Eldorado and the quest to ride a Moto Guzzi for the first time.

[LesP]

Assembled and ready to fit, I need to find a piece of non china hose to attach it and some no china thin band hose clamps or similar.
The oil return hose will be 8mm/13mm green Ariete hose that is Made in Italy same as the fuel lines (7mm/10mm)

[balvenie]

Lovely work Les

[Frenchfrog]

Art!

[LesP]

 

The oil needs to stay inside the engine when it has to sit on 80 to 100 mph across the Northern Territory.

[Rick4003]

Lovely job indeed! I like the use of the reed valve. Seems like it should be more reliable than the old ball valve. At least if it was to fail is would fail to seal and not fail to open like the ball valve does.

There can't be a lot more stuff you can come up with to change is there?

How is the - regulations in OZ? Are you allowed to ride there?

Great job as always!

[LesP]

There can't be a lot more stuff you can come up with to change is there?

I might have to redo or rejig a couple of things.

An oil pressure gauge is a must, I had thought of using an adjustable Hobbs switch (oil pressure switch) there are some that are adjustable for the indicator light to go out between  15 PSI and 50 PSI.
I got the Marlin USA 0/100 PSI gauge and it needs a mount which looks like being a clamp around the steering head between the top frame tube and upper bearing cover.
A twin bolt split version would be easier, a one piece, one bolt version would mean removing the dash and top triple to fit it.
The gauge will be at the front of the fuel tank, L/H side.

I have a small Mugura brake light switch that needs to mount to the brake lever perch (No switch MGC brake cable, I would like a HD Barnett ? cable)

I need to make a hold down of some sort for the ignition coil holder.

I have a bunch (I hope) of bits coming from the UK (ignition sundries/HT lead etc)

I have a National Cycle Police type screen (used but great condition) that needs mounting.
Did I say how I got that screen (who knows)
It was on US eBay (Los Angeles iirc) I asked the seller if I could bid on it with no reply (iirc)
An Aussie mate living in the States (CA) had said if I ever needed anything just contact him, I got him to bid on the screen which I got for peanuts 
He sent it on to me and I sent a mail to the seller saying thanks for the screen 
Even with post it was cheap and a big thanks to Aussie mate. 

I have fork cover screen mounts so spacer bushes should be all it needs to fit, I might cut the top down a little (maybe)

A hose and vent bottle off the gearbox vent.

You know the L/H tool box is off again (easier to fit the ignition switch wiring) I would guess I have around 25 hours in fitting and removing them over and over  (I might have to fit the second set of M6 Nylocs to that one)

The front brake will need extra careful set up and of course I am just now reminded I should have remembered to get a M7 - 1 lefthand tap when I rode down to the city last this week to get fasteners for the breather unit. 

The front 2LS brake connector link rod will be cut to have a  M7 left hand/right hand central adjuster inserted which will make setting the shoe contact easy.

The Dan Brown panniers will need some work to refit.

Looking at the bike (In the living room now) there is not that much to do.

I have two Brembo brake caliper adaptors to machine, one for the DR780 and one for the 1974 Commando (I was waiting for a M10/1 banjo bolt that arrived)........ and of course that means I should have got two bolts not one. 





 

[LesP]

More Acetyl, M44-1 thread that will have a same thread cap at the back of the alloy bracket.
A 44 mm OD ring (2 mm x wide 3 mm deep) is an interference fit holding the gauge in place, that meant the ID and OD could get a 2 mm radius (cutter) in the mill.





Somewhere inside the flat bar is what I am looking for.

[LesP]

A lot of work for a gauge.
I was thinking, what were you thinking but it doesn't matter when it is done
It would have been an easy job with a CNC.

[Dave Swanson]

Les,  when you titled this a a quest you sure weren't kidding!!   

[LesP]

Can't have any excuses to not like it Dave.

First easy job out of the way, shorten and countersink the end of a SS banjo bolt for a ZI 900.

[LesP]

Another exciting instalment from slower than slow motion productions.
Can you believe that remainder from the can of VHT Barrel Paint is still going, I must have around $3 (US$1.92) in black paint in the bike by now.
I can get that new hose tomorrow being Monday.







