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diagnostic no key on

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gbritton:
      Usually can solve my problems by reading about yours.  Have a 2001 California Special with  the will not start condition, that might be related to fuel pump and (crank or cam?) sensor I believe.  Found corrosion in relay holders.  Cleaned and put a new set of recommended relays in along with attention to fuses.  Fuel pump replaced last year.  Also think I found all the related grounds and made sure they look good.  Gas tank would pressurize along with all lights indicating power on, but it doesn't seem to be sending gas to cylinders after that.  Crank but no start.  Went from bad to worse.  If played with kick stand and or kill switch 2 or 3 times, lights come on, but now no power to turn motor or pressure up.  Pulling the battery to avoid damage while I did extra cleaning, continuity and voltage checks, I discovered it would do a reset and come back to life with battery back in.  Recreated both situations multiple times removing battery and putting back after a few minutes.  Got the diagnostics onto my latest computer.  I also struggled with windows 10 drivers, but finally success in getting usb com port  recognized.  I was so happy...  for a minute.  The next step, key on,  isn't recognized and will time out with the count down.  I live in a cold climate this time of year so not urgent, but looking for ideas, to get started when it does warm up.  Suspicious of ECM, but most agree they are pretty tuff to destroy.  It's possible I damaged a relay holder.  Voltage and continuity seem ok, but I know 2 involved are connected and may react to each other, so I'm not 100% sure.  Also see a safety diode in the wiring diagram I've never seen anybody talk about.  The hard plastic piece doesn't appear to open up to change or reset.   I apologize in advance for not running right out and trying your recommendations and letting you know if you are right on.  Bunch of clues for you.  Could be multiple problems. I'm not against new used wiring harness and/or brain and parts, but would love to get the diagnostics going first. Maybe not possible if those are the root of  the power problem.  Thank you for help, Glenn

yogidozer:
CALLING KIWI_ROY.....CALLIN G KIWI_ROY....
COME IN PLEASE  :grin:

guzzisteve:
1st-----------Unplug the sidestand switch. Follow wires up front down tube, may be behind chrome cover on front side of tank.
If pump don't work check relays for power.
2nd----------Check spark---------pull plug & ground against head while cranking. NO Spark check sensor.
ETC-------------------------------

Kiwi_Roy:
First of all, here's a schematic, it may not be exactly right for your model but will be close. Sometimes the interlocks before the petcock fuse are arranged differently.
https://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2002_Stone.gif
You need to establish if you have a permissive to run signal, measure the Voltage at the petcock fuse, should be a steady 12 Volts. A small lamp connected between the fuse and chassis is a good way of measuring this signal.it will flicker if the signal is a bit flaky.
Its very common to lose the signal from the side-stand switch or have an intermittent signal which really upsets the ECU.
Check to make sure the battery is in the correct way around, if its in backwards it may still crank but you will get no fuel pump priming the safety diode is there to protect the ECU from this eventuality.

Once you are sure the pump primes each and every time you turn the key On you need to establish that the crank position or timing sensor (56) is working.
When the ECU sees pulses coming from the sensor it energizes the power relay (50) to power up the pump, coils and injectors so a small lamp attached to the 87 contact will give you a visual clue that its working. If you can't find a point on the loom to connect the lamp unplug the relay and wrap a small wire around the 87 pin, remember it will only close while the engine is rotating, running or cranking.

The timing sensor is just a coil of fine wire wound over a tiny magnet, you can check that the winding is ok by measuring the coil, 680 Ohms I think.
The sensor gap is also important 0.6 - 1.2mm sometimes an owner will add a gasket to fix the oil leak and upset the gap.
I check the gap by sticking a small blob of quick setting epoxy to the tip of the sensor, screw it back in then once its had time to set take it out again to measure.

guzzisteve:
+1------------Roy to the rescue.

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