any way to adjust steering stops on a lemans?

[amamet]

well, the inevitable happened. haven't even started the bike yet and only had the bodywork on for few days and have my first chip.  the side of the fairing hits the side of the tank.  tank is fine, little blemish on the black. chip on edge of fairing.  Looking at the triple trees, it appears to turn further left that right before hitting the stops. I really see no way of adjusting without adding something to either the frame stop or the lower triple stop.  not too concerned about the chip. this bike will be ridden hard, so yeah, chips, blemishes etc... just didn't expect this so soon :)

[John A]

What year LeMans? The reason I ask is that I’m not sure of the spine frames but on a Tonti frame the stop tab should be bent closer to the fork stops or the stop tab will skip over the top of the fork lug. If you are lucky doing that will limit some travel. A pry bar will easily bend it. If that doesn’t give you enough you’ll probly have to invent one unless someone here already has.

[amamet]

Whoops, yes, tonti. ‘77 lemans

[Groover]

I had that same issue on my G5. I resolved it by JB-welding a sleeve (just a small steel tube basically) that I cut in halves vertically, and attached one to each side of the stopper on the frame. Turned out pretty clean and works well and it's not visible.

Found a partial photo. Forgot that I had used shrink wrap to hold the parts tight while the JB weld was curing and left it on. I'm sure that shrink wrap won't last, but the sleeves should. I don't have the bike in front of me, so just showing what I did that solved this:

[amamet]

Thx Grover. Made me think a small hose clamp may do the trick. The thickness of the worm drive may be just what’s needed  if I can get it situated. Or just jb weld a little piece to the frame and do what you did :)

[Groover]

Yes, a little goes a long way in that spot. I did the clamp during assembly until I decided to spend a little more time on it.

[wirespokes]

One of my airheads came from the factory with a shim bolted to the stop. It's a flat piece of metal bent to shape and bolted through the wide flat side of the stop.

Other airheads (RS, RT) have a wide stop with a hole side to side through it. A 6mm bolt was installed with the head and nut adding extra distance.

In your case, I wouldn't expect epoxy to be the best choice since it's brittle stuff. I'd think a flexible silicone adhesive would be the better option.

[Aaron D.]

Or polyurethane-3M 5200

[lucky phil]

Here is my solution, adjustable and created insitu without fork removal.






Ciao

[moto]

Thx Grover. Made me think a small hose clamp may do the trick. The thickness of the worm drive may be just what’s needed  if I can get it situated. Or just jb weld a little piece to the frame and do what you did :)

I used a hose clamp to fix a brass strip around the frame stop:





The fork's stop is in the foreground. This has worked fine for years.

Moto

[Pizza Guzzi]

Here is my solution, adjustable and created insitu without fork removal.






Ciao

That, Sir, is a very elegant solution !

[lucky phil]

That, Sir, is a very elegant solution !

Thanks and you have used a word there that I always refer to when faced with an engineering challenge, Elegance! I always ask myself the question "is this solution elegant" if the answer is no I look for another way if possible. People have asked me more than once why I converted my engine to Joe Caruso steel cam gears as the chain does quite a decent job and my answer has always been " elegance"

Ciao