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That engine probably still has the original chrome plated cylinders , do not start it until that is dealt with . The experts will come along soon to explain why . TS
Start here - Greg Benders one stop shop of all things Loop Frame, what does not exist on this web site does not matterhttps://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe.html
My friend here RHAT is new to the Guzzi world , started with a Norge and then went backward to an Ambassador . He is out in San Diego on vacation or he would tell you how expensive and time consuming not dealing with the chrome bore issue before running the bike can be . save the headaches and deal with it , crankshafts are expensive. Dusty
Congratulations and welcome Demetrius. You’re exactly where I was when I bought my first Guzzi and joined this forum. I recommend:Buy a good shop manualClean the bike well.Remove and clean the carbsInspect and clean the sumpReplace all the fluidsVisually inspect the cylinders (inside) and pistons. Rotate the pistons using the rear wheel. Make sure the airbox, battery box, timing chest, intake and exhausts are clear of rodent nests, etc.Check steering, swingarm and wheel bearings for proper movementCheck gearbox action and shiftingCheck inside fuel tank and all fuel linesCheck brake, throttle and clutch cables.Then try to start it, but don’t ride it anywhere outside the block without replacing tires and tubes. It’s a great looking bike and will make you a better mechanic
I remember being worried about my cylinders being chromed. Some paperwork I had from when the engine was rebuilt by the previous owner said they were chrome. So dropping the pan one day to check for flakes I looked up and saw the word GILARDONI cast into the bottom of the cylinder casting. Wow what's a relief that was! Maybe you will get lucky too.-AJ
Thanks I am aware of the chrome cylinder sleeve issue. Need to get in there and verify they have not been replaced. Probably not given the history of the bike, but you never know. If chrome looks good, can i run with it for the time being? Or imperative to replace aASAP?
on the subject of petcocks, be aware if you buy the reproduction 'sugar cube' petcocks, they will leak in short order. MG Cycle sells an adapter ring/insert that fits a later ('Tonti') Guzzi petcock to the Loopframe tank, this is the route I went. Unfortunately, like a lot reproduction stuff, they are fiddly to fit. I had to drill mine out slightly and remove the screen. I put inline fuel filters further down the way in the fuel lines and had no problems.
You are missing the brackets that go between the frame and exhaust header they are there in picture No 14
How was it stored all those years, look at the tire date code, post it back here they may be ok for a while if it wasn't left in the sun.
Just drop the float bowls off, nut at the bottom you will soon se if they are gummed up, the jets are all accessible right there, you may have to rotate the carbs slightly to get the bowl off.
Thanks! But hmmm, trying to figure out what you mean by this? Could you possibly post a picture of what it should look like in place?
OK thanks. I've been wondering about this. The bike came with some petcocks which might be original (?), and there are already fuel filters after that. Do I need to worry about adding a screen to these petcocks if there is a filter in place downstream? Here's picture of the petcocks that came with the bike, which PO said should be fine.
I was looking at the petcocks again. I think they are missing the tube that is used for the main, then when on reserve, the fuel goes straight into the petcock.Also, I think one of them has been apart. IIRR the lever should not be able to rotate to where it is.Tom
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipN1vKW2qDfPQ4G2_Y3y5VZB1QFFaFLWDk3isGmtnx9LuxswaZQsmy9E8i-V-D2NUQ/photo/AF1QipO3CQ3lCE0r5SNsod-E4ezRj1CdieLJqSsNrDIO?key=dllJVk9mdW9hSlFyRWZ0Q0Nqb0NMV19QUnFkeWl3Those two clamps go between the lower frame rails and the header pipe just back from the sump, they take the strain off the connection st the head. I can't snap a picture, my bike didn't have them so I used a worm drive clip with a spacer.Re Petcocks, you said the tank was re-lined so it should be ok with an in-line filter. Actually there is one where the banjo bolts onto the carbs but its quite tiny and not easy to get at.You should have a crossover sort of X piece that allows you to run with just one petcock open leaving some reserve in the other side.My bike came with the original sugar cube style which I rebuilt with kits, they are 10 years without leaking. I think the barrel nut on yours is a Left & Right hand thread that allows you to line them up once threaded into the tank.Congratulations on the Gilodonis, it will have new pistons and rings as well, came with the kit, you should be set for the next 100k miles at least.
The look to be the same as what I have. The one on the right is the way they normally are, down, left and right. The one on the left has the lever installed so the lever will go up, left and right.Installed this way, the marks for off/on/res may be backward??My LH one is a little close to the top of the carb, makes it a bit hard to turn. Maybe I need to install my lever to face up?Tom