Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: beetle on July 08, 2018, 04:37:46 PM
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This is a basic howto for the GuzziDiag suite of tools. This howto will show you how to connect, read (backup) your existing map, write (flash) a new map and perform a TPS reset. This uses the Windows versions, but Mac & Linux versions function the same.
Original thread here: LINKY (http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=69168.0)
All types of ECU use the same version of GuzziDiag
I have made a PDF versions of this tutorial. Download Links:
For bikes with the 7SM/5AM/15RC/15M ECU LINKY (https://www.griso.org/GuzziDiag%20for%2015M-15RC-5AM-7SM.pdf)
For bikes with the MIUG3 ECU LINKY (https://www.griso.org/GuzziDiag%20for%20V7-V9.pdf)
Click on the link for your operating system:
Windows (http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/GuzziDiag_V0.47.zip)
Linux 32 bit (http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/GuzziDiag_V0.47.tgz)
Linux 64 bit (http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/GuzziDiag_V0.47_x64.tgz)
Mac (http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/GuzziDiag_V0.47.app.zip)
For the 5AM ECU, you will need the following Reader/Writer software from the GuzziDiag page:
Windoze:
IAW5xReader (http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/IAW5xReader_V0.28.zip)
IAW5xWriter (http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/IAW5xWriter_V0.24.zip)
Linux 32 bit:
IAW5xReader (http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/IAW5xReader_V0.28.tgz)
IAW5xWriter (http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/IAW5xWriter_V0.24.tgz)
Linux 64 bit:
IAW5xReader (http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/IAW5xReader_V0.28_x64.tgz)
IAW5xWriter (http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/IAW5xWriter_V0.24_x64.tgz)
For Mac:
IAW5xReader (http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/IAW5xReader_V0.28_x64.app.zip)
IAW5xWriter (http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/IAW5xWriter_V0.24.app.zip)
For the 15M/15P/15RC ECU you will need these:
Windoze:
IAW15xReader (http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/IAW15xReader_V0.68.zip)
IAW15xWriter (http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/IAW15xWriter_V0.27.zip)
Linux32 bit:
IAW15xReader (http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/IAW15xReader_V0.68.tgz)
IAW15xWriter (http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/IAW15xWriter_V0.27_x86.tgz)
Linux 64 bit:
IAW15xReader (http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/IAW15xReader_V0.67_x64.tgz)
IAW15xWriter (http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/IAW15xWriter_V0.27_x64.tgz)
Mac:
IAW15xReader (http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/IAW15xReader_V0.67.app.zip)
IAW15xWriter (http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/IAW15xWriter_V0.26.app.zip)
For the MIU G3...
Windoze:
IAWMIUG3Reader (http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/IAWMIUG3Reader_V0.05.zip)
IAWMIUG3Writer (http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/IAWMIUG3Writer_V0.06.zip)
Linux 32 bit:
IAWMIUG3Reader (http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/IAWMIUG3Reader_V0.04.tgz)
IAWMIUG3Writer (http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/IAWMIUG3Writer_V0.03.tgz)
Linux 64 bit:
IAWMIUG3Reader (http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/IAWMIUG3Reader_V0.04_x64.tgz)
IAWMIUG3Writer (http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/IAWMIUG3Writer_V0.03_x64.tgz)
Mac:
IAWMIUG3Reader (http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/IAWMIUG3Reader_V0.04.app.zip)
IAWMIUG3Writer (http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/IAWMIUG3Writer_V0.03.app.zip)
For the 7SM ECU
Windows:
7SM Reader (http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/IAW7SMReader_V0.03.zip)
7SM Writer (http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/IAW7SMWriter_V0.05.zip)
WARNING! Do not run the 7SM Writer in a virtual machine under MacOS or Linux. You are guaranteed to brick your ECU!
Each is a standalone program that works independently of each other and does not require any extra software.
You will also need the two cables. They are available from various resellers on the net.
EDIT: Lonelec is the best source on the net. They sell a kit that inlcudes both cables and is guaranteed to work
Get it here: CLICKY (https://www.lonelec.co.uk/Guzzidiag-Melcodiag-3pin-Interface-Cable)
!!!! Do not use the drivers that come with the cables. Download the drivers from here:
Windows (https://www.griso.org/CDM21228_Setup.zip)
MacOS 10.3 - 10.8 (https://www.griso.org/FTDIUSBSerialDriver_v2_2_18.dmg)
MacOS 10.9 & above (https://www.griso.org/FTDIUSBSerialDriver_v2_4_2.dmg)
Linux does not require drivers. Please ensure you are part of the DIALOUT group, or run the programs as the superuser.
1. The OBD2 KKL 16 pin to USB cable with the FTDI chip. This cable requires drivers for Windows & MacOS.
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/obd2.jpg)
2. The Fiat 3 Pin to 16 pin Adapter
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/3pin.jpg)
To connect to the bike, connect the two 16 pin connectors on the cables together and the 3 pin cable to the diagnostic port. For example on the GRiSO, it's located under the seat near the back right.
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/diag.jpg)
Attach the clips from the 3 pin cable to the battery and plug the USB cable into a USB port on your computer.
A LED on the OBD2 cable will indicate power is connected.
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/obd2-led.jpg)
Please note, when any of the GuzziDiag programs are open (GuzziDiag, Reader or Writer), it will grab the COM port. You can only have one program open at any one time.
Right, next we will do some stuff....
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To read and backup your existing map, open the Reader for you ECU. Your computer may have multiple COM ports, so select the correct one from the drop-down box. it is usually the last one or highest number. if it doesn't connect at first, keep trying different ports. In my example, I only have one, COM4.
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/reader2.jpg)
Then, click on 'read'
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/reader1.jpg)
A dialog box will open, and here you can select the folder where you want to save the .bin file. You can name it anything you like.
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/reader3.jpg)
Click 'save'. You will then get:
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/reader4.jpg)
Turn your keyswitch to 'on'. Do not start the engine. Reader will start downloading. It will take about 15 minutes to backup the map for CARC bikes & V7/V9, and about 30 minutes for the 7SM.
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/reader5.jpg)
When it has finished, it will ask you to switch off your keyswitch. Obey.
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/reader6.jpg)
Done!
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To write or flash a new map, start the Writer program. You can select your COM port here as well.
WARNING! Do not run the 7SM Writer in a virtual machine under MacOS or Linux. You are guaranteed to brick your ECU!
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/writer1.jpg)
Click on the button with the 3 dots, and you will get a dialog box where you can browse to and select the .bin file you wish to flash by clicking 'Load'. The Writer will only see maps for the particular ECU you have. If you can't see any map .bin files, you may have selected the wrong Writer program.
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/writer3.jpg)
Then, click 'Write' Note: In the bottom right-hand corner is the checksum of the bin file. If I send you a map, it will have the checksum as part of the file name. If it is different, do not flash it.
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/writer4.jpg)
Same as before, it will ask you to switch your keyswitch on.
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/writer5.jpg)
It will start the upload. Note the message in the bottom left corner 'uploading'. For 15x it will take about 1 minute. For 5AM, 3 minutes. For MIUG3, 5 minutes. For 7SM, 15 minutes. It will then change to 'programming' as it writes the file to the ECU.
It will then show a message that it was succesful.
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/writer7.jpg)
Click 'OK' and switch off your keyswitch.
Here's a little video of a map upload: https://youtu.be/ZAi1N3ZFhHA
For the Cali 1400, you may find the Traction Control has mysteriously deactivated after flashing a new map. Not to worry, simply switch it back on!
Done!
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For 5AM & 15RC bikes (except California 1100 & Bellagio - see "Thoughts on TPS reset" below), you will then need to reset your TPS. If you have 15M ECU, you set the TPS manually. But you already new that, right? For the MIUG3 you will perform Throttle Self-Learning. For the 7SM, it's a two step process. First, you must perform 'Handle self-learning', and then 'Throttle self-Learning' immediately afterward. See those steps below.
TPS reset.
Open the GuzziDiag program.
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/guzzidiag1.jpg)
Click 'File' -> 'Preferences' to configure the software. It only needs to be done once.
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/guzzidiag2.jpg)
The GuzziDiag settings dialog box opens. Here you can select language, COM port and bike type. Click the X to close, when done.
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/guzzidiag3.jpg)
Next we want to connect to the ECU, so click 'File' -> 'Connect'
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/guzzidiag5.jpg)
It will ask you to switch on your keyswitch and click 'OK'
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/guzzidiag6.jpg)
You'll notice there are 8 drop down boxes to select various readouts. Select whatever you wish.
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/guzzidiag4.jpg)
You can see here after uploading the map, my TPS (Throttle) is slightly out. It should read about 4.7
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/guzzidiag7.jpg)
Let's reset it! Click on 'View' -> 'Actors'
You will see the Actors menu:
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/actors1.jpg)
Next, click on one of the drop-down selection boxes under 'Engine Off'
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/actors2.jpg)
Select TPS Reset
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/actorstps1.jpg)
Click 'Start'
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/actorstps2.jpg)
You'll get the TPS Reset OK dialog. Click 'OK'.
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/actorstps3.jpg)
To Relearn the throttle. MIUG & 7SM only. For 7SM, you must perform 'Handle self-Learning' first. The procedure is exactly the same, except you must choose 'Handle self-learning' from the menu. Don't forget, for the 7SM, you must do 'Handle self-learning', then 'Throttle self-learning'.
Open the Actors menu.
(http://www.griso.org/Clipboard22.jpg)
From one of the drop-down menus, select 'Throttle self-Learning'
(http://www.griso.org/Clipboard24.jpg)
Then click 'Start'.
(http://www.griso.org/Clipboard26.jpg)
Then click 'OK.
(http://www.griso.org/Clipboard27.jpg)
Reset the Autolearning parameters (ECU fuel trims) - All bikes.
From the Actors menu, on one of the drop-down box, select 'Reset autolearning parameters', then click 'Start'.
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/actorsal.jpg)
Done!
If you want to see some data change, you can start your engine and check out the readouts. Here I simply twisted the throttle (engine was not running).
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/guzzidiag12.jpg)
Once you're done, click 'File' -> 'Disconnect' and you will be prompted to switch off the keyswitch. Switch off the key and click OK.
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/guzzidiag13.jpg)
Done!
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CO Trim - 5AM & 15RC/15M only. The MIUG3 & 7SM do not have this feature.
If you load a new map or do something simple to your stock map like switch of the lambda sensor, you may find you need to adjust the CO trim for a smoother idle or less smelly idle (too much fuel). You should only do this after a test ride or if you have a rough idle. For example, the 8V idles at 1200 +/- 50, 2V 1100 at 1100 +/- 100. If your idle is low, or very lumpy, you may need to go positive. If your idle is high, you may need to go positive or negative. If you smell unburnt fuel, you should go negative.
To do this with GuzzDiag, get your engine up to temperature (which is 60 deg celsius). Go for a short ride or let it idle with GuzziDiag connected so you can monitor the engine temp.
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/gd1.jpg)
Once up to 60C, hit the kill switch. Click on 'View' -> 'CO Trim'
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/gd3.jpg)
You will get the following dialog box. Click 'OK'
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/gd4.jpg)
You will then be presented with the CO trim menu. Click 'Start'
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/gd5.jpg)
You will get a dialog box that asks you to start your engine. Click 'Ok' and start 'er up.
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/gd6.jpg)
With the engine running, click the plus '+' or 'minus '-' button to adjust the CO trim. You can go up to +128 or down to -128.
What value you use will depend on what type of map you have installed and what you are trying to achieve. If you have one of my maps built specifically for the exhaust you have, you should only need to go +/- a small amount. If you smell unburnt fuel, try going to -5. Wait 15-20 seconds. Click 'Finish'. Let it idle for a few seconds. Better or worse? Go up or down as needed. With each change, make sure you wait ~20 seconds between adjustments, and be sure to click 'Finish'. If you have a rough or lumpy idle, try going positive first. Say, +3 or +5. Better or worse? Go up or down as needed. If you have to go more than 10 in either direction, you have the wrong map, you have a mechanical issue you should address, or may have forgotten to reset the TPS or relearn the throttle.
When you click 'Start' to make another adjustment, GuzziDiag will ask you start your engine again, but as it is already running, simply click 'OK' and go. Repeat as necessary until idle is smooth and at your required idle RPM. Always make sure you hit the 'Finish' button when you've made a change. Once done, hit the kill switch.
Try not to let the engine get too hot. You can't hurt anything by adjusting the CO trim, so if you feel you haven't quite got it right, let the engine cool off and start again. Of course, you can use a fan to assist with cooling.
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/gd7.jpg)
Done!
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Some thoughts on the TPS reset & Throttle self-learning.
I have done a bloody lot of TPS resets. When I'm in the thick of map testing, I might do a several TPS resets a day. Early on in my days of map development, I would sometimes not do a TPS reset if GuzziDiag showed the same value as the previous map. That turned out to be not a good idea. I would sometimes get inconsistent or unexpected results, and I found that if I checked it after going for a ride, it would read differently by 0.1 or 0.2 degrees.
So I would do a reset every time I flashed the map. This produced better results, but occasionaly I would still get an odd or unexpected result. Each time, the TPS Would read differently by 0.1 or 0.2 degrees.
You might think this is hardly worth worrying about. 0.2 degrees? Who cares? It might not seem like much, but for idle and very low throttle openings, it makes a big difference.
Now I follow the same routine every time I reset the TPS, and I do get consistent and expected results. So, I recommend this procedure:
1. Reset TPS
2. Open the throttle slightly and let it return by itself
3. Reset TPS again.
You can take this advice with a grain of salt, but I just want everyone to have consistent results, especially if you are flashing a new map.
Do not reset your TPS wth GuzziDiag if you have a Bellagio or 15RC California, or any non-CARC 1100. They must be set manually with a voltmeter. Read the voltmeter, do not use the volts measurement on GuzziDiag. You could also use the TPS measurement value in GuzziDiag. Again, recheck after opening and releasing the throttle. YMMV.
For a good howto, read Brad Black's (Brad the Bike Boy) post here: LINKY (http://www.bikeboy.org/tpssetting.html)
For the 7SM in the Cali 1400's, you may find you get SERVICE Warning after performing the Handle & Throttle self-learning using GuzziDiag. This does not happen on every bike.
You will note that after each step, GuzziDiag will show a dialog box with 'Finish' and an 'OK' to click. Then it asks you to turn the key off and close GuzziDiag. If you get the SERVICE warning after doing this, then repeat the Handle self-learning, then click 'OK' after the 'Finish' dialog pops up, but DO NOT turn the key off. Simply re-open GuzziDiag, click 'Connect' and click 'OK', then go into the Actors menu and perform the Throttle self-learning. Your SERVICE warning should now be gone.
TPS/Throttle values:
Griso, Stelvio, Norge, 1200 Sport, Breva 1100/1200: 4.6 or 4.7 or 4.8
Single throttle body V7/V7III/V9: 0.9-1.0
V7II: 1.0-1.2
V7 Classic/Nevada/Breva 750: 3.6
California 1100/Bellagio: 3.2 - 3.6
NOTE: The V7III value can be as low as 0.8. If you see this, and the engine idles OK, do not be alarmed.
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ECU List
7SM - California 1400, V85tt
MIU G3 - V7 & V9 Single Throttle Body models
5AM - All CARC models
15RC - V7 Classic, Nevada, Breva 750, California (from 2002), V11 (from 2002)
15M - California (1997-2001), 1100 Quota, V11 (until 2002)
16M - 11 Sport, Centauro, Daytona RS
P8 - Daytona 1000, 1000 Quota (from 1993/94*), California 1100 IE, California III (from 1993*)
P7 - California III (1990-1993), Daytona 1000 (1992-94*), 1000 Quota (until 93/94*)
*Note: P7/P8 changeover was sometime in 1993-1994. It was not simultaneous for all models.
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Thanks Beetle...worked a charm a couple months ago when I loaded your map for my newly acquired Griso.
Having just done the first service, I have been meaning to ask whether GuzziDiag can remove the wrench on the dash, or there is somewhere in the diagnostic screen I need to go...since I don't have my manual right at hand....figured I'd ask for a quick reply if anyone knows off the top of their head.
Thanks as always...Norge map running sweet, Griso Map running like a charm as well!
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Very COOL! that kind of tool (that I can use on my Mac) makes me want another Guzzi!
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Thanks Beetle...worked a charm a couple months ago when I loaded your map for my newly acquired Griso.
Having just done the first service, I have been meaning to ask whether GuzziDiag can remove the wrench on the dash, or there is somewhere in the diagnostic screen I need to go...since I don't have my manual right at hand....figured I'd ask for a quick reply if anyone knows off the top of their head.
Thanks as always...Norge map running sweet, Griso Map running like a charm as well!
No, you need to go in via the dash menu. Griso service code is 12425. Norge is 28315.
To deactivate the "spanner" icon, turn the selector near the light switch to MODE.Recall the MENU function by briefly pressing SET and releasing, then confirm the selection by pressing and holding the same button.Press and hold the SET button to select the DIAGNOSTICS function.Enter the service code of the model, then select the function "RESET SERVICE".
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Excellent...thank you! :thumb: :thumb:
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Mods, please make this a sticky, or, add another forum category for useful references such as this.
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Bit of a noob, here. Where does one find your custom maps? And do you have one for the 1100 Quota?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Bit of a noob, here. Where does one find your custom maps? And do you have one for the 1100 Quota?
www.griso.org
No, I've not made a map for a Quota.
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How do I identify the ECU model? In the hopefully near future, (as soon as I can find a new job and devote some quality time to something besides looking for a new job) I will need to load up Guzzidiag, get the cables in order to get new maps for my 2002 California Special Sport so that I can toss the Power Commander, for my 1400 Touring and also for a 2007 California Vintage that belongs to a friend that has been neglected for years due to totally squiffed fueling,
Also I am not entirely clear from the post at the top of the page if, in addition to Guzzidiag, is the read/write software a part of, or in addition to Guzzidiag?
If the sacred screw has been molested on the Vintage, what is the solution to that problem?
Thanks
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How do I identify the ECU model? In the hopefully near future, (as soon as I can find a new job and devote some quality time to something besides looking for a new job) I will need to load up Guzzidiag, get the cables in order to get new maps for my 2002 California Special Sport so that I can toss the Power Commander, for my 1400 Touring and also for a 2007 California Vintage that belongs to a friend that has been neglected for years due to totally squiffed fueling,
1400 Touring = 7SM
CalVin = 15RC
Cali Sport = 15M
Also I am not entirely clear from the post at the top of the page if, in addition to Guzzidiag, is the read/write software a part of, or in addition to Guzzidiag?
In the very first post:
"Each is a standalone program that works independently of each other and does not require any extra software."
If the sacred screw has been molested on the Vintage, what is the solution to that problem?
There's a way to get it close, but you'll never get it back to the exact same position.
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Thanks Mark :bow:
Dusty
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Thanks very much Mark for taking the time to put the guide together :thumb:
One quick question if I may - I looked at the V7 maps and couldn't see any for V7 111 ( I've got a 2017 Special ) Will you be doing maps for the 111 series bikes ?
Glenn
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Already made two. There's been no demand for them, so only one person has been testing them. Would you like to have a crack?
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Yeah I would. Thinking of putting Agostini cans on eventually and it runs well enough stock so I'll probably wait till I upgrade the exhaust but I could try a stock map if it helps you with development.
Haven't got the cables yet though been concentrating on sorting the suspension so far.
Glenn
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I'm more interested in testing it with the Agostini's. As you say, the stock map works quite well.
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If the sacred screw has been molested on the Vintage, what is the solution to that problem?
Sacred screw on a Vintage?
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OH NO, Not the sacred screw!!! Get out your 2.5mm allen.
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May I ask a dumb question, as someone awaiting their cables and hasn't worked with this all, but is probably overthinking things?
The whole "5AM, 15M, 15P..." thing... how does one know which they have?
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One, it's in your owners manual. Two, it's usually on the ECU's label. And Three, Guzzidiag tells you - bottom left box on the screen after "Connect" works.
Thanks Mark, a timely refresh.
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Although my'03 Breva, which Mr Roper has already run through his black box will never be needing a Beetle map, I must say I am truly blown away by your efforts to make modern Guzzis run as they should. A labour of love indeed. Ya blood's worth bottling. :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
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Thank you, thank your , thank you!!!! :bow:
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May I ask a dumb question, as someone awaiting their cables and hasn't worked with this all, but is probably overthinking things?
The whole "5AM, 15M, 15P..." thing... how does one know which they have?
It tells you in your workshop manual, it may say in the owners manual also. Easiest way.
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I have the OBDII cable for my Triumph. Can you please identify the Guzzi cable and post a link to a place it is available to purchase.
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I have the OBDII cable for my Triumph. Can you please identify the Guzzi cable and post a link to a place it is available to purchase.
Up above there is a picture of the "The Fiat 3 Pin to 16 pin Adapter". Don't mean to sound mean, but if you google that you'll see several places where you can buy one. I think it is a bit hard to document "buy it from here" when those sources change all the time. I bought mine using Amazon, some buy via ebay, other buy from some electrical supply place.
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Up above there is a picture of the "The Fiat 3 Pin to 16 pin Adapter". Don't mean to sound mean, but if you google that you'll see several places where you can buy one. I think it is a bit hard to document "buy it from here" when those sources change all the time. I bought mine using Amazon, some buy via ebay, other buy from some electrical supply place.
I will never need the Beetle map (with my current ride anyway) but I know one of the reasons is that those ones work. Others evidently say they are the same thing but for some reason they have electrical constipation, and won't pass a current.
Early adoptees quickly found that out.
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The link to buy the cables is in the first post. Some browsing on the Lonelec site produces this:
https://www.lonelec.co.uk/Motorbike-and-Car-OBD2-Adaptors/OBD2-Motorbike-Adaptors/Guzzi-Ducati-Aprilia-3pin-OBD2-Adaptor
Voila! The 3 pin to 16 pin adapter.
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Mods, please make this a sticky, or, add another forum category for useful references such as this.
http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=51074.0
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Plug in your cables, make sure the serial adapter is on, go to device manager and look at what you are hooked up to, now enter that port #. It should work. Then you may need to go to properties of the adapter and change the speed.
OH, It's a lovely thing, technology.
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http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=69168.840
Lots to read.
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I am so glad I checked in to Wild Guzzi tonight! Thank you beetle! Cables ordered.
Matt
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Just added some new info re the Cali 1400 Handle & Throttle self-learning in the TPS/Throttle learning post. Also a link to a good procedure for the Cali 1100 & Bellagio.
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Yes, the ECU (kill switch) has to be on. You should be in neutral, with the sidestand up.
You need to have heard the fuel pump do the 3 second power up.
Does the diagnostics software work? There is a cable test program also, does it work?
Also, the diagnostic software can no be running, when you try to run the reader. Only one program at a time can access the serial cable.
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Yes, the ECU (kill switch) has to be on. You should be in neutral, with the sidestand up.
You need to have heard the fuel pump do the 3 second power up.
Thats not correct. The kill switch can be in any position, you don't have to be in neutral, and the sidestand can be up or down. Sensors or switches can be in any state. There does not have to be any prior conditions to connect with GuzziDiag. The only condition is that required is that the engine not be running when you try read or write the map.
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Thats not correct. The kill switch can be in any position, you don't have to be in neutral, and the sidestand can be up or down. Sensors or switches can be in any state. There does not have to be any prior conditions to connect with GuzziDiag. The only condition is that required is that the engine not be running when you try read or write the map.
Odd. I thought the kill switch and such would cut power to the ECU and it would not talk.
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Chad, did you install the correct drivers?
If all else fails, it may be worth checking the continuity of the diagnostic port connection. I recently encountered a V7 with an open circuit between the connector and the ECU. Pin 16 on the grey connector (at least I think it's grey on the Breva). On the 8V it's blue.
(https://i34.servimg.com/u/f34/18/91/78/64/ca9e8d10.jpg)
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Odd. I thought the kill switch and such would cut power to the ECU and it would not talk.
No, the kill switch just disables the start-up relay. We just need the 'key on' signal to wake the ECU up.
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Odd. I thought the kill switch and such would cut power to the ECU and it would not talk.
It does with the 15M and RC but not with the W5AM or, from memory the MUIG3
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I'm pretty frustrated, but this is par for the course to me... I have never successfully downloaded any program or software or anything on a computer and subsequently been able to get it working.
