down, (We've had something like two new infections in two weeks in our area.) I've put aside concerns of unnecessarily taking up a hospital bed and started to ride the Yamaha XS500C. Nice to be on a bike again!
(https://i.ibb.co/Hx1jjqz/20200626-114559.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Hx1jjqz)
-
So after a long layoff, it's on to carburetors. And they look filthy.
(https://i.ibb.co/WBcXYgx/20210504-152937.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WBcXYgx)
But inside, they didn't look that bad. The brass is discoloured but not gunky and the bottom of the float bowl has minimal crap in it.
(https://i.ibb.co/h2cp0VN/20210504-164252.jpg) (https://ibb.co/h2cp0VN)
So I strip one of these fairly complex PHF30DS carbs one at a time, noting the pilot and idle speed screw settings and and then dunk it into my new favorite toy, a 6L ultrasonic cleaner.
(https://i.ibb.co/TP80pf7/20210505-140250.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TP80pf7)
50C heat and 1:10 Simple Green/water solution results in a really clean carb and parts.
(https://i.ibb.co/J3ZxH31/20210505-160733.jpg) (https://ibb.co/J3ZxH31)
But I run into a problem with carb#2 The float bowl pivot pin on these carbs rests on two posts, one on either side of the float. One post has a through hole, the other a blind hole. In other words you can push the pin in only from one side and it has to be pulled out from the same side. You can't drive the pin out with a thin punch, only pull it out. So what do you do when you see this?
(https://i.ibb.co/8sQGKT4/20210505-120820.jpg) (https://ibb.co/8sQGKT4)
The pin has been driven in too deep and it has a slightly rounded tip, so there no purchase for pliers to grab on to. Out come my files and yup, I file away about 1/4 of the width of the post to be able to grab the pin. Obviously someone sledge hammered the pin into place, as it is of course VERY hard to pull out, and I'm sweating from concern that I'm going break a post and scrap a carburetor body. But finally it comes loose and I breathe a sigh of relief.
(https://i.ibb.co/D4wjGKy/20210505-123046.jpg) (https://ibb.co/D4wjGKy)
And that's what a filed post looks like.
I noticed that the two carb kits did not have identical parts. The little green 0-ring in this kit wasn't in the other kit. And the gasket for the float valve body was quite different in the other kit , having a brass grommet in the center, but still functional. Hmmm,...
(https://i.ibb.co/441XK5K/20210505-161120.jpg) (https://ibb.co/441XK5K)
When reassembling the accelerator pump don't forget the spring. Don't forget the spring . Don't forget...(This is for me.LOL)
(https://i.ibb.co/rGXWYNR/20210505-162143.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rGXWYNR)
Look ma, no screen filter, just a filter frame! Yes, that's what came with the rebuild kit. I guess I'll be installing inline filters.
(https://i.ibb.co/mzBJMtP/20210505-140426.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mzBJMtP)
So when I got to setting the float heights, the Haynes manual said 23.5mm for 10 gram floats, 24.5 mm for 14 gram floats. My calibrated finger tips says the float weighs 10.4 grams. (Just kidding, I have a scale for measuring uh,...never mind.)
So:
(https://i.ibb.co/cx7D4cK/20210505-163441.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cx7D4cK)
Another tip ( I read this somewhere online) is to make sure that the floats are not touching the top of the float bowl when you have set them, otherwise the valve may never close completely.
And tada! Two hopefully ready to go Dell'Orto carbs.
(https://i.ibb.co/xYw2MDr/20210505-164152.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xYw2MDr)
-
When the float pivot pin is in too deep to grab, simply slide the float over to the closed side, clamp down on the float "tube" with vise grips, move it to the open side, repeat until the pin protrudes enough to grab.
I set float levels on PHFs to 18.5 with the carb inverted and spring loaded tip of the float needle fully compressed. This works out to around 22 mm when the carb is held on it's side and the spring isn't compressed.
-
When the float pivot pin is in too deep to grab, simply slide the float over to the closed side, clamp down on the float "tube" with vise grips, move it to the open side, repeat until the pin protrudes enough to grab.
I set float levels on PHFs to 18.5 with the carb inverted and spring loaded tip of the float needle fully compressed. This works out to around 22 mm when the carb is held on it's side and the spring isn't compressed.
I thought about that, but I was concerned that I would crush the tube, making it unusable. Admittedly, that would be less expensive than a new carb body!
Thanks I will defer to your experience and set the float levels as you do. The Haynes manual actual only describes disassembling the square slide (name escapes me here.) carb. There is a a blow apart diagram of the PHF carb, but it is a crank top style, and it's unclear if the float settings apply to it. So I'm glad you are here!
-
I thought about that, but I was concerned that I would crush the tube, making it unusable. Admittedly, that would be less expensive than a new carb body!
Thanks I will defer to your experience and set the float levels as you do. The Haynes manual actual only describes disassembling the square slide (name escapes me here.) carb. There is a a blow apart diagram of the PHF carb, but it is a crank top style, and it's unclear if the float settings apply to it. So I'm glad you are here!
The tube springs back, no harm done, pin fits like it did before.
-
Hey Bernie. Did you physically clear out the small holes in the idle jets? I run a small drill bit (#78 I think) or guitar string through the holes and then compressed air and check with a light. Still a great thread.
-
I keep forgetting to keep a set of guitar string cutoffs in the garage- thanks! About the idle jets- yes, they were checked with a light too.
-
Hey Bernie, great post and close to my heart as I have a '79(!) 1000SP sitting in my shed. I have just finished a '73 V7Sport and rode it to the Cedar vale Guzzi campout this weekend.
I hope to be starting on my SP later this year and will be watching your progress!
-
Continuing with the wheels:Luck was with me.
.
.
.
Installed all the disks and voila! This baby is ready to roll! Well after I reassemble the rest of the bike, that is.
(https://i.ibb.co/DgSWqNr/20200520-152543.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DgSWqNr)
Nice thread. I just discovered it. I'm very interested in the front and rear shock rework.
Yeah, the wheels look really nice. Mine look like crap. Did you do the cleaning with the tires on?
I need to clean mine, which are still painted, and I'm hoping the tires don't get ruined by chemicals.
-
Nice project!!
-
Did you do the cleaning with the tires on?
I need to clean mine, which are still painted, and I'm hoping the tires don't get ruined by chemicals.
Yes I cleaned with the tires on. But the tires are just rim protectors at this point, they will be replaced.
-
Time for a new camchain tensioner. The original rubber block tensioner was looking pretty, but not really doing much. I could have adjusted it to take up the slack, but it's probably the original 1983 rubber...
(https://i.ibb.co/1zYBs4m/20210511-153604.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1zYBs4m)
And the chain had started to slap the inside of the case.
(https://i.ibb.co/84fJZ8W/20210511-160813.jpg) (https://ibb.co/84fJZ8W)
First, a scrap piece of aluminum bar stock (“I knew it would come in handy one day!”” -says I, the guy with too much garbage in his garage.) was cut and drilled to become my special Gootsie flywheel retainer tool.
(https://i.ibb.co/rwRjfmb/20210512-165150.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rwRjfmb)
I was able to get the round crankshaft nut off with a punch and a hammer.
The camshaft nut and oil pump nut weren’t a problem . Here they are all loose.
