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If you have 12v at the starter motor and it doesn't spin then that's your problem. Could be brushes or windings?
Do you have at least 12V at the starter solenoid when you hit the start button? Do you hear the starter solenoid click, or just the starter relay?If you hear the solenoid click, then you are getting power to it. You could then try giving the starter a good rap on the side of it with a hammer while trying to crank it.If you don't hear the solenoid click, (Warning....Make Sure Bike Is In Neutral!!!) you could take a wire about 14ga and touch the positive battery terminal with one end and the other end to the starter solenoid connector. Still no click, could be a bad starter?You have 2 issues going on. It wont crank and it stalls. They may be related to each other. The starter could be good, but you have a bad ground from the battery negative to the engine or frame.Let us know about the voltage and click.Tom
It looks like your getting somewhere at least on the cranking issue. A rap or two to the solenoid and it at least spun the starter.Without knowing your exact starter, you may be able to get a solenoid. You might check to see if you have a starter and generator repair place near you. They might be able to tell you whats wrong and how much to fix it. A starter for a big block for instance can be had on the rain forest for about $80, just to give you a price reference. Heck, you might be able to tear down your solenoid and clean it?? A Bosch solenoid for instance can be opened up and cleaned.But.... Before we go to the above. Could the rap with a hammer be shaking a corroded or loose wire???????? Might look for a corroded or loose ground wire. Look for a wire that looks white and puffy near the connector. Also might loosen the starter mounting bolts, wiggle the starter and tighten the bolts. Sometimes it's that simple??Tom
EDIT... I put the cart before the horse I think...... You said you have the starter fully disassembled I believe. I would clean it all up especially the copper on the armature where the brushes ride. Some fine sandpaper will clean this up as well as the contact area of the brushes. When you reassemble, make sure the brushes are being help firmly by the springs to the armature. Then.........You can take a known good battery and automotive class jumper cables and try to spin the starter with the starter removed from the bike. Hook the cable from battery negative to the mounting flange of the stater. Hook the positive cable to the battery and touch it to the large wire that enters the starter. This should make it spin. You can also check the solenoid and starter the same way. The difference would be that you connect the positive to the lug on the solenoid, the one the bike battery is connected to, and then take a screwdriver or the like to go from the cable to the little start wire tab on the solenoid. This will show that both work or not.The starter may jump around a bit. Best to test with it clamped in a vice. Lacking the vise, just be ready for it to move a bit. Testing it this way also eliminates any issues with wires on the bike. If it doesn't sound like it spinning like a banshee, but just slowly turning then it is most likely bad.If it fails, take a do a search on fleabay or the rain forest for a starter. You should be able to find one for about $80 or so. As I mentioned, you could also check for a re builder in your area to make sure it's bad. If you don't mind a used one, give Mark at Moto Guzzi Classics a call, he might have one.Tom
Brushes, check your starter model number and look at the pic, if not the right one, search there. Euro Moto Electrics can be your friend for odd electric parts.https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/val-brushes.htm>> Yes ! >> This is the brushes that would fit/was looking for,>> *out of stock* unfortunately. And from Stein Dinse for comparison, look at the models it fits:https://www.stein-dinse.biz/product_info.php?language=sc&products_id=22757And a complete starter, no idea of the quality, check your fitment:https://www.amazon.com/STARTER-MOTOR-2007-2008-30730710-LRS01550/dp/B013SG8WCUTom
Unrelated, and hope the OP gets this sorted, but what would cause the Hazard warning switch light to stay lit?
But....You have made it work for now, but you really new to search out a new set of brushes. Google the starter brand and part number and include brushes. I found a few places that sell them.Install your solenoid. Make sure that the whole thing works. You may end up needing a solenoid as well. Might as well get both at the same time...........PROV IDED you need both.Hopefully this will get it cranking reliably. Then move on to solve your running issue!Tom
I was thinking about your charging voltage. I think it's a little low. I think it S/B about 14 - 14.5V.>> I don't think I have ever seen voltage in the range of 14 - 14.5V on this bike.So, this may be the problem.The low voltage could be just normal or it could be an issue. You could check the wire connectors to the regulator and clean them. Could help?>> Ok. Will try to check/clean those wires.Something to think about. Let's say it's not charging enough to keep up with the usage. The bike could cut out due to a low battery. There is an odd thing about, at least some, automotive style batteries. If you ran a battery down trying to get something to start, then let the battery rest. Many times you can get it to give a good crank again after letting it rest for let's just say 20 minutes.This is sorta like your description of when your bike stalled and wouldn't crank. Low battery, let sit, starts then it runs out of enough battery power and stalls again. If the battery was getting a good charge while the engine was running, it wouldn't run out of enough power to at least power the ignition system.>> Yup. Except that now it has a cleaned up starter with brushes with good contact, so even with low battery it is able to crank/keep running, I think.But def. want to check on voltage regulator situation..You have at least overcome the crank issue!! On to the running issue!!>> Yes, it was some work, but kind of worth it. It was hard to decide to try repair or just buy a new one. Thanks.Tom
I was thinking about your charging voltage. I think it's a little low. I think it S/B about 14 - 14.5V.The low voltage could be just normal or it could be an issue. You could check the wire connectors to the regulator and clean them. Could help?Something to think about. Let's say it's not charging enough to keep up with the usage. The bike could cut out due to a low battery. There is an odd thing about, at least some, automotive style batteries. If you ran a battery down trying to get something to start, then let the battery rest. Many times you can get it to give a good crank again after letting it rest for let's just say 20 minutes.This is sorta like your description of when your bike stalled and wouldn't crank. Low battery, let sit, starts then it runs out of enough battery power and stalls again. If the battery was getting a good charge while the engine was running, it wouldn't run out of enough power to at least power the ignition system.You have at least overcome the crank issue!! On to the running issue!!Tom
I think the combination of high resistance in the start circuit along with short trips with multiple starts was pulling the battery down faster than it could recharge. It becomes a vicious cycle as cranking a starter on low voltage will cause excessive arcing at the brushes and ever increasing resistance in the circuit due to carbon build up on the armature and the brush keepers. When the battery reserves drop below where the charging system can compensate at idle the bike quits. A tender is your friend with occasional use or short trips. Good work men!