Does the diagnostic software work?
If so, check for errors and clear them. That may help.
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Just downloaded the latest version .47 When you use the drop down there is 4 options of 5AM. ECUs
What’s the difference I have a 2015. Stelvio. I can’t seem to get connected.
Using lonelec cables.
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In preferences choose 8V for bike, 4V is 1 O2 sensor.
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You've downloaded IAWDiag, not GuzziDiag. Download GuzziDiag: LINKY (http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/GuzziDiag_V0.47.zip)
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Thanks, I have read this, the problem seems to be the drivers for the cables. I down loaded the drivers from this link but I get a error message saying the driver is either corrupted or has a code39 fault.
I went on to the guzzidiag main site to try and download the driver from another place, but the link doesn’t seem to work for me.
I’m using a old laptop running Windows XP. Could this be part of the issue.
I think it’s just the laptop isn’t seeing the USB and won’t connect. I have tried it in all the ports but no go.
That’s the problem with being very poor with computers
Thanks for all your time and help.
Andy
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I've PM'd you a download link for the older XP drivers. Uninstall the current drivers and give them a try.
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Thank you for this! I have been hesitant to mess with my ecu, even though I have the cables. I was fearful that I would brick the damn thing, and it really couldn't be that big of a difference anyway. Well, at the NAR I hosted a couple of weeks ago, Dan (Redhawk47), Roger (Bentgoose) and I believe Dan Ketchpel connected to my bike and walked me through the process.
So today was a Stelvio work on day, and I checked my valves (3 intakes were a little tight, all exhaust were fine), changed out my spark plug boots (23k on original's, no problems, didn't want any) and the plugs. While I had things apart I took the plunge and hooked up my precious Stelvio to the madness that is the interwebs.......... eeeek!
I had the blue light on the cables, good sign, but I couldn't see Guzzidiag anywhere on my screen? After left clicking and right clicking and getting a little frustrated I noticed in the bottom right had corner of the screen the red Guzzidiag box was showing about a 1/8" by 1/8" square. When I clicked on it, it would just go away? This is a fairly new computer, running Windoze 10 and I had, had a problem before with it running older programs and the screen resolution. I changed my screen resolution from the recommended 3840x 2160 to half of that 1920x1080 and wooo hooo we had Guzzidiag front and center and ready for me to ruin stuff with!
Now, it was time to follow Beetle's very well written and easy to follow instructions to the T, and lo and behold I was able to change my life! I used John's (Xlratr) highly regarded 44i map after backing up the stock map, reset the TPS and the auto relearning thing. Took it for a ride and all I can say is the dead spot between 3500 to 4200 is GONE! It never really bothered me before as I would just ride above it anyway, but WOW, it sure is nice to be able to feel this thing pull like it was meant too.
A couple of questions.....
1. My throttle was at 4.6, I understand it's supposed to be at 4.7 is this something that can be adjusted or should I not even concern myself with it?
2. My idle showed 1250 while running, however with the bike off it was still showing 50?
3. How long or how many miles do I need to give the auto learning? It did die on my once right after the changes, and I figured it needed a little more time to get-r-done.
Many thanks again to Beetle for all his time and effort, John for the awesome map and Dan, Dan & Roger for showing me the way!
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For the 8V, a TPS value of 4.6 or 4.7 or 4.8 is good. Any of those numbers is normal.
Showing 50 in the RPM while the engine is not running is odd, but I wouldn't be concerned.
Lambda is switched off in John's map, so there will not be any autolearning.
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For the 8V, a TPS value of 4.6 or 4.7 or 4.8 is good. Any of those numbers is normal.
Showing 50 in the RPM while the engine is not running is odd, but I wouldn't be concerned.
Lambda is switched off in John's map, so there will not be any autolearning.
Thank you, Sir.
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Well,
I have purchased Diag cables direct from China. Yes, they are cheap (at least until our rotten Govt charged tax on o/s purchases! May Harvey Norman rot in hell....) BUT you may not always get what you wish for!
On my last purchase, I bought on the correct picture of the Fiat adaptor cable, but what arrived was different! (I was refunded, then we modified the cables using the correct connector, but not something for the un-technical) Also the last KKL OBD2 cables did not work with my Fiat cables because only one earth pin was earthed (ie the zero volt line). This was easily rectified, but a PITA. Btw, I ALWAYs check the Chinese cables, because wiring errors are not unknown. You definitely do not want to release the smoke!
So, you have been warned! Getting the certified cables that will at least work first time.
regards, Doug
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Beetle, I ask your help with a 2012 tbi V7 that is running a 29.0 ms pulse width at idle. All primary inputs are withinh reason, so I thought maybe trying one of your maps might help. The maps are listed in XPF format , I cant figure a way to it to load with MUIG3 writer. was able to read and save to oe map. Other maps have been in BIN format. I leraned how to make those work.
ThaNks!
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XPF? How odd.
Shoot me an email via 'request a map' on my website. www.griso.org
Give me all the details.
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Well,
I have purchased Diag cables direct from China. Yes, they are cheap (at least until our rotten Govt charged tax on o/s purchases! May Harvey Norman rot in hell....) BUT you may not always get what you wish for!
regards, Doug
Our 'rotten government' is trying to protect the American worker...… BUY AMERICAN and support our nation and it's work force.
Paul
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Is there an 'American' manufacturer of suitable cables?
Some of the available ones are a bit hit and miss. The Lonelec ones seem to always work. My guess is that they are all manufactured somewhere in the Far East. The critical issue would be oversight of manufacture.
Pete
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Here's one from USA, don't know where it's made but specifies GuzziDiag. A USA company.
https://www.obdinnovations.com/kkl-obd2-usb-cable-ftdi-ft232rl-chip-3-pin-adapter-cable/
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Our 'rotten government' is trying to protect the American worker...� BUY AMERICAN and support our nation and it's work force.
Paul
dougo is Australian. :rolleyes:
He's talking about our rotten government.
dougo, you can buy them from wherever you want. However, the must have the genuine FTDI chip, or they won't work.
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dougo is Australian. :rolleyes:
He's talking about our rotten government.
Fake news!
(https://thumb.ibb.co/deCHG9/43796368-E10-F-4917-B3-D1-91-DFFEB5-AD90.jpg) (https://ibb.co/deCHG9)
Flannel moth caterpillar
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dougo is Australian. :rolleyes:
He's talking about our rotten government.
dougo, you can buy them from wherever you want. However, the must have the genuine FTDI chip, or they won't work.
Oooops, my mistake. Thanks for the carification.
Paul
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Here's one from USA, don't know where it's made but specifies GuzziDiag. A USA company.
https://www.obdinnovations.com/kkl-obd2-usb-cable-ftdi-ft232rl-chip-3-pin-adapter-cable/
Thanks for the link Steve. Just placed my order....
There site says the cables are manufactured to there specification, I suspect China or another country in there neighborhood. When I receive the cables I check the label and post here.
Paul
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www.griso.org
No, I've not made a map for a Quota.
What if we were to ask you super nicely. Would you make a map for the Quota then?
Pretty please?
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What do you need? Tell me what needs fixing on your Quota?
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So what do you think is going on here?
It's a 97 Sport injection. Runs like a bag of shit when cold, but good when warm/hot.
Thought I'd plug in Diag to see what I can see. And the below is what I saw :undecided: plugged into my EV and all is sweet... Yes I did have the right bike selected
https://youtu.be/hxvfQl5doeo
Edit: opened the ECU and found the below, anyone know anything about these?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DrpVYU7vMafuUtRz6
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98 Cali and Sport I use different ECU's. P8 and 16M. I don't think Guzzidiag has been developed for either but I'm prepared to be corrected.
Pete
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The Cali is an 03 and I've used it on that a few times (15something ECU) The Sport is in the list on Guzzidiag and uses the 16m ecu.
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Apologies. Yes, the 15M is supported. The 16M used in the Sport May be able to use GD for basic tuning purposes, (I freely admit I'm not certain of this.) but I do not believe there are reader or writer functions for it.
Pete
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Basic tuning is what I was going to do, did you watch the video I posted? Stuffs all over the place!
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16M eprom is not programmable via any GuzziDiag Writer.
Mr Revhead, what version of GuzziDiag are you using? The 16M is supported.
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Latest version, downloaded from the list here just last night.
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Edit: opened the ECU and found the below, anyone know anything about these?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DrpVYU7vMafuUtRz6
Do a Google search. Lots of references to ponder.
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Do a Google search. Lots of references to ponder.
I found a lot of Ducati people talking about them, but next to no Guzzi info. Would quite like to know what it's tuned for. Bike doesn't have a Staintune exhaust
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Maybe the Ultimap doesn't support the Guzzidiag diagnostic functions. The original 16M chip did.
I still have the stuff to MAYBE be able to burn a stock Sport chip if needed.
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Ultimap? Is that what's in the second link? I couldn't open it.
I agree with Wayne. I suspect it's not compatible with GuzziDiag.
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Yes 2nd link shows an Ultimap chip. Ok, so that answers the weird result!
I have another chip for it that was given to the previous owner that he never tried. It has "silencer" in Italian on it then a 2000 date. Wonder what that will do.
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There's only one way to find out!
:evil:
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There's only one way to find out!
:evil:
Seeing as I'm home for lunch.... I swapped chips and plugged in Guzzidiag again, instant connection!
So cranked it up and the bloody thing started perfectly and idled COLD! With the Ultimap you'd have to give a few goes, hold some throttle and hold the revs up to keep it running, let the revs drop too soon and it'd go COUGH and die. Would run fine when warm.
Now I just have to wait until tonight to go for a spin!
So, Guzzidiag content... .If you plug in and it goes spastic, check for an aftermarket chip!
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Win!
(http://i84.servimg.com/u/f84/18/91/78/64/image10.png)
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Seeing as I'm home for lunch.... I swapped chips and plugged in Guzzidiag again, instant connection!
Good to hear.
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beetle - I have a 2010 V7 Classic, with the 15RC control unit, and I want to run GuzziDiag on it. I have ordered the lonelec interface and adapter but haven't received it yet. I have an x64 Linux laptop so I downloaded the GuzziDiag application, and the IAW5X Writer and Reader for x64 machines. The software opens up fine, and I was running through the tutorial when I hit a snag. In the Writer, when I click on the "..." button to choose a file, I get a file tree in the left-hand pane that shows the file structure of my laptop, but I do not see any map .bin files, like it shows in the tutorial.
Is this feature only available after connecting the laptop and ECU? What else would cause the files not to appear? Is there no alternative map for the V7 Classic? Or do I need to download it from somewhere first?
(https://i.ibb.co/ft7J4R3/IMG-20180610-150335-355.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ft7J4R3)
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Well yes. Unless you have a map or library of maps to try you won't see anything. They, maps, are not part of th Guzzidiag suite of tools.
If you want to try one of Mark's? They are available at his Griso.org website.
Pete
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christof, as Pete says, the maps are separate files. Furthermore, the Writer will only list map .bin files that are applicable to the Writer version.
You mentioned the IAW5xWriter. Is that a typo? For the 15RC ECU, you need the IAW15xWriter.
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Wow. What a great resource. Wish I wasn’t so computer illiterate
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I am trying to use GuzziDiag on a 2010 V7 Classic. I have a Linux computer and have downloaded the appropriate Reader and Writer files (although my Reader is version 0.28 and I have seen versions as high as 0.67 on various links). I have installed the cables correctly and have power to the FTDi connector. I am experiencing two problems:
1) when I try to run the reader, no choices appear under COM PORT, it is just greyed out. When I click on "Read" it brings up a dialog for naming the file, but when I click "Save" it returns a message - "Failed to Read"
2) I tried going to the von-der-salierburg site to download the latest version of the Reader, and I get a 404 - Not Found message
Any suggestions?
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I am trying to use GuzziDiag on a 2010 V7 Classic. I have a Linux computer and have downloaded the appropriate Reader and Writer files (although my Reader is version 0.28 and I have seen versions as high as 0.67 on various links). I have installed the cables correctly and have power to the FTDi connector. I am experiencing two problems:
1) when I try to run the reader, no choices appear under COM PORT, it is just greyed out. When I click on "Read" it brings up a dialog for naming the file, but when I click "Save" it returns a message - "Failed to Read"
2) I tried going to the von-der-salierburg site to download the latest version of the Reader, and I get a 404 - Not Found message
Any suggestions?
Do you need to install the FTDI drivers?
It looks like the site is down.
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Drivers are not required for Linux. The GuzziDiag site is not down. Here are the links for the 15x Reader 0.67
32 bit. https://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/IAW15xReader_V0.67.tgz
64 bit. https://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/IAW15xReader_V0.67_x64.tgz
Also, for Linux, you need to either be a member of the Dialout group, or alternatively, use sudo.
Plug in the GuzziDiag cable to a USB port. In the terminal, type:
sudo usermod -a -G dialout $USER
Where $USER is your username.
Enter password when asked.
Then, type:
ls -al /dev/ttyUSB0
You should get something like this:
(https://i.servimg.com/u/f35/18/91/78/64/image11.png)
You should be able to see a port with the Reader.
If not, next step is:
sudo chmod 666 /dev/tts/USB0
Create a symlink:
sudo ln -s /dev/tts/USB0 /dev/ttyUSB0
Alternatively, try running Reader with sudo
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Beetle, Do you have a map for a 09 California Vintage ?
Thanks
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I have a couple. Stock Exhaust?
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What's Linux? Isn't that an old abandoned platform from the 80's?? surprised to see people still using it. Surely we dont have sweat pants wearing cheeto stained fingers basement dwellers in WG... :grin: :popcorn:
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I have a couple. Stock Exhaust?
Great and yes stock exhaust.
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I wonder if anybody can confirm, for 2016 Audace and Eldorado I need 3-pin set https://bit.ly/2VNcZqn (https://bit.ly/2VNcZqn), correct?
Thanks!
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I wonder if anybody can confirm, for 2016 Audace and Eldorado I need 3-pin set https://bit.ly/2VNcZqn (https://bit.ly/2VNcZqn), correct?
Thanks!
Confirmed.
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I've used Linux for the last 10 years and I don't own any sweatpants and I don't particularly care for Cheetos...and the very Internet you are on is run on Linux...
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Confirmed.
Thank you Kiwi Dave. I ordered the cables but still on the fence as far as remapping ECU on my bikes. The last experiment with GuzziTech fueling kit happened to be very stressful and expensive. At this time not ready for any more experiments but using GuzziDiag as diagnostic tool appears very tempting.
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I am stuck trying to download a new map. I believe I successfully backup the old map, at least it all seemed to work accordingly.
I have a V7II. The ECU is MIU G3. I am using a MAC and downloaded the appropriate reader and writer:
IAWMIUG3WriterV0.02
IAWMIUG3ReaderV0.04
When I start the writer and click on the ... I get a dialogue box but I can't find any .bin files. They are all located on my desktop. Here is a screenshot of what I see. There is really nothing in that dialogue box that is recognizable to me??
(https://i.ibb.co/YPrggh1/Screen-Shot-2019-05-14-at-11-16-46-AM.png) (https://ibb.co/YPrggh1)
yahtzee electronic game (https://freeonlinedice.com/)
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This seems to be a recurring issue with Mac users and the desktop. Check the file is actually on the desktop with Finder. You could also try putting the .bin file in another known folder, then navigate to that folder with the Writer dialog box.
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The .bin file shows up in finder as being on the desktop. I made a copy of the .bin and saved it to a directory I could find on the computer. But when I run the Writer dialogue box, it does not show any .bin files in either location?
If fact, everything seems to show up in the dialogue box EXCEPT .bin files. Maybe that's a clue?
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IIRC, a .bin file is also some type of Mac specific compressed file. You may need to check the settings to make sure they're not "hidden" by the OS.
Are you running the Writer from the desktop, or the applications folder?
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I am running the writer from the desktop. I get what you are saying about the .bin files maybe being hidden by the OS, but not sure how to check that. They are certainly visible on the desktop and in Finder?
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You may need to set the permissions on the .bin file to allow the Writer to see them. I believe you should run the GuzziDiag programs from the Applications folder.
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Mark, thanks for all your help but I am not having any luck. I have tried everything I can think of and the writer just can't see the map files. That includes the existing map file that I saved off the bike with the reader, which seemed to work fine. The fact that I could save the existing map implies to me that my computer and cables are working.
Is there anybody else out there with a MACBook that has had success? Any tips you can offer?
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IAW 15 RC CONNECTION
Hi guys. Lots of doubts.
NEVADA 750 IE 2006 IAW 15 RC-CA
I have an ECU IAW 15 RC-CC and I want to connect it to the PC without being mounted on the bike. It's possible?
pin 9 K line, pin 10 L line, pin 17 + 12v, pin 24 -12v, pin 26 (+ 12v-key)
It is right?
I try but GuzziDiag's answer is: Ignition off.
Is it protected for connection?
Thank you.
Sorry, my English null, I live in Spain and use Google translator to communicate. :cry:
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It should be possible.
Try grounding pin 23 as well.
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Ok, so ill admit I didn't read every post... but most, and I did skim. :)
I see the link to the cables.. and that will work, but has anyone had any luck finding cables that work on amazon?.. The only reason I ask is I have a few cards, and free money is free money. :)
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Ok, so ill admit I didn't read every post... but most, and I did skim. :)
I see the link to the cables.. and that will work, but has anyone had any luck finding cables that work on amazon?.. The only reason I ask is I have a few cards, and free money is free money. :)
OK, so I ended up ordering the cables in the link on the first post. Really one of the best values out there, and even shipping them to me on the other side of the Atlantic, its still one of the cheapest options. So while those are on a plane heading to the east coast of the US, I need to download GD. A few things... Any issues with GD running on windows 10 at all? I ask because my computer is kinda on the fritz right now, so I will be downloading it on my wifes… Ya, I really don't want to mess up her computer... that would be bad!!
Next maps?... Whats the protocol? Adapt the stock one? find someone with the same combo? buy a new one?.. I have a 02 California stone. It has a Feracci crossover, LaFanconi Competizione mufflers, and a open airbox lid. It is clearly running like its not fueling correctly so Im pretty sure the past owners that did the mods didn't map it.
I cant wait to get her running like I know she should be!!!!!
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I've had zero issues using Guzzidiag on a win 10 computer.
There's lots of maps available for Guzzi on the interweb, some free, some stupidly expensive. You could try contacting Beetle at griso.org, see the earlier post re maps for a Vintage. But your model is different, the Vintage is basically a Cali 1100 with a Breva head. Mark may have something to offer.
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No issues with Windows 10.
Send me a PM. I have made a few 1100 Cali maps. I'll send you a couple.
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No issues with Windows 10.
Send me a PM. I have made a few 1100 Cali maps. I'll send you a couple.
Sounds good. On its way.
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Hi Alana-- I know you posted over a month ago but I will shed what little light I have anyway. I had the same issue when using a MacBook Pro laptop. It would seem that Mac’s archive files by default hence the no show when you go looking to write the new map. The files appear to be present on the desktop and even seem to be there when put into a dedicated folder yet remain stubbornly invisible when you try to access them. My solution was to give up on the Mac altogether and switch to using a PC laptop. Once I did this everything flowed exactly as outlined in the tutorial. There probably is a way to use the Mac but I don’t know it!. Trust this is of some use.
Das
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Well after many attempts I can NOT get the 15M reader to download,and work... Anyone else have issues? GD seems fine, and the writer as of yet seems to work, but I cant get the reader to work. Anything I might be missing?
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Well after many attempts I can NOT get the 15M reader to download,and work... Anyone else have issues? GD seems fine, and the writer as of yet seems to work, but I cant get the reader to work. Anything I might be missing?
You have to close Guzzidiag before you can run the reader or writer.
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So, GD connects & you see data?
Make sure you don't have GD open at the same time as the Reader.
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It wont even load the program from the download....With digging more it seems the virus protection is stopping it... So I gotta poke around in there, and tell it to like it.
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So, GD connects & you see data?
Make sure you don't have GD open at the same time as the Reader.
and yes, GD is loaded, and works fine. It was not open when I tried to load the reading program.... Just for giggles, I tried to load the write program.. it seemed to be ok, but nope.... it doesn't work either. It seems the virus program is grabbing them... its a new computer, so I need to poke around a bit in it.. If anyone has had issues with McAffe on windows 10 leading the programs, how did you get it working?
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PhfenOmenal!!! GRAZIE MILE!
Bross from AdvRider gave me this link and I am most grateful to people like you who share their knowledge and acceptance that some of us are just, well...Klueless!
I'll download, get the cables, and am eager to try this out.
Thanks a whole bunch!!!
Nicolai
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Mark, thanks for all your help but I am not having any luck. I have tried everything I can think of and the writer just can't see the map files. That includes the existing map file that I saved off the bike with the reader, which seemed to work fine. The fact that I could save the existing map implies to me that my computer and cables are working.
Is there anybody else out there with a MACBook that has had success? Any tips you can offer?
Any luck?
I'm late to the party, but yes, I use a MacBook Pro (latest OS) to run GuzziDiag (v0.46) from Launchpad or the Applications folder. I've never had a problem finding the .bin files. Can't help more than that, sorry.
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and yes, GD is loaded, and works fine. It was not open when I tried to load the reading program.... Just for giggles, I tried to load the write program.. it seemed to be ok, but nope.... it doesn't work either. It seems the virus program is grabbing them... its a new computer, so I need to poke around a bit in it.. If anyone has had issues with McAffe on windows 10 leading the programs, how did you get it working?
From the interwebs:
Remove Item From Threat List
Step 1
Launch the program interface for your McAfee anti-virus application, such as Antivirus Plas, Internet Security or Total Protection.
Step 2
Click the "Navigation" tab on the main screen.
Step 3
Scroll down and click "Quarantined and Trusted Items."
Step 4
Click "Quarantined Items" to view the list of potential threats found and quarantined by McAfee. If the items have been identified by McAfee as unwanted programs, click "Quarantined Potentially Unwanted Programs" instead.
Step 5
Select the file or item for which you want to create an exception.
Click "Restore." McAfee removes the item from quarantine and creates an exception so that the item no longers shows up as a threat during scans.
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It wouldn't allow me to restore... I went to the "this old tractor" site and the link was there, so tried, and it worked!! I got the stock map read... now working on writing the new.
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All up and working! Thanks all for the help! New map is a huge improvement. It feels like the last guzzi I rode 20 years ago now!!
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Folks, I'm a newbie, have no internet connection other than my phone, am fairly clueless about computers, etc... and thanks to these wonderful instructions
EVEN I WAS ABLE TO RESET MY TPS THANKS TO GUZZIDIAG!
I have a 2013 Stelvio, a windows 10 laptop (I dreamt of learning Linux, but failed miserably), and the cables (one from LoneTec the other on eBay); when first connected, the TPS read 5; after resetting (following the throttle open/close procedure) it is now at 4.6 which is in the normal range.
I have yet to understand most of the stuff that this electronic material enables, but this infinitesimal step for mankind is like reaching the moon to me. THANKS!!!
In case it's of use, the access code for my 2013 Stelvio NTX (8 valvole) is 10695 (someone had a list on this thread - perhaps you can add this if it makes sense).
Now I'll go for a ride to see if the backfiring has reduced.
DO NOT FEAR THE ELECTRONICS! IF YOU FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY, YOU CAN DO IT (this thread can help - stolen motto from Home Depot ;-)
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Hey Beetle,
Was wondering why there's no Linux version of the 7SM Writer?? Three laptops here, all running Linux...
Jim
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Hi all.
What info does GuzziDiag reader extract in the 20 minutes it takes for it to download from the bike? I successfully used it for TPS reset and I am curious to explore other possibilities - I'm still skiddish of trying to improve performance (I've read horror stories of people who uploaded maps without knowing what they were doing), but I'd love to be able to do in depth diagnosis of potential failures (electrical malfunctions for instance).
As always, all input warmly welcome!
:weiner:
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The IAWReader reads the map from the ECU and saves it in a binary file. It also writes a text file with map information.
Oh yeah, the reason it takes so long is that it does CRC checks.
15x ECU 1 minute
5AM 5 minutes
MIU G3 15 minutes
7SM 30 minutes.
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Was wondering why there's no Linux version of the 7SM Writer?? Three laptops here, all running Linux...
