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« Last post by guzzisteve on Today at 02:34:55 PM »
If you are in buying mood Joe W here sell what looks like you need. I know a few that have bought his shifter stuff. https://theguzzidoctor.com/shop/1973-v7-sport-shift-linkage/
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« Last post by n3303j on Today at 02:17:08 PM »
Always enjoy riding & camping in Vermont  ...but it's the only state I've ridden in that allows passing on the solid yellow center line! That just encourages stupidity.
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« Last post by Vtduc on Today at 01:55:57 PM »
Hi, I'm a newbee on this site, but have owned and ridden motorcycles for the last 45 years or so. I have to echo the sentiments of all the previous posters.
I live in a very rural part of Vermont, which is already a low population state to begin with. I the past 5 years I have NEVER gone on a ride without a cage driver doing something stupid or inconsiderate. When my wife asks me "how was your ride?" my usual gage is how many bad drivers/ assholes I encountered........ ."Not bad, only one or two idiots today" It's getting bad and only will get worse, unfortunately. If I lived in an urbanized setting, I would seriously consider giving up riding.
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« Last post by n3303j on Today at 12:25:53 PM »
Semantics, by transmission I mean the shifty thing up front ahead of the universal. It's outpot shaft isnt sealed and will pass some oil into the boot and wet the universal and splines.
I think of the thing at the rear wheel as the "final drive" from my BMW days.
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« Last post by Kev m on Today at 12:17:28 PM »
i realize this thread is old, but not dead and neither am i although it's been a long time since i last posted. i am Steve Swan who still owns the 2011 V7R, #21. one detail i don't see mentioned in this thread is for 2011-2012, the R's had the old style valve inspection covers. 2013 had the modern style covers; the old style covers on the '11's and '12's make these machines unique to subsequent year R models. i worked for the local MG dealer from 2007-2012; as early as 2009 that a red-framed V7 was being talked about going into production. originally, the V7R was to be a one-year-only machine, was so popular, the production run of these R's with the old style valve covers carried through 2012, and as i understand it, the numbers on the plates on the steering head were continuous through the 2011-2012 production period; in other words, for 2012, the number on the steering head plate did not restart at 1 and if i remember correctly, approximately 1,400 of these "old style cover" bikes were produced. 2013, the R models had the modern looking valve covers and started a #1.
2011, i attended the MGNOC rally, #12 was there. my dealer friend called me while i was at the meet that he had just removed #21 from it's crate.
What you're calling valve covers is more significant a difference. 2011-12 (12 in NA only) meant the old dual throttle body model. Some of these might have gotten the larger and all metal 5.5 g fuel tank (but I believe earlier ones should all have the slightly smaller plastic tank). 2012 (in the EU and much of the world) and 2013 (in NA) means "new valve covers" and the new MkI - the single throttle body motor and chassis - there are differences (mostly small) in the motor, throttle body, ECU, wheels, and and multiple other components. Can't help with numbers - haven't thought about it again in half a decade. Truthfully it's silly for us to think they mean anything to value. ALL Guzzis are arguably limited (production/edition) anyway. Same with our Carbon Dark and half a dozen other numbered models.
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This may sound crazy, Folks  but here is what I found on my Convert. If I cranked the engine over, with the spark plugs removed, and one of the spark plugs laying on the head to check spark. When cranking with the starter button depressed, the spark at the plug was very weak, and small. as soon as I released the start button I would get one strong spark. also when I grounded either of the dyna leads( left and right) as a test, I would get a bright, strong spark. I started" head scratching".....what does the starter have to do with the spark at the plugs? Then I installed the relay to supply power to the dyna with a big wire from the battery, same issue with the weak spark. It wasnt until I installed the relay for the starter solenoid, with power straight from the battery, that my spark improved while cranking. What a difference that made ! Now The plug on top of the head gets a HUGE bright spark while cranking, and the bike starts right up, like never before. Previously, it would crank and crank,while the start button was being depressed, and only as the starter button was released, would the bike fire up.  Rick D.
