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I wrote a couple of tutorials for the first series of V7. They might have a tip or two.Joehttps://www.flickr.com/photos/sign216/albums/72157627672086548https://www.flickr.com/photos/sign216/albums/72157626993357143
Oh boy, let's see ... the valve clearances are different in the 2-3 places they appear (manual, vs. sticker under seat, vs. service manual maybe) ... I went with intake of 0.10mm and exhaust at 0.15mm (they are also listed at .15mm intake and .20mm exhaust in some places). ... oil quantities are off a bit ... I ended up at 1.8 in the engine (vs. stated 2 I believe) ... 450cc in the place where the gears slide around (vs 500cc)... no need to re-torque the V7 iii heads, that is a ii and older thing... if you really don't want to lift the rear end off the group, you can roll it forward in gear to get to TDC. A bit awkward, but if you don't have a stand you might try the odd awkward approach. Overall very easy to do.I also bought the "kits" at AF1 ... they come with OEM filter, o-rings, washers, and factory recommended oil brand and weight. (They are in Austin, TX)
Retorqing ended with the introduction of the Hemi heads (and corresponding new gasket materials). That's been news since the intro of the V9, what was that 2016 or 2017?
But not need to re-torque is a good thing. I actually never could grasp the idea of the re-torque anyway. I mean if a bolt is supposed to be xxNm , why not put the torque wrench on it, set to xxNm, and see if it clicks or needs a bit of a turn. Never understood the loosen and re-tighten thing.