Writing to the 7SM is timing sensitive. Not everyone is a computer nerd like you & I, and there is real concern about people bricking their ECU. It's happened.
I believe default latency for FTDI hardware drivers is 16mS. For recovery mode, it needs to be as low as 1mS. Setting that in Windoze is easy. Well, not super easy, but it does not require the editing of config files.
I've asked the author of GuzziDiag if he is willing to let me test the Linux version.
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Updated:
Throttle values for V7III & V9
California 1100 & Bellagio TPS information
CO trim
V85tt ECU
7SM virtual machine warning
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Updated:
Throttle values for V7III & V9
California 1100 & Bellagio TPS information
CO trim
V85tt ECU
7SM virtual machine warning
I'm feeling a little thick this morning, Mark. Where are these updates?
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Posts 1, 3, 5 & 7.
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Hell, I was looking on https://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/ for new versions. :embarrassed:
I gotta keep remembering to take the tablets!
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Just ordered up the Lonelec OBD connector for my soon to arrive V85, I assume it will work with the other half of the setup that I use to connect my Stelvio and V7? Anyways thanks beetle for all the work and your map that was so good in my V7 (I say was only because I sold the bike this week).
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Should do. The OBD2 standard connector hasn't changed, only the connection to the bike.
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Mine's working, but only with Guzzidiag set to California 1400. I'm hoping there will be more smarts when the V85 model specific is released.
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Probably not. The V85 7SM uses the same instruction set as the Cali. Indeed, all 7SM units, including Aprilia RSV4 & Tuono, et al.
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Probably not. The V85 7SM uses the same instruction set as the Cali. Indeed, all 7SM units, including Aprilia RSV4 & Tuono, et al.
Correct, we do have an PADS now and that shows no special new things for the V85 that the Cali 1400 didn't have. The new V85 connector holds CAN lines too, so there is a connection to the dash too now. So in theory it could be possible to reset the service light for the v85. But for that is time needed.
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In checking faults in my Norge GT, I found PO115 too high, PO135 too low, and PO141 too low. 115 is engine temp, 135 is Lambda sensor, and I can't find anything on 141. Any pearls of wisdom for me with 135 and 141?
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141 is also a lambda sensor error. 135 left, 141 right.
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Thanks.
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The Red Triangle Of Death is still coming on sporadically. I'll hook the computer up after lunch. I suspect the Lambda sensors again.
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Same three faults as before. Any reason I can't just ignore this?
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Same three faults as before. Any reason I can't just ignore this?
I wouldn't. They can potentially affect fuel delivery. If you have a factory map, errors with the lambda sensors can affect fueling below 4000 RPM. The engine temperature sensor will affect fueling across the entire rev range, regardless of what map you are running.
You might want to check the harness and wiring to the probes and sensor.
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Yes, it has the factory as far as I know. It has an Agostini slip on that was on it when I bought it. No idea if it was remapped for that.
It just started with the warning light last week after I've put 15,000 miles on it. Currently it has 21,000.
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Is there any way to turn off the Lambda sensors through Guzzidiag ?
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No. You'll need to use map editing software.
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I'd like to take the opportunity to thank Beetle and anyone else responsible for Guzzidiag. I finally got the courage to reset the TPS on my Breva 750 AND my 09 Stelvio and do the TB synch. Everything went exceedingly well, I now have both running smoother than they ever have and have a lot more confidence doing it again when necessary. :bike-037:
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I took care of the RTOD by disconnecting the battery for a bit. That rebooted the system. All good for now.
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I would like to try guzzidiag with my Ducati, which has Marelli IAW7SM ECU.
But my Marelli 3 pin connector only has 2 connected wires:
GND and K-Line (serial), there is no L-Line.
I looked up some Guzzi schematics, and there 3pin connector has also only 2 wires: GND and K-Line.
Do I have to connect the K-Line to pin 7 of the obd connector and leave pin 15 unconnected?
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You're overthinking this. Just confirm your polarity is the same (why wouldn't it be?), and connect it.
You should use IAWDiag.
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Just a quick question - Breva1200, factory map, stock everything - is there any point in adjusting CO trims in Guzzidiag or will the ECU simply retrim to its own parameters ?
Glenn
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Nope. Stock map being closed loop trying to adjust the trims achieves nothing. Resetting the 'Self learning parameters' will restore the trims to factory baseline, that's all.
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Thanks Pete.
Glenn
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Downloaded Guzzidiag to my Mac to reset the TPS on my V85 after installing the heated grips. When I open the application it dies immediately. This is on an old MacBook Air running High Sierra. Tried it on a newer MacBook Pro with the same result.
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There is no TPS function to reset with the 7SM system. You do 'Handle' and 'Throttle' self learning which is the calibration for the demand sensor but if the system is working as it should just leave it alone.
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Guzzi’s instructions for the grip install say to reset the TPS, as the demand sensor is replaced with the grips. I’ll see how it runs without the reset.
Was really just wondering if there’s an issue with the Mac version of GuzziDiag. I can’t get it to run on either my personal or work laptop.
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I believe this is a fairly common issue with Macs. Dunno what the solution is, sorry.
If you're installing the grips then doing the retraining is probably a good idea.
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For Mac, you need to put GuzziDiag in the applications folder.
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Thanks, Beetle. That did it.
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Unfortunately, I’m still not feeling the love from GuzziDiag. I get a blue light on the Loneloc cable, GuzziDiag shows a comm port, but it just won’t connect. Not sure what the issue is.
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Have you installed the drivers?
OSX 10.9 and higher drivers:
http://griso.org/FTDIUSBSerialDriver_v2_4_2.dmg
OSX 10.3 a 10.8 drivers:
http://griso.org/FTDIUSBSerialDriver_v2_2_18.dmg
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Thanks, Beetle. I’ll try that tomorrow.
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Have you installed the drivers?
OSX 10.9 and higher drivers:
http://griso.org/FTDIUSBSerialDriver_v2_4_2.dmg
OSX 10.3 a 10.8 drivers:
http://griso.org/FTDIUSBSerialDriver_v2_2_18.dmg
for a Mac, are the drivers also installed in the applications folder?
on a windows machine, should all the downloaded software be installed in the same folder?
Thanks in advance!
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MacOS installs the drivers wherever MacOS installs that stuff. You simply open the DMG file that you downloaded, and run the PKG installer by clicking on the file.
For Windows, GuzziDiag will run from anywhere. It doesn't need to be "installed". I usually put them all in the one folder for convenience.
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The program needs write access to the directory.
Windows: don't copy them below c:\Programms
Best: make a new folder below the home directory
This is valid for all OS.
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First of all , "Thank you fellers for all this input" :grin:
So , I had an opportunity to hook-up my V-9 to my computer today for the first time . I was able to save a copy of my map . :grin:
All went good till , it came time to pick a bike ... mine wasn't listed ? in fact neither of my bikes were listed the V-7II or the V-9 .
So ... Where did I go wrong ?
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You should select V7 Stone or V7 Special. For all intents & purposes, ECU-identical to the V9 & V7III.
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:cool:
Beetle , you are so appreciated ! If we are ever at the same place at the same time , your going to have to let me buy you lunch . :smiley:
My V-9 (Pearl) currently has no problems .
Will the Guzzi Diag. "Program" a spare Key ? I have one that came from "Keys for your Ride" , its Pre-Cut and is Chipped for the V-9. I can use it for a spare now ... but I have to enter my code every time and a light flashes the entire time.
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No, it can’t. The new key will need to be programmed by a dealer. I’m pretty sure you can’t program it via the dash like some other models.
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I'm just about to make my own connector cable for my '07 Breva 750. I think these are the connections, can anyone confirm?
Diag connector:
Guzzi Red wire - from ECU pin 10 - L-line - to OBD2 pin 15
Guzzi Brown wire - from ECU pin 9 - K-line - to OBD2 pin 7
Guzzi Blue wire - Ground - to OBD2 pin 4 and 5
Separate:
Guzzi +12V - to OBD2 pin 16
Is a separate ground wire needed from the battery, or is the Blue wire sufficient?
Thanks
Gonzo
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...And can anyone confirm if the ELM327 v1.5a works with GuzziDiag? I know the unit works, as I've used it with Ubuntu and my Hyundai, but I want to know if there's something special about GuzziDiag that might make it not work.
Thanks in advance...
Gonzo
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Diag connector:
Guzzi Red wire - from ECU pin 10 - L-line - to OBD2 pin 15
Guzzi Brown wire - from ECU pin 9 - K-line - to OBD2 pin 7
Guzzi Blue wire - Ground - to OBD2 pin 4 and 5
Separate:
Guzzi +12V - to OBD2 pin 16
Is a separate ground wire needed from the battery, or is the Blue wire sufficient?
Looks right. No separate ground required.
And can anyone confirm if the ELM327 v1.5a works with GuzziDiag? I know the unit works, as I've used it with Ubuntu and my Hyundai, but I want to know if there's something special about GuzziDiag that might make it not work.
No, it won't.
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Thanks Beetle.
Will have to get a different one.
Gonzo
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You can't use a dongle. Needs to be a hard serial connection.
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Not sure what you mean by "hard serial". I was going to get a USB to OBD2 adapter with the built-in serial chip (as discussed in this tutorial). Do you mean don't get a wireless one?
Gonzo
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Do you mean don't get a wireless one?
Yes. Sorry for any confusion.
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I have a 2017 Griso ,and the original owner that I got it from had a Beetle map installed. The bike runs great, but I was wondering, if I need to take it to the dealer for warranty work, should I take out the beetle map before taking the bike in? I am wondering if they would make issue, or make a note on their computers that would affect my warranty? Would they be able to tell my bike has a beetle map?
Another question, If needed, where would I get the "stock map" from to load it into the bike's ecu?
Thanks
Rick.
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Yes. They can tell if they bother to look. There's a way around it, however. The Writer has two text boxes where you can enter the date and tester values. The Writer "stamps" the map with these values. You can use a date more suited to the manufacture date, and a 'tester' name that won't alert them. The PO may or may not have done this when loading the map. If you connect with GuzziDiag, the values will be listed in the 'information' box.
I can send you a factory map, but you will have the same issue, unless you enter a date more representative of the bikes manufacture, and a 'tester' name that won't give away your terrible secret.
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:bow: :bow:
Yes. They can tell if they bother to look. There's a way around it, however. The Writer has two text boxes where you can enter the date and tester values. The Writer "stamps" the map with these values. You can use a date more suited to the manufacture date, and a 'tester' name that won't alert them. The PO may or may not have done this when loading the map. If you connect with GuzziDiag, the values will be listed in the 'information' box.
I can send you a factory map, but you will have the same issue, unless you enter a date more representative of the bikes manufacture, and a 'tester' name that won't give away your terrible secret.
:bow:
Kin suave
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Yes. They can tell if they bother to look. There's a way around it, however. The Writer has two text boxes where you can enter the date and tester values. The Writer "stamps" the map with these values. You can use a date more suited to the manufacture date, and a 'tester' name that won't alert them. The PO may or may not have done this when loading the map. If you connect with GuzziDiag, the values will be listed in the 'information' box.
I can send you a factory map, but you will have the same issue, unless you enter a date more representative of the bikes manufacture, and a 'tester' name that won't give away your terrible secret.
Thats awesome, Beetle! Its always good to have an "Ace in the hole" :laugh: in case the situation arises. I already have a "tester" "name ready to go. how does Riccardo Sarducci sound?
Rick.
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:laugh: :evil:
Tee hee! I don’t think that’ll hold water. For Griso’s, I suggest “salaprovag” (without the quotes, of course).
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I read the tutorial, received my Lonelec device and connectors, plugged them into the bike and my Linux 64 laptop and .... it all works first time!
OK, so now what do I do with this?
What should I tweak or check on my 07 Breva 750 (completely stock incl exhausts)?
Is there a better map?
Gonzo
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Please pardon the ignorance...
I am an IT guy so the instructions seem right as rain. But I am new to Guzzi and not much of a gear head (willing to learn anything).
What I am wondering is the scope of the various software.
I understand that if you are looking to solve an issue (throttle / idle / ECU) or have swapped to a new exhaust this can become important. What other information will this setup give me? Is a full diagnostics suite that can assist in running down other issues?
Thanks for the patience!
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OK, so now what do I do with this?
You can check & clear DTC's (errors). Test some things. Look at sensor readings, etc.
What should I tweak or check on my 07 Breva 750 (completely stock incl exhausts)?
Throttle body balance & TPS reset is a good place to start
Is there a better map?
Probably not.
Is a full diagnostics suite that can assist in running down other issues?
Yes.
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Not like I needed a reason to get / make more cables. :evil:
Thanks beetle, this is going to be fun!
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You can check & clear DTC's (errors). Test some things. Look at sensor readings, etc.
Throttle body balance & TPS reset is a good place to start
Thanks beetle.
I did the TPS reset and reset of the throttle learning, and it now looks like:
(https://gonzos.net/guzzi/guzzidiag-2019-12-22.png)
What does your previous advice of 3.6 for the Breva throttle refer to?
Gonzo
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I did the TPS reset and reset of the throttle learning, and it now looks like:
I presume you mean autolearning?
What does your previous advice of 3.6 for the Breva throttle refer to?
3.1 is in spec.
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Thanks beetle.
I'll actually take it for a ride tomorrow.
Gonzo
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Guzzi’s instructions for the grip install say to reset the TPS, as the demand sensor is replaced with the grips. I’ll see how it runs without the reset.
Was really just wondering if there’s an issue with the Mac version of GuzziDiag. I can’t get it to run on either my personal or work laptop.
Hi, any luck with this? I put heated grips on my v85 and it seems to run fine without resetting the TPS, however, I live in fear of something going wrong later on and would rather not take it to the dealer. I have the lonelec cables from my Norge, still waiting for the adapter. I also use a Mac, but did have connection issues with my Norge but did manage to get it to work after much fiddling.
Thanks for any advice, Kris
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Hi, any luck with this? I put heated grips on my v85 and it seems to run fine without resetting the TPS, however, I live in fear of something going wrong later on and would rather not take it to the dealer. I have the lonelec cables from my Norge, still waiting for the adapter. I also use a Mac, but did have connection issues with my Norge but did manage to get it to work after much fiddling.
Thanks for any advice, Kris
I’ve tried everything I can think of and have had no luck with my Mac. Will not connect.
Need to borrow a windows machine and try again.
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I’ve tried everything I can think of and have had no luck with my Mac. Will not connect.
Need to borrow a windows machine and try again.
Or just install a dual boot (bootcamp?) or a virtual machine qith W10. You can install W10 just from download from microsoft, works without license, might complain after a while.
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Hi Beetle,
I really appreciate your contribution with this tutorial!
At the top of the TPS reset tutorial you mention that the v11's as an exception. I didn't see any mention on the 1100's in the "Thoughts on TPS" post (unless I'm missing something :rolleyes:). Does the TPS need to be reset on an 1100 (I have a 2000 Jackal)? Does this require different steps?
Thanks!
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Huh? I mention the 1100 twice. In the "thoughts" post, & TPS reset post. I thought it was clear? Maybe not? I'll edit it.
No, do not reset the TPS on the 15x ECU on any 1100 or California variant.
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Huh? I mention the 1100 twice. In the "thoughts" post, & TPS reset post. I thought it was clear? Maybe not? I'll edit it.
No, do not reset the TPS on the 15x ECU on any 1100 or California variant.
Gah, I must have missed it then. Lots of jumping between posts, sorry. Thanks for clarifying!
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First time post, just got access to forum this morning. I been following Beetle/Guzzidiag. I have a 2012 V7R, it has mistral carbon exhaust, baffled, 15RC, dual throttle bodies. Ordered the cables and over the weekend download and saved the original map. And I uploaded the v7c lamda off nopop Beetle map. The bike ran better, I assume that the original map was factory, not sure but the CRC was 505C. The bike runs better, more alive through the rev ranges after. I play with both co trim +3 and +4.
I have some follow up questions:
1. I notice +4 had more pops vs +3, when I come off throttle to a stop. let me know if that observation is even accurate.
2. does the co trim only affect idle mixture or it's in affect all the time through the rpm range?
3. is the idle rpm fully control by the ecu? The bike idle a little low bounce between 950-1050, when warm
4. if idle rpm fully control by ecu, is it better to adjust the throttle with a little play or no play? or even positive play? b/c either way, we are resetting the TPS?
side note the bike wants to die at start, warm or cold(worst), but I will post a different thread. This thread alone was so helpful, I donate $10 to the forum, thanks for sharing all the information.
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1. I notice +4 had more pops vs +3, when I come off throttle to a stop. let me know if that observation is even accurate.
Quite likely. CO trim adds a fixed time to the real-time injection pulse, so this behaviour is not unusual.
2. does the co trim only affect idle mixture or it's in affect all the time through the rpm range?
Entire RPM range.
3. is the idle rpm fully control by the ecu? The bike idle a little low bounce between 950-1050, when warm
Yes. It uses the ignition advance, but it's highly dependent on the throttle position.
4. if idle rpm fully control by ecu, is it better to adjust the throttle with a little play or no play? or even positive play? b/c either way, we are resetting the TPS?
You want minimal play without affecting the throttle. That is, the butterfly must be closed with the twist grip fully closed. Moving the bars fully left to right should have no affect on the throttle.
side note the bike wants to die at start, warm or cold(worst), but I will post a different thread. This thread alone was so helpful, I donate $10 to the forum, thanks for sharing all the information.
First, have you balanced the throttle bodies? If not, do so, including TPS reset. TPS should be 3.1-3.6.
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First, have you balanced the throttle bodies? If not, do so, including TPS reset. TPS should be 3.1-3.6.
The TB was balanced in Dec 2019 at 3500 RPM and at idle. and yesterday I balance the idle only. Since I haven't touch the linkage screw it should remains the same for 3500 RPM. Yesterday, I did the new map, then TB balance at idle, then TPS reset. It usually sits at 3.1. The idle issue has been there since I bought it in Nov 2019, it only has 3000 miles.
And I don't know if it's really an issue, maybe it's just guzzi. I am just not used to it. If I rode it for 30mins, park it for 15 mins, ambient temp is 55F, I have to choke it 1/8 to keep it from dying for 30-40sec. Or I sit there and rev it for maybe 30 sec until it steadies. I expect it to just start normally without any assistance and idle smoothly after a short stop in kinda warm weather.
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I can tweak the map for you, if you want?
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I can tweak the map for you, if you want?
Absolutely, if map tweak can fix this idling issue. If you can gloss over what's happening to cause this behavior, and why a map could fix would be good for general knowledge.
Also questions during CO trim, I read that I can do live adjustment but I want to clarify #6 below:
1. view>actors>CO Trim
2. <engine must be off> [click ok]
3. [click start]
4. <Gentlemen, Please start your engine!> [me start the bike] [click ok]
5. [me make changes to the CO trim]
6. at this point in time, the bike still running...
- I can just keep adjusting until I am happy with the idle
- keeping in mind to leave 20-30sec of observation btw adjustments
- so the CO trim is a live adjustment? and it's only saved to the ECU when we kill switch?
7. [me click done] [kill switch + and ignition off]
please lmk if my understanding on #6 is correct? Also is it worth getting a CO meter to help?
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The CO trim is a live adjustment. The final value is set when you click "done". Please wait ~20 seconds before you hit the kill switch.
I wouldn't bother with the CO meter. Simply set CO until the idle is steady. That's why it's best to wait between adjustments. It allows for any delays in response from the engine as the ECU makes changes.
If you have to set the CO so that the idle is good, but it smells of fuel, that's the point where I suggest tweaking the fuel map.
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Anyone in the Maryland area who has experience with GuzziDiag?
I will want to set up my 02 EV at some point in the near future.
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First time post. I picked up a 2016 Stornello with 6 miles on it a couple weeks ago. She seemed very cold blooded and didn't want to idle on her own. Once warmed up the bike ran fine. Thanks to GuzziDiag and this tutorial, I verified the V796 map is loaded on my bike, reset the throttle and auto-learning parameters. Now it starts almost immediately and settles into a even 1500 rpm idle - it's been below freezing here, so no time for a real ride.
I just wanted to thank Beetle for his work. I plan to ride the bike on the stock map until at least my break-in mileage is done. Then I'll decide which way to go.
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Hi all,
when you reset TPS following beetle advices (on a 5AM and a single throttle body), you just have to fire uo your engine ? wait for 1 minute at idle ? Wait until fan goes on ? Or no need to wait ==> startup engine and ride ?
Thanks
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Start & ride.
:thumb:
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Thank you for all of your hard work! I just ordered the cables for my 2018 v7iii !!
All the bikes will take the same cables I am hoping?
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All, except the V85tt. It has the new Euro5 connector.
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Hi,
On my Quota 1000 1997, P8 ECU, wich reader and wich writer should I use?
I couldn't find the propper one on the Guzzi Diag page - https://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/
Thanks
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The P8 doesn't have that capability. There is no Reader or Writer available.
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The P8 doesn't have that capability. There is no Reader or Writer available.
Which reader writer is needed for the V7? Am unsure what the differences between 5AM,7SM,MIU G3, 15, etc. ECU's are
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Your V7-III has the MIUG3 ECU.
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The P8 doesn't have that capability. There is no Reader or Writer available.
Thank you very much
In the meantime, I've managed to check my IAW P8 PF09 ECU, and I bother you with another question: what should be the correct voltage on TPS (Throttle V)? is the GuzziDiag reading correct or should I check with a voltmeter on TPS socket? The displayed value in GuzziDiag is 0.392 V for idle
And what is the correct setting for CO Trimm, initial was 97 and the engine seems to run smoother at 65, at 50 the engine almost stalled
(https://i.ibb.co/fk3cw37/IMG-20200228-WA0020.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fk3cw37)
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Don't use the voltage readout from GuzziDiag to set the TPS. The resolution isn't accurate enough to set the TPS. You can use the throttle value reading, however. If you want to set it via a voltmeter, connect directly to the TPS.
CO trim? Set it to wherever the bike runs best.
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For setting the closed throttle value of 150mV you can not use GuzziDiag, because the ECU starts sending this value from ~300mV onwards.
If you then want to set the idle value, you can use the normal throttle value in GuzziDiag and set it via the screw to the value which is written in the manual.
It doesn't matter if the value is exact or not, because the ECU use this value to find the map entries.
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Hey Beetle, I hope you happen to see this and are able to reply when time allows.
I treated myself this winter, and just picked up Mistral cross overs & exhausts for my 2003 V11 Lemans and 2008 California Vintage;
I'm hoping for your guidance as I intend to install new fuel maps in both those bikes, that will be a first for me :undecided:.
I didn't do the install myself it was by the previous owner; but I've already got one of your maps in my Griso 1100 2V and I'm very happy with it :thumb:
"Geoff from Almonte" kindly gave me 2 maps for the California Vintage "CaliforniaVintage-FU2-F6E3.2016.07.28" and "Geoff-CaliforniaVintage-FU2-4979.2016.06.21"
Are you familiar with these maps or how they would compare with the map you made up for Dan, for installation on my CalVin with the Mistrals?
Meinolf over on V11Lemans.com, generously made available his map for the V11 "2017.08.31_#93_6" and included a detailed baseline tune up guide for this map.
I'm sure the map is excellent, but he specs .3mm valve clearances for it; I can't remember exactly what they were, but I ran my California Vintage for a short while with the wider Raceco specs, and I wasn't overly impressed and went back to .15 & .20mm, which I'm planning to run on the V11 as well.
What would your sage advice be to me for fuel maps or the valve clearances if you want to dance in that minefield :evil:
I'm hoping to be able to do one, nice, neat permanent map install on each bike and not have to futz around with it again if possible.
Please feel free to pm me if you want to go over some of the fine details.
Tia
Kelly
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The map I made for Danny is the better of the Cali maps.
Set your valves at 0.15 & 0.2.
I also have a V11 Le Mans map you are welcome to try.
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The map I made for Danny is the better of the Cali maps.
Set your valves at 0.15 & 0.2.
I also have a V11 Le Mans map you are welcome to try.
Hey Beetle, Excellent, I will send you a pm,
tks very much
Kelly
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Hey Beetle, Excellent, I will send you a pm,
tks very much
Kelly
Kelly, the map mark made for my 07 CalVin is a great map. We tested it over several months in all of the seasons and conditions until it was flawless. You’ll love it!
