Little Green Wing - Aermacchi Ala Verde

[Scout63]

I love this thread and am glad you bumped it Jim. You operate at a whole different level.

[Petrus Rocks]

Great project Canuck!  Gives me something to shoot for with my projects.  The Aermacchis are a real neat bike!

[Canuck750]

Thanks Fellas!  The Aermacchi is taking a back seat to the Benelli / Motobi 200 Sprite build, I am getting close to sourcing the last bits I need for the engine to go back together. Started on my 1975 Moto Morini 3-1/2 this week, I bought it years ago knowing the engine needed rebuilding and I finally got tired of looking at the poor Morini so I finally am getting into it.

[Canuck750]

Been a long time since the Aermacchi got any attention. I went to the Imola swap meet in Italy this summer and found two engine side covers I have been after to create a tribute 'Ala Verde' Aermacchi / Harley Davidson. Both need some work, one has been poorly welded, the other has a chunk missing.



cleaned up for welding



I got inspiration from an Ala Azzura (Blue Wing) that was on display at the Italian Transportation Museum, this was the first model imported to North America that was sold as the Wisconsin, the Ala Verde (Green Wing) has the longer tank, exposed shock springs, slender rear fender, clip on bars

[Dave Swanson]

Wonderful bike and work.

If you haven't spotted this auction there are some fabulous bikes including this Ala Verde.

https://astebolaffi.it/en/lot/151/23/detail

[Canuck750]

Wonderful bike and work.

If you haven't spotted this auction there are some fabulous bikes including this Ala Verde.

https://astebolaffi.it/en/lot/151/23/detail

Thanks for the link Dave, the web site has some great pictures that will be a great resource for my project!

I took some pictures of a Ala d'Oro (Gold Wing) factory over the counter race bikes that were on sale at the Imola swap meet this September, there were about a half dozen of these Aermacchi 250cc races on offer, I didn't ask for prices. One guy had three lovely ones for sale, all fully restored. I didn't see any Ala Verde's for sale.





This group of rare Italian eye candy was on offer, the Parilla racer is gorgeous, as are the rest of them! Instant Giro bike collection.



I think I need to organize an Imola 2023 trip, rent a van and figure out a cost effective way to get some fabulous projects back home.

[Canuck750]

My friend George finished welding up one of the Aermacchi engine covers I got at the Imola swap meet in Italy last month, some time on the mill with a boring bar to cut the points recess circular, and a lot of hand sanding and its pretty darn good IMHO



A wee bit of pitting but thy were not perfect leaving the factory



this cover is the top one in the picture prior top welding and sanding, one more to go

[cliffrod]

Looks really nice, Jim.  Glad you were able to find those covers while you were there.

[Canuck750]

Looks really nice, Jim.  Glad you were able to find those covers while you were there.

Thanks Clint, I tried gas welding on an old wasted side cover I have, it was not a success, couldn't keep the weld clean and I was blowing through as well.

I watched some Youtube videos and ordered some new aluminum flux and some thinner filler rods and I need to back of my oxy and acet pressure to 4 ~ 5 psi.
A friend told me to try welding with propane, he says it works for him.

What gases do you use for your aluminum welding?

[cliffrod]

Thanks Clint, I tried gas welding on an old wasted side cover I have, it was not a success, couldn't keep the weld clean and I was blowing through as well.

I watched some Youtube videos and ordered some new aluminum flux and some thinner filler rods and I need to back of my oxy and acet pressure to 4 ~ 5 psi.
A friend told me to try welding with propane, he says it works for him.

What gases do you use for your aluminum welding?

I have both an oxy/act rig and an oxy/hydrogen rig.  The oxy/hyd is dedicated aluminum welding and I’m still learning- invisible flame, extremely low pressure like 2 psi.  But it’s much cooler so vastly easier to manage than hotter oxy/act.   Whether oxy/act or oxy/hyd, you will find significant benefit from using two stage regulators in excellent condition- especially when welding thin crs or alloy sheet.  Otherwise,  your flame will not remain stable and you’ll have lots more difficulty producing good work.  There’s a shop in Phoenix AZ who can rebuild regulators specifically for low pressure use like oxy/hyd.  He recommends Victor VTS-250 regulators, the only ones for which rebuild parts are still available.  He has rebuilt all my gas welding regulators.