(https://i.ibb.co/866dVXc/20210511-153405.jpg) (https://ibb.co/866dVXc)
Remembering to align the marks on the crank and cam shafts, I used a puller with some conveniently sized washers, bolts and nuts to pull the cam sprocket. the other sprockets came off with a good tug.
(https://i.ibb.co/B6xfxnN/20210511-154726.jpg) (https://ibb.co/B6xfxnN)
I spent "only" ten minutes looking for the oil pump shaft's tiny Woodroffe key. #@##!
The new tensioner was a bit of a pain to put in. I had to flatten the curve of the tensioner by clamping it to the right side of the engine case. To avoid mangling parts with the toothed jaws of a small long nosed locking plier, I inserted a piece of plastic (courtesy of a peanut butter jar) to protect the tensioner surface and a short piece of rubber hose over the jaw to grip and clamp on the engine case. On the third attempt all sprockets went in!
Here it is, with the round crank nut replaced by a very expensive hex nut, all nuts secured with Locktite 262. I had to buy deep 27mm and 32mm sockets for this job.
(https://i.ibb.co/TM9f8s7/20210512-163623.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TM9f8s7)
Bonus, the 27mm deep socket was just the right size to install the new camchain cover oil seal!
(https://i.ibb.co/cvVHxSK/20210513-115909.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cvVHxSK)
-
Nice project!!
Thanks. It's gonna be a long one, I suspect.
-
My transmission has been in bits for a few months. Last week I received a transmission gasket kit and a few shift drum shims and other parts from MG Cycle. I unpacked my own pile of Guzzi transmission parts:
(https://i.ibb.co/xLppMzh/20210510-112324.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xLppMzh)
First thing on the "to do" list: Replace the rear input shaft bearing, which basically fell apart when I disassembled the transmission. The cage was bent, so erring on the side of caution it's coming out. Easy to do with a heat gun, heating the whole assembly to start and then focusing on the area around the bearing.
(https://i.ibb.co/J3vSxWN/20210510-160746.jpg) (https://ibb.co/J3vSxWN)
The freezer cooled new bearing slipped right in.
I followed Pete Roper’s excellent article on shimming the shift drum. My drum had a lot of end play which apparently is not unusual and is the cause of many a false neutral. Because the shifter forks showed no wear, I simply increased the size of the shim at each end by 0.2mm and that left it with an almost imperceptible amount of play.
I followed John Noble’s detailed and excellent procedure on disassembly and assembly, with one exception. John says that after installing the input shaft, you can install the middle (Cluster ) shaft and then lastly the output shaft. You lie, John! There was no way I could install the output shaft after the middle shaft. I had to install the two latter shafts coupled together.
I found that an automotive trim remover is a good seal removal tool.
(https://i.ibb.co/p4wqK6N/20210510-164745.jpg) (https://ibb.co/p4wqK6N)
And a 1-1/2" ABS (plumbing) pipe, sanded to a slightly smaller O.D. is a great seal driver for the input and output shafts.
(https://i.ibb.co/Bf0vqDK/20210510-170031.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Bf0vqDK)
No parts left over- a good sign! Actually I installed one more part than I took out. A tiny washer on the output shaft, which was used on later transmissions. Supposedly it supports the o-ring above it to help prevent oil leaks.
(https://i.ibb.co/XJbXBX9/20210511-113355pointer.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XJbXBX9)
The other mod: I replaced the ridiculous round nut which holds the hub on to the input shaft with a hex nut and Loctite 262.
Guzziology has been a great help with the Guzzi and here’s one tip I used. The end case gasket was too small. There was no way the gasket screw holes were going to line up correctly .Richardson’s tip is to wet it briefly, wipe it off and then install it.
(https://i.ibb.co/0C62yXP/20210511-121642.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0C62yXP)
Worked like a charm.
(https://i.ibb.co/FDt7ddn/20210511-123123.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FDt7ddn)
All together with new gasket and oil seals and aluminum washers, and the transmission seems to shift ok!
-
Bearings! I love it when a bike uses common, cheap bearings. Both the Guzzi headstock and swing arm bearings are common as roaches. The original headstock bearings were removed a few months ago.
It's pretty straightforward to install new ones, but you need the right size bearing drivers.
Just freeze the parts that need shrinking, that is the steering stem and the upper and lower bearing shells:
(https://i.ibb.co/gRZVVCL/20210513-162728.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gRZVVCL)
picture upload site (https://imgbb.com/)
And heat the parts that need expanding- the headstock and roller bearings, remembering to grease the bearings beforehand. Then drive the lower roller onto the steering stem. I had a piece of tubing that was just right to drive the roller bearing on to the stem. Ok, maybe a little long...
(https://i.ibb.co/HXhtZ9m/20210513-162918.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HXhtZ9m)
And don't forget to install the rubber seal and metal washer beneath the bearing first! That's frost on the lower triple tree.
(https://i.ibb.co/k9N5KXg/20210513-163057.jpg) (https://ibb.co/k9N5KXg)
Then heat the headstock gently with a heat gun (It's easy to blister the paint.) and use the tools shown below the headstock to install the upper and lower bearing shells. Luckily, I also had just the right O.D. pipe to drive the shells in.
(https://i.ibb.co/0C1BM4S/20210513-164132.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0C1BM4S)
I kept putting off installing new swing arm bearings, because you need a blind bearing puller to get the old ones out. But Princess Auto (Canada's Harbor Freight) never did put their puller kit on sale in the year I was looking at one. So I have to pry open my wallet for full price, for a tool I was going to use for five minutes. And I'll probably never use it again! First I pried off the seals at each side:
(https://i.ibb.co/xGVpkDM/20210515-154218.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xGVpkDM)
And here's the set up to pull out the bearing shell. Note the heatgun and WD40, both help.
(https://i.ibb.co/5Rf0jR4/20210516-165707.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5Rf0jR4)
Here's a pic of the old shell on the driveshaft side. Pretty bad brinneling, no?
(https://i.ibb.co/rd4J8LX/20210516-170757.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rd4J8LX)
Just like for the headstock the new bearing shells were tossed into the deep freezer for a couple of hours to shrink them before installing.
(https://i.ibb.co/gWXZtjm/20210518-101340.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gWXZtjm)
-
My heart double timed for a moment when I pulled the oil pan and saw this metal rod sitting in the oil:
(https://i.ibb.co/KxPYzmZ/20210513-135114.jpg) (https://ibb.co/KxPYzmZ)
It was just the shaft of an old oil dipstick.
Cleaned up the pan and saw no damage there or above. It's looks like it fell in while the engine was stopped.
(https://i.ibb.co/MRNtkfr/20210513-152234.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MRNtkfr)
-
Looking good and moving fast Bernie. Thanks for the excellent pictures.
-
Before installing the clutch, I applied J.B. Weld (epoxy) to the camshaft blanking plug, a new gasket for the crankcase vent and new aluminum washers to the oil drain back pipe banjo fitting.
(https://i.ibb.co/cLcJ5nT/20210519-092158labelled.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cLcJ5nT)
Installed the flywheel with Schnorr type washers under the bolt heads:
(https://i.ibb.co/SVLbjkR/20210519-122645.jpg) (https://ibb.co/SVLbjkR)
A three part clutch alignment tool. From left to right the: clutch hub, a center stand bracket spacer and a M12-1.5 x 90mm bolt.