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Kelly, the map mark made for my 07 CalVin is a great map. We tested it over several months in all of the seasons and conditions until it was flawless. You’ll love it!
Hey Dan, I think you were running a Mistral H crossover with the stock exhaust?
I'll have the same H pipe crossover with a pair of Mistral's Classic California exhausts; I'm hoping that can I get the map downloaded/installed and it runs well.
Tks for working with Beetle to get this map refined.
Kelly
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Just got my wires! If I purchase the ECU map from griso.org then it will get sent to my e-mail?
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It's automagic. A download link is generated and sent immediately to your email address.
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Does anyone know the current version of GuzziDiag?
Also, when I tried to download the 15RC writer for Mac listed at the start of this thread, the link did not work.
the 15RC reader link worked just fine. Any suggestions?
thanks in advance!
Ed
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Current version is 0.47.
The link for the Mac version of the 15x Writer did not match the actual link. On the GuzziDiag page it reads as 0.27, but the actual version is 0.26. I've fixed it. The download link now works.
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Current version is 0.47.
The link for the Mac version of the 15x Writer did not match the actual link. On the GuzziDiag page it reads as 0.27, but the actual version is 0.26. I've fixed it. The download link now works.
Thanks Beetle. You are the best. I have Lonelec cables. thanks again.
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Hi Beetle,
I downloaded GuzziDiag, reader and writer for Mac, and the cable drivers downloaded automatically. All the files check out with the right file names per your original post.
IIRC, you told someone previously that GuzziDiag had to be in the Applications file for Mac users. Is that correct?
I have not hooked up cable to my Mac, or the cables to my bike, but double clicking on GuzziDiag under applications, results in a message The application "GuzziDiag V0.47" can't be opened. Is this because the cables are not hooked up to the computer and.or the bike?
Do I need to hook up everything and then double click on the drivers file first?
Sorry for being an idiot and thanks for your help. Please provide a link where I can donate. thanks again!
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IIRC, you told someone previously that GuzziDiag had to be in the Applications file for Mac users. Is that correct?
I believe that is the case.
I have not hooked up cable to my Mac, or the cables to my bike, but double clicking on GuzziDiag under applications, results in a message The application "GuzziDiag V0.47" can't be opened. Is this because the cables are not hooked up to the computer and.or the bike?
No. You should able to open GuzziDiag without the cables being connected. When you get that message, does it mention "unknown developer"? If so you'll need to add GuzziDiag as an exception in Gatekeeper, or right-click and select "Open"
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I believe that is the case.
No. You should able to open GuzziDiag without the cables being connected. When you get that message, does it mention "unknown developer"? If so you'll need to add GuzziDiag as an exception in Gatekeeper, or right-click and select "Open"
No, I do not get any message about "unknown developer." Just the message as I typed it above. thanks in advance,
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What version of MacOS are you running?
What happens when you right-click and click open?
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What version of MacOS are you running?
What happens when you right-click and click open?
version 10.15.3
I have an apple Magic Mouse, so a right click is a control click. I get the standard options like open, show package contents, move to trash, etc.
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Stupid question..you have unzipped it, right?
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Stupid question..you have unzipped it, right?
With me, there are no stupid computer questions. I have not. I thought the Mac would do that automatically.
When I control click the file, one of the options is to compress it, so I thought it was unzipped.
In finder, the "kind" is application. I have seen other files listed as zipped.
Let me hit google about unzipping it. thanks again.
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it appears the file is unzipped.
if I control click on the file, and choose the drop down option to compress,
GuzziDiag_V0.47 (834 kb) becomes GuzziDiag_V0.47.zip (313 kb).
control clicking on the zipped file reverses this process.
I'll keep trying in the morning.
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when I download it from the link in the OP, it comes in as 309kb. When I go to finder, and look at it in the downloads folder it is 834 kb. according to what I have found on google, Mac should unzip the file automatically when I double click on it.
still a mystery. I must be missing something.
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Try drilling down into the app bundle folder and double click on the executable. If you right-click on the GuzziDiag app and "Show Package Contents", then drill down to "Contents:MacOS" and double-click the executable icon in that directory, you will also bypass launch services. Worth a try.
GuzziDiag_V0.47.app
│ └── Contents
│ ├── Info.plist
│ ├── MacOS
│ │ └── GuzziDiag_V0.47 <--- double click on this file
│ └── Resources
│ └── icon.icns
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Try drilling down into the app bundle folder and double click on the executable. If you right-click on the GuzziDiag app and "Show Package Contents", then drill down to "Contents:MacOS" and double-click the executable icon in that directory, you will also bypass launch services. Worth a try.
GuzziDiag_V0.47.app
│ └── Contents
│ ├── Info.plist
│ ├── MacOS
│ │ └── GuzziDiag_V0.47 <--- double click on this file
│ └── Resources
│ └── icon.icns
did it. now I get the message:
"there is no application set to open the document GuzziDiag_V0.47"
followed by: "search the App Store for an application that can open this document or use an existing application on your computer"
followed by 3 buttons:
1. choose application
2. cancel
3. search App Store
kinda surprised this would be considered a document.
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I ran the Unarchiver application on it to try to get it to work.
Now if I double click on anything related I get:
"GuzziDiag_V0.47 cannot be opened because it is from an unidentified developer. macOS cannot verify that this app is free from malware.
tomorrow is another day. computer are the only reason I don't like fuel injection. :sad:
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Right, now we're getting somewhere. You should be able to Ctrl-Click on it and select click 'Open'. That should start it and save it as an exception.
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Right, now we're getting somewhere. You should be able to Ctrl-Click on it and select click 'Open'. That should start it and save it as an exception.
Ironically enough, the bike is running perfectly. I'm just trying to see why the FI light is coming on after about 5 miles of riding. Bad temperature sensor?
I really do appreciate your assistance and persistence beetle! Mucho thanks!
after a ctrl-click and a select click "open" I get the following:
The application "GuzziDiag V0.47.app" can't be opened.
I don't remember the suffix ".app" being on the file name in the previous message.
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Try drilling down into the app bundle folder and double click on the executable. If you right-click on the GuzziDiag app and "Show Package Contents", then drill down to "Contents:MacOS" and double-click the executable icon in that directory, you will also bypass launch services. Worth a try.
GuzziDiag_V0.47.app
│ └── Contents
│ ├── Info.plist
│ ├── MacOS
│ │ └── GuzziDiag_V0.47 <--- double click on this file
│ └── Resources
│ └── icon.icns
Looking at this file, the type is shown as "The Un...... cument"
I would expect the type to be shown as .exe.
If I control click on it, then select click "open," I get the message:
The contents of GuzziDiag_V0.47 can not be extracted with The Unarchiver.
What software do I need to open this?
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Mac executables (or binaries) don't have an extension .exe. That's just a Windows thing.
Don't Ctrl-Click on the binary. Double-click it.
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Mac executables (or binaries) don't have an extension .exe. That's just a Windows thing.
Don't Ctrl-Click on the binary. Double-click it.
If I double click on it, I get the message:
The contents of GuzziDiag_V0.47 can not be extracted with The Unarchiver.
Could you try sending an unzipped version of this to my private email address? I will send you a PM.
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Ed, you might need to give the MacOS permission to open the application. If it is an unknown developer, the operating system prevents it from being opened.
I'm doing this from memory- so I might be missing a step-
Try opening the application- you get the 'this app can't be opened' message.
close the message, open up System Preferences (the gear icon).
Open 'Security and Privacy' (house icon)
Click on the lock at the bottom left to make changes- put in your username/password
Then you can change 'Allow apps downloaded from....' and I think it may pop up with the GuzziDiag specifically.
I don't have GuzziDiag (yet), but I have gone through this with other apps.
Hope that helps-
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Ed, you might need to give the MacOS permission to open the application. If it is an unknown developer, the operating system prevents it from being opened.
I'm doing this from memory- so I might be missing a step-
Try opening the application- you get the 'this app can't be opened' message.
close the message, open up System Preferences (the gear icon).
Open 'Security and Privacy' (house icon)
Click on the lock at the bottom left to make changes- put in your username/password
Then you can change 'Allow apps downloaded from....' and I think it may pop up with the GuzziDiag specifically.
I don't have GuzziDiag (yet), but I have gone through this with other apps.
Hope that helps-
Thanks jrt. I appreciate your help and beetle's help.
I've tried that method several times after finding it on Google. GuzziDiag just will not open. I think I have gotten 4 different messages that all can be summed up as "go pound sand!"
In addition to "That application canned not be opened". there is the "No application exists on your computer to open" also "Application is from an unknown developer" and the last one was "Application maybe incomplete or damaged"
my Mac might be weird. Every time I have gone to google for help, about 90% of the Mac responses shown on the tutorial show up on my machine, but the remaining 10% needed to complete the function never show up.
I suspect this will be my last Mac. In a few days I will try to load GuzziDiag to an older Windows computer I have.
I'm planning to sell my Nevada 750 anyway, I just figured getting the EFI light to function properly will make the bike easier to sell.
Although with all the Corona Virus hysteria people are wallowing in, selling a motorcycle might be a bit difficult for a while.
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Hi,
Meinolf over on V11Lemans.com, generously made available his map for the V11 "2017.08.31_#93_6" and included a detailed baseline tune up guide for this map.
I'm sure the map is excellent, but he specs .3mm valve clearances for it;
I never recommended 0.3mm valve clearance for the V11 camshaft.
Cheers
Meinolf
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Hi,
I never recommended 0.3mm valve clearance for the V11 camshaft.
Cheers
Meinolf
Pm on the way
tks
Kelly
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Beetle,
I had a discussion with another Guzzi owner who can not run version 47 of GuzziDiag on his Mac with the latest OS. He has found a work around. Version 46 of GuzziDiag seems to run just fine.
Any ideas why?
Could you provide a link to download version 46?
Thanks in advance!
-
No, and, no.
I've made enquires. Stay tuned.
-
the good news is version 46 opens on my Mac.
the bad news is it is not the right version for my ECU.
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Huh? It should work fine with the 15RC. What bike have you selected?
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Huh? It should work fine with the 15RC. What bike have you selected?
The 5AM ECU popped up in the window (Stelvio 1200 IIRC). I thought there would be a drop down menu to pick the ECU, but that function did not work.
-
You have to click "File" -> "Preferences"
Use the dropdown from the dialog box that opens to select the bike.
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You have to click "File" -> "Preferences"
Use the dropdown from the dialog box that opens to select the bike.
When I click "File" the only option I get is "Connect."
-
GuzziDiag downloaded like a dream to a 10 year old Notebook running Windows7.
Using a new Mac to download software to use on an old bike is as problematic as using a laser to measure the straightness of your frame....
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So..using Windows now?
As for the Mac, look in the same folder that your running GuzziDiag from. There should be a file named GuzziDiag_V0.46.ini . Edit this file, and change line 6 (Modell) to Nevada 750 S.
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So..using Windows now?
As for the Mac, look in the same folder that your running GuzziDiag from. There should be a file named GuzziDiag_V0.46.ini . Edit this file, and change line 6 (Modell) to Nevada 750 S.
I'm using whatever I can get to work. Cresent wrenches, pliers, vise grips, whatever!
I can only take a machine, especially a computer....... telling me to "F**k Off!" just so many times. :wink:
When it comes to portable devices with a screen, my preference is for an Etch-A-Sketch!
But I do appreciate your help! Assuming of course you're human! :grin:
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Hi Beetle.
Thanks for doing the work to get this going. I've just loaded the V7II Stornello map onto my V7II special with Arrow exhaust. I've had the Lonelec kit for nearly a year, but it took this long to get the Arrow Exhaust mounted.
Loading the new map was a simple process when I followed the documentation. Performance wise, I noticed an immediate improvement starting cold. I hope I get a chance soon to see how it goes on some mountain roads.
One comment on the Tutorial, Maybe a few more words on setting up for Linux. I read your post here: https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=84489.msg1333294#msg1333294. The comment" With the cable plugged in and powered, check that you have this device: /dev/tts/USB0" led me down the wrong track for a while, It looks like you only need to have /dev/ttyUSB0 , which is the standard location for the USB port on my Linux Laptop (xubuntu 18.04).
The main point for Linux users would be to check you are part of the dialout group. Once I did this, everything was good.
The second point for some versions of Linux may be about setting up the symlink to /dev/ttyUSB0 if their USB appears somewhere else.
Thanks again and great effort.
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Bernd has released V0.48 of GuzziDiag. This release fixes some issues with resets on the 7SM.
I recommend California 1400 and V85tt owners who use GuzziDiag download it immediately. I also strongly recommend you backup your eeprom with the eeprom tool ASAP.
I will update the links in the first post when I get a chance.
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hi Beetle,
After the long delayed connection, "hook up" in hipster lingo, GuzziDiag said I had no faults (IIRC there were two catagories, actual and recorded) in my Nevada's system. I appreciate your help.
Are you aware of any software fixes that eliminated the random EFI light appearance?
thanks,
Ed
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Only the map fix Guzzi released., previously mentioned by guzzisteve in one of your threads.
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Only the map fix Guzzi released., previously mentioned by guzzisteve in one of your threads.
I talked to Guzzisteve about that. Since I have the older dash board, I should not load the updated Guzzi map.
He thought it might be possible to eliminate the unwanted and unwarranted EFI by disabling the O2 sensor. I assume the O2 sensor and the Lamda sensor are the same thing. IIRC, you created a map that eliminated the Lamda sensor. Is that included on the drop down menu of GuzziDiag_V0.47? If not where could I find that map?
thanks again.
-
If it was me, I'd send Beetle the map from your bike, then it has the correct dash info if it makes a difference for the older dash.
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If it was me, I'd send Beetle the map from your bike, then it has the correct dash info if it makes a difference for the older dash.
What do you think beetle? If I send the current map to you, can you do anything to it that might help? thanks again.
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I'm happy to take a look at the map, although just posting the text from the GuzziDiag ECU information box is probably all I need. I can make a lambda-off map for you if you want to try it.
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What year model is the Nevada? The earlier ones (like I assume you have got) don't have a Lambda.
On the later ones that might have a Lambda, won't there be an issue with just switching the lambda off?
On the CARC bikes IIRC, the raw map(s) was stupidly rich, and it was the lambda that corrected everything up to 40% throttle. To gain improvements over 40%, the procedure before Beetle appeared on the scene was to fit a wide band lambda controlling a power commander; autotune was an optional extra.
I think it's gonna need more than a Lambda switch off.
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I'm happy to take a look at the map, although just posting the text from the GuzziDiag ECU information box is probably all I need. I can make a lambda-off map for you if you want to try it.
I'll send you the information in a PM hopefully within the next couple days. Thanks again.
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What year model is the Nevada? The earlier ones (like I assume you have got) don't have a Lambda.
On the later ones that might have a Lambda, won't there be an issue with just switching the lambda off?
On the CARC bikes IIRC, the raw map(s) was stupidly rich, and it was the lambda that corrected everything up to 40% throttle. To gain improvements over 40%, the procedure before Beetle appeared on the scene was to fit a wide band lambda controlling a power commander; autotune was an optional extra.
I think it's gonna need more than a Lambda switch off.
It is a model year 2007, and there is a sensor in the cross over exhaust pipe. Maybe that is a F/A sensor?
Is the Lambda sensor the same beast as an O2 sensor?
-
(https://i.ibb.co/BrmtkLy/0426201113-00.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BrmtkLy)
Before the V7 arrived the Nevada had a Breva map in it. AND the dash. They made a newer dash, if you put the V7/NEVAD update map in older dash bike it BRICKs the ECU. Ask me how I know.
Went and got my notebook-- info from using TechnoResearch VDSTS
Nevada V75 part#6160139700 & calibration #3L09BN22
Breva V75 part#6160106000 & calibration #3L09BR40
V7 Cafe part#BC0103278A & calibration #3L10BN22
as far as I could tell Guzzi's mapping matched up to calibration info.
The V7/NEVAD map was released 9/15/09 for new dash issue.
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I'm happy to take a look at the map, although just posting the text from the GuzziDiag ECU information box is probably all I need. I can make a lambda-off map for you if you want to try it.
Here is the text from my ECU information box:
IAW15RCPF1C
61601.397.00
3L09BN22
Let me know what you think. thanks again!
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Yours doesn’t seem to be the latest release. I have 3L10BN22, which would be a later version. Do you want to read your map and send it to me. I will check it, and you might want to install the later version.
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Yours doesn’t seem to be the latest release. I have 3L10BN22, which would be a later version. Do you want to read your map and send it to me. I will check it, and you might want to install the later version.
Very interesting! I have read and saved my map. I will send you my map. Per GuzziSteve's post above, will you know by looking at my map if installing the 3L10BN22 map instead of the existing 3L09BN22 map will brick my ECU, since I have the older instruments?
thanks.
-
Hmm. Might not be a good idea then.
:violent1:
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Hmm. Might not be a good idea then.
:violent1:
My thoughts exactly.
So......you are saying that by looking at the existing map that:
A. you would not be able to tell if the updated map will brick my ECU?
or
B. you will be able to tell that he updated map will not brick my ECU?
Enquiring minds want to know!
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I won't be able to categorically say that the newer map will not brick your ECU, although I'm not sure why or how that could happen.
Send me the map. I will compare it to the maps I have. Worst case, I turn off lambda in your map. It may not run brilliantly, but if the EFI light doesn't come one, then you can assume your lambda probe is not functional.
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I won't be able to categorically say that the newer map will not brick your ECU, although I'm not sure why or how that could happen.
Send me the map. I will compare it to the maps I have. Worst case, I turn off lambda in your map. It may not run brilliantly, but if the EFI light doesn't come one, then you can assume your lambda probe is not functional.
Yeah, I can't imagine how a change in code could destroy hardware either, but I guess the guy that programs the Mission Impossible communication devices knows how to do it......
I'll send you the map. I appreciate you taking a look.
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Beetle knows what he's doing. The update V7/Nevad is what I was installing with the Axone when the ECU went bad.
-
The 3L09BN22 & 3L10BN22 maps have different ECU model numbers embedded in the file. I think erring on the side of caution is prudent.
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I reset an error code !!!
Over the weekend I went to Two Wheels of Suches on the V-9 . At one point I was on a dirt Forrest Trail with another guy. We were just Idling in 1st gear trying not to stir-up a dust ball and get the bikes dirty.
I mean 1st gear going down hill for a long time ... enough for the motor to heat up and the CHECK ENGINE light to come on. It stayed on till I hooked it to my computer today . :grin:
................... ................... ..
Now I have a question : Can I get the GuzziDiag program on my Android phone ? I've got the V-7II and a V-9 .
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Now I have a question : Can I get the GuzziDiag program on my Android phone ? I've got the V-7II and a V-9 .
No. But somebody might be clever enough to produce one. Then we'll all whine how much it's going to cost.
In the interim, a small PC like a microsoft surface pro works fine.
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Beetle, Thanks for your dedication!!
I'll be trying to install onto the ancient Panasonic Toughbook that also runs my software for the P8 computer of my '98 CaliEV based custom "1100S." We will see if it has enough processor and memory to handle Guzzidiag.
Any tips on installing from a thumb drive (I never connect the Toughbook to the internet- it's got other software that will try to auto-update and thus ruin)? I'll download the files to my daily use Mac, load onto the Windows-formatted thumb drive, then open on the Toughbook. I could also download to my Win10 machine at work if there's a problem with passing the downloads through a Mac.
Many thanks again!
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All the GuzziDiag downloads are zipped, so no special technique required. Just download & copy.
Simples!
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Beetle, could you please provide the link to the WinXP drivers?
As soon as I got home and dug out the old Toughbook, I saw it's running XP. Which I believe was required to run the Weber-Marelli diagnostic software for the P8 computers in my old EV's. THAT's why it shall not connect to the internet: XP is so vulnerable, and only Satan knows what auto-updaters Microsoft might have lurking that would spell the end for the old W-M software, not that it does much anyway.
Thanks again,
AdamZ
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Hello guys,
I did reflash my 1400 California Custom (slight enrich base maps). After reflash I did Reset autolearning parmeters, then Handle and Throttle self learning. Bike runs great, but bellow 3000 rpm there is problem. Sometimes throttle hanging about 3000 rpm. I made a video (note that hot starting issue is my common problem :D)
I tried reflash stock maps, problem still occur.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c4JK4MxizoU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c4JK4MxizoU)
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Hi All,
I have an ’03 V11 Lemans and have embarked on learning to use Guzzidiag. I would be grateful for any comments or thoughts you may have on the following.
- The ECM downloaded bin file is 64kb and it took about 10 minutes to download…..does the amount of time and file size sound reasonable?
- The throttle voltage is 0.412v (Guzzidiag), eng off & cold. TPS was previously set to 157mv. Does 0.412 Throt V. sound reasonable?
- The CO Trimm is -15 but cannot adjust until I get the timing sensor leak resolved & get to 60°C.
- I see where many here set their valves to 0.15mm Int & 0.20mm Exh. I’m interested the rationale behind increasing the valve clearance since
the shop manual indicates 0.1mm/0.15mm…mistake?
Thank you,
Art
-
- The ECM downloaded bin file is 64kb and it took about 10 minutes to download…..does the amount of time and file size sound reasonable?
Yes, that file size is correct. Also "yes" on the time.
- The throttle voltage is 0.412v (Guzzidiag), eng off & cold. TPS was previously set to 157mv. Does 0.412 Throt V. sound reasonable?
Do not use GuzziDiag to set the TPS voltage. The displayed resolution is good enough. You can, however, use the throttle angle.
- I see where many here set their valves to 0.15mm Int & 0.20mm Exh. I’m interested the rationale behind increasing the valve clearance since
the shop manual indicates 0.1mm/0.15mm…mistake?
No. Use 0.1 & 0.15.
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Hi Beetle,
Thanks for the response!
I'll leave valve clearances at OEM specs and I set the TPS to 157mv with a VOM.
Thanks again,
Art
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Hi Beetle,
I have some questions that I was hoping you might be able to answer for me. I set the CO trimm from -15 to zero because of something I read at the V11 Lemans Forum. Unfortunately when I was setting the CO I didn't realize I could toggle the settings with the engine running...enough so I could hear the impact of my changes. I guess I'll be checking that again.
Anyway, while reading the tutorial again, I'm confused about Reset Auto Learning Parameters and Throttle Self Learning. Should I have performed these "learning" steps before doing the CO Trimm?
Also, do these look relatively "normal"?
(https://i.ibb.co/GHWZMqC/20200519-095705.jpg) (https://ibb.co/GHWZMqC)
Thanks again,
Art
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The 15M doesn't have autolearning. Throttle self-learning is for single throttle body V7 & V9 bikes. You have nothing to reset on a 15M.
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BIG PROBLEM!!!
Ok, I got my cables from Lonelec yesterday and downloaded the apps from griso.org, bought V7III Factory exhaust map.
I installed the drivers from the beetle instructions download and connected up the cables to my Windows surface 1 running windows 10. All good device recognized.
I downloaded the factory map from the bike with no issues. Yay! Now for the problem part:
I left it all connected exactly as is. I use the EC writer program to load the unzipped V7III factory exhaust map. Connected OK, took awhile to write and a box popped up at the end, said Something went wrong, try again. Switch off ignition. closed program and tried again, this time when I turned the ignition on got an ALARM and redlight on Speedo. Tried to load it again a few times and then tried the factory back in there, no dice keeps failing and I have this hard alarm on speedo. Did anyone else have this problem? Right now I have a bricked bike!
(https://i.ibb.co/GcVvKBF/guzzi-alarm-speedo.jpg) (https://ibb.co/GcVvKBF)
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I've only seen one bricked MIUG3. That was due to user error. You seem to have done everything correctly, so something has gone wrong with communication. Battery OK?
I would suggest disconnecting the dash, attaching a battery tender, and try reflashing the stock map.
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The battery is ok, I had just gone around the block with it about 10 mins before. I sent you a separate email with the logs. I will connect up the tender and disconnect the gauges and try it again
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Welp, all fixed now. I ended up trying another laptop an older Dell I have, in place of the MS Surface pro 1. Loaded up the drivers for the cable, rebooted, installed the programs, wrote the factory map back in Success! and it all came back to normal. SO I wrote in the beetle map, and that was successful too. I had reloaded the drivers, rebooted, reextracted the programs and the beetle map, moved the maps to a different filesystem, to no avail. Read works just fine with the Surface, but not write. Go figure.
