Ultrasonic Cleaners. Anyone?

[Toecutter]

Anyone willing to share a "good name" in Ultrasonic Cleaners? The quality and value of these things vary wildly, and I'd love some first hand opinions, please.

[fotoguzzi]

my cheapo Harbor Freight cleaner works pretty good on carbs and such.. size limits it to smaller items tho..

[Rick in WNY]

I bought this one a couple years back

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DKDAVW/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Done things from rifle brass (17 and 20 caliber, aka, tiny little hole makers) to carb parts. Works great!

[canuck750]

Get the biggest one you can afford.

I bought a Chineses one off Ebay about 7 years ago, about 10:w x 114" d x 10" h, has a heater, works great, paid about $250 back then I think they are much cheaper now.

[geodoc]

What's your fluid(s) of choice with yours?

Get the biggest one you can afford.

I bought a Chineses one off Ebay about 7 years ago, about 10:w x 114" d x 10" h, has a heater, works great, paid about $250 back then I think they are much cheaper now.

[Rick in WNY]

Mmmm, for fluid, I use Simple Green, 1 part to 10 in warm water.

[cliffrod]

I've got two US Cleaners.  One is a small Branson with timer & heater that will do items like a Holley 4v carb or similar items that will fit inside a shoebox.  The other is an EZ industrial unit with timers, heater and two generators.  Basin on that one is 1' X 1.5' X 1' deep.  I've cleaned everything from bike heads & engine cases to entire cast iron range top & grill section in professional kitchens.  Larger items are done one end at a time.  Keeping parts suspended off the bottom is important for best results and to protect the unit.

I've used everything from vinegar (straight from jug or diluted), Simple Green, Purple Stuff, detergent, etc etc trying to beat the $$"real" US cleaning solution.  They may work, but the real stuff works best & it is easily noticed.  It also won't damage parts.  The substitute cleaners aren't engineered the same.  If you use that other cleaner to generally clean and fully degrease parts first, the good fluid lasts longer.   I keep Branson concentrate, especially for the small one, but didn't find the jug for a pic, and dilute it per instructions.  Using greater concentration that recommended doesn't improve performance.  With clean fluid, it's almost like a animated cartoon- the crud just comes off in little swirls.  When the detergents are exhausted, parts just stay dirty for a long time.

It's important to run it for a while to degas the solution before adding parts.  Not doing this will slow performance.  As long as you're just cleaning and not expect to remove rust, corrosion, beadblast residue or things like that, they work.  A gentle soda blast plus US will clean a lot of stuff.  With this crap modern gas, there's no better way to clean the inside of a clogged carb...


 


online upload pictures

[canuck750]

What's your fluid(s) of choice with yours?

I use Sharptek carburetor cleaner, works great.

https://www.sharpertek.com/encashandvab.html

[Toecutter]

Thanks, Gents.

Ended up picking up a 10L "Morphon" unit. If anyone's interested, I'll give a report after a few uses. Thanks for the advice on the "real solution" vs "makeshift stuff", I appreciate it.

[Rick in WNY]

Toecutter, this one?

https://www.amazon.com/Mophorn-Ultrasonic-Commercial-Professional-Industrial/dp/B078KXSMCL?th=1

I've been eyeballing that one, because I'd like to upgrade from my baby unit. I mean, it's worked great, but it is small. Let me know how it goes for you.

Rick

[Toecutter]

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01M0QDSM9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I went with a 10L. Too many old 4 cylinder bikes in the garage. :)

[kirb]

I use the ebay 10L unit...had it for a few years. The heater burnt out, so I put a stainless fish tank heater in before I use it. It's a 200-300W unit. Drop it in, plug it in, wait for it to be warm, take out after you unplug it and let it 'cool' for a minute.

Solution:
I use a 50/50 solution of autozone 'purple power' for most items.
Carbs without rubber parts: 50/50 solution of old school pine sol and water

[canuck750]

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01M0QDSM9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I went with a 10L. Too many old 4 cylinder bikes in the garage. :)

Nice unit, looks a lot like the one I bought years ago but now they are cheaper!

[Toecutter]

I was in contact with the "Simple Green" folks. Their response is below:

Thank you for your inquiry.
 
The recommended product for cleaning aluminum parts and is suitable for soaking carburetor parts, even for extended periods, is Simple Green Pro HD. The dilution recommendation for this application is 1:3. This product is available at Home Depot Canada and Canadian Tire.
 
