Front Wheel Bearing Removal Made Easy

[toukow]

I had read about this somewhere, but wasn't sure if it was on here or not, so thought I'd post just in case. I was able to get out the rear wheel bearings in the normal fashion on a 99 Bassa, driving out the opposite side with a long cold chisel or punch. But I could not land anything on the opposite front bearing inside surface due to the close fitting spacer that runs between bearings, which the axle goes through. A 3/4" Hilti type concrete bolt worked very well. Had to add some washers, snugged it up, then could drive against the bolt to remove the bearing. Obviously this method only works if the wedge bolt size corresponds to the bearing race I.D. For that reason I still want to buy a blind bearing puller kit of some sort, but this worked well in a pinch.

 I had assumed it must be slightly flaring the end of the spacer tube, but I did not notice anything of the sort upon reassembly. Just thought I'd mention it, Dean

[rodekyll]

Good one!

[Zoom Zoom]

I purchased one of these years ago. They are still 60 bucks. Works slicker than moose poop!

http://pitposse.com/whbereset.html

(In case someone wants to not fabricate something.)

John Henry

[krglorioso]

John Henry is right!  The "Pit Posse" is a remarkable tool.  I used one to remove the front wheel bearings in a 2003 EV and it was child's play.  If I blinked, I'd have missed the procedure.  Just today returned the tool to its owner, former MGNOC NorCal area rep Don Van Zandt.  What an eye opener it was!

Ralph

[leafman60]

I purchased one of these years ago. They are still 60 bucks. Works slicker than moose poop!

http://pitposse.com/whbereset.html

(In case someone wants to not fabricate something.)

John Henry

That's what I use.  You can buy the individual components from several sources if you specifically want a particular size only.

[toukow]

I purchased one of these years ago. They are still 60 bucks. Works slicker than moose poop!

http://pitposse.com/whbereset.html

(In case someone wants to not fabricate something.)

John Henry

I had seen the Pit Posse recommended in several places and am considering it. It's only $45 on Amazon with free shipping which is a great price. It looks foolproof (very helpful for me) and robust, but it won't work on a blind bearing where there is no access to backside, will it? I was hoping to buy a set that would handle that situation as well. I may be asking too much from a single tool at this price point.

[leafman60]

I had seen the Pit Posse recommended in several places and am considering it. It's only $45 on Amazon with free shipping which is a great price. It looks foolproof (very helpful for me) and robust, but it won't work on a blind bearing where there is no access to backside, will it? I was hoping to buy a set that would handle that situation as well. I may be asking too much from a single tool at this price point.

Nope. You have to have access from the back side that allows you to drive the wedge rod into the collet to spread it inside the bearing inner race and then you knock the bearing out from the back side.

[Rich A]

I tack weld a piece of scrap metal across the inner races of the bearing, then knock it out with a punch.

Rich A

[vf84pc]

Would this be more effective than the kit from Harbor freight?

http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-hole-bearing-puller-95987.html

[toukow]

I tack weld a piece of scrap metal across the inner races of the bearing, then knock it out with a punch.

Rich A

I thought I had read about running a bead around the OD, but didn't understand how that really works. Given my welding skills, or lack thereof, I'd be nervous. Seems like a slick fix though....

[Sasquatch Jim]

  When you run a weld bead around the inner side of the outer race, you are depositing liquid metal, as it cools it pulls hard against the race, shrinking the diameter by a thousandth of an inch or so.  The bearing race should then slip out easily.

[John Warner]

. . . could not land anything on the opposite front bearing inside surface due to the close fitting spacer that runs between bearings . . .

Close fitting to the Hub Bore, or just 'tight' between the bearings?

You should be able to lever the spacer to one side enough to get a sharp-edged drift onto the inner race.
The Spacer may be 'snug' between the Bearings, but a good strong 'nudge' with a long, sturdy Drift will shift it enough.

[toukow]

Close fitting to the Hub Bore, or just 'tight' between the bearings?

You should be able to lever the spacer to one side enough to get a sharp-edged drift onto the inner race.
The Spacer may be 'snug' between the Bearings, but a good strong 'nudge' with a long, sturdy Drift will shift it enough.

Just tight between the bearing inner races and the spacer. I tried to lever it aside, but didn't use that much force.

[John Warner]

Give it more of a push/pull next time   

It's a good idea when you have it removed, to file/grind a wide groove on the inner edge at each end, so you can get a punch/drift onto the inner race.
Like this . . .

It won't affect the strength/integrity of the Spacer, you could go further actually and file/grind a couple of slots opposite each other, so you could tap the bearing out evenly.

[toukow]

Give it more of a push/pull next time   

It's a good idea when you have it removed, to file/grind a wide groove on the inner edge at each end, so you can get a punch/drift onto the inner race.
Like this . . .

It won't affect the strength/integrity of the Spacer, you could go further actually and file/grind a couple of slots opposite each other, so you could tap the bearing out evenly.

That would have been smart. Doubt I'll be in there again, but will modify it if I am. Thanks, Dean

[JoeB]

Have homemade drivers. Some old timer told me about it. I take a long carriage bolt as close to axle size as possible, cut the end off, and then cut a slit down the middle of one end a couple of inches. With it in place I then pound a small steel wedge, the kind used to replace ax handles, into the slit making a tight seal. With heat applied and a couple of good hits I've removed some pretty stubborn bearings. If this was a regular occurrence I'd go with a real tool.

[Wayne Orwig]

In 2006, I changed the front wheel bearings on my 2004 EV in a campground in the middle of nowhere Montana. I used a long screwdriver, and a rock, to beat them out.
It is a good thing I didn't know it required special tools.

The NAPA store in Great Falls also gave me a 'farmers' discounts, since he knew they were tractor bearings. 

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

On our "superior"  drum-brake Loopframes, you rarely need to replace the (tapered roller) bearings and when you do, it's as easy as removing the seal and plucking the bearing out with your fingers. The outer race still needs to be drifted out, but that's no biggie.