Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: kfz on January 22, 2019, 01:09:08 PM
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Hi all,
Thanks to Harry I havea nearly new dyna ignition unit , Thanks Harry your a star. But thinking I may as well have a go at trying to repair my borken unit. Anyone know how to get into what seems a solid box? Anyone tried this?
These may be pretty cheap in the States but best price in the UK is now £230. Actual value of the components is probably pennies.
Kev
(https://i.ibb.co/82184Zb/thumbnail-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rMDyfr3)
(https://i.ibb.co/0tfrD99/thumbnail-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/SrKBsmm)
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Kev - I don't think there's any way to remove the epoxy without trashing everything else in there. High heat might soften it, but then would most likely destroy the other stuff in there.
I'm thinking the ICU used on airheads (and a lot of european cars) would do a similar job and costs something like $30 at the auto parts store.
It's just an electronic ignition and amp, and hopefully a timer that shuts off current to the coil(s) after ten or twenty seconds if the engine isn't running.
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Kev - I don't think there's any way to remove the epoxy without trashing everything else in there. High heat might soften it, but then would most likely destroy the other stuff in there.
I'm thinking the ICU used on airheads (and a lot of european cars) would do a similar job and costs something like $30 at the auto parts store.
It's just an electronic ignition and amp, and hopefully a timer that shuts off current to the coil(s) after ten or twenty seconds if the engine isn't running.
I think your right. Ive got a replacement, just seeing if I can work out how to open the old one. Otherwise its just going in bin anyway.
Krb
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It's just an electronic ignition and amp, and hopefully a timer that shuts off current to the coil(s) after ten or twenty seconds if the engine isn't running.
Doesn't have this feature.
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Might be the best way is to contact Dyna and work with them. Would probably be the cost of postage.....dependi ng.
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Hi all,
Thanks to Harry I havea nearly new dyna ignition unit , Thanks Harry your a star. But thinking I may as well have a go at trying to repair my borken unit. Anyone know how to get into what seems a solid box? Anyone tried this?
These may be pretty cheap in the States but best price in the UK is now £230. Actual value of the components is probably pennies.
Kev
(https://i.ibb.co/82184Zb/thumbnail-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rMDyfr3)
(https://i.ibb.co/0tfrD99/thumbnail-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/SrKBsmm)
No less expensive in the USA and possible a little more. Dyna III's are around $190 to $215 for bigblock Tonti's depending on where you look. $1.00 is $0.77 GBP.
Agreed the actual value of the components are worth pennies. Just like I can buy a $9.00 chicken or an $0.11 cent egg. If I want to put all the work into it I can raise that $0.11 cent egg into a $9.00 chicken.
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A round carbide bit on a Dremel would dig in to the potting. It's already broke, you can't make it worse...
Larry
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Admitting defeat here. Ive dug down to the board and its completely encapsulated in resin (i think) on both sides, including all trhe componants. Im guessing the box is filled with resin and the board is popped in and suspended.
No way to dig it out and get at the gubbins inside.
Tried some heat, no effect. Real shame I dont like non repairable products, by god i ride a 30 year old bike. Reduce-Repair-Recycle!
Thanks for the input chaps! worth a try.
Kev
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The only potted component I've been able to repair is the electric petcock. A dental burr in a high speed grinder will expose the tabs to solder new leads onto.
Potted electronics? Not a prayer.
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Admitting defeat here. Ive dug down to the board and its completely encapsulated in resin (i think) on both sides, including all trhe componants. Im guessing the box is filled with resin and the board is popped in and suspended.
No way to dig it out and get at the gubbins inside.
Tried some heat, no effect. Real shame I dont like non repairable products, by god i ride a 30 year old bike. Reduce-Repair-Recycle!
Thanks for the input chaps! worth a try.
Kev
There are a couple of videos on Youtube where folks boil/steam the component to soften the potting.
If you want to have repariable/replaceable components you can always reinstall the points.
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Hey Kev
Glad you got the Dyna safely.
The reason you have mine now is that I too hate non repairable components on a motorcycle. I also tried to repair the failed dyna "black box' after installing the new replacement that you now have. I intended to keep the repaired unit as a spare. When I found the reair impossible, I pulled the new unit and reinstalled points rather than travelling with a points plate and leaving open the possibility of a roadside repair. I think the dyna is a great product
that does work better than points but my guzzi "soul" requires that I be able to fix what breaks.
Set up a points plate and carry it with you on your trip.
Ride safe and have a great adventure.
Glad I could help.
Harry
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I'm thinking the ICU used on airheads (and a lot of european cars) would do a similar job and costs something like $30 at the auto parts store.
This is important if true. What year of BMW airhead would this be for?
I'd like to find such a $30 part, investigate it to see if it would do the job, and then either carry one or else its NAPA Auto Parts reference number with me on trips. Much better in my opinion than reverting to points.
Great contribution, Wirespokes, if we can nail this idea down to specifics.
Moto
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I wonder if one from a HD would work?
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The inside is not top secret. It reacts to the pick up. It only generates a pulse to disconnect the coil ground. Any module from many different bikes will work in its place. 2/4 cylinder wiring to coils.
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Here's a quote from an airhead guru (snowbum - Robert Fleischer) on his site about ignition modules (ICU). http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/ignition.htm
I haven't tried using one of these modules in place of a Dyna, but it seems it should work. Dyna uses hall sensors like the airheads, it's a very common ignition system. It should mostly be an amplifier 'sensing' the hall sensor which replaces and takes over the function of points. The Hall sensor provides a path to ground when energized, just the same as points. So it's exactly the same as a points system, just smaller currents controlled electronically, and the module takes that small signal from the Hall Sensor and shoots off a large current to the coil. Here's what snowbum has to say about airhead modules:
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Listed here are reported modules that MAY work OK. The word MAY is being used here, because there may be complications, particularly if you have the later 0.5 (often called 0.7 ohm) twin tower coil. It is my belief that just about any module would be acceptable for emergency use ...but may not work 100% properly, so are only recommended for emergency use. Some people carry one of these on the motorcycle, but modules don't fail often.
Bosch 0227-100-116.
GP Sorensen 11-5064.
NAPA (Echlin) TP100 (supposedly from Globe Motorist, but will not sell small quantities; Napa prices were considerably higher, but worth a look/check).
Standard Motor LX501.
Wells Mfg RB100.
MANY cars use similar modules. They may not be same for logic/timing, but probably will at least function. Don't leave the key on for long periods of time with engine not started, as the internal timer may not function the same, if even present.
Transpo BM-300 Rocky Point cycle.com Also has #9604, Ignition Module, made in the USA. Has Part number 9608, Ignition Module, made in the USA, for the Classic K bikes. Also sells the Boyer-Bransden Ignition. A Microdigital ignition advance curve is later in this article.
VAG (VW and Audi) ignition module part nr. 191 905 351b is a drop-in replacement for the earlier Airhead modules.
Cars that you may find modules on in wrecking yards, or can get modules at auto-parts stores, besides what has already been mentioned:
VW Golf and Passat 1979-1989.
VW T2 Transporter and Jetta 1979-1992.
VW Scirocco 1979-1995.
VW Corrado 1979-1995.
Audi 100 1980-1993.
Audi 80 1979-1993.
Audi Coupe 1981-1994.