(https://i.ibb.co/NTXFM2B/20210519-123743.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NTXFM2B)
If you angle the torque wrench so that it crosses center while you are tightening, you can easily keep the flywheel from turning with your other hand. No need for a flywheel holder tool.
(https://i.ibb.co/zxZCK39/20210519-130201.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zxZCK39)
Remembered to install the clutch center before dropping the transmission on to the back of the motor!
(https://i.ibb.co/CJp1wQj/20210519-123009.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CJp1wQj)
And then installed the push rod and o-rings.
(https://i.ibb.co/rQSdfS8/20210520-134609.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rQSdfS8)
The other clutch bits went in without incident.
-
I've always wanted to try electroplating zinc and the Moto Guzzi was the excuse to do it.
Zinc is relatively cheap. My one not-absolutely-necessary-but-nice-to-have buy was a DC-DC converter with a current limiter. $15 on Aliexpress. You can see the black power brick that supplies 12 volts to the convertor in the background. It's from a box of old power bricks and adapters collected from phones, toys, computers and industrial equipment.
(https://i.ibb.co/1Zr3Xsq/20210522-113922.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1Zr3Xsq)
In this image I am plating the two center stand brackets, but it worked better with just one at a time.
(https://i.ibb.co/bF4T2Lz/20210522-113549.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bF4T2Lz)
Plating the large engine mount bolt:
(https://i.ibb.co/QvXnNDz/20210521-175307.jpg) (https://ibb.co/QvXnNDz)
I don't have "before" pics, but trust me, these brackets and the bolt and nut were really bad. In the foreground is the bracket lightly polished with a brass wire wheel on a dremel and some fine steel wool. The bracket in the background is unpolished zinc. On the mounting bolt, I polished only the head and the threaded end.
(https://i.ibb.co/M6gtsCs/20210522-134453.jpg) (https://ibb.co/M6gtsCs)
"Honey, just a minute. I'm polishing my nuts."
(https://i.ibb.co/GTTvQt1/20210521-174502.jpg) (https://ibb.co/GTTvQt1)
-
But with ArmorAll on the cush rubbers and couple of clamps, the cush plate easily slid in. And bonus, I've got the best looking cush rubbers in town. :rolleyes:
(https://i.ibb.co/9v94Sgn/20200520-150019.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9v94Sgn)
Install the fiber ring and retaining plate with three new bolts, (Because they were all reluctant to come out, one broke off, and I had to drill and re-tap the hole.
Yes, I ran the tap in the other two holes for good measure.)
Bernie, for 30 years now we have been drilling a 1/2" or 13mm hole through the cush rubbers. I'm surprised no one else brought this to your attention. This allows the cush rubber to actually work, the little wedge can compress and expand. When it's a solid block, there is nowhere for it to flex.
It makes a noticeable difference to gear changes and a bigger difference to drive line spline wear. I was skeptical for a while, because I own a V7 Sport which has no cush in the wheel. Then I drilled a set for someone else's bike and immediately felt the effect. I shortly thereafter found an 850T wheel, drilled the rubbers & fitted it to my Sport. Great!
-
[qu
Worked like a charm.
(https://i.ibb.co/FDt7ddn/20210511-123123.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FDt7ddn)
All together with new gasket and oil seals and aluminum washers, and the transmission seems to shift ok!
[/quote]
Bernie, this is a great thread, I'm loving it. You have done a great job on your trans for a first timer. Interesting that you found a hex nut for the front shaft, I trust you torqued both the front & rear nuts to the specs? It's really important, the shafts float and wear bearing edges if they are not seriously tight. I have stripped transmissions which have left loose and they are are invariably a tragimess inside.
-
The sliders are fairly rough cast under that paint (and filler), so you'll have a bit of "smoothing" to do if you're going to polish them.
You weren't kidding, Charlie. These sliders had really uneven surfaces with some deep pitting. And the fork paint was tenacious. It laughed at my paint stripper. I used an oscillating sander to get some of the paint off, then a brass wire wheel on a bench grinder, then #100 grit by hand for an hour. Then 200, 400, 600 and 1,000 to get this. I just couldn't get rid of all the deep imperfections. A few hours work resulted in this:
(https://i.ibb.co/JvxgKjK/20210530-163258.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JvxgKjK)
I'll try the buffing wheel tomorrow, then I'll check this picture of an assembled SP to see which sides of the sliders "show". The hidden parts aren't getting anymore work done!
(https://i.ibb.co/2g5w1r0/SP1000front-end.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2g5w1r0)
-
Success! Sort of. They are far from perfect, with one noticeable gouge and some small areas which remain pitted. But considering that fork sliders generally are seen from at least a couple of feet away, they'll do. I'll try not to look at them too closely when I'm bleeding the brakes. :laugh:
(https://i.ibb.co/8b2CBvr/20210531-104808.jpg) (https://ibb.co/8b2CBvr)
I'm waiting for for fork seals to arrive from MG Cycle (Canada customs agency is agonizingly slow to process packages these days.) so I'll move on to something else.
-
Bernie, for 30 years now we have been drilling a 1/2" or 13mm hole through the cush rubbers. I'm surprised no one else brought this to your attention. This allows the cush rubber to actually work, the little wedge can compress and expand. When it's a solid block, there is nowhere for it to flex.
It makes a noticeable difference to gear changes and a bigger difference to drive line spline wear. I was skeptical for a while, because I own a V7 Sport which has no cush in the wheel. Then I drilled a set for someone else's bike and immediately felt the effect. I shortly thereafter found an 850T wheel, drilled the rubbers & fitted it to my Sport. Great!
Hi Roy, I missed reading your post a few days back. Those dang advertisements on this forum pop up and sometimes it looks like a post is just an advertisement with no actual content from a member of the forum. About the cush rubbers. While I was working on the wheels, I had a look and there didn't seem to a consensus on the forum as to whether holes were an advantage. As you mention, some of the earlier bikes don't even have rubbers. So I've decided to do an experiment and add another data point to the discussion. I'm going to leave them as is until I've ridden the bike for a while to get a feel for the shifting. (This is my first Guzzi.) Then I'll drill the rubbers, ride a bit more and report back to the forum. The drive splines at the transmission, drive shaft and rear end all look very good at 40,000 miles.
-Bernie
-
Painting! Definitely not my area of expertise. But the paint on the tank is tired, a bit rusty and there's a shallow but noticeable dent on the left upper flank. The metal back fender is also rusty and the front plastic fender has chipping paint. One side cover doesn't have the same colour scheme as the rest of the bike. I'm determined to DIY this bike as much as possible, so the garage is now a (spray can) paint shop.
With the advent of 2K clear in a can (Spraymax) It's possible to get a decent, hard wearing finish with rattle cans. Not to show bike standards maybe, but that was never my goal.
Degrease/ wash all the parts and then remove the red/white striping on the tank and one side cover with a heat gun:
(https://i.ibb.co/5K5VB4Y/20210608-211839.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5K5VB4Y)
Then I notice Luigi at the factory left a short and curly under the paint: Uh. Oh well, that will sand off.