The top Acetyl cup goes in the bracket, the lower screws to it (Internal M44 - 1 thread), the gauge and adaptor push into the cup, the 2 x 3 ring with 2 mm radius on the ID presses in on top of the gauge bezel and the NPT fitting is screwed into the adaptor.

[LesP]

I had finished my morning coffee (KitchenAid Expresso hopefully Made in the USA) and thought I better make something to hold the coil in that base I made who knows when.
I'm on a roll with the Acetyl so why stop now.

I think those hose bums farm the actual hose making (oil gauge) out, day three and no pick up call, what if I was in the hurry ?.... I need more bits from the city when it is ready.



It goes nicely with the rejuvenated internally starter motor exterior patina.


From the archives.







Relocating the coil allowed the breather tower... My order from the UK for HT leads/terminals/rubber bits etc is only at the Completed stage after three weeks ? ( I can only assume 'they know about this thread)

I took some time to look at the $9 caliper from https://www.ebay.com/str/lamontsanfurd over there in Texas (He would be the only vender who over many years has simply sent parts that were what he said they were)

The caliper is date stamped 00 (2000) so it was no surprise one piston was a little sticky, I elected to make some (Acetyl) spacers etc to restrain the other three pistons and after setting up a spare master cylinder pumped that piston out with no drama.
I was going to refurbish it anyway but was surprised to find full seal kits (pressure and dust) were thin on the ground (Not to mention there are kits with ChinaRubber to be avoided)
I found a set in the UK for a decent price with post, they should be here this month, I will need to come up with a bracket to fit it to the Norton.
Brembo do seal/piston kits but they do not come with dust seals that can harden over time.

http://www.ebaystores.com.au/Powerhouse-Automotive-Ltd




........ and back to it, CCR is band of the day (My HD has 123000 songs)

[LesP]

I change out kitchen cutting boards every six months or so for hygiene reasons. After boiling water sterilisation they go in the bin ?, of course not they get to have a new life in the lathe/mill material bin.



Outside 3 jaws, face the front, bore the centre/center to size (54.8 mm)
Flip it over, newly faced side up against the jaws, face that side to finished thickness.
Swap to inside jaws turn the OD.
Ready for mill rotary table.

[LesP]

No surprise, a call this afternoon to say the braided line is ready 300 mm @ $60 (US$40).

No one will ever guess the ignition coil hold down was once part of a bread board.
It will need some holes....





Top side.


Under side.

[Dave Swanson]

I am gobsmacked and completely out of adjectives.  Struck dumb!

[LesP]

Desperation is the English way Dave.

The Moto Guzzi force (frugality) was with me when I recycled that bread board, the electricity probably cost more than the material.

We are in the middle of Winter now so I need to dig deep to get through this (It was down to 11c / 52f in the early AM and a chilly high today of 21c/70f ) and find some woolly garments.

[LesP]

That will do besides some de burring and find some M4 nylocs for the bottom (6 mm rod stepped to take M4 thread)
The ignition coil should be happy.

[balvenie]

Well done Les

[LesP]

I am running out of things to do to avoid starting it. 

The China L/H M6-1 tap and die arrived today (along with another rates bill (increased $399 per 1/4) which means another 3 months has passed by)
The L/H tap and die  means I can cut the 2LS front brake rod up and add an M6 LH-R/H adjuster so it can be set on the bike easily.



Design has started on the RollerRider 550.

[LesP]

I won't mention having to fettle one thread on the fancy $60 braided oil line (The male fitting stopped half way)

Anyway, I finished dinner (easy to chew being elderly) and thought I might as well remove the brake link rod and have a look,one thing led to another.
I have spare throttle cable rubber boots so two of them will go on the adjuster.

I googled M6 L/H nuts but could not see any, then it came to me, where are the stainless turn buckles from early in the year to pull the shoes in hard on the cams for arcing the newly bonded brake shoes.
Sure enough M6-1 L/H - R/H and there they are, saved making them.

[LesP]

[s1120]

Nice touch with the rubber boots on the brake link! 

[LesP]

I got 10 or so rubber boots on the last MGCycle order so using them up (It hides the mod a little also)
#
It is not a restoration by any means but the more of this shiny crap I add the more the poor old Bosch starter motor looks neglected (externally).. I might have to use the last of that VHT paint to give it a birthday.

[LesP]

OD 16 mm
Length 12 mm
Bore 13.6 mm ID  X 6.2 mm deep.
Thread M9-1.25.

