Author Topic: Nut spec needed (Read 7985 times)

kevdog3019 · « **on:** May 16, 2015, 12:55:45 PM »

Anyone know the V65 (likely all sb's) socket spec for the trans nut that "RatGuzzi" had let go on his B750? We're going in after my seals next week on the Lario and want to be ready for the task on that bugger.
Thanks much!

RinkRat II · « **Reply #1 on:** May 16, 2015, 02:13:08 PM »

I believe JB said it was 36mm.... I'll gander through Guzziology fer ya..

Paul :BEER:

rodekyll · « **Reply #2 on:** May 16, 2015, 04:53:59 PM »

I'll once again offer that a $20 set of double-ended plumbers sockets gives you all those big sizes in torque-capable materials for very little money. If you find yourself in the big sizes and the need to get the sockets over long shafts, it's a very guzzisti solution.

Muzz · « **Reply #3 on:** May 16, 2015, 05:11:31 PM »

Luigi used 10 million ft/lbs I believe. ::) ::) ::)

All joking aside,,160 ft/lbs springs to mind. We just did it up flippin tight!

Wildguzzi.com · « **Reply #3 on:** May 16, 2015, 05:11:31 PM »

Vasco DG · « **Reply #4 on:** May 16, 2015, 05:29:48 PM »

Is it a LH thread? If so its almost certainly a 24mm as used on the front of the five speed output shaft on the big blocks. I haven't been into a Smallblock box for years.

As for torque? "Till you fart" tight with some red Loctite for good measure and stake it well!

Pete

kevdog3019 · « **Reply #5 on:** May 16, 2015, 06:18:04 PM »

Quote from: Vasco DG on May 16, 2015, 05:29:48 PM

Is it a LH thread? If so its almost certainly a 24mm as used on the front of the five speed output shaft on the big blocks. I haven't been into a Smallblock box for years.

As for torque? "Till you fart" tight with some red Loctite for good measure and stake it well!

Pete

24mm would be convenient! I love the "farting" spec. as I think that's about right. ;-T. Will have to dig into these specs a little more as 82 and 160 vs. farting are substantially different. :BEER:
Thanks gents.

Muzz · « **Reply #6 on:** May 16, 2015, 06:53:54 PM »

Quote from: kevdog3019 on May 16, 2015, 06:18:04 PM

24mm would be convenient! I love the "farting" spec. as I think that's about right. ;-T. Will have to dig into these specs a little more as 82 and 160 vs. farting are substantially different. :BEER:
Thanks gents.

160 and farting are actually quite similar.

After coffee I will go out to the garage and see if the socket size is still on the socket that my old boss made the genuine Guzzi nut removing tool with. (Cheap- Guzzi content) ;)

You will need a spline tool to Kev, although the first time my old boss undid the nut using soft jaws in his very large workshop vice.

kevdog3019 · « **Reply #7 on:** May 16, 2015, 07:12:20 PM »

That would be awesome for confirmation on the nut size. My mechanic friend (Guzzi content) is well aware of this nut as he's pulled plenty of BB Guzzi's. We just want to make sure of this so that we don't have to run out for a new socket day of surgery.
Thank you much.

Muzz · « **Reply #8 on:** May 16, 2015, 10:18:55 PM »

Kev, the nut I am referring to must be around 34-36mm. It is a big sucker. My boss cut the socket down, so now unfortunately there is no number on it. He then welded an extension on the side and then attached it to an offset handle to clear the bell housing. He of course was needing to hold the shaft in the vice, but even a spline tool needs the top of the socket open.

I looked up Stein Dintz but all they say is "nut" and don't give the size. As Steamdriven and myself found, the shaft on his Monza box is smaller than on the Breva so the spline tool is not the same on all smallblocks. However, going on Stein Dintz's part numbers, the Lario is the same as the Breva. We made the tool from an old burnt out clutch that Pete Roper sent over for us. ;-T As I have said before, without this site I would be dead in the water.

ratguzzi · « **Reply #9 on:** May 17, 2015, 06:56:12 AM »

I'm going with 22mm.
JB

kevdog3019 · « **Reply #10 on:** May 17, 2015, 12:05:15 PM »

Great, thanks John! ;-T

Muzz · « **Reply #11 on:** May 17, 2015, 01:14:47 PM »

We are obviously talking about a different nut!

normzone · « **Reply #12 on:** May 17, 2015, 01:21:45 PM »

Quote from: rodekyll on May 16, 2015, 04:53:59 PM

I'll once again offer that a $20 set of double-ended plumbers sockets gives you all those big sizes in torque-capable materials for very little money. If you find yourself in the big sizes and the need to get the sockets over long shafts, it's a very guzzisti solution.

There's a lot of nuts around here. I concur with [rodekyll] - owning a set of those things has got me into and out of some strange places for very little money. MGB GT wheels like them as well.

oldbike54 · « **Reply #13 on:** May 17, 2015, 01:27:56 PM »

Quote from: normzone on May 17, 2015, 01:21:45 PM

There's a lot of nuts around here. I concur with [rodekyll] - owning a set of those things has got me into and out of some strange places for very little money. MGB GT wheels like them as well.