(https://i.ibb.co/s5PFnkL/20210609-094540.jpg) (https://ibb.co/s5PFnkL)
Finishing putty and sanding:
(https://i.ibb.co/XtBfLZW/20210609-171141.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XtBfLZW)
And again:
(https://i.ibb.co/PmhZxX7/20210609-171305.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PmhZxX7)
And again:
(https://i.ibb.co/wzGsyk9/20210610-093327.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wzGsyk9)
Except for the front fender every part required a bit of putty and sanding.
A couple of coats of filler/primer:
(https://i.ibb.co/gywnxYY/20210615-190539.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gywnxYY)
(https://i.ibb.co/4TW6rTv/20210615-190555.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4TW6rTv)
Careful sanding with #800 and then three coats of Duplicolor Toyota Deep Blue Pearl (8P4): I love this colour and the white Moto Guzzi badges will really pop. Maybe some classic arcing white stripes too? We'll see.
(https://i.ibb.co/hWv8fdv/20210616-121506.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hWv8fdv)
combination emojis (https://emoticoncentral.com/category/combination)
It's really pretty good looking at this point.
I'll wait a week for the colour coat to harden and then apply two or three coats of 2K clear.
-
Looking sharp. :popcorn:
-
While the clear coat on the tank and other painted parts is curing...the fork seals came in, so time to reassemble the forks.
I am replacing the old, damaged dampers with slightly used ones, bought from a a WildGuzzi member. (Thanks Val!)
Below the old brass coloured dampers and the newer-ish dampers. Note how the threaded top caps are integral to the old dampers, but a separate piece on the new ones.
(https://i.ibb.co/9Wt6Ltt/20210624-152017.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9Wt6Ltt)
Stick a thin object through the rod hole and twist the spring around
(https://i.ibb.co/2NBWmv4/20210624-153242.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2NBWmv4)
Until the spring compresses enough to expose the rod's circlip
(https://i.ibb.co/PNC2xqr/20210624-153302.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PNC2xqr)
Remove the circlip
(https://i.ibb.co/8bZZ99s/20210624-153922.jpg) (https://ibb.co/8bZZ99s)
Then pull off the long and short springs and bits from the damper rod.
(https://i.ibb.co/wRJkkGP/20210624-153712.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wRJkkGP)
Loosen the nut so that you can separate the damper from the rod.
(https://i.ibb.co/DRdTXMH/20210624-154215.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DRdTXMH)
Then reverse all of this to assemble using the new damper.
The way I remember to orient seals is that the spring side always faces the liquid you are trying to keep from leaking out.
(https://i.ibb.co/72w3DYQ/20210624-155636.jpg) (https://ibb.co/72w3DYQ)
Start the seal replacement by pushing the fork slider down on to the seal
(https://i.ibb.co/dmjzWWC/20210624-155647.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dmjzWWC)
Then drive the seal home using a suitable driver. I used a 32mm 1/2" drive socket, but a 34 mm would be even better.
(https://i.ibb.co/ZBpWPG5/20210624-155729.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZBpWPG5)
(https://i.ibb.co/bKLG5w4/20210624-155847.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bKLG5w4)
Slip the spring seat on to the spring end. Notice the projection along the top edge at about 5 o'clock.
(https://i.ibb.co/kxqM4GW/20210624-160228.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kxqM4GW)
Invert the rod and slip the slider on to it. Rotate the slider until the projection slips into the slider slot. You will feel a definite clunk as it drops in. Then thread and tighten the rod bolt into the bottom (The top, in this pic) of the slider.
Here I've already installed the small drain bolt with a new gasket. You can just see the head of that bolt, screwed into the right side at an angle, near the axle hole.
(https://i.ibb.co/PzQbBR5/20210624-160806.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PzQbBR5)
Slip the fork tube past the fork seal into the slider . I found that the seal lips were very prone to curling down as the fork tube slipped past. And staying that way. It took a few tries before the lips obeyed.
(https://i.ibb.co/wN2Gbwv/20210624-160952.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wN2Gbwv)
Clamping the fork to a suitable stand made adding the ATF easier.
(https://i.ibb.co/34m4YqP/20210624-161055.jpg) (https://ibb.co/34m4YqP)
WTF? 600ml is definitely not going to fit into this fork!
(https://i.ibb.co/CngVvZW/20210624-161657.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CngVvZW)
OH wait. 0.060 L is 60 ml. (Forehead slapping here.)
Anyway, after cleaning up the mess and pouring in the correct amount, the caps can be screwed on and the dust seals slid on.
Two decent looking forks.
(https://i.ibb.co/sWMsnq4/20210624-171921.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sWMsnq4)
The fork caps are soft aluminum and as received were pretty scratched up and rough looking. About an hour with 100, then 320 sandpaper and a polishing wheel and they looked really nice. This done before before installing them, of course. Another shiny bit to catch my eye when I'm sitting on the bike!
(https://i.ibb.co/74c0Q33/20210625-090106.jpg) (https://ibb.co/74c0Q33)
-
Good pictures.
About the seal that you drove in with socket... how did you remove the original seal?
-
Good pictures.
About the seal that you drove in with socket... how did you remove the original seal?
I don't remember specifically, but it was likely with the same orange handled automotive trim tool that I used to remove transmission seals and swing arm seals. You can see it in a couple of pics in this thread.
-
:thumb: gotta get me one.
-
I ordered a vapor blaster kit from Amazon for my pressure washer with the goal of removing the last bits of stubborn paint on my valve covers and hopefully the deep oil stains on the engine.
Here you can see the covers, pre blasting, screwed to a piece of plywood, These have been mostly cleaned up, but you can still see bits of black paint near the bolt holes and the surface has a mottled appearance.
(https://i.ibb.co/vVSHbd7/20210705-141342.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vVSHbd7)
And this is after. I'm sanding the gasket surface on sandpaper/glass plate.
(https://i.ibb.co/DGnSh0M/20210705-175202.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DGnSh0M)
how can i download pictures from facebook (https://imgbb.com/)
The gasket surface came out perfect:
(https://i.ibb.co/zfF9kf0/20210706-104358.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zfF9kf0)
Here is the engine pre-vapor blasting: You can just see the red rubber sheet material clamped by plywood at the exhausts and the starter mount location. Elsewhere I used various rubber plumbing caps, rubber chair leg caps, and duct tape.
(https://i.ibb.co/gvKwxjG/20210706-165511.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gvKwxjG)
And after vapor blasting. Conditions were ideal. Hot and windy.
(https://i.ibb.co/X2KdbKk/20210706-185958.jpg) (https://ibb.co/X2KdbKk)
NOTE: These vapor blasting kits are advertised on Amazon as "Pressure Washer Sandblasters" , which implies that you can use sand. I did use masonry sand- with a cartridge mask, goggles, outdoors, on a windy day. Sand is banned as a blast media in most countries with good reason. Blasted sand breaks into tiny silica pieces which cause serious damage to your lungs. BEWARE. Those Utube videos with guys using play sand with NO protective equipment? Idiots. End of rant.
I think I'm finally ready to assemble the bike!
-
One more thing before I put the engine in the frame, er, frame on the engine.