But for something like that side over, I would TIG it.  I wouldn’t even consider gas welding it.  Much less chance of blowing holes because a much more finite area is heated/penetrated, so the whole piece doesn’t need to be on the verge of collapsing like it would be with gas welding.  Clean it out properly, make a few passes to build as needed and finish it.  I use 100% argon with my TIG. 

FWIW, my coachbuilding friend (also named Jim) regularly makes unobtainable parts by fabricating & TIG or MIG which are then finished with files & grinders (and even beadblast/sandblast sometimes for final surface) to the point that the part looks like a casting.  You should see the firewall braces he made for a Bugatti he is building- they look fantastic.  I did some of that already on my Corsa Record for the headlight ears prototype and will probably do more making the missing hand levers for these Menani clip-ons.  In fact, just got a MIG welder from Jim to add to the shop.

[Canuck750]

Thanks Clint!  Excellent information. My ESAB welder can only TIG carbon and stainless steel. I have debated upgrading to a full AC / DC welder that could TIG aluminum as well but that’s going to cost me at least $2K more if I can sell my MIG / TIG / stick unit. I am going to spend an afternoon with my friend George next week getting some hands on experience TIG welding aluminum.

[cliffrod]

If you have room for a bigger/older machine, there’s good deals on AC/DC TIG welders now that people keep switching to the smaller inverter welders.  I’ve got a Miller Synchrowave 250 that cost $1K with everything except the tank and am now seeing more in the same price range lately.  great machine- it will weld anything I need.  Some of the older TIG machines are even cheaper.  The smaller Synchrowave 180 units have fatal failure issues with non-serviceable diode boards, so need to be avoided.  I prefer the analog switches & dials over digital & touch pads, even if I don’t know where they need to be set….  Don’t know much about new machines.

One local welding supply shop has a service dept.  The manager/technician regularly has new take-off regular equipment water-cooled TIG torches that the pros switch out for their preferred torch when they buy a new machine.  Nothing wrong with them.  It’s just not what they're used to using so they don’t want them.  Says it’s pretty common and items are disposed of for a good price.  Might be worth checking if you have a similar supply shop with service dept to see what might be available to save $$.   

[Canuck750]

Thanks again Clint, I will check with a couple welding supply shops here.

[Canuck750]

The ‘second’ engine side cover I brought back from Italy this summer had been welded up very poorly. My friend George the professional welder tried TIG welding up the holes but the filler material used was very contaminated and kept popping with each pass. After two attempts to weld the case George decided it would be best to cut out all of the old weld and make a new piece to weld in.
George used a plasma cutter to remove a large section of the case. A new piece of 4.5 mm aluminum was formed in a hydraulic press to create the concave firm and then after a lot of forming with a hammer and anvil the new piece was tacked in



Welded up from both sides





Plenty of work with a die grinder, file and sanding and it’s pretty damn good

[cliffrod]

Very cool!  Glad to see that one was also successfully repaired. 

Not sure if it was a pic here here on WG or elsewhere, but didn’t they make three versions of lettering on these covers?   Thought I saw pic of one that only said Aermacchi (maybe from one of the various Italian Bike museum pics) plus yours that say either Aermacchi Harley Davidson or just Harley Davidson.

[Canuck750]

Very cool!  Glad to see that one was also successfully repaired. 

Not sure if it was a pic here here on WG or elsewhere, but didn’t they make three versions of lettering on these covers?   Thought I saw pic of one that only said Aermacchi (maybe from one of the various Italian Bike museum pics) plus yours that say either Aermacchi Harley Davidson or just Harley Davidson.