So a bit of excitement on a warm Florida Saturday night. Will do a short ride tomorrow and see how she does. Lessons learned:
1. The error shown is there when the reading or writing is going on. When it finishes successfully, you get the reset and needle bounce on the gauges and it all lights up like normal. If something goes wrong the thing will be stuck like that. But it is recoverable in that state.
2. Don't use a 7 year old MS surface that has been upgraded to Win10 (had 8 on it when I won it). I have used the thing with a number of USB to serial devices for serial connections to all kinds of devices without issue. Gremlins, it seems.
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I've had no problems with my Microsoft Surface Pro 1. And yes, it originally came with windows 8.
There's gotta be another reason.
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Where can I find previous versions of GuzziDiag?
I also use Macs, and can confirm that version 0.47 doesn't work with the latest OSX (currently 10.15). I'm aware of Apple's doofy right-click process for opening certain programs, and this program simply doesn't want to open. Also--the website says 0.48, but the download is 0.47, not sure why.
-
Are there any v9 maps, I didn’t see any on the web site?
-
Are there any v9 maps, I didn’t see any on the web site?
Yes. Which website?
-
Where can I find previous versions of GuzziDiag?
I'm sourcing a copy of 0.46 for MacOS. I'll PM you once I've got it.
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Where can I find previous versions of GuzziDiag?
I also use Macs, and can confirm that version 0.47 doesn't work with the latest OSX (currently 10.15). I'm aware of Apple's doofy right-click process for opening certain programs, and this program simply doesn't want to open. Also--the website says 0.48, but the download is 0.47, not sure why.
FWIW, I just successfully opened Guzzidiag 0.47 on my MacBook Pro running MacOS 10.15.5 (19F101), the latest developer beta.
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FWIW, I just successfully opened Guzzidiag 0.47 on my MacBook Pro running MacOS 10.15.5 (19F101), the latest developer beta.
Nice. Yeah, I’m currently using 10.15.4, and assume Sir Real Ed is too or an even earlier version.
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Where can I find previous versions of GuzziDiag?
I also use Macs, and can confirm that version 0.47 doesn't work with the latest OSX (currently 10.15). I'm aware of Apple's doofy right-click process for opening certain programs, and this program simply doesn't want to open. Also--the website says 0.48, but the download is 0.47, not sure why.
So- my disclaimer is that I have not installed or worked with GuzziDiag. But I have some other programs that are pretty old and don't run on the latest MacOS. For one of them, I can get it to boot and run by navigating to the program, right click and 'show package contents', go 'Contents -->MacOS', then right click on the program and select 'open with Terminal'. It will also open a terminal window, but just ignore it.
Now- I do not read and write onto very expensive engine management units, so fair warning there-
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Anyone running MacOS Catalina, you can download GuzziDiag V0.46 from my Dropbox:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gcdm6uwd8jei4hr/GuzziDiag_V0.46.app.zip?dl=0
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I just finished the install of one of Mark's maps on my 2001 Jackal/Bassa 1100 and am pleased to advise all that it was a home run. My bike is stock except I removed the stock pipes, got some aftermarket cans of the appropriate head pipe diameter and length, then removed the baffles but left the end caps in place. I still have the stock colostomy bag/crossover pipe so the sound is just about where I want it to be.
The installation went flawlessly and the bike runs absolutely superbly. I am so pleased with the newfound sound and performance enhancements. The torque delivery is so smooth all the way to red line, and there are no more pops, gurgles or hisses on tip in or off-throttle conditions. Mark is a genius, a gentleman and my new best friend. Thanks again.
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:laugh:
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Any stock V7III folks out there flash Mark's map recently? What can I expect?
Edit: And while I'm here I should ask:
I get that you do a throttle self learn but should I also do a TPS reset first on V7III or just verify that the value is .9-1.0 and only reset if it's outside this range?
P.S. Hope I'm asking the right questions! Thanks
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There's no TPS reset for the V7. The throttle self-learning is the V7 equivalent of a TPS reset. Throttle value for a V7-III should be 0.8 - 1.0.
Don't forget to reset the autolearning parameters as well.
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I've been using Mark's map for V7III with stock exhaust for a couple weeks now, and it is definite improvement over what mine (18 Special) came with. Much smother power delivery and accelerating, easier starting.
Best money I have spent on the bike so far. Buying the cables is a bit of a hassle, but worth is as well to have the right ones. But now I have a way of seeing what's going on in the engine as it's running If someone can figure out a way of resetting the wrench icon, (without bricking the ECU), the world will beat a path to their door.
I'd be interested to hear from other beetle maps users that have put Agostini slipons on their bikes and NOT deleted the SAS or evap can.
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The service due icon (wrench or spanner, depending on your locale) is now exclusively removed by the official service software. It's all done in the dash/instruments software, and we have no access to that. Nothing to do with the ECU.
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Oh right, now I see where you mentioned that before. Hmm, I will have to see if the local MG sort of dealer or former dealer can do that.
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Thanks for the feedback and answer. Just waiting on cables to arrive and get an afternoon to myself and gonna give this a go. I'm guessing small mods like EVAP removal won't have an impact on results with a beetle map?
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I'm guessing small mods like EVAP removal won't have an impact on results with a beetle map?
No.
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Just finished a two-hour ride on the Stornello with the Beetle map - awesome! The stumbling and popping are gone and the power delivery is very smooth. I'm quite impressed! I'm particularly impressed with the low speed usability of the new map, which is nice when I take my poor Stornello off road. In my opinion it was well worth the money!
There were a few stumbling blocks along the way. The first can be summarized by, "I have a Mac Airbook with Catalina OS." I never got V47 or the Reader or Writer to open. I spent about an hour and a half trying all sorts of Mac tricks from this forum and the web to no avail. Luckily, my wife took a lunch break and loaned me her Windows 10 machine and from start to finish I was done during her break. I run Parallels but have had problems with the Apple USBs in Windows and so didn't take a chance trying that route. I did not consider BootCamp.
I ordered the Lonelec cables and they took 10 days to get to Connecticut. No issues. There was a slight delay while I hunted for the diagnostic port (under the seat next to the USB accessory plug.)
The instructions were generally clear and were easy to follow. The throttle position sensor showed 1.2-1.3 which then corrected to 1.0-1.2. I was a little surprised how low the rpm dropped right after starting and thought for sure that it was going to die, but it didn't and quickly idled nicely at around 1400-1500.
I'm pleased! Now I just have to figure out how to reduce the compression damping in the forks...
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On Griso.org, the map for Norge GT 8v says GPR exhaust. What does the GPR stand for?
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What does the GPR stand for?
Do a Google search. Not that hard!
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Okay, my 2004 750 Breva just started running TERRIBLE the first time I cranked it after a 150 mile ride 5 days ago. I am not too smart but maybe I can muddle through the diagnosis with the help of your tutorial and maybe solve the long-standing slow warm-up problem the bike has when the ambient temp is below about 60-deg F. I have ordered the cables from UK.
I have a question: Why does my ECU have a sticker-over-the-sticker? It is mostly unreadable and I would peel it off but thought I would ask first if it means something just that it is there in the first place.
(https://i.ibb.co/hDj0f2z/IMG-1172.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hDj0f2z)
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Maybe the sticker was added by the importer.
At -60°F, your bike might not be the only thing to slow when warming up. Do you do 150 mile rides at this temperature?
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At -60°F, your bike might not be the only thing to slow when warming up. Do you do 150 mile rides at this temperature?
No, but I ride a lot at +45°F to +60°F and in that range the bike stumbles all over itself for the first 2 miles of riding, alleviated only slightly by full application of the enrichment lever. Much throttle and clutch-slipping required just to get rolling from a stop. But at this moment, that is only a minor inconvenience compared to running on one cylinder with the other only occasionally letting out a loud pop.
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Maybe the sticker was added by the importer.
At -60°F, your bike might not be the only thing to slow when warming up. Do you do 150 mile rides at this temperature?
Dave.
Did he mean “minus 60 degrees Fahrenheit”
Or
“Below 60 degrees Fahrenheit”
I think the latter..?
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Dave.
Did he mean “minus 60 degrees Fahrenheit”
Or
“Below 60 degrees Fahrenheit”
I think the latter..?
That makes much more sense. Two countries separated by a common language!
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Finally plugged my 750 Breva up to GuzziDiag after downloading it and downloading/running CDM21228_Setup to configure port. (I didn't download read and write mapping software because I just wanted to see if I could get any error reports for my sick machine.) I assume GuzziDiag found the port because it only offered one port option. It appeared to recognize what machine it was looking at but nothing else. Bottom left of window said "Disconnected".
So, what did I fail to read, or maybe misread, or have otherwise messed up?
Running latest Windows 10, BTW. This version will not give me a nice, simple way to see what ports are configured. The help for Windows 10 gives instructions how to do it but it just doesn't work in the sequence they give on my machine. (I found where others have complained about this but didn't see where anybody offered a clear resolution to the problem.) After multiple, unsuccessful attempts trying every USB port, starting and closing GuzziDiag each time, the box that shows the comm port went away. Where do I go from here?
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If there is an earlier version of Guzzidiag (v4.8) or something like that , try it . I also had similar problems with mine in Win 7 (don't know if that makes any difference)
There was also a selection of ports ( use the down arrow (pyramid) in the comm port box to scroll through them . On my Lenovo notebook it was port #7 and I believe
this came up in a comm port test ( either from the notebook when I originally hooked up the cables or from a comm port test program ) . A bit of perseverance was what
I needed . I previously bragged that it only took me 3 x to get it working . But sure improved the running on my 2018 Eldorado :azn: :azn: :azn:. Peter
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vwdsl, may I suggest going to the first page of this topic and read Reply #3. I think your just missing something simple like starting with "Preferences".
Good luck,
Tom
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vwdsl -- I have found a specific sequence is required to achieve successful connection. I'm using WinXP (I bought a used computer already configured for GD) and the Lonelec adapter (don't use anything else). Starting from Ignition Off and GD not started, the sequence is:
1 -- connect the Lonelec 3-pin to the diagnostic 3-pin
2 -- connect the Lonelec Black and Red clips to battery power (I use a separate battery)
3 -- connect the Lonelec USB plug to the computer (you should hear the familiar jingle)
4 -- verify the Lonelec COM number in Windows Device Manager (often COM4)
5 -- start GD
6 -- verify GD shows your ECU model in the bottom left box
7 -- select/re-select the COM number in Preferences
8 -- now click Connect and wait for the Ignition prompt
9 -- turn ignition On, wait 15 seconds, and press Ok
After a few seconds, GD should fill in the bottom left box with configuration information about your ECU.
I recommend as a first step reading and saving a report. It's very useful to have a printout before clicking on the other stuff GD offers.
In my experience, if Step 9 still shows Disconnected in the GD status line, I have to start all over from the beginning with Ignition Off and GD not running. Sometimes I'm successful on the first try and sometimes on the third try. Sometimes I have to swap USB ports. But I've always been successful.
Interpreting P codes is takes care and thought. I've seen people saying a specific P code meant you have to replace the HEGO but if you read the service manual closely it wasn't the HEGO itself but rather the wiring for which there was a step-by-step fault isolation process. Read the manual closely.
Best wishes with your Breva.
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^ +1 :thumb:, Peter
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Finally plugged my 750 Breva up to GuzziDiag after downloading it and downloading/running CDM21228_Setup to configure port. (I didn't download read and write mapping software because I just wanted to see if I could get any error reports for my sick machine.)
I'm not sure what you're referring to with "CDM21228", if that is the driver software for the chip in the cable disregard my post, if not read on,lol :grin:
You need a driver for the chip in the Lonelec cable, iirc the appropriate guzzidiag reader driver is needed to drive the chip and make the connection to read the ECU.
When gd shows no connection, verify all your connections and that the indicator light on the cable is on, showing that it's ready to make a good connection.
Everyone's experience is different with guzzidiag, but my ports always seemed to select themselves as I worked through the menus and fields, I've had other connection challenges, but the ports have been easy.
Good luck
Kelly
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The driver you need is on the Diag website I believe or used to be. My W7 I had to go through device manager in to some properties and I could see where I was plugged in to. Worth researching AND I'm analog but I can still read.
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Thanks for all the input. It hasn't helped that both times I have tried to mess with this I have been under the gun to move on to something else within an hour after I started. When I get back from my travels next week, I will devote at least a half-day to "becoming one" with GuzziDiag. It prompted me to set the preferences when I first opened it but I indeed need to start at the beginning again.
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We (wife) had Little issue tonight when hooking the computer to my 02 California Stone. At first it refused to connect. After a little research on the issue being on PC windows 10 system we found we needed to turn off “Firewall and virus shields before it would connect. After they were turned off it connected to guzzidiag and all else went well.
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We (wife) had Little issue tonight when hooking the computer to my 02 California Stone. At first it refused to connect. After a little research on the issue being on PC windows 10 system we found we needed to turn off “Firewall and virus shields before it would connect. After they were turned off it connected to guzzidiag and all else went well.
I had a heck of a time with my wifes Win 10 laptop! I ended up digging up one of my old win7 ones. My new win 1o one I got works great though. I think its a matter of if your computer likes it.
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I spent much of my working life using computers to access industrial logic, PLCs and such, I hate using Guzzidiag.
I'm using V0.47 on an older Mac Laptop, it crashes with a regularity that makes me think there''s no way I would attempt downloading a map.
The laptop would rather throw itself on the ground than sit on my bike
I find the user interface not very friendly.
Reading alarms shouldn't give me a cryptic message e.g.
P0336 No Signal
P0150 Invalid Signal
P0130 to low (not even spelt correctly)
P1607 Invalid signal
What the hell does that mean, surely in this day and age the computer can interpret these shorthand messages into plain English, that's what computers do best.
One should not have to consult a manual to interpret the alarm codes, at least Guzzidiag should have a lookup file with all the cryptic codes explained
Don't get me wrong, I think the guys have done a great service by writing Guzzidiag, it just doesn't work for me in my situation.
Rant over, ducking for cover.
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Kiwi you'd better be ducking for cover :boxing: :violent1: :boozing:
If you can find software to hook up to a Guzzi ECU that is better, especially for the price, go for it and let us know!! :clock: :popcorn:
GD does of it what is asked. Connects to the ECU and allows you to make adjustments or just read the vitals of the bike.
Yes it can be a bit fickle connecting to the bike. It seems some Win versions don't like GD. I guess I was lucky. A laptop and a cheap tablet both worked fine. Though you do have to guess which port it wants to use.
I just want to thank the writers of this program!! :bow: :bow: :thumb:
Tom
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Oh yea, one other thing we had to learn the hard way snd by chance. Hooking GD up to my 2002 Stone w found not get it to connect to GD. While wife was trying every thing she could think of with the laptop aspect of the process I was fiddling with the bike. I figured I’d go ahead and put it in neutral due to having to start the bike up later in the process and low and behold, instant connection!!!
The tranny must be in neutral for what ever reason. We did I’d over again to make sure that’s what made the difference and it was!
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I spent much of my working life using computers to access industrial logic, PLCs and such, I hate using Guzzidiag.
I'm using V0.47 on an older Mac Laptop, it crashes with a regularity that makes me think there''s no way I would attempt downloading a map.
The laptop would rather throw itself on the ground than sit on my bike
I find the user interface not very friendly.
Reading alarms shouldn't give me a cryptic message e.g.
P0336 No Signal
P0150 Invalid Signal
P0130 to low (not even spelt correctly)
P1607 Invalid signal
What the hell does that mean, surely in this day and age the computer can interpret these shorthand messages into plain English, that's what computers do best.
One should not have to consult a manual to interpret the alarm codes, at least Guzzidiag should have a lookup file with all the cryptic codes explained
Don't get me wrong, I think the guys have done a great service by writing Guzzidiag, it just doesn't work for me in my situation.
Rant over, ducking for cover.
Dump that Apple crap and get a real computer :evil: :grin:..... <now I'm ducking>
I also thank the Guzzidiag team, a great resource!
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Dump that Apple crap and get a real computer :evil: :grin:..... <now I'm ducking>
I also thank the Guzzidiag team, a great resource!
I don't have any allegiance to a Mac. they do some things well.
Are you telling me the "PC" explains the alarms better?
Oh yea, one other thing we had to learn the hard way snd by chance. Hooking GD up to my 2002 Stone w found not get it to connect to GD. While wife was trying every thing she could think of with the laptop aspect of the process I was fiddling with the bike. I figured I’d go ahead and put it in neutral due to having to start the bike up later in the process and low and behold, instant connection!!!
The tranny must be in neutral for what ever reason. We did I’d over again to make sure that’s what made the difference and it was!
That should be explained if it's the case, I know it's free software but I would be willing to contribute if some of the issues could be addressed.
My biggest beef is computers do so well at documenting and it's not utilized, ok, it might be hard to display the alarms in plain English as part of Guzzidiag but a Word file is something almost anyone could create, it doesn't even have to be part of the software package.
Anyone have a word file for the V7 alarm messages.
One of my problems is I cannot from where the bike is parked go on-line to find the manual so it's jot down the alarms then go and look the codes up.
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I have two Mac laptops-versions 10.13.6 and 10.14.6. I'm also computer challenged in the extreme. Any ideas on which version of Guzzidiag would work with either of these two laptops? If it matters, the bike in question is an '09 Stelvio. I have managed to use version 4.7 using a borrowed PC but can't get it to work on my Mac. Thanks.
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Email Mark--he'll provide you a Dropbox link to download version 4.6 which works with Mac OSX Catalina.
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The only thing I found wrong with Guzzidiag, is that it does not allow for that fact that I have waited ‘till the age of 62 to begin with computers.
A barely literate 10 year old child, can work their way through the logic of GD statements and processes better than me. I also bristled at the shorthand fault descriptions, but again had to confront the fact that it was/is my deficiency, not GD’s.
In my case Gonzo was the interface between me and Guzzidiag and he explained in English what the computer was saying in 1’s and 0’s. The guys who have not allowed the horse to bolt and disappear over the hill towards oblivion, have no dramas interpreting the system. Beetle and Beard never seem to struggle.. :bow: :thumb:
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GuzziDiag is an excellent software product and we MG owners are lucky to have it available. Yes it does have its user interface quirks like its author's (beard?) preference for Red backgrounds. But we all have our favorite colors and beside my Stone is Rosso Rovente.
One of the excellent features is multiple languages. This constrains user interface choices requiring certain simplifications that can mimic lack of sophistication. Another constraint is the author is Windows-knowledgeable but much less so for Apple products.
There are two weaknesses. One is the lack of formal user documentation so you have to search this and other forums for information. But it is available. The other is lack of robust error reporting and recovery in the Connection procedure. If you do everything correctly on the motorcycle, diagnostic interface, and computer software, it will connect every time. If you don't it can be a mystery and, for me at least, a reboot is often required.
There is a major strength -- the author welcomes, accepts and acknowledges help from users as can be seen from the changelog. If you want to see your name in the changelog, there are opportunities for you.
One is the OBD diagnostic (P) code descriptions. The descriptions are easily found on the WWW. And they are accurate if terse. For instance I had P0130 and P0150. Both the WWW description and MG service manual pointed to the O2 sensor wiring, not the O2 sensor. The P1607 code was more subtle although both the WWW and MG said the same thing: failed ECU. And then there are the OEM-specific P codes. So providing the author with P code descriptions more to your liking and more closely matching MG's descriptions is your opportunity. I don't know if GuzziDiag has one set of P code descriptions common to all ECU models or if there is a specific set of descriptions for each ECU model. Ask first.
After successfully connecting, my first action is to save a report. If there are any P codes (at the bottom of the report), there is some unpleasant language then I copy the report onto a USB flash drive and take it into the house with my comfortable chair, good lighting, service manual, and Internet-connected computer (my GuzziDiag computer is an old Toshiba I bought from a member specifically configured for GD -- it would be malware-bait dead-meat on the Internet). Many Guzzi riders are more environmentally hardened than me and work in their garage (which I don't have). :laugh:
If you can change the oil on your MG and you can view Device Manager on your Window computer, then you can run GuzziDiag. And if you can't, just like getting help changing oil you can get help running GD.
And one change I suggest for the GuzziDiag webpage is put a Donate button on it because I can't donate from my offline GD computer.
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Well said Bertie..!
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KR -- I think we're going to end up PMing resolution but I've had all your P codes:
P0366 -- CPS wiring
P0130 -- O2 wiring
P0150 -- the other O2 wiring
P1607 -- ECU has the flutters
They have a common cause: electrical noise getting into the unterminated CANbus.
Before you clear the codes, do this https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=107174.msg1697990#msg1697990
After clearing the codes, run the motorcycle for a minute or two then check again. If they didn't come back, take a short ride of a mile or two, then check again. If they didn't come back, they will sometime. :laugh:
There are two potentially unterminated CANbus connectors in the V7 III series.
One is the tachometer connector under the gas tank which is not used by we downmarket Stone, etc speedometer-only models. But you have a Special so it's probably CANbus correct.
The other is the 8-pin (5 populated) MGMP Bluedash connector to the rear of the battery. Its two CANbus pins are not terminated by the 120ohm resistor required by ISO 11898-2. If you move the connector (like I did) and put non-MG wiring nearby (like I did) and add noise generators such as fan-cooled LED headlights and PWM-controlled heated grips (like I did) then you're going to get weird random signals on the CANbus fussing the ECU and Dashboard.
You already know the noise reduction techniques: wiring arrangement, ferrite chokes, and even a CANbus termination resistor. I did the resistor but was sloppy. Fortunately the other techniques worked. If they don't work for you, PM me and we'll chase them P code away. :smiley:
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Hi Bert,
There is one set of codes for all bikes. But Piaggio in their wisdom not always uses the same errorcode for the same thing. And also doesn't keep the standard codes you find from automotive ecu's. Next to that you can get codes that are not in the Guzzi workshopmanuals. The errorcodes set from the RSV4 is much bigger and covers a part that are not in the Guzzi manuals. I put them here:
https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?350345-RSV4-TuonoV4-error-codes-listing
As you can see even for RSV4 they have euro 3 errors and euro 4 errors, on the same errornumber they have something different.
You can add as much errorcodes to your own guzzidiag as you like by editing the guzzidiag.ini.
It's not that there is no Apple love, we just don't have a recent OSX machine around. And Apple changes things under the hood with updates that kills a working solution. And most Apple users have no clue how it works and that makes it hard to solve problems.
Connecting Problems:
Don't buy the cheapest adapters you can find on alixpress/amazon of other websites. they can work, but also can be a time consuming hell.
Just buy the adapters from Lonelec in the UK, they ship fast to the USA too, and worked with me to make a v85 adapter.
Windows 8,8.1 and 10 have a long time automatically installed the right drivers for the KKL adapter, I found that the last version Windows 10 doesn't. In device manager you can let windows use windows update to get the right driver installed.
Guzzidiag has been timeconsuming to develop and maintain. I think more than one manyear development is put in it. Since we all have a daytime job and family, not everything is finished. But what it there works.
Paul
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https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?350345-RSV4-TuonoV4-error-codes-listing
Hi Paul,
That seems to be a very comprehensive listing of the error codes, is that included in the latest version of Guzzidiag?
As an alternative can you make the listing available in a common format like Excel or another file format like csv that can be massaged into a usable table.
Can you explain the difference between a Code E4 and a Code E3
I tried to print the listing but all I got was 3 1/2 columns complete with headers and borders its the raw file I need then I can suck it into excel for a compact printout to excel file
that i can open on the laptop.
I don't have internet access in the garage, its too far from my wifi router.
Thanks
Roy Matson
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I looked at Paul's Aprilla code table and thought about KR's "how about a Word document" question. We had our Black cat
(https://i.ibb.co/cTPrkww/Felix-on-Rosso-Grosso.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cTPrkww)
locked inside for Halloween and I had to keep him company. So I grabbed the service manual and documented those DTCs in the attached document (created from Word).
