My trip meter was suddenly stuck, so in I went to repair it.
First I covered the bezel and glass/plastic with masking tape to prevent scratching. Fit a large enough clamp over the bezel so when you pry the lip up it does not skew the bezel. You only need to pry up about 1/2 of the lip ;-T
Once you have removed the bezel, remove the 2 retainer nuts and mounting bracket. Then remove the nylon form from the trip counter reset shaft. Save that tiny screw somewhere safe ;)
Remove the clock/moving assembly from the case
Now remove the trip meter movement from the assembly by unhooking this retainer
Here is the offending item removed and fortunately the gears weren't damaged but if they were I feel some careful application of some epoxy and delicate filing and you'd be back in action. Note the squared end tabs, they are critical during re-assembly.
This is the movement without the trip meter drums and the slot I am pointing to is for the tabs I just mentioned on re-assembly. The copper looking tang there on the end is the master ratchet for when you rest the trip meter to zero. It just pulls out and on re-assembly it is installed after the drum assembly.
So, what's the problem? When I tried to rotate each counter drum they were stuck fast. What is meant to happen is you rotate the decimal drum in the ascending direction and then as it passes through 9 to 0 it should rotate the next drum one digit so that you count your kilometers or miles.
Let's disassemble this sucker and see what is going on in there.
The first thing to do is remove the E clip so the gear can come off. Note here the blue disc with the flat cut into it, this is the master ratchet I mentioned before that is locked by that copper tang.
Now that the gear is removed we are confronted with this little number. I looked very carefully before proceeding and could see no other form of retainer other than an interference fit. Also here you can see the notch cutout of the shaft length ways. This is for zeroing of all the drums and engages on a spring loaded lock which we will see shortly who I refer to as the soldier without boots :)
So I measured the 'pre-load' distance and
CAUTION NOW pulled off the brass retainer very carefully.
Once the pre-load is off, we can remove individual drums. Note the white gear in this image, it is what drives the next drum as you pass through 9 to 0 again. Unfortunately I deleted all the other images of it ???
So as you dis-assemble the drums this is what you will see inside them, the two little brass soldiers and a spring, a brass washer (
Note its position, I haven't got a photo of it in place) and you can see up to the right the internal ratchet mechanism which lives inside each drum.
One of the little soldiers had dismounted and was causing all the friction amongst the drums. Once I set them back in place correctly all was functioning as it should.
So, this is how the drums individually should be assembled. The soldier with the boots engages the white ratchet wheel. The one without engages the shaft notch. It took a bit of time to mount the little fellas, so be patient.
Once each drum is setup like this, you are ready to start re-assembly of the trip counter assembly.
Now for each drum except the hundreds we need to insert the white ratchet wheel. I did this by applying light pressure and rotating it and then it simply seated with the soldiers boots finding their place. Then fit the backing plate which holds the gear which drives the next drum as you pass through 9 to 0. Then fit it onto the shaft remembering to key the notch
I used a small skewer as pictured here to align all the drums and wheels and backing plates as I fitted them to the shaft. It made assembly easy, especially for lining up those squared tangs, which is basically the timing of the whole operation.
Here is the trip counter sitting in place ready for the master reset tang to be fitted with the skewer keeping everything in order.
Here is the master reset tang. It can only be fitted in one direction as that locking tab needs to engage to hold it in place.
Now we have the master reset tang in place. The skewer is still holding everything in place and we are ready to fit that hook style clip which retains the whole counter assembly.
The hook clip goes over the blue disc first
Then locks on the back of the movement
Once you are satisfied you can re-assemble the case and lock/press the bezel in position and admire your handy work.
The crazing you see in the plastic is due to brake fluid. It has been there as long as I’ve had the bike. The extra one hundred meters on the odometer is from testing to ensure the gears meshed and functioned correctly.
I hope this can help some of you.
Adam.