Time to make, about 10 minutes.

[LesP]

New electronic flasher, but no bracket... Use a rubber band or something else.

[LesP]

Brand new, don't scratch it.
This will do until I get the rest of the bits for the distributor mod but that will be after it is run in and will be a new over size distributor body to take the stock cap (The Made in Italy for a Fiat 500 version)

The Dyna mount is some more bread board so a new plate to take the Greg Bender relay group, flasher unit and Dyna box.
Loose ends.





This guy is a genius so thanks for making the video. 
Loop distributor with hall effect sensor pick up, deadly.

https://youtu.be/Uo5DqKGnZzs

[LesP]

I tried a simple version time wise and bodged both, maybe the Deep Purple was to loud in my Qantas supplied Bose headphones.

I had another go this morning.
Left/Flasher unit, Middle/Greg Bender relay's, Right/Dyna Booster probably does nothing Box.





Reduced from 6 mm thickness down to 4 mm to save weight.

[LesP]

Wow, the box was well packed, all there and not a drama to be found... Fantastic.
I got another Lucas head light that does not have the pilot light so to be swapped out.

Some time ago I couldn't even buy HT terminals, fixed, including 2 metres of copper core HT lead and plenty of rubber parts.

The front brake cable is non switched so I got this mini Magura  switch.
The pitch measured 0.8 mm but the OD is bigger than 6 mm, more like 1/4" so thought UNF but that is 28 TPI and this gauged at 32 TPI.... Could it be 1/4" UNS (1/4 - 32) , I hope so, a tap is in the mail for next week and will break the rule again and mount it to the brake perch body unless some other place comes to mind.

[pariah]

Remarkable thread. Just read it from the start. Lovely work Les. You have any idea how much money you have into this so far? (Having just bought a 73 GT850 :) )

[LesP]

Remarkable thread. Just read it from the start. Lovely work Les. You have any idea how much money you have into this so far? (Having just bought a 73 GT850 :) )

Thanks, it (Your GT) looks like a good bike in the pictures (Maybe the front brake shoes are worn or 'something based on the lever angles and threaded adjusters)

I would do just as I wanted to do in the beginning, change the oils, maybe check the rocker clearances and ride it  (since it has Gilardoni's)  for a bit before thinking about digging to deep.
My bike started with the the universal near failing point so would suggest putting it on the centre stand in gear and rocking the back wheel, I would not want to see much more than 10 to 12 mm of movement out at the tyre.

The cost I am not sure of because this bike is an oddity, it looked like the 15000 mile bike it was sold as but every conceivable component that could wear out was pretty much just that.
I am not even sure if the paint is original, only someone knowledgeable could tell me that.
#
The bike cost around US$9000 landed in Australia, MGCycle got the most loyal custom/money @ US$5000 + post (Maybe $1000 over 14 orders) so there is $14000 off the bat.
Around 2000 € at HMB... The ring and pinion was AU$799 locally and so on, the 1000SP gearbox from San Francisco AU$700, wiring loom US$462 so maybe $20000 + , (US$14k/$20k depending on the exchange rate over the last 8 + years)  that's why I joke about having 3 or 4 dollars invested in paint. (maybe a half roll of 'tin foil (and water) in the chrome restoration)

No offence meant to anyone, I do not build bikes to putt around the neighbourhood or dawdle down some back road, this will be a working bike which is why the cosmetics are as is but shown some respect given their age and condition, whatever that might be.
We will never know why it had worn out stock cylinders but already (ruined by chrome) on a first under size on the crankshaft, knurled internally valve guides.. etc etc.

In hindsight it would have been better (logically) as considered at the time (1 for 1 exchange rate) when the extent of wear was found, an incomplete 1100 or 8 valve bike imported to use its running gear for what would be a modern (disc) Loop Eldorado but it it would have been a Loop in name only.

The irony is I might now be one of the most knowledgeable people on the planet regarding the 1973 2LS brake Eldorado who has never ridden a Moto Guzzi.

The Mk2a 850 is up on the table the Moto Guzzi vacated, the 1949 Sunbeam up on another, War of the Worlds continues....... Spring is closer than it was yesterday and have wondered how far I could go on my BWS/Zuma 125 with my lightest camping gear.


Back to the (not yet) Spring clean.