(https://i.ibb.co/P668Kkg/V7-III-ABS-K-line-DTCs.jpg) (https://ibb.co/P668Kkg)
What does this mean for GuzziDiag? Not much because the DTCs in the .ini file are for all ECU types and there is no mechanism to select for the V7 III-only DTCs. And some specific V7 III DTC descriptions conflict with other ECU's DTC descriptions. And my Word document is English-only so it isn't fair to ask for it to be included in the multi-lingual GuzziDiag distribution. I'm not sure where to go from here.
Paul -- writing software to interface with a "standard" Windows USB-serial interface is difficult and time-consuming. What makes it a ball-buster is adding the various asynchronous/multi-tasking error detection and timeouts as the connection progresses through the various states and protocol levels. And then there's the rollback of the connection state to where the error occurred. I was trying to acknowledge this rather than criticize your work. Apologies.
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I have to ask
Pi607 & P1800 Did it actually say "Piaggio Magic Error" in the book?
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Last night I went out on the back porch to enjoy a beer with my cat. A mother and two young boys walked by. I said Good Evening and one of the boys said What? I looked at him and he looked at me -- we understood each other. His mother said Say Good Evening Back. The boy said Good Evening Back. I laughed. KR -- as a nice Canadian you would have said Good Evening a second time.
Saved data file (for safety) P1607 - filled
Error cause
* This indication appears only if the Level 2 safety has reset the engine (C gravity). The instrument panel does not indicate the presence of this error even in the ATT status.
Troubleshooting
* Replace the engine control unit
P1800 is a bit more informative albeit just as useless because it's a EEPROM-to-RAM transcription error so the ABS uses a default wheel radius.
The service manual also lists the following ABS-related codes but I don't think GuzziDiag reports them: 5D90 5D91 5D92 5D93 5D94 5D95 5DA0 5DA1 5DA2 5DA3 5DA4 5DA5 D347 5E11 5E16 5E1F.
Before digging into the service manual it's helpful to reread a few pages of Alice in Wonderland first. :laugh:
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E3 and E4 : is euro 3 bikes or euro 4 bikes. With the RSV4/ Tuono V4, difference is easy: the TFT dashboard ones are Euro 4.
With the older Ecu from Marelli it was simple, the bikes who had the same ecu type had the same error codes. That was the case with P7, P8, 16M, 15m and 15RC, as long as there was Guzzi software on it. Most of the times the Ducati's with those ecu will have same errorcodes. I think most of it counts for the 5AM. Then there is the MIU G3 and 7SM. Where the MIU is developed as a scooter unit with one cil. The software it has looks a bit like the 5AM with extra's. The 7SM is complete other development with ride by wire. Extremely more complicated. With the 7SM is where Guzzi used codes for the V85 and C 1400 not always the same. Or the explaining text looks like it, but do they mean the same thing.
I have a pdf with the Aprilia codes. But even if you have no internet in the shed, how often do you get these errors, and isn't it time to drink a coffee with your wife, while looking up the errorcode?
ABS errors come from the ABS unit, and need a newer version Guzzidiag that does not exist yet. Guzzi has used 3 different types ABS unit from Continental and Bosch.
With my PADS tester I can read the ABS units too.
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Thanks for the explanation Paul.
I get an error probably once a week, even when the bike was new, usually the light goes out after a few starts.
Yesterday was the first time in 3 months they wouldn't clear by themselves.
When I hook the laptop on its usually a matter of clearing the error, its not like the explanation would allow me to fix anything.
Sorry about my whining.
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Thanks for the explanation Paul.
I get an error probably once a week, even when the bike was new, usually the light goes out after a few starts.
Yesterday was the first time in 3 months they wouldn't clear by themselves.
When I hook the laptop on its usually a matter of clearing the error, its not like the explanation would allow me to fix anything.
Sorry about my whining.
But which error do you get, on what bike?
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Is https://www.von-der-salierburg.de down? I was going to download GuzziDiag and I just get a timeout.
jrt
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Apologies if I missed this somewhere in the thread-
Are there any risks associated with writing to a MIUG3 ECU with a virtual machine?
The tutorial clearly states that the 7SM writer will brick the ECU if ran through a virtual machine.. but what about the MIUG3 writer for my v7ii Stone?
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After reading through much of this thread, I really find myself missing the days of carburetors, cable-actuated throttles, and manual chokes. I hope my bike is happy enough with stock fueling, etc., as there is no way I am going to try to scale this steep of a learning curve.
My hat is off to those of you who can actually make this stuff work.
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After reading through much of this thread, I really find myself missing the days of carburetors, cable-actuated throttles, and manual chokes. I hope my bike is happy enough with stock fueling, etc., as there is no way I am going to try to scale this steep of a learning curve.
My hat is off to those of you who can actually make this stuff work.
Paul, I’m exactly where your are at. That said, there is help for guys like us. If you have Children or grandchildren then you can accomplish the computer part. They would be very familiar with how to download the program and the rest is simply hooking the hardware to your bikes computer. Several of the guys here can walk you through that process, as they did me. Help is available, just ask👍
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Paul, I’m exactly where your are at. That said, there is help for guys like us. If you have Children or grandchildren then you can accomplish the computer part. They would be very familiar with how to download the program and the rest is simply hooking the hardware to your bikes computer. Several of the guys here can walk you through that process, as they did me. Help is available, just ask👍
I'm 62 and have been working on engines of all types, racing and road for 50 years and the last thing I would ever want to do is go back to carburettors. Horrible fiddly wearing things.
Ciao
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I have started to gain some solidity in my knowledge base regarding Guzzidiag.
Without any exaggeration I can say that if Beard and Beetle are 100 and Joe Bloggs is zero, I am about 15.
That is an honest appraisal, but here is my next question..
When doing a TGPS reset on my V85, I note that Beetle says to perform the handle self learning and then the throttle self learning in two steps, one immediately following the other, but I find that I have to do the handle procedure first, then get out of Guzzidiag and go back in again to do throttle self learning.
Should I be able to do them both with no exiting the program in between ?
Also.
What in beginners language, what does “reset auto learning parameters” enable the system to accomplish ?
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I have started gain some solidity in my knowledge base regarding Guzzidiag.
Without any exaggeration I can say that if Beard and Beetle are 100 and Joe Bloggs is zero, I am about 15.
That is an honest appraisal, but here is my next question..
When doing a TGPS reset on my V85, I note that Beetle says to perform the handle self learning and then the throttle self learning in two steps, one immediately following the other, but I find that I have to do the handle procedure first, then get out of Guzzidiag and go back in again to do throttle self learning.
Should I be able to do them both with no exiting the program in between ?
Also.
What in beginners language, what does “reset auto learning parameters” enable the system to accomplish ?
Good question as I’ve wondered the same thing.
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One of the problems with GD is it's a labor of love and much effort by Bernard and Beetle with minimal remuneration. A second problem is B&B are nice people expecting common sense from their beneficiaries (that's us) and provide hints rather than directions. A third problem is many beneficiaries don't have the service manual and wiring diagram for their MGs. When you have to ask "Where's the location of my diagnostic connector?" or "How many pins does it have?" you really ain't ready for GD.
But there is a way ahead.
Step up and produce GD end-user documentation yourselves.
I suggest chapters based on ECU model (eg, MIU G3) and sub-chapters based on MG year and model (eg, 2017-2019 V7 III).
And don't provide hints but rather explicit directions.
Like my: "If you don't buy the Lonelec adapter and use Windows with a USB port you're a fool and will fail." And "Follow my step-by-step instruction to successfully connect or you will fail."
I see too many people saying I want to use my Apple thingy with a VM thingy and a eBay adapter because ... whatever.
The minimum alternative to GD starts around $400. You can buy a Windows XP laptop with a Lonelec adapter for $200 delivered (yeah that's what I did). So step up and take advantage of the great product that GD is. And contribute to the end-user documentation. And to Bernard of course.
I'm too old and grumpy to be a leader for the end-user documentation but I promise to be an enthusiastic contributor.
Stepping off the podium...
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Bert.
I’ll readily admit in any company that my knowledge base regarding this stuff is infantile. I tip my hat to the guys who can use this stuff as cleanly as I can a lathe, 2 axis control column, spinning side kick or whatever else I may have picked up along the way.
But here’s the thing.
I can and do bristle when someone trying to pick themselves up off the floor is labelled as being “a fool” or having “no common sense”. I freely admit that when I jump into Beard’s or Beetle’s pool, I am a flailing life form doomed to failure, but I am hoping to try and gain a workmanlike level of aptitude.
Now.
By the above definition I am a fool with no commonsense, but I’ll wager that I could take any or either of the aforesaid luminaries into one of the fields mentioned at the top of this rant and make them wet their pants..(or worse).
Also the great A Einstein was once quoted as saying..”If you can’t explain something simply, you don’t have a good enough level of understanding yourself..”
The thing I hate is not being called a fool, because that just opens up a “suite of tools” that I can use to begin to prove otherwise.
No.
What I hate is when gentle hearted souls are crushed to the point that they dare not raise their eyes to ask for secondary clarification on a “simple” concept, or the one/s that do, are marginalised and labelled trolls or snarky antipodean smart asses...(the last one is a little more correct than the foregoing..).. :popcorn:
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Huzo -- by any measure you have demonstrated many times on this forum you are not a fool.
WRT GD and maybe Windows computers and certainly K-line diagnostic interfaces, yeah you are ignorant. We all start that way. For one reason or another (nature, nurture) our ignorance changes.
My ignorance of powered, precision machine tools is massive and I admire without reservation as artists those who can use them gracefully and, to my eyes, magically. As you have with your V85.
I too started ignorant of GD. But I reached beyond. I studied Bernard. I studied Beetle. I went to all their websites I could find. I read this topic (and others) end-to-end looking for hints and successes. I read the MG service manual. I studied the MG wiring diagram. I investigated what a K-line diagnostic was and what the messages meant.
I worked hard for my GD knowledge. It ain't great but I've tried to share it on this forum.
It is unfair to burden B&B with end-user handholding for their generously shared knowledge.
We as the GD end-users need to step up and organize our community's knowledge. And that was my point.
For instance, I can't tell you about GD's diagnostics and actions for your V85 but I can tell you what you need to do to successfully connect. And probably another forum member can tell you when, why and how for a TPS reset. So let's share that knowledge in a more organized form.
So let's head in that direction.
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Jeez, that’s a well conceived and structured piece of text.
I do take on board your suggestion that guys at my level probably should not ask B&B to have to slow down and hold my hand.
I unreservedly take that on board without any alteration.
I think if I was at their level, I would be a little more tactful to the swamp dwellers, but then if I were them I wouldn’t be me, so how can I say ?
Thanks for your response though Bert, there is a little more light on the topic than I perceived before.
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I've used GD since 2016 with few problems on Windows 7 & 10 machines. I've also fiddled a bit with a couple Apple computers with no luck. Apple makes no sense to me.
I have also found that for whatever reason one of my laptops does not connect through it's USB port despite all manner of fiddling with drivers, and settings.
Once you get a computer to work properly, set the correct model/ECU and port settings in the file/preferences, it is a straight forward affair. It can be a challenge to get there depending on the machine. My 'preferred' laptop to use and bring with me is a small 9" Lenovo, but so far, I can not get to work (havent tried in 6 months or so), So I use my main and more expensive laptop that works very well, as did my last one. I have a separate folder for each bike with a copy of the GD software in that folder. This makes opening and using GD quick and easy, and keeps all the files organized for that bike. I also have it all in the cloud, so I can access it anywhere there is an internet connection if I happen to need it and don't have access to my PC. I really would like to get the smaller more portable unit to work.
Huzo, I had problems with resetting the handle and parameters on my MGX-21 which has the same ECU as the V85 (7SM?) I followed Beetle's suggestion of doing both resets concurrently as I would on the Griso/Norge and Stornello, but ended up with the red triangle of death, and had to shut everything off, then back on, clear the error codes, and ended up doing them one at a time. Tried it 2-3X with the same result. So I would do each separately, with a shut down of the software and ignition key each time. Why? Who knows.... I try to focus on what works, not what is perfect.
My understanding of the 'learning parameters' is the limited adjustment the ECU makes and learns to adjust the fuel trims and tune based on riding style, fuel, elevation, etc. I could be wrong. I always reset it after a valve adjustment and tune up, though is not necessary. I believe that disconnecting the battery will accomplish the same.
It is a great tool, and I am happy to have access to it.
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Thank you for your great response Bulldog.
Even though I may not get a definitive answer to an enquiry, having someone else of greater knowledge saying they had the same issue, is almost as comforting.
When doing the TGPS reset on the 7SM, I have no trouble with either the handle or throttle self learning, but I do have to go out and come back in between the two.
Resetting auto self learning parameters has not always been a slam dunk for me, but I will go out now and have another look.
Another thing..
I have Guzzidiag 0.5a and have used it for basic diagnostics such as TGPS resets and fault reading...(none are present or stored.. :thumb:)
I hear that it is a good idea to “store your map”. Is this within the capability of me and Guzzidiag ? I have not loaded Guzzi Writer and am unlikely to do so because I almost know enough to get myself into trouble, fortunately not quite though..
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Just a dumb one..
When doing TGPS, Throttle and Reset auto learning parameters.. Does the “Start” prompt on the right mean..
(https://i.ibb.co/sHFHxt8/03-AF7-CF3-C6-BD-49-CB-B159-48-B086-A00-E2-A.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sHFHxt8)
Start the engine or click on the prompt ?
Typical double talking computer speak..
“Start engine” or “Click here”, might be less ambiguous ?
Of course this is part of the reason people like Beard get their lederhosens in a bunch, because people like me can’t wipe their own arses without asking what the term “toilet paper” means... :rolleyes:
Bert Remington’s point was well made.
If you can’t walk, don’t buy a pair of joggers...
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Thank you for your great response Bulldog.
Even though I may not get a definitive answer to an enquiry, having someone else of greater knowledge saying they had the same issue, is almost as comforting.
When doing the TGPS reset on the 7SM, I have no trouble with either the handle or throttle self learning, but I do have to go out and come back in between the two.
Resetting auto self learning parameters has not always been a slam dunk for me, but I will go out now and have another look.
Another thing..
I have Guzzidiag 0.5a and have used it for basic diagnostics such as TGPS resets and fault reading...(none are present or stored.. :thumb:)
I hear that it is a good idea to “store your map”. Is this within the capability of me and Guzzidiag ? I have not loaded Guzzi Writer and am unlikely to do so because I almost know enough to get myself into trouble, fortunately not quite though..
I don't think I have greater knowledge, just more dumb luck ;-) I have no worries or concerns with using GD on my bikes. I only had the MGX with the newer ECU, but was nervous about bricking it. Though from what I understand that is rare unless you aren't running windows or if you interrupt the read or write programs. I've done all manner of dumbness to mine with no ill effects.
I am using V.047 It works good enough, but I don't have the newer ECU.
Before I do anything, I use the reader program to backup the stock map. It will prompt you to name the file and will generally save it to the folder you are running Guzzi Diag. GD also saves a TXT log file of what you do. The writer program is for re-flashing the stock map and to load new maps.
The reader and writer programs are very simple to use, I wouldn't be concerned about it. Most important is to ensure the battery is fully fully charged and healthy before you start, or is connected to a trickle charger while reading or writing, connections are solid, and let the process finish.
The start prompt is generally to Start the process not the engine. The prompts generally deal with ignition on and off, not starting the engine. I dont think there is a prompt to do that. If there is, I haven't seen it. For the 5AM and MIUG3 ECU's you can start the bike while connected to Guzzi Diag for active monitoring, and there are 'running options' in the actor menu.
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I don't think I have greater knowledge, just more dumb luck ;-) I have no worries or concerns with using GD on my bikes. I only had the MGX with the newer ECU, but was nervous about bricking it. Though from what I understand that is rare unless you aren't running windows or if you interrupt the read or write programs. I've done all manner of dumbness to mine with no ill effects.
I am using V.047 It works good enough, but I don't have the newer ECU.
Before I do anything, I use the reader program to backup the stock map. It will prompt you to name the file and will generally save it to the folder you are running Guzzi Diag. GD also saves a TXT log file of what you do. The writer program is for re-flashing the stock map and to load new maps.
The reader and writer programs are very simple to use, I wouldn't be concerned about it. Most important is to ensure the battery is fully fully charged and healthy before you start, or is connected to a trickle charger while reading or writing, connections are solid, and let the process finish.
The start prompt is generally to Start the process not the engine. The prompts generally deal with ignition on and off, not starting the engine. I dont think there is a prompt to do that. If there is, I haven't seen it. For the 5AM and MIUG3 ECU's you can start the bike while connected to Guzzi Diag for active monitoring, and there are 'running options' in the actor menu.
Ok mate.
The bit about being simple is the only thing I have issue with. Remember, I do not even know what a TXT log file is.
When you tell people you’re clueless, they think they’re doing you a favour by saying that you’re not..
I ******* WELL AM...!
But I am happy to toddle along and gently enhance my “skills...”
There usually is not one line of text that I read, that does not have an ambiguity, jargon, abbreviation or such.
I am so bad, that when I saw Beetle use the term “Windoze”, I didn’t know if he was serious or mockingly referring to the slowness and Stone Age way it operates.
Now.
Are you telling me that if I was good enough with GD, that I could dive into my map and work on curing the perceived lean condition that it currently runs ?
There is no way on Earth that I will be good enough to do that in my lifetime.
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Ok mate.
The bit about being simple is the only thing I have issue with. Remember, I do not even know what a TXT log file is.
When you tell people you’re clueless, they think they’re doing you a favour by saying that you’re not..
I ******* WELL AM...!
But I am happy to toddle along and gently enhance my “skills...”
There usually is not one line of text that I read, that does not have an ambiguity, jargon, abbreviation or such.
I am so bad, that when I saw Beetle use the term “Windoze”, I didn’t know if he was serious or mockingly referring to the slowness and Stone Age way it operates.
Now.
Are you telling me that if I was good enough with GD, that I could dive into my map and work on curing the perceived lean condition that it currently runs ?
There is no way on Earth that I will be good enough to do that in my lifetime.
LOL, I get it.....
FWIW, the file that GD generates with a .TXT file name ending is literally a "LOG" or a generated note that details what you did. It is meaningless other than wanting to see what it recorded.
The actual MAPS end in a .BIN file. That is what you would WRITE to your ECU, and when you READ the file and save on your computer, it will end in a .BIN. So if you were to connect and save/backup your map with the READER you would name it in the dialog box as Huzo1 or whatever, and it would be saved as Huzo1.BIN.
Guzzi Diag does not modify maps or such, that is what Tuner Pro does. Totally different animal, and while fun to look at and explore, is not something I would play around with and then write to your ECU, but it is interesting.
You CAN adjust fuel trims with Guzzi Diag, but not much more other than active monitoring of the bike, ability to test various components, learning parameters, etc, and read/reset error codes.
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LOL, I get it.....
FWIW, the file that GD generates with a .TXT file name ending is literally a "LOG" or a generated note that details what you did. It is meaningless other than wanting to see what it recorded.
The actual MAPS end in a .BIN file. That is what you would WRITE to your ECU, and when you READ the file and save on your computer, it will end in a .BIN. So if you were to connect and save/backup your map with the READER you would name it in the dialog box as Huzo1 or whatever, and it would be saved as Huzo1.BIN.
Guzzi Diag does not modify maps or such, that is what Tuner Pro does. Totally different animal, and while fun to look at and explore, is not something I would play around with and then write to your ECU, but it is interesting.
You CAN adjust fuel trims with Guzzi Diag, but not much more other than active monitoring of the bike, ability to test various components, learning parameters, etc, and read/reset error codes.
Thank you Bulldog..
I need to spend a night with you and Gonzo... :kiss:
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Continuing my theme of community knowledge, I'm going to start with GD's .INI file (GuzziDiag_Vx.xx.INI). Windows is designed so an application (eg GD) can be created to be language-independent with tailoring to a specific language done at installation or configuration time. This process is termed "localization." Note that beard gives credit to users who localized the .INI to languages other than his. This is a reminder that B&B have limited resources so we users as a community need to step forward to provide supplemental documentation, etc.
Also note that the .INI file is "flat." That is, it selects on language only. All Moto Guzzi models with their differing ECU models are treated the same WRT OBD P-codes and perhaps other aspects. But we know the P-codes have different meanings depending on ECU model. The "standard" GD text descriptions have caused user confusion and complaints for those who didn't have the ECU model that beard originally documented. Which is why I published a .PDF with the V7 III P-codes from the service manual. But beard can't use them because his .INI doesn't select by ECU model, just user language. So a separate "community knowledge" document is needed so when GD displays a P-code, don't look at the GD description but rather the community knowledge chapter for your ECU..
I've written the V7 III P-codes article. I think I have access to a Norge service manual (I gave mine to my nephew along with the Norge). We need members to document the ECU-specific P-codes for all ECU models. It's not hard, just walk through the manual writing down each code and the textual description.
But most of all we need a bold youngster to step forward as editor/publisher for this community knowledge document.
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Continuing my theme of community knowledge, I'm going to start with GD's .INI file (GuzziDiag_Vx.xx.INI). Windows is designed so an application (eg GD) can be created to be language-independent with tailoring to a specific language done at installation or configuration time. This process is termed "localization." Note that beard gives credit to users who localized the .INI to languages other than his. This is a reminder that B&B have limited resources so we users as a community need to step forward to provide supplemental documentation, etc.
[snip]
I've written the V7 III P-codes article. I think I have access to a Norge service manual (I gave mine to my nephew along with the Norge). We need members to document the ECU-specific P-codes for all ECU models. It's not hard, just walk through the manual writing down each code and the textual description.
But most of all we need a bold youngster to step forward as editor/publisher for this community knowledge document.
I can email you a copy of the early Norge Service Manual if you need it. PDF format - roughly 8 Meg in size.
jdg
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Does the guzzidiag work for the P8? I have the later model computer 15m downloaded is that equivalent?
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Does the guzzidiag work for the P8? I have the later model computer 15m downloaded is that equivalent?
Guzzidiag has XDF files for the P7 and P8 to use with Tunerpro and there is an IAW7SM reader and writer. Don't know that the 15M will work. Someone smarter will be along momentarily :)
Ciao
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Hello everyone, this is my first post, so be gentle. I've been lucky enough to buy a 2021 V85TT Centenario and one of my first jobs was to add a set of genuine grips. All went well but I know that the TPS has to be reset. The dealer is a good way from me so I bought the leads from Lonelec and had a good read of the Guzzidiag tutorial on here. All went swimmingly until I realised that the ECU doesn't seem to be on the list? Maybe it's a new one for the Euro 5 2021 model, I don't know.
I have attached a picture of it and would be grateful if anyone could shed some light on it, otherwise it's a half-day round trip to the dealers for a PADS reset.
Thanks, Sye
(https://i.ibb.co/JzsCmqC/2021-Euro-5-V85-TT-ECU.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JzsCmqC)
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добрый день всем, я с Украины и у меня вопрос, где взять прошивку, мне нужно подружить приборную панель с мозгами мотоцикла, все программы я устаноыил но не знаю где взять файл bin, помогите пожалуйста. california touring 1400, 2014 года.
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^ ? . I didn't notice any icon that allows an English interpretation of that ? :grin: Peter
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help me figure it out, my motorcycle does not respond to buttons, the dashboard has been replaced, there is no native panel, tell me what to do, I installed the guzzidiag program, but I don’t know what to do next. how to upload a video, or give someone a mail, I will show what is happening.
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Trying to download the ECU to save with the IAW15 reader. First time the files was only 65.5kB. So I tried again with a battery tender connected and again only a 65kB file???? I did a little searching and it seems it should be much latger. Both times it took 5-6 minutes (maybe more or less I am just guessing). Any ideas of what I am doing wrong???
Dual boot Ubuntu and windows 7. The windows 7 is a clean install without any internet connection so zero updates. GuzziDiag works fine. LoneLec cables.
Thanks. :bow:
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Trying to download the ECU to save with the IAW15 reader. First time the files was only 65.5kB. So I tried again with a battery tender connected and again only a 65kB file???? I did a little searching and it seems it should be much latger. Both times it took 5-6 minutes (maybe more or less I am just guessing). Any ideas of what I am doing wrong???
Dual boot Ubuntu and windows 7. The windows 7 is a clean install without any internet connection so zero updates. GuzziDiag works fine. LoneLec cables.
Thanks. :bow:
All my many and various maps are 64KB in size.
Ciao
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All my many and various maps are 64KB in size.
