Czakky’s T3

[Tom H]

For the hone, I wouldn't.

For the head gasket I would replace it. Many, many moons ago, I was told that if you pull a head, always replace the head gasket. That is what I do.

For the base gasket, and it's leaking, I would replace it. BUT....If this was a loop, I would also change out all the O rings and make sure that they are in the right places. I "think" you engine uses the same set of O rings??

Tom

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

I've had some Guzzi engines that were "serial leakers" - fresh gasket, properly torqued, etc. and still a leak. So, those get a light coating of Permatex 300 on the gasket surfaces, fresh gaskets and new (Viton) o-rings.

[czakky82]

Light coat of hylomar (that’s what I have) and she’s back together. Tomorrow I’ll retorque go for a short ride cool her down and retorque. After a dozen or so heat cycles I will torque both heads. If if leaks, there might be an almost sorted T3 for sale  .

[czakky82]

Well that wasn’t it.... I see nothing from the breather setup (loop style) I replaced the distributor gasket just now. There might’ve been a tear in the old one. Fingers crossed.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Well that wasn’t it.... I see nothing from the breather setup (loop style) I replaced the distributor gasket just now. There might’ve been a tear in the old one. Fingers crossed.

Did you install the "Loop style" breather box? Did it have a intact/working "flapper" disc? Is so, did you remove the original ball type breather valve before you installed the Loop breather box? If you have both the flapper and ball valves in place, the crankcase could be building up pressure which could cause a leak.

[czakky82]

I never knew the loop style breather box had a flapper... I bought mine brand new from MG Cycle. I will say that there is a good positive pressure out of the exit tube of the breather. FWIW.

Will check that breather box, thanks!

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

I never knew the loop style breather box had a flapper... I bought mine brand new from MG Cycle. I will say that there is a good positive pressure out of the exit tube of the breather. FWIW.

Will check that breather box, thanks!

Yep. If you look up in the large tube of the breather box you should see a metal disc. You want one or the other - ball or flapper - but not both.

[czakky82]

Makes sense. I know I’ve got the ball valve at the block.

[czakky82]

So I have a flapper in the breather box and the check valve ball thingy coming out of the case. I will eliminate the check/ball valve.
Thanks for the heads up, I would’ve never known that.

I of course have another question.
I took apart my non locking gas cap to clean it up on the inside. I didn’t pay attention to how deep the little screw is, thinking I knew how it worked. Now it’s pretty hard to close and leak when full.
Anybody have recommendations on how deep the screw goes?

[Kiwi_Roy]

Alright, stumped again...
After my heavy duty refresh this winter and my first couple rides she ran great, not perfect but acceptable. Then somehow after getting my linked brake issue solved she’s running like crap. Like just bogs

Did you renew the condenser/s, I made the same mistake, bike ran ok for a couple of days then started to miss so badly I was lucky to get her home, would idle ok but any throttle at all would cause it to miss badly. It turned out the condenser I bought from a California source was a cheap knock off.

[czakky82]

She’s running good, condensers replaced.

Leaking a little fuel out of the gas cap... see above.

[czakky82]

Looks like I’ve got a stripped drain plug on my rear drive .

Can I heli-coil this without stripping the box?

How bad is it to strip a rear drive? I’m afraid of shimming...

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

I just did a level plug on an 850 Le Mans rear drive yesterday. I'd recommend stripping it down.

The hardest part might be getting the cover/flange loose from the case. If you reassemble it the same as you find it (thin paper gasket on each side of the shim), then shimming won't be effected.

You really need to be quite precise when drilling and tapping the hole - it needs to be as close to perfectly perpendicular to the machined sealing washer surface as possible. Otherwise, it could leak.

To prevent it from happening again, you might consider using a "dowty" or "Stat-O-Seal" type washer (metal washer with rubber center). These require much less torque to seal than aluminum, copper or fiber washers.   

[Tom H]

May I suggest a slightly longer bolt.

At least on my loops, the drain and fill level bolt is rather short compared to the depth of the threaded hole. I have used a 5mm,ish longer bolt and it held just fine. Just make sure that the longer bolt WILL NOT hit the gears.

This may not be a permanent fix, but it will get you by until you need to pull the box for a seal job or the like and then fix the threads.

Good luck,
Tom

[czakky82]

Awesome, good info.

Dowty washers on the way. Any idea what the thread pitch is?

Edit: I found it

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

May I suggest a slightly longer bolt.

At least on my loops, the drain and fill level bolt is rather short compared to the depth of the threaded hole. I have used a 5mm,ish longer bolt and it held just fine. Just make sure that the longer bolt WILL NOT hit the gears.

