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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Kane on April 19, 2021, 03:03:56 PM
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Hi Folks, What is a good, easy, and effective way to clean up the inside of a gas tank?
I watched a video of someone filling the tank with household white vinegar and metal screws, letting it sit for 24 hrs with periodic agitation, followed by a water rise, then swishing marvel mystery oil around to displace the water, followed by a few gasoline rinses. This sounds like a good way to me as the only toxics to dispose of will be the gasoline rinse. Has anyone tried this way, and how well did it work? Or a better way?
After getting the rust out of the tank, do you coat the inside of the tank or just carry on with bare metal?
I have just begun the process of reviving/restoring an 850 T3 that has been sitting unstarted for at least two years. It was stored with about 2 gallons of gas in the tank. Yesterday I drained the tank and today am cleaning and degreasing the bike and will try to clean up the carbs. It’s been a while since I’ve had an older carbed bike and this should be a fun project. It sure is nice being able to pull off a gas tank so simply and easily compared to my V11. My first motorcycle many years ago was a ‘75 850 T. Hope all are well and thanks as always for your good advice!
Cheers!
(https://i.ibb.co/sRpswDh/279-B7173-B4-E5-41-D5-A334-A7-E5-FD3-B7465.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sRpswDh)
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I use Evaporust filled to the brim, leave it sit for a week or two
If you add an aquarium heater every 10 Degrees C will reduce the reaction time in half. Heat and rust remover works great.
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Hand full of drywall screws. Wrap it in a heavy movers blanket and lots of tape. Put it in the clothes dryer and turn it on air dry. Joking? Yeah, kind of, but it has been done :rolleyes: Tank was sealed and is still going strong.
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Lots of ideas here: https://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_fuel_tank_cleaning_and_coating.html
The electrolysis method works well for tanks that have both rust and "varnish" inside.
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I use Metalrescue to derust tanks. Water soluble and non toxic and comes in 5 gallon pails. Leave it in there for a day or two. I can get four or five uses out of a pail. Then keep it filled with fresh gas, or if going to sit swirl in some 30 wt.
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Thanks for the ideas. I’ve used Evaporust on tools, and it’s impressive. Didn’t think of it for the tank. I’m guessing that Metalrescue may be a similar not-too-toxic acid solution? So after using, is it a simple water flush followed by gas flush? It sounds like you guys may be doing this as a periodic maintenance.
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A pound of broken tempered glass, a quart of Rust eze, seal all opening s, place in box. Put in clothes dryer, air only setting for several 10 minute cycles. Ro tate box to different sides to get all inside surfaces.
Do this when the Wife is gone. Same rule as using the oven as a paint dryer.
If you can, use the big dryers at aocal un attended coin laundry.
Me, I own a coin laundry and have revive many tanks this way.
Buy som copper root killer granular at the hardware store Mix with water. Rinse out glass and dirt, then slosh the copper root killer inside the tank to add a copper protective coating and prevent flash rusting.
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No worry about disposing of gas used as a flush.
With modern fuel being 10% ethanol I wouldn't worry about a bit of moisture in the tank after a hot water rinse and a few minutes with a shop vac to get most of the water out. The remaining bit of water will combine with the ethanol and pass through the system unnoticed.
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Lots of ideas here: https://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_fuel_tank_cleaning_and_coating.html
The electrolysis method works well for tanks that have both rust and "varnish" inside.
+1^^^. I've down more than a few vintage outboard motor tanks using electrolysis.
Larry
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I use Evaporust filled to the brim, leave it sit for a week or two
If you add an aquarium heater every 10 Degrees C will reduce the reaction time in half. Heat and rust remover works great.
+1 on Evaporust! Expensive but it can be re-used - some have filtered the used stuff through coffee filters or paper towel. Directions say to rinse with water. Distilled water is best especially if your tap (well) water has iron in it. Found that one out the hard way. BTW, the water from a dehumidifier works great and it's already paid for. :thumb:
Edit: Lining the tank is a last resort. Liner that starts peeling is a lot harder to remove than rust.
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Electrolysis worked on my badly rusted Triumph tank but produced a pinhole leak. Patched outside with JB Weld and then two coats POR inside. All god now.
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I've had good experiences with Por 15 Products.
I see they have a full motorcycle gas tank treatment pack now; I just had a bunch of gunk in a tank and used what they called Marine Clean at the time, it may be their degreaser now, but that stuff worked great.
https://por15.com/collections/fuel-tank-restoration/products/motorcycle-fuel-tank-repair-kit
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Hand full of drywall screws. Wrap it in a heavy movers blanket and lots of tape. Put it in the clothes dryer and turn it on air dry. Joking? Yeah, kind of, but it has been done :rolleyes: Tank was sealed and is still going strong.
+1. No joke. I've done this with a collection of nuts, bolts and screws- it worked quite well. The most important thing is to stuff the dryer full so that the tank is not banging around loosely. I remember wrapping sleeping bags around the tank and then squeezing in towels to fill the gaps. Worked well.