Ciao
Thank you. I was really expecting a larger file for the time it took to download. When I tried to open it in TunerPro it would not work so I thought I did something wrong..... My problem was not using the xdf file from GuzziDiag. DOH!
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Thank you. I was really expecting a larger file for the time it took to download. When I tried to open it in TunerPro it would not work so I thought I did something wrong..... My problem was not using the xdf file from GuzziDiag. DOH!
Its not the size of the map thats the issue with downloading the original map it's the process required. Something to do with internal protocols or the rate at which the system can transmit the data or the system needs to validate every bit individually initially or something related from memory. The Guzzidiag IT type experts will have a better or more accurate explanation. Once you have the original downloaded then the process takes all of 10 seconds or so to write a new/modified map to the ecu.
Ciao
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^ +1
Longer to DL then UL.
Tom
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Hello everyone, this is my first post, so be gentle. I've been lucky enough to buy a 2021 V85TT Centenario and one of my first jobs was to add a set of genuine grips. All went well but I know that the TPS has to be reset. The dealer is a good way from me so I bought the leads from Lonelec and had a good read of the Guzzidiag tutorial on here. All went swimmingly until I realised that the ECU doesn't seem to be on the list? Maybe it's a new one for the Euro 5 2021 model, I don't know.
I have attached a picture of it and would be grateful if anyone could shed some light on it, otherwise it's a half-day round trip to the dealers for a PADS reset.
Thanks, Sye
(https://i.ibb.co/JzsCmqC/2021-Euro-5-V85-TT-ECU.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JzsCmqC)
For the moment, it won't work with Guzzidiag because that ecu type, 11MP is new. We are going to do work on that, it will also need a new adapter, because the 11mMP only uses CANbus. And the KKL doesn't do CANbus.
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Working on my 2000 Quota. The idle adjustment does not work. It just spins and nothing changes. So I can not set the throttle to zero to set the TPS. So I spent the morning changing the TPS in the smallest increments I could by lightly tapping the TPS. This is what I got.
Throttle V Throttle
0.176v 0.25 This seems to be the best running so far. I know the air screw is supposed to stay closed but it will not idle so about 1 turn out and it idles and pulls smooth.
0.196v 0.44
0.216v 0.62
0.255v 0.99 This is where it was set. But it was very jerky from a rough idle up to about 3500 RPM.
I did not expect the throttle position to change when I changed the TPS. Should I keep going and try to get it close to 0.150v @ 0.00?
Thanks in advance. :thumb:
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Has anyone ever reverted back to the stock map after trying at Beetle map? Any issues uploading the stock one back?
I've got a 2014 V7 with Agostini slip ons and debating if the Beetle map would be worth uploading to make it run better (I can't tell if there is anything wrong with it now, but I've heard the factory map isn't great to begin with). However, if I have issues, I would like to be able to get it back to stock without any trouble.
James
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For the moment, it won't work with Guzzidiag because that ecu type, 11MP is new. We are going to do work on that, it will also need a new adapter, because the 11mMP only uses CANbus. And the KKL doesn't do CANbus.
Thanks for the reply Paul, I did buy the correct lead from Lonelec but couldn't connect. I will keep an eye on this thread to see when access has been achieved.
Thanks, Sye.
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Has anyone ever reverted back to the stock map after trying at Beetle map? Any issues uploading the stock one back?
I've got a 2014 V7 with Agostini slip ons and debating if the Beetle map would be worth uploading to make it run better (I can't tell if there is anything wrong with it now, but I've heard the factory map isn't great to begin with). However, if I have issues, I would like to be able to get it back to stock without any trouble.
James
I reverted back to factory map after try Beetle map on V7 III, no problem.
Just do a "Reading" before Writing.
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Has anyone ever reverted back to the stock map after trying at Beetle map? Any issues uploading the stock one back?
I've got a 2014 V7 with Agostini slip ons and debating if the Beetle map would be worth uploading to make it run better (I can't tell if there is anything wrong with it now, but I've heard the factory map isn't great to begin with). However, if I have issues, I would like to be able to get it back to stock without any trouble.
James
Ya, zero problem doing that. Just make sure you save your stock map when you load the new one. Its really pretty easy after you walk through it the first, or second time. Lots of maps out there, both stock, and modded.. Takes no time to try out a bunch of them.
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Just did a hook up to Guzzi Diag with my V85. The system recognised the 7SM and I had no problems checking for stored codes etc...
But here’s the thing.
I changed to the required plug and hooked up to the 5AM on my Norge.
I cannot get Guzzidiag to connect to the 5AM, I have checked that the port is valid and the blue light is lit on the plug so all seems good, but no dice.
I get through to the bit that says “turn on key then press ok..”
I turn on the key but once I click “ok”, I am greeted with the command to “switch off ignition”
It won’t connect.
I have had advice from two very good guys here today who usually hold my hand through things like this, but after all the great suggestions, any of which could have worked, I cannot get hooked up.
Any thoughts ?
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What were the suggestions, so we don't repeat them?
Presume you set GuzziDiag to Norge/5AM in the preferences?
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What were the suggestions, so we don't repeat them?
Presume you set GuzziDiag to Norge/5AM in the preferences?
Ok yeah..
Go back to preferences and check if the W5AM wants a new port.
Check that there are no other ports as alternatives..(there are not..)
It’s shows my lack of the most fundamental of skills on this subject, I cannot reverse over the processes well enough to explain what I did, but they made sense at the time.
It is really useful to acknowlege, that I can get perfect results with the 7SM on the ‘85, so my methodology is sound.
It is when I disconnect the 7SM compatible plug and attach the 5AM one, that the trouble starts, so it’s not the computer or the Lon Lec harness, at least up to this bit..
(https://i.ibb.co/NN1MGQk/8-BBFC060-A0-F5-4-AAB-B2-F5-4-D02-F1-F8199-C.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NN1MGQk)
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So..how many beers have you had? :laugh:
Maybe try the adapter test. It's not beyond the realms of possibility that the cable has crapped itself.
https://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/AdapterTest_V1.01.zip
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when all else fails try rebooting the computer and then reconnecting - that's all I got...
Mark
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when all else fails try rebooting the computer and then reconnecting - that's all I got...
Mark
Yeah I tried that Mark.
You’ll recall I mentioned that I changed plugs and hooked up my V85 and immediately connected.
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so the other connector works then the 5AM connector must be suspect - clean up the pins maybe
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so the other connector works then the 5AM connector must be suspect - clean up the pins maybe
Did that too Mark, but no go.
I hope it’s not downstream of the bike plug.
Shame I don’t own a 1200 Sport, I could hook it up to that and all my questions would be answered.
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I just did this last night and uploaded the beetle map for my 2014 racer (stock except for Agostini slip ons).
Is it a good idea to change the information in the "testercode" and "date" box when doing the upload? If so, what information do you put in there? I didn't change it but could always re-load it.
I found the instructions on the Griso.org website to be very easy to follow along.
I went for a quick ride last night and noticed that on start up, at idle it may have sounded a bit different and maybe it was idling at lower revs? I didn't notice as much popping out of the exhaust that I have in the past.
Overall it was easy to do and I got to learn a bit more about working on the bike.
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Just did a hook up to Guzzi Diag with my V85. The system recognised the 7SM and I had no problems checking for stored codes etc...
But here’s the thing.
I changed to the required plug and hooked up to the 5AM on my Norge.
I cannot get Guzzidiag to connect to the 5AM, I have checked that the port is valid and the blue light is lit on the plug so all seems good, but no dice.
I get through to the bit that says “turn on key then press ok..”
I turn on the key but once I click “ok”, I am greeted with the command to “switch off ignition”
It won’t connect.
I have had advice from two very good guys here today who usually hold my hand through things like this, but after all the great suggestions, any of which could have worked, I cannot get hooked up.
Any thoughts ?
What plug did you put the superseal connector on the norge? There is a two wire plug and a 3 wire plug, both fit, but the tree wire is abs diagnostics and the two wire is for guzzidiag. You won't be the first to make that mistake.
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Does Beetle still post around here?
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Yes.
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just because I'm cautious (internet burned recently) is the Facebook "Beetlemaps" our Beetle?
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just because I'm cautious (internet burned recently) is the Facebook "Beetlemaps" our Beetle?
Yes, one in the same.
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I had a hell of a time with the cable. I bought a Lonelelc cable and everything but it wouldn't be detected in a 3 year old high-end gaming laptop I even reinstalled windows for fresh drivers just to be sure it wasn't a driver issue. Then I installed linux on the laptop, still no dice. The cable was detected fine in my desktop computer but it's big, heavy, and watercooled; too much of a PITA to move to the garage. On my wife's 13 year old macbook the cable was detected, but guzzidiag wouldn't run on such an old mac. Even the cable was detected on a Raspberry Pi before I realized Guzzidiag wouldn't run on ARM processors. Finally I bought a new cheap laptop for $300 and the cable worked perfectly. :violent1:
But being pissed and wondering what the hell was going on I finally figured it out. The original laptop only had USB 3.1 ports, once I bought a cheap usb 2.0 hub and used that in between the Lonelec cable and the original laptop the cable was detected perfectly and worked great. USB is supposed to be backwards compatible but I guess for some things it's not.
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(https://i.ibb.co/Kh47fZV/B74-EEE0-D-352-E-45-C4-B65-B-BA3-CA8-FEA603.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Kh47fZV)
Can someone tell me what the meaning of these two terms are regarding stepper function ?
No intention of being a smarty pants here, but does he mean “brake” ?
I understand it has been translated from an acknowledged genius in another language but “brake” would make some sense to me conceptually.
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I just read this..
(https://i.ibb.co/9HnLZw7/85-B4-DC9-B-981-E-4317-8529-C26-BAD7-A6707.png) (https://ibb.co/9HnLZw7)
It helped quite a bit. At least now I know how much I don’t know... :rolleyes:
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(https://i.ibb.co/Kh47fZV/B74-EEE0-D-352-E-45-C4-B65-B-BA3-CA8-FEA603.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Kh47fZV)
Can someone tell me what the meaning of these two terms are regarding stepper function ?
No intention of being a smarty pants here, but does he mean “brake” ?
I understand it has been translated from an acknowledged genius in another language but “brake” would make some sense to me conceptually.
Not precisely sure but the throttle and rpm designated points on the fuel and ignition maps are known as "break points". So example, throttle angle break points horizontal and RPM vertical. So I would assume the stepper motor points are the same.
(https://i.ibb.co/2Z3HDDr/Screenshot-2021-09-17-104326.png) (https://ibb.co/2Z3HDDr)
Ciao
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Thank you very much Phil.
I will try to get that into my head, so “break” is the correct term...
Good... :thumb:
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Edit to keep the thread clean:
I was struggling to get GuzziDiag working on my MacBook Air (2014) running High Sierra 10.13.4
UPDATE: I got it working!
- I reinstalled the cable drivers that Beetle posted on page 6 of this thread.
- I moved the GuzziDiag app to the Applications folder
- I used v46 (I couldn't get v47 working)
- I restarted my computer a bunch.
- the read & write apps seemed to work from a separate folder outside of Applications but GuzziDiag wan't having it.
After a 30 min test ride:
- the throttle seems less jerky / on-off in the low and mid range
- I think it rolls through the shifts a bit smoother with maybe a bit less engine brake (which I like)
- the mid-range feels just a bit more robust
- there was a bit of surging in 5th gear at highway speeds that seems to be gone.
- I'm pleased overall!
Oh, it's a 2017 V7 Stone, all stock. I may change out the exhaust but I wanted to see if I could get the fuelling a bit better first.
Glad Beetle developed this stuff!
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Not too sure , but Windows based laptops seem to have a much higher success with Guzzidiag . Peter
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When you store/copy a map from your bike (Norge) for safe keeping, once it’s tucked away into your computer does your bike still have a “map” in there or does it need the new one loaded ?
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Question is a bit of a problem for me , are you asking if there's still a map after you copy the original to your safe keeping place ?
I installed a "Beetle" map in my 2018 Eldorado , right after I saved the original to my laptop . I can't say that I bothered to see
if there was anything there (In the Guzzi CPU) before installing the new map ( that was my only aim in the first place ) . The instructions
at the very beginning ( in his tutorial) are good and I hope you've gone over them a few times to prep you for the install , and yes ,the
Eldorado is a happier bike . Peter
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The map is still there on the ECU, all
You have done is make a copy to your laptop.
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The map is still there on the ECU, all
You have done is make a copy to your laptop.
Thanks Paul.
A good clear answer.
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The map is still there on the ECU, all
You have done is make a copy to your laptop.
This is true and when you open Guzzidiag in the "ecu information" at the bottom l/h corner of the page you can see the ecu details and the "name" of the map installed. When you create/modify a map you can rename the map in the .bin file with Tunerpro and that will appear in the ecu information screen so you can recognise and keep track of what map you have fitted. All my maps are designated LPC#01, 02 etc so I can keep track of mine and others I have and the details of the map changes and individual maps is kept on my computer.
Ciao
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Thanks guys.
The change has been done successfully.
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Having an Apple computer seems to make this process a lot harder, for me anyway. I did manage to install John's latest map onto my Stelvio but I can't get Guzzidiag to open when hooked up to the bike. I thought maybe I would start from scratch and download Guzzidiag again and the computer won't allow me to open it. It's probably not that complicated but I'm no computer whiz, advice wanted.
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As per earlier experiences , purchase a used Windows based laptop with Windows 7 (seems to work every-time).
They can be had cheap enough and then you don't spend the rest of your adult life playing computer geek ! Peter
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Good advice, thanks. I did finally get GuzziDiag to open and function properly; it took a lot of hit and miss attempts, plugging, unplugging, closing, opening, and other seemingly unnecessary and random activities. Not the way it's supposed to work but thankfully in the end it did.
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Good advice, thanks. I did finally get GuzziDiag to open and function properly; it took a lot of hit and miss attempts, plugging, unplugging, closing, opening, and other seemingly unnecessary and random activities. Not the way it's supposed to work but thankfully in the end it did.
Yes that's the Apple way. They change the environment for programs each version of the mac os. Combined with most mac users don't have a clue with what is happening under the hood. And we don't have different sorts of Apple computers to try every Mac OS and hardware on.
Any laptop with windows will work, only Windows on it is the best.
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What is the difference in the mapping for a Stelvio 2015. I would like to smooth out the low rpm throttle response.
and remove any fuel delivery limits for the European emissions control?
Thanks for the information. best I ve found for the Moto Guzzi Stelvio 2015
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What is the difference in the mapping for a Stelvio 2015. I would like to smooth out the low rpm throttle response.
and remove any fuel delivery limits for the European emissions control?
Thanks for the information. best I ve found for the Moto Guzzi Stelvio 2015
Welcome to the forum, and please take a moment to introduce yourself on the sticky thread.
Your questions regarding a Beetle map would be quickly answered by direct contact at griso.org
I have installed Beetle maps on both my 15 Norge and 16 Griso. The maps transformed a grumblely and fairly rough feeling engine into turbine like smooth towers of power. The transformations were astounding! Both bikes were given proper tunes to "Roper spec" also.
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.
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I just read all 14 pages of this and didn’t notice an answer to my problem.
So I got a windows computer, fresh as new, wiped clean before starting.
IM A WINDOWS DUMMY
I downloaded everything to the desktop so I can see it all.
I have the Guzzidiag and reader and writer programs.
I was able to connect with the reader and download my map.
Then downloaded tuner pro, should there be drivers for that?
When I try to open or import the .bin file to tuner pro it’s blank
Looks like it drops if I drag and drop but still see nothing.
I extracted the FTDI drivers but don’t see where they went. It says ready to use.
Do I need an XDF file? Don’t think I got that with the .bin file from the Norge.
Finding my way around windows is a maze, it’s not very intuitive.
I tried finding a tutorial for tuner pro but struck out on anything I could understand.
What am I doing wrong?
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You need an xdf for the 5AM, otherwise you won't see anything in TunerPro.
Forget the FTDI drivers. If you were able to read the map, the they're installed and working.
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I can not (see) read the map.
Do you mean if the reader can read the map, yes that worked.
Is the IAW 5AM PF1C the original factory map?
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Yes, I meant your were able to read (save) the map with the Reader.
IAW 5AM PF1C is the ECU/TPS identifier, not the map version. The Reader will have saved a text file with all the map details at the same time it saved the map. Have a look at it. It will be in the same folder you where you saved the map. Check the date stamp and tester details. They will indicate whether it has been remapped or not.
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Thanks, it appears to be original dated 11/08/2006
(https://i.ibb.co/Wy88TwM/DBF4-D6-C9-742-D-468-F-B734-C9-B40-FB00-EFA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Wy88TwM)
It’s done 94,000 miles, any reason to update it? Pretty sure I know the answer.
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If you're happy with the way it runs, leave it.
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Just wondering what advantages would be in the newer versions of Diag besides doing newer models.
I'm running Diag VO.47 now there's .60, Writer .20 now there's .24, Reader .22 now there's 28. Reader & writer are for 5AM.
Just wondering if I need updated versions if I don't work on newer junk models that I don't deal with?
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Nah. Unless you want to troubleshoot ABS in a Norge or Stelvio, et al.
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OK Thanks. You got one happy guy today! Tazio on here got his Griso touched. I was the last & only one who's touched it and set it up new . In 44Kmi it was almost perfect yet. Never an issue. He said "You let the Beast out!" today.
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:laugh: :thumb:
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Today I did a TPS reset on my V85. It (of course) has the 7SM ECU.
I did the “handle self learning” and then the “throttle self learning” as per Beetle’s instruction and that went predictably well.
I do find though, that after doing “handle self learning”, I need to go out of the program and come back in to complete the “throttle self learning”.
Going straight from one to the other does not work for me.
But here’s the thing…
When I go to “reset self learning parameters”, I always get the red triangle of death with hazard flashers illuminating and associated warning on the panel. I have read Beetle’s word on this and I think he pre empted this issue and suggested it does not happen on all bikes.
When you guys do a reset on your V85’s, are you able to do the handle re set, then immediately scroll down to throttle reset and get a satisfactory result ?
Also, what’s the word on the “reset self learning parameters” apparent anomaly?
Thanks in advance.
Huzo.
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Today I did a TPS reset on my V85. It (of course) has the 7SM ECU.
I did the “handle self learning” and then the “throttle self learning” as per Beetle’s instruction and that went predictably well.
I do find though, that after doing “handle self learning”, I need to go out of the program and come back in to complete the “throttle self learning”.
Going straight from one to the other does not work for me.
But here’s the thing…
When I go to “reset self learning parameters”, I always get the red triangle of death with hazard flashers illuminating and associated warning on the panel. I have read Beetle’s word on this and I think he pre empted this issue and suggested it does not happen on all bikes.
When you guys do a reset on your V85’s, are you able to do the handle re set, then immediately scroll down to throttle reset and get a satisfactory result ?
Also, what’s the word on the “reset self learning parameters” apparent anomaly?
Thanks in advance.
Huzo.
Huzo, the ECU in the 1400's, V85, and other throttle by wire bikes are a bit more problematic than in the CARC bikes and V7iii and older.
During my brief stint with the MGX-21 I had similar issues, and had to do one at a time (closing out program), not concurrent as with mz Griso, 1200 Sport, Stornello, etc. I did get the triangle of death and had to pull the battery cable to get it to go away. I didn't attempt to use it afterwards.
Chalk it up to a more complex and locked ECU?
I hope the Guzzi Diag Gurus can figure out how to make it work reliably on new and future models. It is such a great tool.
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My Audace had troublesome fueling at lower rpms in lower gears. I wanted to do some remapping but due to some problems others had and due to Beetle's caution I left it alone. I put a Boosterplug in it which made it a little better. I no longer own the bike but this wasn't the reason but was the reason for one drop.
kk
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Thanks guys.
That’s encouraging.
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Another thing to try is wait a minimum of 30 seconds between performing the Handle and Throttle relearning.
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Another thing to try is wait a minimum of 30 seconds between performing the Handle and Throttle relearning.
Ok, I’ll adopt that.
Thank you.
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The triangle does not appear until I do the re learn parameters step.
I’ll re read Beetle’s tutorial on the subject.
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When you do a “reset self learning parameters” you clear out the handle and throttle settings, so that step should be the first to do. After that the handle/throttle learning. There is not much that can go wrong, with same Guzzidiag software a great number of Aprilia V4 get new maps too. Most people get it done first try.
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Ok Paul, I will do that as a matter of course on my next encounter.
You will no doubt, understand my natural reluctance to depart from the order that Beetle dictates. Half way down page #1 of this tutorial he outlines specifically the method and order of the procedure and it is…
#1
Handle self learning
#2
Throttle self learning
#3
Reset auto learning parameters.
As mentioned, he does acknowledge that SOME bikes exhibit the trait that mine does and outlines the remedy. But I’ve nothing to lose by taking your advice on board as much as a learning tool as anything else, so I’ll be sure to do so.
Thank you.
Huzo.
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To read and backup your existing map, open the Reader for you ECU. Your computer may have multiple COM ports, so select the correct one from the drop-down box. it is usually the last one or highest number. if it doesn't connect at first, keep trying different ports. In my example, I only have one, COM4.
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/reader2.jpg)
Then, click on 'read'
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/reader1.jpg)
A dialog box will open, and here you can select the folder where you want to save the .bin file. You can name it anything you like.
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/reader3.jpg)
Click 'save'. You will then get:
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/reader4.jpg)
Turn your keyswitch to 'on'. Do not start the engine. Reader will start downloading. It will take about 15 minutes to backup the map for CARC bikes & V7/V9, and about 30 minutes for the 7SM.
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/reader5.jpg)
When it has finished, it will ask you to switch off your keyswitch. Obey.
(http://www.GRiSO.org/guzzidiag0/reader6.jpg)
Done!
Trying to get acquainted with my "new" CalVin . . . I can't get Reader (IAW15xReader_V0.68) to save the current map. When I click on Read, type a file name, and click Save I get a dialog box that's different than in these instructions. It says to have the ignition off for at least 10 seconds, then to click ok, then to switch the ignition on (and if I hear the fuel pump, I need to close the Reader and try again). The only way I don't hear the fuel pump is if I push the handlebar killswitch to off, and even then nothing happens. The "connecting" timer counts down to zero and Reader closes without having saved anything but my file name (0-bit file size).
I'm on a W11 laptop, have used GuzziDiag/Reader/Writer successfully on other Guzzi's. I've tried restarting the laptop and reconnecting the cables.
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Did you install the FTDI drivers yourself, or did Windows do it for you?
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Did you install the FTDI drivers yourself, or did Windows do it for you?
Windows. Hasn't been a problem before but I'll try manually installing them. Thanks.
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These ones, I reckon.
https://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/CDM/CDM%20v2.12.36.4%20WHQL%20Certified.zip
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These ones, I reckon.
https://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/CDM/CDM%20v2.12.36.4%20WHQL%20Certified.zip
Windows will take the right drivers. How many com ports do you see in Guzzidaig if you don't have the usb in the laptop? Check at the option dialog where you can choose the bike. Note what number it has. Then close guzzidiag, plug the usb in the laptop, and do the same, did you get a new com port the number, than that it the number to use with Guzzidiag.
Look in device manager at the ports(com & lpt) at the comport that is added, what driver do you see loaded there?
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Manually installed drivers. Didn't help. Tried GuzziDiag too, with CalVin selected--also didn't connect. There's only one port listed: COM3. Device Manager says its working correctly.
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Try the adapter test to confirm your cable is OK.
https://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/AdapterTest_V1.01.zip
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Lonelec cable checks out--test successful.
GuzziDiag won't connect. Everything is normal through turning on the ignition--after a couple seconds it just tells me to turn the ignition off.
Reader won't connect, same process as described above.
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Lonelec cable checks out--test successful.
GuzziDiag won't connect. Everything is normal through turning on the ignition--after a couple seconds it just tells me to turn the ignition off.
Reader won't connect, same process as described above.
And when usb plug is not in the laptop, when you start then guzzidiag, it shows no port? bike killswitch is on run?
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Yes, check the kill switch, otherwise likely the diagnostic connector.
Pins 1 & 3 go to pins 10 & 9 on the ECU. Pin 2 is ground. Check it is actually grounded. You may need to check connectivity of the pins to the ECU.