This may not be a permanent fix, but it will get you by until you need to pull the box for a seal job or the like and then fix the threads.

Good luck,
Tom

The T3 era rear drive casting is made thinner at the drain and level plugs, so at best there's 2 threads left once the hole is stripped. Might be enough to hold with a "dowty" washers, but maybe not.

Awesome, good info.

Dowty washers on the way. Any idea what the thread pitch is?

Edit: I found it

M10-1.5

[Tom H]

The T3 era rear drive casting is made thinner at the drain and level plugs, so at best there's 2 threads left once the hole is stripped. Might be enough to hold with a "dowty" washers, but maybe not.

M10-1.5

Thanks Charlie, I didn't know the case was thinner. On my loops, the fix has worked on the rear drive. On the trans, it worked on the level hole, but not for the drain hole.

BTW: I don't ham fist these bolts tight. The issues are on used parts that someone else ham fisted the bolts in.

Tom

[czakky82]

Thanks Charlie, I didn't know the case was thinner. On my loops, the fix has worked on the rear drive. On the trans, it worked on the level hole, but not for the drain hole.

BTW: I don't ham fist these bolts tight. The issues are on used parts that someone else ham fisted the bolts in.

Tom

Precisely my issue.

[Chuck in Indiana]

Installing a helicoil or some such will generate more chips than you expect. I wouldn't chance doing it without stripping it down. Many people are afraid of transmissions, but it's just nuts and bolts. Look at Petes and Johns tutorials, and you'll wonder why you were scared.
"You feeling lucky, punk?"

[czakky82]

Thanks for the vote of confidence Chuck. I’m going to try one more thing and I’ll report back.

[czakky82]

Still waiting on parts for my rear drive.

In the meantime I’m looking for headlight parts. Either nice US headlight rings or Euro bucket. I posted in the swap meet.

Cheers!

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Still waiting on parts for my rear drive.

In the meantime I’m looking for headlight parts. Either nice US headlight rings or Euro bucket. I posted in the swap meet.

Cheers!

I have a very nice US headlight rim with all the adjuster bits. Responded in the Swap Meet thread also.

[czakky82]

Loving this bike more and more, but I found one thing a bit disconcerting. I only get like 35mpg... I’ve got stock VHB 30s w/stock pilot jets, needles, needle jets, slides and I went up to 145 mains, due to my Bub exhaust and pod filters with the stock velocity stacks. I ride it fairly hard I just figured I could do a bit better than my V11 Lemans... I tried leaning and richening the needle clip but it runs best in the middle where it’s at. It does run good though.

[czakky82]

So I’ve put about 3k miles on this bike so far and installed LED warning lights this winter, so I’ve never ridden without them. I’ve also been reading that LED lights in the GEN position might be a bad move. I never read why though. The bikes been charging fine once running (13.9v).

Am I living dangerously?

I started reading about the light because my GEN light has been staying on a little longer after startup, but continues to charge well once underway...

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

So I’ve put about 3k miles on this bike so far and installed LED warning lights this winter, so I’ve never ridden without them. I’ve also been reading that LED lights in the GEN position might be a bad move. I never read why though. The bikes been charging fine once running (13.9v).

Am I living dangerously?

I started reading about the light because my GEN light has been staying on a little longer after startup, but continues to charge well once underway...

If it's charging, then no worries. On my Convert, I installed a "bootstrap harness" from Greg Bender that makes sure the Bosch system will charge even if the bulb is blown out.

[czakky82]

Awesome. Thanks Charlie!

Just to verify my charging system I took the stator off for a quick inspection and found one brush spring uncoiled providing no tension to the front brush. It charges a little sooner in the rev range now it seems. 

[Muzz]

That wouldn't help things.

Have found sometimes on automotive generators that carbon dust can sometimes glue the brush in the holder enough so that any out of roundness in the comm will allow the brush to "bounce" and lose contact.

[czakky82]

Ive really been bonding with this old girl lately and am still looking for some parts. I have an ad posted in the “Swap Meet”. I’m sure if you’re not actively selling stuff you might not look there, but if you have old Tonti stuff I might be interested.

Thanks

[czakky82]

So one of my winter issues to sort is the metal crossover fuel line.
I’m wondering though. Why not just run a fuel line from each petcock to the carb?

I’m sure this has been asked before...

[Frenchfrog]

Best way is to get two double pipe banjos for the carbs...link the two carbs with one outlet, the other goes to the tap.Your way will work but when you hit reserve ....