The bike came sans steering lock key, so:
I pried off the cover
(https://i.ibb.co/vjR3zBr/20210711-132711.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vjR3zBr)
Used a punch to knock the cylinder loose
(https://i.ibb.co/5RFBF90/20210711-133121.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5RFBF90)
Used a broomstick inserted into the steering head to push the cylinder part way out and dragged it completely out with vise grips.
(https://i.ibb.co/9Nkn8ds/20210711-133259.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9Nkn8ds)
The new lock assembly from MG Cycle:
(https://i.ibb.co/sWRgk0m/20210711-133747.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sWRgk0m)
Put the spring on the barrel and inserted the barrel part way until that little slotted screw hits the frame.
(https://i.ibb.co/M879B04/20210711-134028.jpg) (https://ibb.co/M879B04)
Then twisted the key CCW until the slotted screw lines up with the slot in the frame and push the assembly in.
(https://i.ibb.co/BG6CR1q/20210711-134054.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BG6CR1q)
Then hammered in the new pin to retain the cover.
(https://i.ibb.co/9wxb9g6/20210711-134245.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9wxb9g6)
Installed the frame rails, then with the help of my son, Installed the frame. In this pic I removed the long bolt to coat it with antiseize.
(https://i.ibb.co/kKNFjXf/20210711-155018.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kKNFjXf)
I had a bear of a time trying to install the fork tubes. Which reminded me how hard it was to remove them last year. The holes in the lower triple clamp are an extremely tight fit on the fork tubes. Sanding the the holes in the triple clamp to remove the paint helped but I still had to hammer a punch from the bottom to expand the triple clamp holes.
(https://i.ibb.co/7R2MP97/20210711-165530.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7R2MP97)
Installed the swingarm bearing, followed by the seal and spacer.
(https://i.ibb.co/cc0yzg2/20210711-180115.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cc0yzg2)
(https://i.ibb.co/1JcxRXc/20210711-180230.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1JcxRXc)
And repeat for the other side.
The swing arm went in without too much effort.
(https://i.ibb.co/MG387Cm/20210711-183828.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MG387Cm)
Crap, I forgot to install the headlight supports! Oh well.
(https://i.ibb.co/QFV0cM0/20210711-214646.jpg) (https://ibb.co/QFV0cM0)
Installed the rear plastic fender, battery plate, mid frame brackets and foot pegs.
(https://i.ibb.co/PcWfdz0/20210711-214707.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PcWfdz0)
-
Your attention to detail is amazing...following with great interest! :thumb:
-
I'm thrifty but when it comes to brakes I don't take any chances.
Every rubber part in the master cylinder and caliper is crucial, so I replace everything.
Into the vice and using compressed air the pucks come out:
(https://i.ibb.co/W3Dg098/20210715-111813.jpg) (https://ibb.co/W3Dg098)
matsuo basho (https://poetandpoem.com/Matsuo-Basho)
(https://i.ibb.co/3Mh9yBS/20210715-111904.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3Mh9yBS)
The caliper assembly screws were extremely tight.
(https://i.ibb.co/t8WDJ9b/20210715-114400.jpg) (https://ibb.co/t8WDJ9b)
But eventually all three calipers came apart:
(https://i.ibb.co/5j8bdhK/20210716-171526.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5j8bdhK)
Brembo's caliper rebuild kit instructions come in a wee booklet that unfolds into a giant poster, printed on both sides!
(https://i.ibb.co/4j01KNN/20210715-123925.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4j01KNN)
I replaced the rusty pucks in the rear caliper with anodized ones, but the coated front ones were fine. All done, except for the pads, which I'll install later. After a heavy duty cleaning and touch up with an tiny artists brush using flat rust paint, the calipers look acceptable.
(https://i.ibb.co/tPXkjry/20210718-183022.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tPXkjry)
I also rebuilt the master cylinders.(No pics.) These are straight forward. insert a thin punch into the fluid outlet and tap the entire piston and seal assembly out.
(https://i.ibb.co/8XyPy82/20210718-195436-text.jpg) (https://ibb.co/8XyPy82)
Inspect the cylinder bore to make sure it's not damaged and check that the tiny holes in the bottom of the reservoir aren't blocked.
Lube seals and insert the new piston assembly. Using a deep socket, hammer the lock ring into place. EDIT: It took me a fair bit of research to find out, that the lock ring should be oriented so that the larger end is facing away from the piston. (The Brembo kit instructions are hazy on this point.) That's it. Both master cylinders are now on the bike!
(https://i.ibb.co/DKBNQdD/20210718-193358.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DKBNQdD)
...and as soon as I finished tightening the mounting bolts on the rear MC (above), I realized that there was not enough room to remove the banjo bolt in order to install the brake line- Doh!
(https://i.ibb.co/pdZQzv6/20210718-193428.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pdZQzv6)
-
Your attention to detail is amazing...following with great interest! :thumb:
Thanks!
-
My SP1000 didn't have the original instrument dashboard. Instead it came with a stainless steel plate for the instruments and warning lights:
(https://i.ibb.co/yh5WMcq/20200414-instruments201612.jpg) (https://ibb.co/yh5WMcq)
Not to my taste, so I bought a console base and dash panel from MG cycle
(https://i.ibb.co/SffDqQx/Console-base-text.jpg) (https://ibb.co/SffDqQx)
(https://i.ibb.co/MMVbXSB/console-dash.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MMVbXSB)
And realizing I needed rubber bushings to mount the console, I ordered them too.
(https://i.ibb.co/Nrhg6t9/20210802-121138.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Nrhg6t9)
They were too big to fit into the mounting holes! It would have been nice if MG had clearly indicated that the bushings they sell don't fit the consoles they sell. But MG has otherwise been stellar with my orders, so it's a minor quibble.
Anyway, I now had the problem of how to rubber mount the console.
After a long search, I found appropriately sized aluminum tubing (Which I cut to length.) and rubber washers:
(https://i.ibb.co/VVqxSCS/20210802-120149.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VVqxSCS)
Stack the washers around the tubing:
(https://i.ibb.co/WPcgSZ0/20210802-120324.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WPcgSZ0)
Push this assembly into the console mounting holes, (Very tight fit- a good thing.) and assemble everything with a round head hex screw and a wide SS washer top and bottom:
(https://i.ibb.co/TcHXJ7F/20210802-171101.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TcHXJ7F)
Not a perfect solution, because the console could slide down the column of rubber washers unitl it touched the bottom SS washer. But that shouldn't happen quickly, because the rubber washers are tight to start with inside the mounting hole and the tightened screw compresses the rubber washers even more. It will do for now.
-
I've been looking at the electrical system and the closer I look, the more expensive this project gets. The bike came equipped with the EnDuraLast high output alternator with the Ducati Energia regulator and the Dyna III ignition system with Dynatek coils. Both great upgrades, but installed with not much care. It was also fitted with a 3rd party dash panel, so all the wiring was sliced and diced and taped here too. The result is that there are a LOT of chopped and taped leads. (Insert swear words here.) Two examples below:
(https://i.ibb.co/M6n1cgG/20210813-090043.jpg) (https://ibb.co/M6n1cgG)
(https://i.ibb.co/28YbKpH/20210813-090024.jpg) (https://ibb.co/28YbKpH)
Many of the 38 year old spade lugs and other connectors are severely corroded. The fuse box has elastic bands "tightening" the fuse holders and every one of it's metal parts is coated with crap and corrosion. Garbage.
