Czakky’s T3

[Muzz]

Keep your old clutch plate center.  Remove center boss, weld on large piece of steel, = cheap tool to hold the main shaft on the gearbox when you need to do the bearing.

[czakky82]

Clutch and flywheel back on.
All bearings and seals in transmission that needed replacement are done.

Stupid memory is failing me. When I replace the back cover does the speedo drive ball bearing ride against the stake nut on the output shaft? Is there supposed to be a washer there?

[czakky82]

Looks like the speedo drive ball I received was the wrong size. I got it figured out with the correct size ball.

Next problem. These brakes drag real bad. It’s actually hard to push this bike around unless I loosen a caliper. It’s definitely the linked brakes. This winter I went through everything, rebuilt all calipers, fresh brake lines. The PO installed a new MC about three years ago. Still drags the same way it always did front and rear wheel.

Is there an adjustment on the MC or proportioning valve? Could my calipers not being center mess me up?

[wirespokes]

I'm guessing the problem is with the left side? Was the foot activated master the one that was replaced?

It's possible the linkage has no slack and is actually energizing the calipers. Maybe the return spring is missing and the weight of the brake lever is applying pressure to the cylinder?

[czakky82]

Yes the linked brake side. That’s a really good point about the linkage.

[wirespokes]

It doesn't take much. Looking down into the master through the reservoir, there are two holes - one large, one small. The piston closes up the small one first and that's the bleed-back port. The piston, at rest, is very close to that port, so it doesn't take much movement to block it. When it's blocked, the brakes don't release. Sometimes some crud can block that port with the same result. But in your case, my guess is something with the linkage.

[czakky82]

I should have time to look at it today. I’ll post my findings.

[czakky82]

I backed off the bolt that the lever rests on when not in use. It seemed to have worked on the front caliper but not the rear. One other thing I forgot about, the rear caliper has a missing bleeder nipple. Both pistons seem to move freely (closed at least).

Should I just pony up and buy the new caliper or is there a test I can do on the propotioning valve?

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

I backed off the bolt that the lever rests on when not in use. It seemed to have worked on the front caliper but not the rear. One other thing I forgot about, the rear caliper has a missing bleeder nipple. Both pistons seem to move freely (closed at least).

Should I just pony up and buy the new caliper or is there a test I can do on the propotioning valve?

On the T3 that is just a junction block, not a proportioning valve.

[wirespokes]

Well done getting the front to work.

The big question on the rear is if the piston moves all the way out in its travel. Does the lever arm on the master have some slack or is it tight up against the piston?

No need to replace the master. It's one of two things: 1. the piston isn't going all the way to the end of its travel because it's prevented for some reason. 2. The bleed back hole is plugged, in which case, unplug it.

Those are about the only two things that could be going on with it. I guess it could have been built with the wrong seals - that's a possibility. Never had that happen, or even heard of it, but I guess it's possible. So first off, make sure nothing is pushing on the piston when it's supposed to be at rest, and check on the bleed-back hole.

[czakky82]

Ok I’m an idiot. After actuating the master a million times I took off the cover on the caliper. Definitely not enough shim in there.... Always something simple.

Thanks for the help guys.

Now it’s the off idle stumble I’ve got to solve. I’m going to start with rechecking ignition timing...

[wirespokes]

Ok I’m an idiot. After actuating the master a million times I took off the cover on the caliper. Definitely not enough shim in there....

You lost me there. First off, there are no shims in the caliper. With the cover off you'll see the alignment pins, a spring clip, and the pads attached to their metal backing plates.

It sounds like the brakes aren't dragging anymore but I haven't a clue what happened...

[czakky82]

Sorry that wasn’t very well articulated.

So my “method” for aligning the caliper was to use the seam in comparison to the disc. After I popped the cover off it was obvious that one side (pad) was dragging on the disc.

Basically I think there was two problems. The original issue, Wirespokes led me to the right place by looking at the linkage.

