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It feels like the same clearance an intake valve would have.Should I bother regreasing or is this too much play?
On further inspection I discovered the most play was actually side to side on the gearbox yoke side- between the end cap and its circlip. Maybe it was replaced/serviced and someone reefed on it in when reassembling? The driveshaft yoke's bearing surfaces were dry and and a bit marred though I couldn't feel any surface imperfections. Charlie from Antietam Classic Cycle said he successfully used http://www.theujointstore.com/tus1m1.html as a replacement. It's suspiciously cheap at $28 but I'll give it a go :-)jim
On further inspection I discovered the most play was actually side to side on the gearbox yoke side- between the end cap and its circlip. Maybe it was replaced/serviced and someone reefed on it in when reassembling?The driveshaft yoke's bearing surfaces were dry and and a bit marred though I couldn't feel any surface imperfections.Charlie from Antietam Classic Cycle said he successfully used http://www.theujointstore.com/tus1m1.html as a replacement. It's suspiciously cheap at $28 but I'll give it a go :-)jim
Hey Jim, I see the only specs on the TUS-1MG are 20x44mm.That website shows two different sizes available.Is that width/length, caps diameter?Is that what your cross measures? Just wondering how to identify what I need on a similar bike?.
The ujointstore.com part came in today, and while the size is correct (44mm end to end), the caps aren't as deep as the original, meaning there is less bearing. I don't like it one bit but maybe I'm overreacting? Charlie, were the ones you used from them similarly shortened? I'm surprised this measurement isn't part of the spec. jim
The rubber seal covers part of the bearing, the needles are the same length - at least they were on the ones I've installed. I did need to reuse the old circlips in order for them to fit.