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I've had zero issues with using the "crap cast" rear main bearings, I'm not sure what is really to be gained by using the fancy billet one.
Looks good all of it. Although I think we are more than two following It just gets old with the same old looking good comment Appreciate you're taking the time to post.
I have to admit, sometimes I wonder if this thread will ever end. (Charlie would have it done by the weekend)As a test I removed the wheel bearings and seals (to be replaced with more new ones) machined a quick mandrel (48 mm - 0.05 mm or so) put it into the bore of the old inner hub, heated the alloy for some time with a heat gun and then hit the mandrel with a reasonable sized hammer, the result was surprising.Not one micron of movement... yikes, two more blows and the same... It will need more thought.
Are the nuts/bolts that you replaced original parts, or do you order from places like McMaster-Carr?I will be reinstalling a cleaned up V65 engine and I would like the visible bolts, hex screws, etc. to look new.I have bought original stuff so far. Some people on this forum recommend that.I am not sure what to order for metal/strength... etc. I did read not to use stainless.
Perhaps you could put the whole wheel hub in an oven to heat the whole thing up and then press the bearing hub out with a press or a big hammer if you don't have a press (yet) The aluminium should expand more than the steel and loosen up a bit. Even if they will be same temperature after heating. I'm curious about your z-axis DRO setup. From what I can figure out the scale itself it fixed and you are moving the sensor head up and down with the quill movement? Is that correct? Is there a rod that is hidden behind the two linear rails the sensor head slides on? Does your mill have z-axis movement only in the quill or is it with a movable knee?
Like some of the others I'm impressed and admirative of your skills and persistence in achieving perfection !!!