You’re right Clint, at least four versions of the Aermacchi side covers, some had no text at all, just the raised ribs.
This version with just Aermacchi



Then the dual Harley Davidson / Aermacchi text and the typical North American version with just Harley Davidson.

I brought my welding shield to my friend George’s place to get up close and watch his TIG skills, it was so valuable to observe his moving of the puddle and when he added filler rod. I got to practice a bit laying a bead and with George’s help my feeble aluminum TIG abilities improved. I am still on the lookout for a used AC/DC TIG machine to get practicing on my own.

[Canuck750]

Seemed like a good time to mount the 'new' side cover onto the right hand side



I was also lucky enough to find this European market left hand side inspection plate



I hope to make some serious progress on the Macchi this winter.

[Frenchfrog]

Stunning work !

[cliffrod]

It’s looking great, Jim.

[Canuck750]

This winter another Aermacchi 250 motor came my way, this is a 68 model, the 67 and 68 250 four speeds went with a short stroke and bigger bore, the pre 67' 250 had a 67mm bore where as the 67' to 68' have a 72mm bore. Period test reports claimed more power out of the redesign and this reporting was repeated in the Ala D'Oro race bikes that got the short stroke motor in the early 60's.



Every 67 ~ 68 I have seen had the 'Cactus' head and rocker cover on them but this one is different, the piston / cylinder is a 72mm but the head has the 61 ~ 66 and 73 and 74 knuckle style head. The cylinder barrel protrusion fits as it should snuggly into the cylinder head recess and it was a complete motor. The rod feels good but the case bearings need replacement, an oversize piston is needed and the exhaust guide is worn but other than that it looks good. Engine cases are stamped 68 SS so its a bit of a mystery.
I think I will rebuild this motor and use it my Ala Verde tribute, it will need all the power it can get!

Though similar to the Benelli 'egg' motors (125 / 200 / 250cc) the Aermacchi crank is supported by one double row ball race and one single row ball race bearing on the opposite side. The Benelli singles have a double row ball race and stacked up, a single row ball race on each side of the crank, belts and suspenders!

The Aermacchi motor started life as the 175 Chimera before evolving into the 250 series motors. Period race reports of the early Aermacchi race 250's; the initial Ala D'Oro 250, praised their competitiveness but complained about their fragile engines. Aermacchi redesigned the motor to a short stroke 250 in the early 60's and supposedly the reliability improved.

[Canuck750]

This past Saturday I stripped down an Aermacchi 250 motor and ordered all new case bearings from 123 Bearings in France, amazingly the order arrived this morning including the shaft seals.
Cases heated to 300F for a good half hour, bearings cooled in the freezer, bearings drop in with a satisfying clink.





The head has been heated as well and the worn valve guides drifted out, new guides on order.

I noticed three of the rocker cover recessed 6mm holes are striipped. Not much extra metal around the holes for an insert so I have to be precise drilling for the inserts. I made a steel plate jig that I can bolt the head to at a sixty degree angle to the milling machine table, some shimming to get the rocker cover face dead level in all directions then drilled and taped for the steel insert.



I set the tap in the mill collet and rotated the quilt by hand to tap the inserts M10 x 1.25 inserts.



Thread the insert down and stake the setting tabs

After locking the insert I flat file the top of the insert flat with the rocker cover gasket face

Three inserts installed and the head is good to go for new guides and a valve grind



I found a NOS con rod, pin and big end bearing, the bottom end should be as good as new.

[cliffrod]

As always, I’m really enjoying seeing your progress..  Thanks for the pics and update, Jim.

[Canuck750]

Thanks Clint! I am enjoying learning about these Aermacchi singles from the 60’s and comparing them to the Benelli Egg motors I have been building. Each have their unique details, I like the rugged clutch design of these wet clutch Aermacchi engines with the one huge compression spring, a very clean design in my opinion. The cases are also very thick and have plenty of web reinforcement, the Benelli cases don’t feel as solid. The Aermacchi cranks have full circle flywheels, large diameter and heavy, much larger than the 250 Benelli single crank flywheels. One thing the Aermacchi engineers got right is the cam shaft with its bearing carrier and the tappets can be removed without splitting the cases and the kick start ratchet gear and spring are carried in the outer side cover, brilliant!

