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I've had this problem before. Throttle cable has worn/kinked/binding, and not allowing to returnAnother very slight possibility, the lube you used on the cable is to thick, colder weather i's even thicker and binding.But my guess is, time for a new cable.
I should think the 850's cables are the same as my earlier V7's - twisted stainless wire in a Teflon lined sheath. Lubrication is not required, but should be avoided. The lube ends up causing the cable to stick, and some lubes melt the Teflon. If they don't run freely, remove them them, check for integrity & smooth action. Replace with new if necessary.
If you do want to lube the cables, I’d use lube for wire feed welders. It will not do anything detrimental to the cable liner. It is conducive so the only problem I’ve had with it is when I use it on a cable that terminates inside a carb, it could short out the spark plug if too much is used.
It’s not a reflection of you or your bike, but getting something like a Guzzi means you have to develop some mechanical skills.You should not have to, but this is the way of it.The first instinct I would have obeyed in this case was to see if there was any free play in the cable, or disconnected the cable from the drum and checked for binding in the cable or the quadrant...It can be a steep learning curve initially and absolutely exasperating, but you pick up skills as you go and it can be part of the “charm...” I am exactly the same as you when my computer stops..I have no diagnostic skills whatsoever and only learn barely what I need, to get done what I have to. The bike does not hate you, but with these things you have to fill in the gaps between what you expect and what you got. Once you have done that, you will have your bike “sorted” and will enjoy it more than you thought you were going to.Just stay in touch here and there is very little that cannot be thought through with the combined knowledge of the group.
If you are doing a clutch on a Mini you have more than average skills. A shop owner I know did one a ways back it was a massive job. I don’t remember what he had to do but I think he may have had to pull the engine. kk
Well I realize the bike is Inanimate object and it doesn’t hate me and that mechanical skills are indeed necessary. I was just mentally done at that point. I have an odd sense of humor and find ways to amuse myself by titles such as this and it helps me not to throw a wrench. It just not what I expected after only 5000 miles.I to am at a loss when computer programs are involved and relays and the electrical end of things. I’m certainly not a mechanical genius but I am able to do what I need. I currently am swapping out a clutch on my wife’s mini for instance. I found the cables had been routed the wrong way when I pulled the tank today and corrected the issue. So far so good.
So there’s several ways to do it. I found a suggestion to drop the subframe with the vehicle lifted which gave me access to lower the transmission once unbolted and roll it out with a jack. It’s been a job but not impossible. Waiting on a seal but these dual mass fly wheels are interesting stuff. It’s honestly an impressive design.
Your Kill switch and Neutral switch do not work? RPMS hang when you release throttle?RPMs drop on clutch release?If your bike is under warranty, take it to a good shop, even if you have to ship it. Don't let those monkeys play with it anymore.But if I remember, you have removed the AIC/reed valves, removed the evap system, and a few other things. Those may effect your hanging RPM issue, but have nothing to do with loss of the neutral light and gear indicator, or that the engine kill switch doesn't work. Someone buggered something pretty badly. I'd have the tank off, go over all the TB vaccum lines and connections, the reed valve mods, then track down the loss of neutral light and then the kill switch issue.
I did remove the evap canister but nothing else is removed. I may reattach it. Just to rule it out. You may be thinking the previous v7ii I had with ran great. I did remove and swap quite few things on that.
Didn't you also bypass the secondary air system? (blows air over the exhaust valve/port) Just trying to help you track the issues down. The Evap system got pretty complex in later years. I removed it off my Griso and Norge and 1200 Sport, but left it on the Stornello due to it being a bit different. The V7iii & 850 look a bit more complex.
If I read right. The neutral light, kill switch and hi idle has shown up after the shop worked on it?Kill switch: Find a wiring diagram and see if you can find a connector for it. Pull apart, inspect and attach. Shop may not have fully seated it.Neutral light: Same as above.Hi idle: Check again to make sure it routed as smooth as possible. Check to make sure outer cable ends are seated and the inner ends are working smoothly. If not too difficult, remove the TB end and slide the outer housing and see if it feels sticky. If this throttle has the return cable, make sure it's adjusted properly. If you do remove the cable end from what it attaches to, make sure that piece is not sticky.Hope this helps a little,Tom
Honestly appreciate the brainstorming. The only thing I did with this bike was removed the evap canister and plug the line and let the other one breathe for the tank vapors. I didn’t touch anything else until the kickstand sensor failed and I bypassed it to have transportation to work. I hope I haven’t come off to prickly to anyone. Really appreciate everyone’s input just stumped. Could removal of the evap canister theoretically cause this? I checked all possible vacuum leak locations that are obvious to me. Is there another area I can check?