I'm replacing the dash panel with a T3 style console which requires (again) different wiring. The new (non Guzzi) left and right handlebar switches are internally wired differently from the non originals that are on the bike, so many of the circuits will have to be changed- again. I will add a main relay as well as relays for switching the Low and High beams and for the dual Fiam horns. Rewire the start relay so all the current doesn't go through the start switch.
The plan: Scrap the harness, design and wire a whole new harness.
I started by drawing a schematic of every subsystem like this:
(https://i.ibb.co/CnLS78x/20210819-235712.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CnLS78x)
Then a poster board for the entire wiring diagram:
(https://i.ibb.co/bQQMLx0/20210815-215401.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bQQMLx0)
I took apart the original harness to reuse much of the wiring.
(https://i.ibb.co/KscGhsK/20210816-142441.jpg) (https://ibb.co/KscGhsK)
Another (bad) surprise: I tested the coils and found that one of the Dyna 3 ohm units has an open secondary- it's now a fine paperweight.
(https://i.ibb.co/TTJgPmz/20210819-120940.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TTJgPmz)
The worse part? Everyone sells these coils in PAIRS ONLY. Grumbling, I ordered two new 5 ohm coils. They will get less hot than the 3 ohm ones, and by passing fewer amps the electronics in the control module should run cooler too. Cooler electronics = longer life, in theory anyway.
I'm in the process of wiring. Notice the loop of Hulk-like thick red starter cable? Yes, it's (#4 gauge) overkill. This cable is made of hundreds of fine strands, making it so flexible that it's actually much easier to rout than the original cable. The lower resistance of the large diameter cable means more voltage gets to the starter motor. Plus it's a conversation starter for fellow nerds. To the left of the Ducati regulator/rectifier is a ground stud. Amazing how many things get grounded on a bike. Six wires go to this stud, not including the Ducati R/R , which is grounded directly to the engine.
I have three relays mounted on the fender: Main shut off, Low beam power, high beam power.
(https://i.ibb.co/pZHcX5x/20210819-155657.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pZHcX5x)
Labelling wires like these going to the ignition coils makes for easier troubleshooting: Future Bernie will thank me.
(https://i.ibb.co/52jHrTx/20210819-155643.jpg) (https://ibb.co/52jHrTx)
I'll post more as I progress...
-
Got most of the under tank wiring done. A little luck: A buddy of mine has a nice big molex connector kit box, with lots of pins and multiple sizes of male and female shells. I made up these molex connector pairs- for free! All the wiring on the bike will remain loose and jumbled until I test it.
(https://i.ibb.co/ZX504d2/20210825-173500.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZX504d2)
Ignition switch wired: Only two wires are needed right now, but I wired all four terminals for possible future use.
(https://i.ibb.co/6v7nxMk/20210825-173520.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6v7nxMk)
High tone and low tone Fiam horns roughly in place:
(https://i.ibb.co/qm00fcp/20210825-173710.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qm00fcp)
New automotive (blade style) fuse box has a single input fed by the main relay, so the only current though the ignition switch is the relay coil current.
(https://i.ibb.co/YRLCSXW/20210825-173741.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YRLCSXW)
Main harness is getting thick with wires!
(https://i.ibb.co/4jfzwSg/20210825-173837.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4jfzwSg)
New five ohm coils installed and primary wiring done.
(https://i.ibb.co/DfkWYmB/20210825-174016.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DfkWYmB)
A waterfall of colours, these wires are waiting while I figure out the fitting and wiring of LEDs in the console.
(https://i.ibb.co/5FQq3HZ/20210825-174115.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5FQq3HZ)
-
The console is one of the trickiest parts to wire. First, I decided against using the stock bulb holders. They cost a small fortune. Instead I ordered cheap and bright LED #194 bulbs and cheap sockets for those. LED's are far brighter and should last a near lifetime.
I'm using this instrument panel:
(https://i.ibb.co/WPqRw3v/20210804-141546.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WPqRw3v)
It's made of two black plastic parts, top and bottom, with coloured lenses in between. The two black parts were not rigidly assembled..
Strengthened it with some epoxy:
(https://i.ibb.co/5KBc9q0/20210804-141902.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5KBc9q0)
(https://i.ibb.co/TtqVFYX/20210804-141805.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TtqVFYX)
Carved the holes round with an exacto knife and sanded the top (Ok bottom) surfaces for better adhesive grip.
(https://i.ibb.co/6ZDx41B/20210826-173946.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6ZDx41B)
I used these LED bulbs and sockets:
(https://i.ibb.co/n124Jzp/20210826-163741.jpg) (https://ibb.co/n124Jzp)
They come in red, blue and green and are SUPER bright. They are rated to be used with 12 Volts, but I used 1K ohm resistors to dim the Neutral, Hi beam and Park lights. Otherwise, they would be a little too distracting.
The bulbs fit the holes very snuggly, so I glued the sockets with hot glue. Just strong enough to keep them in place, but easy to scrape off if the LED's ever need to be replaced.
(https://i.ibb.co/MZ6bjD4/20210826-175046.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MZ6bjD4)
A nine pin Molex socket fits nicely in the (sort of) rectangular hole with only a bit of file work. The nine pins are enough for the eight lights plus a 12 volt wire. The ground wire will connect with a spade type connector to the grounds for the front signals and instrument lights. And the ground wire going back to the frame.
(https://i.ibb.co/K20mFZ5/20210826-200431.jpg) (https://ibb.co/K20mFZ5)
Also drilled a hole for the odometer reset cable. (Brass tube.) Took me a while to figure out how to line up the hole precisely with the reset shaft on the speedo.
(https://i.ibb.co/2kVdBX3/20210826-210924.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2kVdBX3)
-
Are the horns on a custom bracket?
Can't wait to see the console nighttime shot! :bow:
-
Funny you should ask, because I'm not happy with the mounting situation. The Two Fiam horns each came with a flat steel mounting strip, holes drilled at each end.
(https://i.ibb.co/NZn6SLw/Fiam-horn-kit.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NZn6SLw)
The idea being the stud on the back of the horn goes through one hole of the strip, secured by the supplied nut and you mount the other end of the strip to your car or bike. I have both strips mounted to a single tab on the frame with a single bolt through both strips. Not the best, because there is nothing to keep the strips from swinging around the mounting bolt except the friction of the tightened bolt. The two strips are horizontal, so the mass of the horns bouncing up and down will almost certainly work the strips loose. I may fab or modify something to make the horn mounts a bit more secure. Maybe swing the strips down a little to form an upside down "vee" and then bolt a fabbed third strip to the two horn studs to make a steel strip triangle.
Or maybe chuck the original mounting strips and use clamps like this one, around the frame's cross tube.
(https://i.ibb.co/dp14TsZ/wire-clamp.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dp14TsZ)
-
Real nice workmanship! looking forward to seeing the bike back together. :thumb:
-
FYI, if you ever need to look for those kinds of clamps, they are called Adel (aka ms21919) clamps. Aircraft Spruce is a good source for them.
-
FYI, if you ever need to look for those kinds of clamps, they are called Adel (aka ms21919) clamps. Aircraft Spruce is a good source for them.