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« Last post by izzug otom on Today at 11:58:09 AM »
Bit of controversy here. I pour the whole liter of Amsoil Manual Transmission and Transaxle lube into my transmissions at change. Some of it always migrates out at the output shaft and ends up in the boot. This lubricates the splines, needle bearings and the swingarm bore ahead of the carrier bearing. Haven't lost a universal yet. Haven't had to fight corrosion to remove a carrier bearing.
I think the key is that the bit of extra oil keeps out moisture in the universal and creeps into any opening at the universal spiders.
Controversial, I imagine it to be so. Does the rear transmission even hold a litre, 250ml runs out the level hole, you can get 750ml above that, I'd have thought that'd be a struggle? I'm not surprised it finds its way into the swing arm through the vents though, but I've also heard of people having pressure build up issues and fitting pressure release valve replacement oil plugs to account for it. You've had no trouble with seals etc though? If the trans oil is getting up to the uj and lubricating the actual needle bearings somehow, I'm not quite sure how it'd do that, but if it did, it'd mean that the oil would have flushed the grease out of the bearing. This is why many say it's not a great idea to soak them in oil before fitting, the only thing it can do by soaking it, would be for the oil to contaminate the grease, and at the same time, not really providing any benefit I think I'll treat the trans as prescribed by Guzzi, and use a heavy duty tacky grease for internal protection. I'm sure I've heard of a different set up on some Guzzi's, where oil travelled up the swing arm by design, but I'm pretty sure it wasn't achieved by intentionally overfilling the recommended oil level in the bevel drive. Interesting though, thanks 
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« Last post by izzug otom on Today at 11:30:54 AM »
Having rebuilt a BMW driveshaft for my 04, I was not completely happy with the results. I ended up with a used part for very little money that was in good condition. I put the rebuilt on the shelf for a spare. So if used parts can be sourced at reasonable prices they are a great way to keep your bike rolling. One note on when the swing arm is installed I would use a bit of loctite on the bearing caps and paint mark a spot. The spot makes it easy to see if it moves. I had a cap and bearing loosen and luckily I spotted it before it fell out.
Yes, I'd seen used uj's for around £75, which would be £100 cheaper than the new one I bought, and about £230 cheaper than buying a couple of crosses, failing at fitting them, and then buying a new uj, doh  , but I didn't fancy a used one, as I wanted to do my best to ensure the job would last a long time. If I ever felt I was doing some serious travelling and felt it was worth taking a spare, I'd buy a used one no problem, but I don't intend on parting with my bike, I have no desire for others, with the exception of maybe a 250ish off roader for something light and nippy around the city, and a bit of nostalgic green laning, but my Guzzi will be my main bike as long as I can keep it that way, so I'll hopefully use it enough to maybe have to service it next time it's required, and may as well make that as many miles away as possible, but if I can make it last another 28yrs, I'd perhaps be prepared to give it up, I'd be 90  So yeah, I just thought buy new and be done with it. My original one would have been ok, but the state of things in there, I thought it would have suffered. The state was mostly cosmetic though, it felt fairly similar to the new one, and on inspecting the needle bearings and cups, after I'd dismantled them, they weren't in a bad state at all. But I don't regret that decision, because it'd have been a concern when riding, particularly at high speed, the last time you want to have such concerns I wanted to do a thorough job, and didn't want to fk the refurb crosses up, but you have to take the rough with the smooth, and when it's back together it's going to be smooth. Which is the best way, you don't want the rough bit at the end I like the idea re the paint spot, thanks
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« Last post by n3303j on Today at 10:36:05 AM »
Misdirected attention just came up on AvWeb. We have a generation trained to "watch the screens". Now they are putting screen instrumentation into modern small airplanes. Instructors are finding out they have to push students eyes away from the screen and get them to look out the window and fly the plane.
I look at modern cars and see these huge color moving image screens right in sight of the driver. Bet that is keeping more drivers occupied inside their box instead of focusing attention out the windows.
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« Last post by kballowe on Today at 10:19:11 AM »
Got a room at the Black Rock Roost - downtown Talihina. 
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