Small block rear wheel removal

[matt franklin]

Working on my son's 2009 V7 Classic.  First time working on a small block.  Can the rear wheel be removed without first removing the caliper anchor pin   that's screwed into the left side of the swing arm?

[faffi]

I have not worked on the V7, but I cannot see a way to remove the wheel without first removing the caliper.

[Dirk_S]

I don’t see how, either—keep in mind you’re pulling the wheel off the hub first before pulling it back and out.

[Kev m]

I don't understand the WHY - but I assume there is a way.

I mean as Dirk said, I usually remove/reposition the caliper so there is room to pull the WHEEL HUB off the REAR DRIVE with a little lateral movement to the left.

But once in a while Guzzi people get strange and do things differently for obtuse reasons. Some people will unbolt the rear drive and remove it WITH the wheel. I believe if you have clearance with the fender for wheel removal that might allow you to leave the caliper in place. I used that removal method once, but I honestly don't recall if I still removed the caliper that time.

[Dirk_S]

…Some people will unbolt the rear drive and remove it WITH the wheel. I believe if you have clearance with the fender for wheel removal that might allow you to leave the caliper in place. I used that removal method once, but I honestly don't recall if I still removed the caliper that time.

Completely forgot about that process. I can see the merit to that technique if one doesn’t have a center stand and wants to do the job with the bike on its side stand and a lil’ jack or block of wood propping the swingarm. Otherwise, you’re dealing with the nosy intrusion of gravity making it an absolute bear to get the wheel back onto the splines of the final drive (the other option for non-center stand bikes is laying the bike down on its right side, but that’s fingernails to a chalkboard for some people’s brains—not least of which the fact that you’d have to remove that stinkin’ caliper!)

[matt franklin]

Not sure how I feel about being called "strange" and "obtuse" - but then i remembered that as Guzzisti, those appellations likely apply to us all!

Of course the caliper needs to be removed to remove the rear wheel. 

But the problem is the ANCHOR PIN that keeps the caliper from spinning with the wheel - does that need to come out of the swing arm to do it? 

Because that pin is stuck tight.  Rattle gun won't loosen it, and heating it is problematic, because it's a steel pin stuck in a giant aluminum heat sink (the swing arm).  Maybe I need a bigger torch? 

But before I get crazy with it, I thought I'd see if I could just leave it in place and still get the wheel off.  The shop manual shows pin removal as a step in removing the rear wheel.

So, has anybody been successful removing the rear wheel without removing that pin?

[Dirk_S]

Matt, the stud doesn’t have to come completely out, just enough that the end is close to flush with the inside of the swingarm so the caliper sides off. I could be wrong, but I think that retaining bolt calls for blue Loctite. Hopefully it’s just old crud and they didn’t use red. Instead of heat, you could try freezing the steel pin with canned air turned upside down. Or you could spray that stud with some penetrant, and while it’s going to town just remove the final drive via the 4 acorn nuts as Kev pointed out. It’s an easy removal process (be mindful of the spring and stop plate inside the coupler when pulling the final drive off)

[Kev m]

Not sure how I feel about being called "strange" and "obtuse" - but then i remembered that as Guzzisti, those appellations likely apply to us all!

Of course the caliper needs to be removed to remove the rear wheel. 

But the problem is the ANCHOR PIN that keeps the caliper from spinning with the wheel - does that need to come out of the swing arm to do it? 

Because that pin is stuck tight.  Rattle gun won't loosen it, and heating it is problematic, because it's a steel pin stuck in a giant aluminum heat sink (the swing arm).  Maybe I need a bigger torch? 

But before I get crazy with it, I thought I'd see if I could just leave it in place and still get the wheel off.  The shop manual shows pin removal as a step in removing the rear wheel.

So, has anybody been successful removing the rear wheel without removing that pin?

Have you tried heating it yet? It's either corrosion or more likely Loctite.

[faffi]

This topic got me thinking- how often should the shaft drive splines be greased?

[jcctx]

This thread makes sealed chain drive look REEEEALLY good?????

[brother dave]

...But once in a while Guzzi people get strange and do things differently for obtuse reasons...

One of the things I like about Guzzi people.

[sign216]

I wrote a guide to spine lube that might be helpful, esp. since the donor bike is an '09 V7, just like the orig. poster.
To get the text to each photo, double-click on each photo.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/sign216/albums/72157625569987011/

[Vagrant]

I doubt you will do it without pin removal. Even if you did, getting the rubbers lined up will turn you into an alcoholic!
On my 20 v85 it was in so tight that I actually broke the Allen wrench off using a 1/2" breaker bar and a 3 foot leverage bar. All I had to do was hit it with a torch for a few seconds from the back (right) side. It broke loose instantly. FYI, no signs of rust or lock tight were seen.

[matt franklin]

Thanks for all the helpful replies, guys.  Kev, yes I had a propane plumber's torch on it for about ten minutes until I was afraid of cooking the finish off the swingarm.  Beat on it with both pneumatic and hand impact drivers.  Kroil.  I can't budge it, and I don't want to break anything.  I like the suggestion about taking the drivebox off with the wheel.  I think I will try that.  After the swingarm is off I'll take another run at this pin.  Maybe clamp the allen wrench in my bench vise and crank on the swing arm or something.  I was trying to get into the clutch, but stalled out with this pin business.

[Muzz]

Certainly on the Breva that pin must be removed.

Faffi., I clean and lube the splines every time I put a new rear tire on. Easier if you take the whole drive out at the same time. Easier to fit the cush blocks too.

[Vagrant]

Did you have the torch on the inside or outside?

[matt franklin]

I applied heat to the left end of the pin.  With everything in place, there's no access to the right end.  There's also a brake hose and a wire to the speed sensor right there, so care is required so as to not cook those.

[John A]

Can you post a pic of it? I’m having trouble remembering it and my small block is in winter storage yet.

[Dirk_S]

FYI, no signs of rust or lock tight were seen.

Galvanic corrosion then, perhaps? Steel bolt into aluminum swingarm…

[faffi]

Faffi., I clean and lube the splines every time I put a new rear tire on. Easier if you take the whole drive out at the same time. Easier to fit the cush blocks too.

Thank you

[Vagrant]

It's a 2009 so the tire has to have been off by now. Possibly somebody flooded it with red lock tight and didn't coat it with anti-seise.
But, you are on the wrong side and heat on the left won't get through to the right (small side) of the pin from there. On my 16 Stone the pin is just ahead of the rotor. The brake lines are well below the swing arm.
Come in from the tire side! Because it's stuck I'd have a long punch ready to hit the right side of the pin once hot and a long breaker bar on a HIGH quality allen wrench.  That should break it loose.
FYI, it's a very hard steel pin in what is most likley a Magnesium housing so could be very corrouded too.

[matt franklin]

OK, I got the wheel off.  I removed the caliper from the caliper bracket, and unbolted the drive box from the swingarm,  and it came out after I let some air out of the tire.  Now I can get some real heat on the exposed pin.  It'll get some never seez going back in.

[Muzz]

It has a very fine thread Matt.