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2013 Stelvio NTX Startus Interuptus

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ediehl:
I know this topic has been covered a lot, but I just thought I'd relate my specifics before doing anything more. So, I get a loud CLUNK from the solenoid when I press the starter button. It started as intermittent, and then went full-time. I replaced the battery; no change.  I pulled the starter off, and when I ground the housing, I see that the starter gear does extend and spin. I sanded the terminals on the solenoid (which looked OK anyway) and used dielectric grease. After a few removals and re installations of the starter, I was always back to CLUNK. I removed the solenoid, wondering if there were some contacts I could clean, but I didn't see any. This time when I reinstalled, I was thinking it was time for a new relay or starter or whatever, but she started right up! It was fine for maybe a dozen times, with rides in between, but now I'm back to CLUNK. I'm thinking maybe I should start by replacing both starter relays (where are they on the NTX?). Or should I just do the automotive relay bypass and heavier gauge wiring? Is there a link to a diagram of that rewiring somewhere?

guzzisteve:
What you want to check is the voltage drop at the spade connector on solenoid from 12V down to ? when you hit start button.

pehayes:
First, does this bike version have the "autostart" feature?  As in  you don't need to hold the starter button.  You just press once and the starter continues to crank for about 5 seconds.  Maybe you never tried letting go of the button?  If you have autostart, it is likely that the ECU is killing the signal to the solenoid.  So measuring at the spade won't tell you much.

Second, if you get a loud CLUNK then there is nothing wrong with your starter relay or circuit.  It always helps to add the Startus Interruptus fix (even a roll-yer-own version).  But that isn't likely to fix the CLUNK.

Third, there are huge contacts within the solenoid itself.  As the solenoid pulls the pinion gear forward into the ring gear, it also connects the huge contacts in the back wall of the solenoid. Older units could be disassembled and cleaned/corrected.  Not sure if your new one can.

Several of us  have approached this problem by completely bypassing the bike's starter circuitry.  Momentary bypass switch.  Worth your time to read through the entire report (started as Norge but morphed to Breva).  Start here and it goes on for four pages:  https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=117948.0

Please report back.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

Wayne Orwig:

--- Quote from: ediehl on March 14, 2023, 04:11:25 PM --- I sanded the terminals on the solenoid (which looked OK anyway) and used dielectric grease.

--- End quote ---


Dielectric grease on an arcing contact.  :violent1:
Sounds like the starter is bad, and now it likely is.

Check the voltage at the battery terminal and ground, AT THE STARTER, when you press the starter button and get the clunk.

ediehl:
When I previously removed the solenoid from the starter, my intent was to disassemble and try cleaning the contacts. But I was not seeing how the solenoid could be disassembled. After I reassembled it, it begun working properly, for a while. Can the solenoid be purchased independently of the starter?

I think the NTX does have the autostart feature, but I can't honestly say that I'm sure of that (got a bunch of bikes  :grin:)

I saw from another post that there are 2 relays involved---startup and startup maintenance. I was wondering if maybe the relay that initiates the gear extension was OK, but the one that then kept the starter turning was weak. But I don't even know if that's how it's supposed to work.

From my previous attempts I seem to remember being puzzled that the voltage at one of the solenoid posts was only something like 8V, but I need to reassess that.

I'll go read through that referenced thread thread on the subject. Thanks!

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