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Nice work!!!If you need to pull the rear main bearing, I would suggest the correct tool ( I tried a proven method using set screws and bolts and broke a section of the flange off. Maybe more experience would have helped with this method, my bearing was stuck). Kinda expensive to buy the tool for a one time use, maybe someone near you could rent it or loan it, or maybe a shop rent one or just have them pull the bearing and pay the few bucks. The bearing is not cheap, $140-350 depending on size and who has one.Good luck!!!Tom
I just went ahead and ordered a puller from MGCycle. For $40 its not worth the hassle or worry of trying something else.
Not sure if this has already been mentioned, but while you're in there, here are the things you'll want to check:https://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_engine_out__check_these_things.htmlAlso, read Charlie's recommendations for what sealants to use on the second post in this thread:https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=83176.10Best of luck!Shaun
Ok another dumb question. So I see a hardened pin on MGCycle to assist removing the alternator. What’s the best procedure? Should I get that pin and insert it and then do as directed on that’s site? If says to insert the bolt again and tighten some, then tap the alternator with a soft mallet, etc.
I don't recommend using that pin, seen too many get stuck. Use one of these instead:https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/boalt-rotor642tool.htmUnless the rotor is really stuck, it'll pop off while you tighten the tool. If not, tighten, then tap the end of the tool with a hammer.
Ordered!!And... while I have you, lol... where can I get the tools to remove the other end? Ring gear and clutch are off, but I see other tools used for the next steps in the manual. I should also get the clamp that keeps it from turning, I assume... just used a wooden shim when taking off the ring gear bolts.Thanks again!!
I don't use any "special" tools to remove or install the flywheel. Thread two M8 bolts into two ring gear bolt holes and slip a prybar in between them. Works for installation too. When installing the ring gear, I just use a small prybar to engage the teeth and rest the shaft of the prybar on one of the engine studs.
Sorry.. I was at the wrong end in the manual... meant his on the front:
Just a little different. The cam gear (or sprocket) is held on with hex nut (27 mm socket), but the crank gear (or sprocket) is retained with a "ring nut" with four notches. You'll need a tool like this for the ring nut:https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=80&products_id=840For disassembly, a "rattle gun" (air or electric impact wrench) works well. The ring nut has a locking washer behind it with one tang bent into the notch, that will need to be drifted out of the notch before removal. For reassembly, I lock the flywheel from turning, to tighten those nuts. If you have a gear driven cam, you'll need a small three-legged puller to remove the oil pump drive gear.
If you have a gear driven cam, you'll need a small three-legged puller to remove the oil pump drive gear.
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