[Canuck750]

The power sport machine shop I use called to tell me the rebuilt crankshaft with new connecting rod, pin and big end bearing was ready and the bored out cylinder were done.



Sonny’s Aermacchi had the NOS con rod kit and Pooles Cycle in Hamilton, Ontario had the 1st over piston kit.
I followed a YouTube series Paul Brodie has run on building an Aermacchi race bike and used his method to shim the transmission shafts, end float shimmed to .004”.



Waiting on the machine shop to finish installing and reaming the new valve guides and cutting the valve seats.

All case ball bearings and shaft seals from 123 Bearing.

I found a contact in a Italy that may have a center stand and the correct upper triple clamp and fork shrouds for the Ala Verde clip-on handle bars, fingers crossed as this would complete my parts search to build an accurate Ala Verde replica.



Another Italian contact sent me a picture of his fathers Aermacchi Ala Verde bought new from the factory in 1961 and still on the family. Beautiful machine in excellent condition.

[cliffrod]

Good luck with the short fork shrouds and smooth triple tree.  I know sourcing those racy bits can be really tough.

[Canuck750]

Good luck with the short fork shrouds and smooth triple tree.  I know sourcing those racy bits can be really tough.

.

Hard to fine indeed! If my current lead falls short I will modify the fork shrouds I have and weld up another upper triple clamp and machine it smooth. I take my inspiration from your Corsa build, if you can’t find it make it!

Ps I might have another Sprite thanks to your tip!

[cliffrod]

I looked for a decade trying to find a short set of fork shrouds for my little Ducati Sport 80 to eliminate the upright bars.  That was mostly pre-internet and I never found any.  Between the difference in cone/taper and actual headlight ears vs regular Falcon & Cadet parts, making a pair were a major impetus in working towards Metalshaping work. The Corsa Record gives me a chance to still make parts in the same theme and maybe show others that it can be done by normal folks.  I’m anxious to get back to work on it.

Hoping the new lead works out for you.  Eggs usually come in a dozen, right?  You keep getting closer…

[Canuck750]

Thanks Clint!
I did score a center stand out of Italy today and plenty of pictures of an all original 1961 Ala Verde to study.





I have found very similar clip-ons and I think I can modify the fork ears I have by cutting them down and on my lathe making new steel top caps with an opening for the 30mm fork tubes and weld the new closure caps to the sheet metal shrouds.
Fir the triple clamp I will weld up a spare top cap and finish it smooth, it won’t be exact but close enough for me.

[cliffrod]

Have you seen these repro clip-ons available that are very close, if not the same.  Look here if you haven’t seen this site, down towards the bottom of the handlebar listings- https://www.motocicliveloci.it/inglese/catalogue/manubri_uk.htm

How are the headlight ears- regular vs clip-on shrouds?  Some for those cut down shrouds are very upswept vs the straight ones found on bikes with regular bars. 

[Canuck750]

I bought a pair of nice clip-ons with the lever perches welded to the bars and complete with levers. They are shown on Facebook. The Aermacchi parts for sale page. They are advertised as being for an Ala dOro (Gold Wing) but I think they are very close to what came on an Ala Verde.

The Ala Verde fork shrouds are just like the 1st year Harley Sprint fork shrouds I have but they are shorter above the welded on fork ears. This a picture of my project with the typical bars mounted on top of the triple clamp.



This is what I am trying to copy, smooth top triple clamp, clip-ons mounted to 39mm fork tubes and steel shrouds with welded on headlight ears.

.

Another idea I have is to just slide the fork shrouds I have downward by notching out the cut out for the lower triple, then weld up the extended lower triple slot and cut off the bottom of the fork shroud, I think this may be the least amount of work and not impact the geometry of the shroud. Just some careful steel sheet welding for the modified slot at the lower triple and some grinding.