Thanks, I'll check them out.
-
The wiring is done and tested. I found only a couple of goofs: I couldn't get the starter solenoid to clunk because I had installed the solenoid upside down! Took a bit of head scratching before I realized what the problem was. And because of a wiring change I mistakenly wired a ground to the horn relay coil instead of power. Easy to spot and correct - and once done, the pair of horns startled me, they are SO loud. (A good thing.)
The bottom of the finished instrument panel: Though I use brown for all grounds, the sharp eyed will spot the black wire sneaking into the panel- it provides ground for four of the indicator lights. The nine pin Molex connector fits into the original console hole after a little file work on the hole edges. The arcing black cable is part of odometer reset knob assembly. I drilled one exactly cable sized hole for the cable to enter and mate with the speedo reset mechanism and a second hole to match the location of the left hole in the mounting bracket. Though you can't tell in this pic the knob looks like it belongs there!
(https://i.ibb.co/B4dMRzC/20210830-195850.jpg) (https://ibb.co/B4dMRzC)
I used a non Guzzi fuse holder with modern blade style fuses. The main relay supplies voltage to a single pole which feeds the six fuses. Fuse #6 isn't used right now, it's reserved for auxiliary stuff like a powering a cell phone. At the top right you can see the square black electronic load independent flasher relay. This type flasher will blink any type or number of bulbs at the same rate, so I need only the single unit to power my left /right turn signals or all four signals with the hazard switch.
(https://i.ibb.co/t4XWSh2/20210907-232354.jpg) (https://ibb.co/t4XWSh2)
A slightly blurry photo with most of the instrument panel LEDs on: The camera doesn't quite capture the saturation of the colours, especially the red , which looks washed out in this pic. The LED's colours are actually very intense and attractive.
(https://i.ibb.co/WBC3Vgw/20210907-232544.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WBC3Vgw)
-
Bernie's budget beast boasts brakes! (Couldn't help myself.)
Man, I hate bleeding brakes. I always make a mess.
The front master cylinder and caliper was pretty straightforward- once I realized that the throttle assembly was preventing full swing of the brake lever:
(https://i.ibb.co/wQs6z39/20210911-164540.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wQs6z39)
Once the throttle was removed (Thankfully, the carburettors aren't installed yet.) it was easy peasy. Using the apply brake, loosen bleeder, tighten bleeder, release brake for a second and repeat method, I spilled only a few drops on the wheel rim and the floor when removing the bleed line at the caliper.
The integrated brake system was another story.
Using the same method, I bled the brake pressure regulator, the front caliper and then the rear caliper. Hung the front caliper way up so that it's brake line was sloped upwards to the caliper and had the bleed bottle on a ladder:
(https://i.ibb.co/tpG5B92/20210909-160507.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tpG5B92)
Detached the rear caliper and again oriented it to have the bubbles rise up to the bleed screw.
(https://i.ibb.co/jvqQ6Pv/20210909-172356.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jvqQ6Pv)
Got plenty of fluid through.
But the brake lever was spongy and worse, once I had it pumped up it would slowly sink under constant pressure.
Then I noticed a drip from the brake regulator. Removing the top rubber cover:
(https://i.ibb.co/MNVjzVM/20210909-091829.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MNVjzVM)
How did the circlip come loose?
I removed the regulator to find out what had happened. More drips from the disconnected brake lines.
I couldn't see anything wrong, so I decided to replace both internal o-rings. I carefully measured the groove diameters, ODs and the thickness of the o-rings, made a sketch of the dimensions, and then cleaned and bagged the relevant parts to bring to the parts counter of my friendly neighborhood bearing seller. They are always helpful, but it might be tough finding the correct size. Five minutes after entering the place, I had the 0-rings in my hands. General Bearing Service in Ottawa is the best.
Reinstalled the regulator bled everything again and crap. The brake lever still fell with constant pressure. I've seen this before and it's always a bad master cylinder. Was the rebuild kit I used bad? Did I miss seeing a scratch in the master cylinder bore? It had been a long day, I was fed up, so I went on to the MG Cycle site and went to order a new master cylinder. Double crap. "This part is out of stock. We'll let you know when...".
The next day, I decided to bench test the master cylinder with an old brake line connected to it, pinched shut by locking pliers.
(https://i.ibb.co/hmVv8C6/20210911-150457.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hmVv8C6)
And it was fine! WTF?
I researched a bit more- it looks like reverse bleeding could be the solution. Connect a syringe of brake fluid to each caliper in turn and bleed fluid out of the regulator bleed screw. But what a mess. Brake fluid dribbling out around the caliper bleeders, brake fluid sprayed because I forgot to release the syringe pressure before disconnecting it and holy cow, brake fluid overflowing out of the rear master cylinder!
Anyway, it worked. Let's just say my experience would have made a great advertisement for paper towels. And kitty litter. The Guzzi can now stop. Hopefully soon, it will be able to go.
(https://i.ibb.co/st53wQK/20210911-164251.jpg) (https://ibb.co/st53wQK)
Thanks Charlie, (Antietam Classic Cycle) for the caliper pin!
-
Sometimes the simplest things end up taking the longest time.
The tach cable that came with the bike was too long- I tried routing it in different ways but to no avail.
I ordered a cable specified for the 850 T3 from MG cycle. The new cable was the same length as the one I had!
Online are a couple of videos showing how to shorten a tach/speedo cable and then stamping the end square using a press and a custom die, but I don't have a milling machine, so that was out. Putting out a call to fellow WildGuzziers, Ron (n3303j) suggested to cut, silver solder the fresh end and file it square.
So I bought a couple of sticks of flux coated silver solder for $10 (A lifetime supply probably.) and cut 2" off the inner and outer cable:
(https://i.ibb.co/8B8xdX5/20211007-170019.jpg) (https://ibb.co/8B8xdX5)
Set up the inner cable for soldering: (Cleaned it beforehand.)
(https://i.ibb.co/FbkCpQd/20211006-124013.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FbkCpQd)
And then managed to get an oversized blob of solder on the end. Thankfully it files fairly easily:
(https://i.ibb.co/WzNxNyD/20211007-164932.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WzNxNyD)
The "new" cable fits just right.
(https://i.ibb.co/4pGGSN2/P1070575.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4pGGSN2)
-
She lives! After a long delay due to U.S/ Canada border closures and other distractions, I've moved forward with the project.
I pried open my wallet and ordered a mid frame side stand kit. Even though the seller warns about possibly needed mods and bolts, it was an easy install on this bike.
(https://i.ibb.co/HFsWGgz/P1070646.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HFsWGgz)
It doesn’t bang on the bottom of the exhaust when retracted because of a stop at the pivot and it is nicely tucked underneath.
(https://i.ibb.co/9NJxJ45/P1070649.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9NJxJ45)
The 8mm thick stand plate mounts with two bolts.
(https://i.ibb.co/5xjCR7D/P1070653.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5xjCR7D)
It's possible to reuse the original very long transmission bolt by replacing the the two flat washers and one lock washers (About 7mm thickness total.) with two thin spring type washers.
Locktited the nut. Believe or not there is an (extremely thin) washer under there. Scrapes on the frame paint are nothing that a fine paint brush and some Tremclad won't cure.
