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I’ve owned an 08 1200 Sport since 2013 and it too only starts in neutral (The same problem) I’d like to fix it also so it starts in any gear with the clutch pulled in. Could you tell me where the ECU is located on my bike so I could look into fixing that? Should be the same as a Norge. Or can you show a picture of the ECU with its location? Thanks
There is a plastic cover over it or in front of it, under it between front frame down tubes under steering stem, both harness plugs are a pain to get off. Best to undo tiewraps holding harness on both sides.
Do I have to remove the gas tank to get to the ECU?
Not yet I should mention that since I am 250 miles from the closest dealer I intend to do all the maintenance myself. The R1150GS has never seen the inside of a BMW service bay.
Here you go…Remove the seat.
Thanks, with your encouragement I will try it tomorrow. Any idea about the torque settings for the nuts?
After 5 years I finally installed the Beatle map on my Norge last fall. Dumbest thing I ever did was to wait 5 years to do it. 1
I have taken the advice of the forum and purchased the map, the cables, and downloaded all the software. Tomorrow I intend to do the tappets and replace the spark plugs ($20 for a spark plug?). Then when the cables come in I'll remap.
That is admirable..If you decide to learn how to balance your throttle bodies, make sure you are aware of which screw to turn and the correct procedure.For your own sake, let us know before you commence the process.Suffice to say..The left TB is set at the factory to flow a certain amount of air.The balance process involves closing BOTH air screws and setting the right butterfly to the left one @ 3,000 rpm and then, opening ONE of the air bleeds to get the idle right @ 1,200 rpm.A home made manometer will suffice.
I hope it’s not too late to tell you, but before you remove the inner plug/s, blow around the area with compressed air.More than once there have been little stones in the vicinity of the plug base..You don’t want any toppling into the cylinder with the plug out…!
Good advice, I'm on my way to pick up the spark plugs at O'Rileys.
The tube spanner required to get the inner plugs out is a thin walled item. Quite specific.
Saturday I was able to check the tappets, take off the tank, change the inner spark plugs and the air filter. The gas filter is of the old style, and the plastic is quite swollen. I am glad for the advice to check it.Two problems. First, while I was trying to remove the gas line from the tank I knocked the tank off the bike, which broke the red fuel connector. I have to find another one.Second, the right side spark plug boot was impossible to get off. Not much room for a lot of grip. Finally I went down and bought a pair of boot pliers. That pulled it off nicely. Then discovered the real problem. The cap was welded to the electrode, and pulling the boot off, pulled off the cap, which was stuck to the terminal nut. It took considerable work to get the cap off the nut, and sure enough there was a spot-weld mark on the terminal. I have never seen that before. I need to investigate how to fix this.
[Might not be a bad idea to get a new set of spark plug wires...Thanks. Can I take this as hopeful news that the coil assembly is separate from the spark plug wires? So I don't have to buy a new coil?
Might not be a bad idea to get a new set of spark plug wires...
Maybe I missed something but why change the spark plug wires?
From Kaladin's description above: Second, the right side spark plug boot was impossible to get off. Not much room for a lot of grip. Finally I went down and bought a pair of boot pliers. That pulled it off nicely. Then discovered the real problem. The cap was welded to the electrode, and pulling the boot off, pulled off the cap, which was stuck to the terminal nut. It took considerable work to get the cap off the nut, and sure enough there was a spot-weld mark on the terminal. I have never seen that before. I need to investigate how to fix this.