I hope that this information helps. If you have additional questions or concerns, please do not hesitate to contact me directly.
 
Best regards,
 

Theresa Higgitt
Customer Service and
Business Support Manager
p. 562.795.6091 • f. 562.795.6091
thiggit@simplegreen.com

[cliffrod]

It's helpful to understand the entire US cleaning process.

The process of cavitation (small bubbles being created and then violently collapsed) produces the actual scrubbing or cleaning action during US.  It's an active mechanical process at a microspocic level, not as passive as simple soaking or rinsing that largely relies upon solvent action.  One of the benefits of engineered US solution is that it is designed to facilitate this process and properly emulsify debris that is removed by cavitation.  That's how the US solution is exhausted- it just becomes filled with junk.  At that point, it cleans very slowly & like a less efficient US solution.  Technically, any solvent will work in a US cleaner but the right solution works a lot better.   

The heat of the tank helps degas the solution, soften what needs to be removed and quicken drying when a warmed part is removed from solution.  Various US solution formulas will have appropriate additives to limit rust and corrosion.


Food for thought-

A friend borrowed my small US cleaner to do a bank of 4 frozen carbs from a Kawasaki(?). He didn't want to use any formal US solution, so he got a gallon of cleaner (think it was either simple green or mean green, which he usually keeps at the shop). Put them in full strength solution and over 1-2 days soaked & ran it repeatedly to "do a better job"  because he knew what he was doing.  He didn't- they were junk when removed, much worse than when he started.  New holes through bowls and other problems.  Experiment carefully.. jmho.

[Toecutter]

Oh, I plan to.

I have some old UJM junk aluminum parts and carbs still taking up space. I plan on cleaning some of that first... in a solution a bit too strong, for a time a bit too long.

I'd happily by the US cleaner, if I could find it somewhere without ordering it online, and that price... holy hell.

[canuck750]

Oh, I plan to.

I have some old UJM junk aluminum parts and carbs still taking up space. I plan on cleaning some of that first... in a solution a bit too strong, for a time a bit too long.

I'd happily by the US cleaner, if I could find it somewhere without ordering it online, and that price... holy hell.

A friend of mine conserves his purpose made carb solution, he gets a large pill bottle from the drug store and fill it with the expensive Ultrasonic Cleaner and put the small carb parts in the pill bottle, tighten the cap and put the pill bottle in the ultrasonic tank filled with water, turn on the US cleaner and they claim the solution in the pill bottle will work its magic with the cavitation of the US cleaner. This way they only use small amounts of the expensive solution.

For cleaning carb brass parts a friend showed me a trick this winter, take a bowl of very hot water and place the barass parts in it hen throw in a dishwasher detergent gel pack and let it sit for 3 or 4 hours, the brass parts will look like new.

[cliffrod]

Oh, I plan to.

I have some old UJM junk aluminum parts and carbs still taking up space. I plan on cleaning some of that first... in a solution a bit too strong, for a time a bit too long.

I'd happily by the US cleaner, if I could find it somewhere without ordering it online, and that price... holy hell.

The more you can really degrease anything before going into the US bath, the better.  Really helps solution last.  So does bagging parts as mentioned to budget solution.  Depending upon your basket, you may have to bag the tiny bits to avoid fishing for them.

I totally agree with the crazy $$$ for anything bigger than jewelry cleaners.  Keep watching online for used ones.  While having this exact same discussion on another forum about 2 1/2 yrs ago, I figured I would check out the local Craigslist ads.  Barely an hour later, I had my smaller Branson unit plus a new unopened gallon of Branson concentrate for $45.00.   

Even better, my big EZE unit was free in 2004 irrc.

Good luck.

[Toecutter]

Sorry, should have been clear.

I now have the machine itself.... but the fluid is crazy expensive. So, I'll play with a bank of old carbs and see how they fare, before I toss in my good stuff. To be honest, I really only want this for rebuilds and restorations. Not for regular maintenance. Once in to get stuff good and clean, and from there on... standard practices instead.

[kirb]

This is the 50/50% solution of old school pinesol and water on a Carter AFB 4bbl. Keep in mind- no rubber parts in the solution...
Most of the work was done by the ultrasonic cleaner and solution. Not much scrubbing was needed by me.

[Toecutter]

Damn. That's purty.

[blu guzz]

I clean my vinyl records with one.  No other cleaning method comes close.