Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: fotoguzzi on September 19, 2022, 12:42:52 PM
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I’m starting to feel like Mr Nevada :angry:
I got the belt cover off and want to loosen the nut on the belt pulley. So … easy, put bike in first gear and the motor should be locked from rotating, right?
Well it’s in gear rear wheel won’t turn but the nut turns the motor as if it’s in neutral..
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I’m starting to feel like Mr Nevada :angry:
I got the belt cover off and want to loosen the nut on the belt pulley. So … easy, put bike in first gear and the motor should be locked from rotating, right?
Well it’s in gear rear wheel won’t turn but the nut turns the motor as if it’s in neutral.. Wtf?
6 th gear ?
If you don’t have a rattle gun, 6 th gear lock the rear wheel and a breaker bar on a socket, fully load it and then a sharp crack.
Mind if I ask why you’re removing the nut ?
Are you going into the timing chest ?
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First gear
The service station manual says use a rattle gun, mine is up at the lake right now.
On the subject of the service manual, it’s of limited use because everything they do is with the engine out of the bike.😕
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First gear
Nope.
Too easy for the engine to rotate the stuff further down the line.
6 th it is..
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I can get it up to 3 rd gear but not any higher.
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How have you locked the drive train ?
A piece of 2x4 through the spoke ? Why can you not get it higher than 3rd ?
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I can get it up to 3 rd gear but not any higher.
Hmmm....have you rotated the wheel while trying to get it into the next gear?
Just out of curiosity, any obvious evidence that the previous owner has been through this area of the engine?
Minor issue but: "If the sealing ring has been previously removed, replace it using the punch of the timing system cover sealing ring."
It be a bummer to get it all back together and have that seal leak.
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Yeah, I got into 6 th gear..I did try the 2x4 in the spokes and about a 2 foot bar on my socket wrench. I don’t feel I should reef on it any harder than I have, it’s a normal CC off nut I’m sure, right?
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Ok.
Rattle gun and some warmth. Why do you need it off ?.. (not that it matters.)
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To get into the timing chest.. this the same bike we think has the messed up timing. I just didn’t want this simple question at the bottom of page 4
https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=116311.0
When locking the rear wheel with a 2x4 in the spokes, doesn’t that put a lot of stress on the whole drive train, transmission & CARC ? I see in the book it’s tightened to 59pf so maybe I just need a longer breaker bar and I guess heat since it has thread locker?
Heat gun or propane gas heat?
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Heat the nut with either source, just be careful if you use an open flame torch for obvious reasons. Have a fire extinguisher handy. I doubt there is any thread locker but it's possible. Heat will soften it if there is and wont hurt the cause if there isn't. As Huzo mentioned earlier, put some pressure on that breaker bar and while holding the pressure on give it a good whack with a heavy object. A two pound deadblow hammer or a 2 -1/2" round piece of firewood. It is lefty loosy. You won't harm the drivetrain.
Also you can lock up the flywheel through the timing inspection plug by wedging a big screwdriver in the teeth on the ring gear. Helps to have someone hold it in place while you shock loose the nut.
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A rattle gun is the kindest way.
Also, locking the ring gear is preferable because you are not exposing the gearbox and drive train to the shock during loosening the nut. But as you’ll imagine, you are still exposing it all to less torque than normal spirited riding.
If you were on a wet road and spun the tyre on take off, you wouldn’t think you’d been unkind to the bike, I’ll bet that the torque you apply to the drive train loosening the nut, is not enough to spin the wheel with someone on board.
I agree though, it seems brutal.
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Got my rattle gun and it came off with ease. BUT. Now the pulley won’t come off the shaft. What are the secret words you use to get compliance?
(https://i.ibb.co/WyHkNCz/3-BEFF027-C4-E3-4963-B902-5953-BEA773-BC.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WyHkNCz)
I’m so close to getting a look at the timing sprockets and anticipation builds. What should I do now?
Get some kind of puller?
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Got my rattle gun and it came off with ease. BUT. Now the pulley won’t come off the shaft. What are the secret words you use to get compliance?
(https://i.ibb.co/WyHkNCz/3-BEFF027-C4-E3-4963-B902-5953-BEA773-BC.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WyHkNCz)
I’m so close to getting a look at the timing sprockets and anticipation builds. What should I do now?
Get some kind of puller?
The workshop manual calls for a simple puller.
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The workshop manual calls for a simple puller.
Yes.
If you warm it you’ll most likely wiggle it off.
But a puller makes it ridiculously simple.
When you are undoing the the bolts to remove the timing chest cover, don’t forget the two at the top.
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The workshop manual calls for a simple puller.
Of course, I'm an airplane guy.. but.. I always have the manual out on a job I've never done before. RTFM. :smiley: I haven't looked, but Shirley this old tractor has it? Admittedly, Guzzi manuals aren't the best..
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I have the “service station manual” and find it hard to find answers even if they are in there. First off, all the engine servicing is done on a motor that’s completely out of the bike.
The book says nothing about a puller.
(https://i.ibb.co/nMfhS2g/C44-B6420-20-D1-4138-BD5-C-8-B2-C37-E2-B148.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nMfhS2g)
Another example, page eng35, removing the cylinder head comes before removing the rocker arms on pg 37.
The wiring diagram is so tiny it can’t be read without a magnifier.
There is no troubleshooting section.
I could go on..
It’s good thing I have all you experts, I wouldn’t even Be into this without you so THANKS!
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You have to look at the 8V Norge for a photo of them removing the pulley.
(https://i.ibb.co/ZLb5nxZ/069-CBADE-E4-F0-49-D0-A1-E5-E3-B35-FDE0328.jpg)
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(https://i.ibb.co/ZzHYD7x/94012-A3-A-70-F7-47-D5-B502-8296-E05-E3926.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZzHYD7x)
I thought this may help…
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I’ve had mine off 2 or three times, it never offers any resistance to a puller.
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So what happened to the Norge project? Parting it out?
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I’m having the heads evaluated.. the expert says I may not need new valves just an overhaul so waiting for him to get to them. It’s called Cylinder Head service, that’s all he does. The shop was piled high with Subaru and other engine heads.
Not parting it out yet.
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:thumb:
Glad to know as well. I noticed your other threads were deleted and
I was wondering what happened.
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I’m having the heads evaluated.. the expert says I may not need new valves just an overhaul so waiting for him to get to them. It’s called Cylinder Head service, that’s all he does. The shop was piled high with Subaru and other engine heads.
Not parting it out yet.
Overhaul like valve guides? Didn’t the previous owner have that work done on those heads? Hopefully this will solve the problem.
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Thanks for the update Foto, since your last post I check the forum multiple times daily to continue my vicarious journey through your process. In the words of a mutation of the Typical Guzzi owner, Red Green “Remember I’m pullin for ya— we’re all in this together.”
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Overhaul like valve guides? Didn’t the previous owner have that work done on those heads? Hopefully this will solve the problem.
what he said was a re facing of the seats might do it, the valves didn’t look too bent (before he took apart) it was not explained very well to me. This guys been doing heads for about 30 years so I’ll give him a chance before buying new exhaust valves from Italy. So I’m in line but don’t know how soon he will get to it. I told him I have all winter to get back on the road.
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I can’t see if you’ve removed the pulley yet, but you’ll notice it has two threaded holes in it.
You can make a puller very easily by getting a piece of 2” x 1/2” steel bored to take two bolts that wind into these holes and a 1/2” bolt threaded through the middle that bears on the end of the shaft.
You’ll have it off in 2 minutes.