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Certainly not tapered rollers.If you do that, you then have to monitor preload and the sort of Nm figure that would be called for, would not be sufficient for a snug axle / fork slider connection.I see you are running a side car, so the concept of tapereds is not a ridiculous choice empirically, but you will introduce the potential for a hornet’s nest of complications, although the sidecar wheel may be worth considering.You’ll also be well advised to get some warmth onto the hub if you can when extracting the races, it leaves the bore in pristine condition (if it ever was..).Also when fitting the new ones, warm the hub and freeze the races, they’ll go in so easily, you’ll think they’ve sold you the wrong ones..!For heaven’s sake though, don’t forget the spacer... If you do and you have to belt one of the new ones out..? Don’t re use it.Also.When you’ve fitted the new ones, push on the inner of the left race while holding opposite pressure on the other one and make sure that the inners won’t turn independently of each other. This would indicate that the spacer is not in solid contact with the inners and it’s imperative that it is.If you have ANY clearance between the inners and the spacer, you will brutalise the races upon tightening the axle and you’ll be back in there quick sticks....Why ?‘Cause they’ll be rooted.
Since they are relatively inexpensive, buying both a blind bearing puller and outside puller set is a no-brainer. They are useful for so many jobs and the need usually comes up suddenly. For removing wheel bearings I usually try a drift first. A good selection of larger sockets and a soft mallet are all I need for the install. Freezing the bearing first helps. The first question though is whether to replace at all. On my SP project, it has 20k miles on it and the bearings spin freely with no looseness or binding. Although I had ordered new bearings I elected to keep the old ones in. The old me would have replaced them, inviting possible complications such as improper install or buggering something in the removal.
If you read my original post, I note that they may not need to be replaced, but since I’m rebuilding the wheels, and as I’ve never worked on bearings before, AND because they’re inexpensive enough, I see it as golden opportunity to learn by doing.
I hope I didn’t come off as preachy Dirk.
Thanks all for the tips. Got the bearings out last night. Went to my BMW friend’s house to do it since he has loads more experience with bike stuff…and also has a torch. Spent the whole time there defending my decision to remove and install new ones. He’s an engineer, former military, quite the pragmatist. But he’s also punk, so I was trying to get that side of him to roll with my vision of learning-by-deconstruction. Used an alignment punch (same thing as a drift?). Front hub was easy peasy, but the rear hub needed heat.I looked once again on Greg’s site for bearing sizes—couldn’t find anything. Mind you, this is a small block V7, not one the old farts. Only mention of small block bearing sizes were of an older V50 or 65. Below are the sizes (mm):FRONT (same bearing on both sides):* OD 42; ID 20; Width 12REAR:* OD 47; ID 17; Width 14* OD 40; ID 17; Width 12In regards to bearing seals, is it ok to just order seals that match the OD and ID of the bearing it covers, or should other things be considered?And, I nicked the inside of the rear spacer a couple times trying to knock it to the side. Do the tiny nicks even matter since it’s such a soft material, or should I go ahead and sand the inside smooth?
So it seems you need for the front a 6004 and for the rear a 6303 and a 6203. Not quite sure what you mean about the seals but why not use 2RS bearings as in 60042RS, a 63032RS and 62032RS so double sided rubber seals incorporated.Ciao
Suddenly that donation seems awfully good value eh Dirk ?