(https://i.ibb.co/CHpvfMh/P1070655.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CHpvfMh)
The center stand swivel bolt had to be replaced with (a golden) one 10mm longer.
(https://i.ibb.co/xq5B9DM/P1070654.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xq5B9DM)
instagram image video download (https://500pxdownload.com/)
I was thinking about chroming the black headlight rim, but the local cost...$300?!?! Fuhgettaboutit. There are some chrome paints out there that do a reasonably nice job, but they require a spray gun set up, which I don’t have. I was about to respray it black, when I came upon a car modeller’s video about Rustoleum’s line of metallic paints. This one is called carbon mist and I like it.
(https://i.ibb.co/SQCZm6C/20220525-182308.jpg) (https://ibb.co/SQCZm6C)
instagram video stealer (https://500pxdownload.com/)
(https://i.ibb.co/CmRL0Sd/P1070644.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CmRL0Sd)
instagram albüm indirme (https://500pxdownload.com/)
A cable clamp makes for a neat way to rout and secure the clutch cable.
(https://i.ibb.co/LZmNbzZ/P1070614.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LZmNbzZ)
Treated the blue beast to a new steering head badge:
(https://i.ibb.co/H4WMM0b/20220508-171241.jpg) (https://ibb.co/H4WMM0b)
The last major project was dealing with left side cover. With the Delrin intake manifolds, the Dellortos are not angled inwards nearly as much as stock. Not a problem with the slightly more forward right cylinder, but the left carb and air filter prevent the left side cover from fitting. I didn’t want to cut a visible part of the just painted cover to fit. Instead I decided to shift the side cover mounting points about 20mm rearward.
But moving the side cover rearward creates another problem. The high tension wires exit the coils towards the outside, that is towards the inside of the left side cover.
(https://i.ibb.co/kM7Rdnr/20210825-174016.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kM7Rdnr)
The wires just clear the inside of the cover in it’s original position. But with the cover moved rearward, the left coil's high tension wire press very hard against the inside of the side cover which is indented behind the faux intake grill. Not acceptable. So the coils had to be remounted.
The two side cover upper mounts are part of a bracket.
That bracket now looks like Swiss cheese after two different coil mounting attempts, er, I mean I'm lightening it for performance, right?
(https://i.ibb.co/qgDhGs1/P1070615.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qgDhGs1)
The left side of the bracket would normally bolt to this frame tab.
(https://i.ibb.co/bvbrZwY/20220515-172531.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bvbrZwY)
Because I'm moving the bracket rearwards (to the right in this photo.) , the bracket will now butt up against the tab which has been slightly modified:
(https://i.ibb.co/BBSxPpq/20220517-130431.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BBSxPpq)
From aluminum angle I cut four mounting brackets for the coils. And fabbed two steel brackets from some steel sheet I had in the garage. (painted black) The rectangular one is for mounting the side cover upper mount bracket.
(https://i.ibb.co/Kqmdy7v/P1070611.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Kqmdy7v)
The triangular one is for shifting the side cover's lower mounting pin rearwards. Here it is installed. The pin was originally mounted where the allen head screw is. You see where I ground a semicircular section out of the frame tab for clearance at the pin's new location.
(https://i.ibb.co/sqR1Fkf/P1070616.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sqR1Fkf)
The finished product:
(https://i.ibb.co/c86cXCJ/P1070620.jpg) (https://ibb.co/c86cXCJ)
Here you can see the fabbed rectangular painted bracket bridging the upper mount bracket and the frame tab. (Behind the left coil's upper aluminum bracket.)
(https://i.ibb.co/ZVRVRB9/P1070618.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZVRVRB9)
I offset the right coil outwards so that the crossed high tension wires don’t touch. Yes, it would have been a lot easier to just cut away the side cover!
I snapped three of these throttle tubes while installing and removing the tank several times. I finally realized that the throttle cables need to be routed under the frame tubes. (Hey, the bike had been apart for a long time.)
(https://i.ibb.co/8Npsv29/P1070656.jpg) (https://ibb.co/8Npsv29)
There was one more minor issue. The choke lever wouldn’t stay up. I’m not sure if this particular choke lever was intended to be this way, but out came a file and I profiled the bottom curve of the lever so that it would stay “choked”
(https://i.ibb.co/Nxg5Mqf/20220508-171309.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Nxg5Mqf)
Also ordered a small fairing more as a sun shade for the near horizontal instruments than anything else.
(https://i.ibb.co/hKkvzNK/P1070650.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hKkvzNK)
Finally! Yesterday I took it out for short test ride, up and down my block. It started promptly, courtesy of a new battery and settled down to a steady idle in short order. I gingerly let out the clutch, aware of the all the “on-off” issues that people have brought up with “Sureflex” brand clutch plates. But it was a smooth engagement. The bike shifted nicely up and down to third gear. And the engine sounds great- a nice V- twin rumble with a hint of the Moto Guzzi top end clatter.
(https://i.ibb.co/BKySsn7/P1070651.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BKySsn7)
indian flag gif images (https://imgbb.com/)
(https://i.ibb.co/2qNGW1H/P1070652.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2qNGW1H)
After a safety check and license plate and insurance it will be ready for it’s shake down cruise!
(https://i.ibb.co/WzqYTFG/P1070657.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WzqYTFG)
(https://i.ibb.co/VSTM7H2/P1070658.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VSTM7H2)
-
:thumb: :thumb:
-
Very nice job, it looks fantastic :thumb:
-
Very nice job, it looks fantastic :thumb:
Thanks! Though I've been playing with bikes and cars most of my life, this is my first Moto Guzzi. I've spent many enjoyable hours learning about Guzzis from reading posts in this forum.
-
Thanks! Though I've been playing with bikes and cars most of my life, this is my first Moto Guzzi. I've spent many enjoyable hours learning about Guzzis from reading posts in this forum.
Outstanding job, Bernie!
What you did with that SP closely resembles what I did with mine over the 20 years I have owned it. I wanted to upgrade the fuse box and wiring like you did, but never got around to it before I sold it.
I did install the mid mount stand and rearranged the gages with the same pod you used though. I relocated the left side cover 1" back to allow more clearance for the K&N pod.
-
Though the tires on the bike are far from worn out, looking at the date codes gave me pause:
Back tire 13 years old:
(https://i.ibb.co/gdYNPtL/P1070706.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gdYNPtL)
Front tire 15 years old!:
(https://i.ibb.co/mh28psp/P1070705.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mh28psp)
(The last pair of numbers in the string of characters after DOT is the year of manufacture.)
Several WildGuzzi members are happy with Shinko tires. So I put on a pair of Shinko 712.
Using my custom made wheel balancer:
(https://i.ibb.co/TbNcgBg/P1070702.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TbNcgBg)
Here is how it is used:
(https://i.ibb.co/D4SYJPF/P1070704.jpg) (https://ibb.co/D4SYJPF)
The wheel is on it's own axle. The orbital sander is applied to the end of the axle to induce vibration, which breaks the static friction and allows for very accurate balancing. I played with 1/4 Oz (7 gram) weights and had very repeatable results. Of course your wheel bearings need to be in reasonably good condition, with no brinneling.
Now to put a hundred easy miles and parking lot figure eights on these tires to wear off the slick coating!