That MGB GT thing answers several questions re you Norm ;D

Dusty

kevdog3019 · « **Reply #14 on:** May 17, 2015, 02:51:24 PM »

Well, he's showing it on the wrong side of the box. It has the peened dimple in it and I'm assuming this is the one that came loose on his bike. His original pic shows the stripping of the gear drive splines which would suggest it was loose?? I think I have this right. Correct me if I'm wrong.

ratguzzi · « **Reply #15 on:** May 17, 2015, 04:59:04 PM »

The picture of the 22mm wrench on the nut is the same nut in this picture that loosened up allowing the gear to slide back and strip the splines off.
This is what you see when the bell housing is removed.
The bell housing gear does have a 36mm nut but that didn't cause my issues.
JB

kevdog3019 · « **Reply #16 on:** May 17, 2015, 07:30:26 PM »

OK... yes, that sounds better. That's not the nut I said couldn't come loose. Fart torque and dimple keeps that sucker secure. :P
Thanks JB

Muzz · « **Reply #17 on:** May 18, 2015, 12:23:08 AM »

It was the 36mm that gave us the aggro!!!!! :'( :'( Your problem nut JB was no problem to us. Certainly caused you some grief!

Kev, if you don't have a spline tool to go with that 36mm socket I think you might find yourself in some difficulty. How JB got his off without any problems I have absolutely no idea!

kevdog3019 · « **Reply #18 on:** May 18, 2015, 10:26:19 AM »

Quote from: Muzz on May 18, 2015, 12:23:08 AM

It was the 36mm that gave us the aggro!!!!! :'( :'( Your problem nut JB was no problem to us. Certainly caused you some grief!

Kev, if you don't have a spline tool to go with that 36mm socket I think you might find yourself in some difficulty. How JB got his off without any problems I have absolutely no idea!

You did it the slow fart method like that man in the white jacket. We're planning on using some manly fast impact tools. ;-T Will let you know soon.

Chuck in Indiana · « **Reply #19 on:** May 18, 2015, 11:44:59 AM »

If it were me, I'd want to hold that spline rather than having gears being rattle gunned.. <shrug> if I'm correctly understanding what is going on.

Muzz · « **Reply #20 on:** May 18, 2015, 01:01:01 PM »

Quote from: Chuck in Indiana on May 18, 2015, 11:44:59 AM

If it were me, I'd want to hold that spline rather than having gears being rattle gunned.. <shrug> if I'm correctly understanding what is going on.

The gear that will be taking the impact would be the helical cut transfer gear.

rodekyll · « **Reply #21 on:** May 18, 2015, 01:14:44 PM »

I don't know if it's an accepted practice or not, but when I was first starting out as a mechanic I stripped engines and gearboxes for unit rebuilds. One of the unit men used to jam the gears with a shop rag before rattle gunning shaft nuts. He called it "soft locking" the gears.

kevdog3019 · « **Reply #22 on:** May 18, 2015, 04:20:17 PM »

I'm going to hold it with my teeth! :P. Actually... I'm not exactly sure how it's being done as my compatriot is the one who's done this before.

Chuck in Indiana · « **Reply #23 on:** May 18, 2015, 04:28:14 PM »

:PICS!: or it never happened..

Muzz · « **Reply #24 on:** May 19, 2015, 12:14:58 AM »

Quote from: rodekyll on May 18, 2015, 01:14:44 PM

I don't know if it's an accepted practice or not, but when I was first starting out as a mechanic I stripped engines and gearboxes for unit rebuilds. One of the unit men used to jam the gears with a shop rag before rattle gunning shaft nuts. He called it "soft locking" the gears.

I have done that myself RK. Unfortunately for Kev, he has got to get that big sucker undone before he can actually get in to the box proper.

kevdog3019 · « **Reply #25 on:** May 22, 2015, 07:52:57 PM »

Ok, the main seal is done. We gave it our all and it didn't move, so we brought it to the local Guzzi shop and they got her off and new seal in licketti split for only .5 hours labor time. BTW... the seal can be done through the back without taking off the rear trans housing. We decided against the pushrod seal as we definitely could tell the main was leaking. How they got the nut off we don't know. All looks good though and tomorrow it's going back together. Oh... Notice the initials.

johnr · « **Reply #26 on:** May 22, 2015, 11:49:01 PM »

Nut Spec? An irrational adherence to the Moto Gu..... Oh! you meant something else.

kevdog3019 · « **Reply #27 on:** May 23, 2015, 05:51:50 AM »

Quote from: johnr on May 22, 2015, 11:49:01 PM

Nut Spec? An irrational adherence to the Moto Gu..... Oh! you meant something else.

36mm

kevdog3019 · « **Reply #28 on:** May 23, 2015, 09:19:22 PM »

Job done and bike home. Will run her tomorrow.
More eye candy-- lightened flywheel.

Muzz · « **Reply #29 on:** May 24, 2015, 05:11:13 AM »

The handles on our two spanners to get that nut undone are about 800mm long. I am torquing ;) serious mechanical advantage here!

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Author Topic: Nut spec needed (Read 7985 times)

Wildguzzi.com

Vasco DG

oldbike54