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And when usb plug is not in the laptop, when you start then guzzidiag, it shows no port? bike killswitch is on run?
I thought I read here that the kill switch position doesn’t matter? Reader definitely says if I hear the fuel pump I need to try again. Only way not to hear the fuel pump is to push the kill switch to off.
Anyway, I tried with it on and off and the result is the same: no connection.
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Anybody know where I can find a replacement diagnostic plug? Pretty sure they're common bits but I don't know how to find one. At some point in the last 57k miles mine lost its cap so maybe it was damaged that way. I'd rather not have to buy (and install) a complete harness . . .
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2007-Moto-Guzzi-California-Vintage/CalVIn-Bits/i-9Tgq4Zp/0/d882d356/X2/electrical-X2.jpg)
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Anybody know where I can find a replacement diagnostic plug? Pretty sure they're common bits but I don't know how to find one. At some point in the last 57k miles mine lost its cap so maybe it was damaged that way. I'd rather not have to buy (and install) a complete harness . . .
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2007-Moto-Guzzi-California-Vintage/CalVIn-Bits/i-9Tgq4Zp/0/d882d356/X2/electrical-X2.jpg)
I've been able to find most connectors from findpigtails.com I believe that Guzzi uses a 3 pin data connector? It's been a while since I have dug into it or bought my cables. I bet the people at lonetec or Beetle can tell you exactly which plug/pigtail to get.
Looking through the site, this MAY be the right one. https://findpigtails.com/connector/t81b3/
Also here on Ebay https://www.amazon.com/YETOR-Waterproof-Electrical-Connectors-Connections/dp/B07QDS5DKR/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=3%2Bpin%2Bconnector&qid=1677248593&sr=8-5&th=1
What is damaged? Just corrosion and dirt? Maybe some electronic parts cleaner or Baristol and a toothbrush could clean it up?
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Friendly reminder to all GD users.
Select the correct COM port and MAKE SURE the engine kill switch is NOT engaged.
Last weekend, I finally took possession of my new Baby Breva. Of course the first thing I wanted to do was to hook up Guzzi Diag to check codes, etc. Initially, I could not get the laptop to connect. The message received was 'Ignition Off' Having recently replaced the screen and having the whole computer apart, I assumed I had damaged something. It had also been updated several times since last time I have used Guzzi Diag which was about 2 years ago.
With some chiding harassment (joking) and encouragement from the peanut gallery, I kept at it, deleted USB drivers, reinstalled while dongle was plugged in, checked on another bike, but still no connection.
I decided to start the bike and just drive on. It was then that I realized that the kill switch was engaged and the reason for lack of connecting to GD because when I flipped it to run, the fuel pump buzzed and the ECU light came on momentarily. Decided to give it another go, found the right COM port to use, and was back in business. Yeah Dummy me..... Not sure how I forgot this important system check, but I did. In my defense, I haven't used GD in at least the last 18 months, so..... Lesson learned.
This relates to a Windows 10 Machine, no idea on other OS.
So as a reminder, if you are having trouble getting GD to connect:
1. Make sure kill switch is set to run
2. Make sure you go into preferences to select the right model MC and com port.
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Yeah, I've checked and confirmed everything suggested to me in this thread. I've got good ground, correct COM, correct ECU, good cable, cleaned the diagnostic plug with deoxit, kill switch is on, and I just successfully connected to my Stelvio with the same equipment. This kinda shit pisses me off so I'm gonna take the Stelvio for a ride.
Thanks for the links, have ordered.
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Not sure if I mentioned this earlier , but I have a Lenovo ThinkPad running Win 7 , it would
only connect if I used Com port 7. (On my 2018 Eldorado). Peter
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i purchased the diagnostic cable to obd connector from lonlec but as i already had other obd to usb cables purchased for other bikes i thought i would use one of them (cheapskate). however when connecting my 1200 sport and continually getting turn ignition on followed by turn ignition off i changed the obd to usb cable and just like that it worked.
the obd to usb cables don't appear to be universal.
the cable that didn't work connected and offered comm 3
the cable that did work connected and offered comm 4
all cables purchased from lonlec.
weird
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This is the end point of all the buggerising around.
What do you guys think about a reading like that on the stepper ?
(https://i.ibb.co/0Z1QkBr/D564-A133-0140-441-B-A281-5-A2-F18-CF9-D5-C.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0Z1QkBr)
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Yeah, I've checked and confirmed everything suggested to me in this thread. I've got good ground, correct COM, correct ECU, good cable, cleaned the diagnostic plug with deoxit, kill switch is on, and I just successfully connected to my Stelvio with the same equipment. This kinda shit pisses me off so I'm gonna take the Stelvio for a ride.
Thanks for the links, have ordered.
The 15m/rc ecu uses 3 wires, a ground and two signal. The newer bikes use two wire, ground and one signal. So if one input on the cable died, it could still connect the stelvio, but not the cali. I know I have such a cable here. You can't see it, it's just the chip died half.
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The 15m/rc ecu uses 3 wires, a ground and two signal. The newer bikes use two wire, ground and one signal. So if one input on the cable died, it could still connect the stelvio, but not the cali. I know I have such a cable here. You can't see it, it's just the chip died half.
Interesting, thanks. I'm expecting a new Lonelec set any day now.
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Has there been any word from the creator of guzzidiag on if the ecu for the euro5 bikes will be added?
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Has there been any word from the creator of guzzidiag on if the ecu for the euro5 bikes will be added?
Last I heard was 'likely never' something about the ECU being locked down tighter than a frogs @$$
Or something as colorful.... LoL
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Has there been any word from the creator of guzzidiag on if the ecu for the euro5 bikes will be added?
The UPMAP is the only way in for map manipulation (1st map free). It also does error codes (and resets).
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The 15m/rc ecu uses 3 wires, a ground and two signal. The newer bikes use two wire, ground and one signal. So if one input on the cable died, it could still connect the stelvio, but not the cali. I know I have such a cable here. You can't see it, it's just the chip died half.
Success! The new cable set from Lonelec works. I've read (saved) the existing map and written the Beetle map to the ECU. And it runs! The engine needs a tune-up though so that's next.
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Yes, one in the same.
This showed up in one of the files I opened 1 of the 4 programs. The "facebook" is legit? Came here tonight to see what it meant. Down loaded from LONELEC
Received the wires today, plugged everything together and started the process, then got called to do something else, put a new burner in the cooktop stove.
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Success! The new cable set from Lonelec works. I've read (saved) the existing map and written the Beetle map to the ECU. And it runs! The engine needs a tune-up though so that's next.
I didn't realize it would also read codes and do resets, I need to check those features out.
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I'm pretty much a Luddite, but I thought about buying the GuzziDiag stuff this winter just in case... and never got around to it. I'd like to ask a favor: Can anyone advise and link me to the correct cables and software and everything that I need to get, please? I have a 2018 v7iii Milano and a '22 Apple MacBook Pro with the silicon or whatever.
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I'm pretty much a Luddite, but I thought about buying the GuzziDiag stuff this winter just in case... and never got around to it. I'd like to ask a favor: Can anyone advise and link me to the correct cables and software and everything that I need to get, please? I have a 2018 v7iii Milano and a '22 Apple MacBook Pro with the silicon or whatever.
You'll need a Windows machine first. New laptops can be had for $200. GuzziDiag hasn't worked on Mac for quite some time. The links are in the first post of this thread (the V7 III has the MIU ECU). I had a Milano for a spell--pretty bike.
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Hello partners
I come to you desperate, for not finding a solution to my problem.
I have a gilera nexus 500 from 2007, to which I have had to change the control unit.
I have installed the new ECU, IAW p15, and read the software with the IAW15 reader app, so that I can deactivate the immobilizer later with the tunerpro app.
Using the XDF file of the gilera nexus 500, the option to disable the immobilizer does not appear.
However, if I use the XDF file from the gilera GP800, the option does appear, but by default it's disabled and I can't do anything else.
Do you know if there is any XDF file of my motorcycle, in which I can deactivate the immobilizer?
I would also like to know if by copying the .bin file from my old control unit to the new one, I can solve the immobilizer problem.
Thank you so much
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You'll need a Windows machine first. New laptops can be had for $200. GuzziDiag hasn't worked on Mac for quite some time. The links are in the first post of this thread (the V7 III has the MIU ECU). I had a Milano for a spell--pretty bike.
I have my GuzziDiag running fine on my Mac Laptop without any issues
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I have my GuzziDiag running fine on my Mac Laptop without any issues
Good to know. I've heard you could, and it looks like there are links on the first page that are for Macs. Thanks.
I googled the cable and adapter and got https://www.ebay.com/itm/222597558637 but it's a UK link and doesn't ship to the U.S. Walmart was a dead link. The others were some AliBaba and some other random Chinese sites. Anyone have a link to a reliable US-based or at least ships-to-US seller besides AliBaba for the KKL OBD2 USB Cable FTDI FT232RL Chip + 3 Pin Adapter?
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Good to know. I've heard you could, and it looks like there are links on the first page that are for Macs. Thanks.
I googled the cable and adapter and got https://www.ebay.com/itm/222597558637 but it's a UK link and doesn't ship to the U.S. Walmart was a dead link. The others were some AliBaba and some other random Chinese sites. Anyone have a link to a reliable US-based or at least ships-to-US seller besides AliBaba for the KKL OBD2 USB Cable FTDI FT232RL Chip + 3 Pin Adapter?
Cable from lonelec.co.uk They ship pretty quick to the usa.
https://www.lonelec.com/product/guzzidiag-3pin-interface-cable-kit/
or if you have a v85 euro4:
https://www.lonelec.com/product/guzzidiag-euro5-kit-interface-adaptor-kl1-euro5-adaptor/
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Hello partners
I come to you desperate, for not finding a solution to my problem.
I have a gilera nexus 500 from 2007, to which I have had to change the control unit.
I have installed the new ECU, IAW p15, and read the software with the IAW15 reader app, so that I can deactivate the immobilizer later with the tunerpro app.
Using the XDF file of the gilera nexus 500, the option to disable the immobilizer does not appear.
However, if I use the XDF file from the gilera GP800, the option does appear, but by default it's disabled and I can't do anything else.
Do you know if there is any XDF file of my motorcycle, in which I can deactivate the immobilizer?
I would also like to know if by copying the .bin file from my old control unit to the new one, I can solve the immobilizer problem.
Thank you so much
The location in the software, where the immo is, is different on each map. So don't try and xdf for another bike to switch it off, you would just do something strange to the map, where we don't know what it does.
So can you read the map from the old ecu? Then first try to read it and write it to the new ecu.
If the immo on the old ecu was working fine, you can try to copy the immo data over. For that you read the eeprom, with the IAW15xEEPROMTool from old ecu and write that to the new ecu.
All after you tranfered the map over.
The reason we don't have the immo in the xdf, we don't know where it is.
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Cable from lonelec.co.uk They ship pretty quick to the usa.
https://www.lonelec.com/product/guzzidiag-3pin-interface-cable-kit/
or if you have a v85 euro4:
https://www.lonelec.com/product/guzzidiag-euro5-kit-interface-adaptor-kl1-euro5-adaptor/
I've got a v7iii and just bought the one in the top link, thanks.
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Hello partners
I come to you desperate, for not finding a solution to my problem.
I have a gilera nexus 500 from 2007, to which I have had to change the control unit.
I have installed the new ECU, IAW p15, and read the software with the IAW15 reader app, so that I can deactivate the immobilizer later with the tunerpro app.
Using the XDF file of the gilera nexus 500, the option to disable the immobilizer does not appear.
However, if I use the XDF file from the gilera GP800, the option does appear, but by default it's disabled and I can't do anything else.
Do you know if there is any XDF file of my motorcycle, in which I can deactivate the immobilizer?
I would also like to know if by copying the .bin file from my old control unit to the new one, I can solve the immobilizer problem.
Thank you so much
I am by no means an expert in this but my base understanding of the immobilizer is that it is completely independent from the fuel mapping.
The user code and key code for the immobilizer are part of the dash board electronics not the ECU for fuel, ignition, etc.
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I have my GuzziDiag running fine on my Mac Laptop without any issues
Running Ventura? Tell me more, please.
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I got another one . . .
Still working with the '07 CalVin, have successfully used the tools to read/write a Beetle map (:chefkiss). Today I wanted to tinker with CO Trim numbers. GuzziDiag V.60 connected fine, "California Vintage" model selected, and I could toggle through the drop-downs, excite the tachometer, etc. But when I clicked on the CO Trim Start button I saw this (engine temp was above 60C):
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2007-Moto-Guzzi-California-Vintage/CalVIn-Bits/i-hwqtTNs/0/5ec83a8a/X5/IMG_4724-X5.jpg)
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I got another one . . .
Still working with the '07 CalVin, have successfully used the tools to read/write a Beetle map (:chefkiss). Today I wanted to tinker with CO Trim numbers. GuzziDiag V.60 connected fine, "California Vintage" model selected, and I could toggle through the drop-downs, excite the tachometer, etc. But when I clicked on the CO Trim Start button I saw this (engine temp was above 60C):
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2007-Moto-Guzzi-California-Vintage/CalVIn-Bits/i-hwqtTNs/0/5ec83a8a/X5/IMG_4724-X5.jpg)
It's some time ago when I did this, do you start with a running engine?
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I got another one . . .
Still working with the '07 CalVin, have successfully used the tools to read/write a Beetle map (:chefkiss). Today I wanted to tinker with CO Trim numbers. GuzziDiag V.60 connected fine, "California Vintage" model selected, and I could toggle through the drop-downs, excite the tachometer, etc. But when I clicked on the CO Trim Start button I saw this (engine temp was above 60C):
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/2007-Moto-Guzzi-California-Vintage/CalVIn-Bits/i-hwqtTNs/0/5ec83a8a/X5/IMG_4724-X5.jpg)
I've never hooked GD to a Calvin, but some options aren't available. If the GD is connected and hooked up, and the 'statistics page' is populated, it will only give you working options to choose from. It could be it needs to be running or off when you select it. I'm more familiar with the CARC bikes and V7. I do know the EV options are VERY sparse by comparison.
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I do know the EV options are VERY sparse by comparison.
Yes if you are used to all newer ecu's do, the old ones don't do much, amazing the bike runs with them.
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Thanks, all.
It seems whether CO Trim adjustments are even possible with this ECU is a bit of an open question. Beetle recommended I try it to address my poor cold idle, and I am running his open-loop map so I'm good there. There's another thread on here from a guy trying to so the same thing with a '01 California that encountered the same error I am. He was eventually able to make the trim adjustments after persisting with GuzziDiag through various sequence changes. I'll keep trying.
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Hi Harvey,
I am that other guy on here that had been dealing with the same problem on my California Stone.
I have just updated my thread with "hints and tips" given to me by Rodekyll which got me over the final hurdle in being able to adjust the CO Trim value.
It is not quite a slick and easily repeatable process but if you keep fooling around with it, using the Beetle instructions as a guide you will stumble over a sequence that works! I've done it a couple of times now so it helps that I know that it is possible!
Good luck 🤞
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Hi Harvey,
I am that other guy on here that had been dealing with the same problem on my California Stone.
I have just updated my thread with "hints and tips" given to me by Rodekyll which got me over the final hurdle in being able to adjust the CO Trim value.
It is not quite a slick and easily repeatable process but if you keep fooling around with it, using the Beetle instructions as a guide you will stumble over a sequence that works! I've done it a couple of times now so it helps that I know that it is possible!
Good luck 🤞
Hello
Can you post the link to your thread?
thank you
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Try this one:
https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=116323.0
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Try this one:
https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=116323.0
Thank you!!! :thumb:
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Nah. Unless you want to troubleshoot ABS in a Norge or Stelvio, et al.
Quick query on this. . .
Has anyone managed to connect using either of the ABS options (Conti or Bosch)?
Tried on mine today ('09 Stelvio NTX) after an email from Mark 'Beetle' Bayley.
Tried to connect with both Conti & Bosch options, no joy.
I get the 'Switch Ignition On and Press OK' message, and then a few seconds after I've done that, I get an 'Ignition Off' message.
Same result with both ABS make options.
I went into the Stelvio option immediately after, and it connected straight away.
I've used GuzziDiag many times on several different Bikes, never had any issues other than this one.
Thanks.
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OK, partial result.
One of the Guys on my FB Stelvio/V85/V100 owners Group said he used the other Diagnostic Plug, the one with three Wires (usual GuzziDiag Plug has only two wires).
I just tried it, and it connected, using the Bosch option.
Tried the Conti option, gave the same result as before, no connection.
Couldn't see any option/function to Operate the ABS Unit though.
In the 'Measurements' Options, you have just four fields, Front Speed, Rear Speed, Voltage, and Relay.
Only thing in the 'Actors' Options is 'ABS Warning Light', Engine Off.
No idea when you'd need that, as the Warning light is always on until you ride off.
So, partly answered, but still no ability to activate the ABS Pump for Bleeding . . .
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Hey guys,
Am I right in understanding that the 2023 Moto Guzzi v7 Stone uses the MIU G4 ECU? If so, what links should I be using for this tutorial?
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Hey guys,
Am I right in understanding that the 2023 Moto Guzzi v7 Stone uses the MIU G4 ECU? If so, what links should I be using for this tutorial?
Mine shouldn't be the last word on this, but I think the current 850's are Euro5 and not the playground of GuzziDiag.
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Mine shouldn't be the last word on this, but I think the current 850's are Euro5 and not the playground of GuzziDiag.
Ah.
That is disappointing to hear. So am I SOL as far as trying to find and troubleshoot my motorcycle’s error codes myself then? Or is there an alternative?
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Hey Guys
I am struggling a bit to connect the software, currently I think the issue lies with my OBD2 and not the link up with the Bike (V7 Stone 1)
I am using a bbfly OBD2 which does boast the ftdi 232rl chip, ive used this product succesfully on my cars so it is operational.
the 3 point adapter is the one in the picture, I saw somewhere that is should be correct.
However using this setup, doesnt matter what I try I get the same result in the adapter test- just jumbled up letters or characters. The Voltage to the adapter is fine 12.7V, i can try different ports, bike connected or not, ignition on or off, just the cables, just the obd2 - I always get the same result unless the cable is disconnected from the pc of course.
Any ideas or just an incompatible OBD2 ?
(https://i.ibb.co/1MQTjwp/3-Pin-Connector.png) (https://ibb.co/1MQTjwp)
(https://i.ibb.co/Gd94K30/BBFLY.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Gd94K30)
(https://i.ibb.co/1mZn0X6/Adapter-Test.png) (https://ibb.co/1mZn0X6)
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I don't think your bbfly is compatible. It does Can bus too, where the needed kkl is serial kkl only.
Just order the right adapter at lonelec
https://www.lonelec.com/product/guzzidiag-jpdiag-ducatidiag-tuneecu-kit-kl-1talia-3-pin-connection/
Hey Guys
I am struggling a bit to connect the software, currently I think the issue lies with my OBD2 and not the link up with the Bike (V7 Stone 1)
I am using a bbfly OBD2 which does boast the ftdi 232rl chip, ive used this product succesfully on my cars so it is operational.
the 3 point adapter is the one in the picture, I saw somewhere that is should be correct.
However using this setup, doesnt matter what I try I get the same result in the adapter test- just jumbled up letters or characters. The Voltage to the adapter is fine 12.7V, i can try different ports, bike connected or not, ignition on or off, just the cables, just the obd2 - I always get the same result unless the cable is disconnected from the pc of course.
Any ideas or just an incompatible OBD2 ?
(https://i.ibb.co/1MQTjwp/3-Pin-Connector.png) (https://ibb.co/1MQTjwp)
(https://i.ibb.co/Gd94K30/BBFLY.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Gd94K30)
(https://i.ibb.co/1mZn0X6/Adapter-Test.png) (https://ibb.co/1mZn0X6)
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Related topic: If I wanted to compare two bin files, then how can that be done? I want to learn what maps are in the bin files. I have a stock and race ECU. I'd like to download them to see what is different. For example : It would be nice to know where I could richen up low rpm light engine loads to eliminate lean popping.
Thank you
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For that you would use the Tunerpro software. Search for a thread on that software.
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Just a quick 'Heads-Up' on the Injector test function in GD, on the 5AM Bikes.
L/H Injector does not operate when selected, R/H side does when either side is selected.
Has caused me a bit of head-scratching a couple of times.
I contacted Bernd (GD Creator) to ask him about it, got this reply . . .
I never heard of this.
But I don't know how many people ever did these tests.
At the time of implementation it was working correctly, but I can not remember which bike it was.
I will have a look in the 5AM code to check this and ask a friends of mine with a Norge 2V to make a cross check.
Shortly after, he sent this . . .
Ups ... You found a bug.
I will fix it asap.
So there we go, soon we'll be able to test both sides independently.
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Just a quick 'Heads-Up' on the Injector test function in GD, on the 5AM Bikes.
L/H Injector does not operate when selected, R/H side does when either side is selected.
Has caused me a bit of head-scratching a couple of times.
I contacted Bernd (GD Creator) to ask him about it, got this reply . . .
Shortly after, he sent this . . .
So there we go, soon we'll be able to test both sides independently.
Marvellous… :bow: :thumb:
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Bumped for
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I can DOWNLOAD to my mac OS Catalina version 10.15.7
But I cannot open file.
Any clues working on my 2003 Lemans V11
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I don't have an answer for you except to make sure your getting the Mac version of GD. Then you might just have to google it for your Mac version to get it to work.
Hopefully someone will be here shortly with some better help!
Tom
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I can DOWNLOAD to my mac OS Catalina version 10.15.7
But I cannot open file.
Any clues working on my 2003 Lemans V11
I use the same on my Macbook with OS Catalina. MAKE sure you have the correct Read and Write files. I would have them open on the desk top. I am assuming you have the correct ECM selected also?
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For MacOS, GuzziDiag tools must be in the Application folder, and you must set the correct permissions. Have a look at this video. It may help.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sWSySXfR17c
Alternatively, use GuzziDiag v0.46 for Mac.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/2xvp9m3tc803t9y/GuzziDiag_V0.46.app.zip?dl=0
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I have a 09 vintage that runs great and is easy to start unless it gets cold outside. any time it gets below about 40 degrees it doesn't want to start. If I open the fast idle it won't start. if I leave the fast idle lever closed it will eventually start. once started then I can use the fast idle to get rpms up until its warm. Does anyone have a map that address this issue?
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I have a 09 vintage that runs great and is easy to start unless it gets cold outside. any time it gets below about 40 degrees it doesn't want to start. If I open the fast idle it won't start. if I leave the fast idle lever closed it will eventually start. once started then I can use the fast idle to get rpms up until its warm. Does anyone have a map that address this issue?
I can't help with a map, but my wife's Breva used to do this as well. My cheap fix was to button the starter with the throttle open some and after one/two turnovers let the throttle snap shut. Started every time that way.
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I have a 09 vintage that runs great and is easy to start unless it gets cold outside. any time it gets below about 40 degrees it doesn't want to start. If I open the fast idle it won't start. if I leave the fast idle lever closed it will eventually start. once started then I can use the fast idle to get rpms up until its warm. Does anyone have a map that address this issue?
Beetle's map helps, and noticeably improves mid-range performance.
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I "upgraded" my little garage Lenovo to Windows 11 and now GuzziDiag doesn't work. When I open v.60 (with no cables attached) no COM port is listed--the dropdown list is empty. If I open GuzziDiag with cables attached I sometimes get a port but GD won't connect to the ECU--it waits a few seconds and tells me to switch off the ignition. I've tried uninstalling/reinstalling (GuzziDiag and Windows 11), multiple re-starts, etc. I downloaded and extracted the drivers from the page linked on the GD page.
Before I revert back to Windows 10 is there something I'm missing?
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Open Device Manager. Connect the OBD USB cable. Confirm a COM port appears, and if so what number. If nothing happens, try another USB port.
Delete the GuzziDiag .ini file, then open GuzziDiag and check the connection settings. Select the port previously noted.
Try to connect.
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Open Device Manager. Connect the OBD USB cable. Confirm a COM port appears, and if so what number. If nothing happens, try another USB port.
Delete the GuzziDiag .ini file, then open GuzziDiag and check the connection settings. Select the port previously noted.
Try to connect.
That worked. Connected and uploaded a new map to the Stelvio. Thank you.