[wirespokes]

Good! Got the linkage situation handled.

Just want to make sure the pad wasn't rubbing on the disc because the caliper piston wasn't retracting. You'll know soon enough once the brakes are applied and they drag again.

But if it was due to new pads taking up all the room with the pistons totally retracted, then I guess the caliper would need to be exactly placed. So the shim you're talking about positions the caliper on the mount - I get it.

[czakky82]

Alright, stumped again...
After my heavy duty refresh this winter and my first couple rides she ran great, not perfect but acceptable. Then somehow after getting my linked brake issue solved she’s running like crap. Like just bogs with any throttle input. Hot or cold it doesn’t make much difference. Once rolling up past 4K it seems to get better but still bad. If I give her some choke (enrichener) it would just die.

Could my valves have tightened up that much after the fresh gillardoni kit? It’s probably less than 100 mikes and maybe four heat cycles.

I’ve gone back through the carbs again.

Opening the fuel tank doesn’t change anything, I’ve got good flow through both petcocks.

It’s T3 with pods and Bub exhaust fresh points/condensers.

Here’s a pic of the plugs, both look the same.




pic hoster

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Could my valves have tightened up that much after the fresh gillardoni kit? It’s probably less than 100 mikes and maybe four heat cycles.

Have you retorqued the heads and adjusted the valves any since installing the Gilardoni kits? In my experience, you need to do that very often in the 1000 miles or so, until the gaskets finally finish compressing completely. I usually: assemble the top-end, torque the head nuts, but leave the rockers off. Next day, retorque, install rockers, set valve lash. Start engine and run 15-20 minutes, let cool completely back to ambient temp, retorque, adjust valves again. 5 heat/cool cycles - retorque again and adjust valves. 500 miles - ditto. 1000 miles ditto. Then it should be settled in.   

[wirespokes]

I was thinking water in the gas. If re-torquing and adjusting valves doesn't fix, pop the float bowls and look for water in the gas.

[czakky82]

Have you retorqued the heads and adjusted the valves any since installing the Gilardoni kits? In my experience, you need to do that very often in the 1000 miles or so, until the gaskets finally finish compressing completely. I usually: assemble the top-end, torque the head nuts, but leave the rockers off. Next day, retorque, install rockers, set valve lash. Start engine and run 15-20 minutes, let cool completely back to ambient temp, retorque, adjust valves again. 5 heat/cool cycles - retorque again and adjust valves. 500 miles - ditto. 1000 miles ditto. Then it should be settled in.

Ok I did do the overnight re-torque, but that’s it. I read somewhere to just re torque after 500 miles and you should be good.
I will do that tomorrow.

[czakky82]

I was thinking water in the gas. If re-torquing and adjusting valves doesn't fix, pop the float bowls and look for water in the gas.

Yeah I went through the carbs completely... again. Will report back after heads re torqued.
Although I have to say there is some valve noise. Not as loud as my V11 Sport, but some...

[wirespokes]

I know you went through the carbs, but this has nothing to do with that. Condensation builds up on the gas tank inside, then drops to the bottom of the tank since water is heavier than gas.

When it flows into the carb, it sits at the bottom of the float bowl and blocks the jets. It doesn't evaporate out since gas is covering it. The only way out is through the jets or by dumping it.

When pulling the float bowl, keep a container under it to catch what comes out so you can check if it's got water or not. You know what to look for? It's like a bubble rolling under the gas.

[czakky82]

It sounds totally feasible. I did dump gas from the bowls in a clear jar, didn’t see anything. I will try again though.

[wirespokes]

You've gotta look really close. Tilt the jar a little so the water collects at the low spot. Wiggle the jar a little and you'll be able to see the 'bubble' jiggling.

[czakky82]

Re-torqued the heads this evening. I started by checking valve clearance. Right side was a bit tight. I originally set it to 6 and 8 thou and found the right at 2 and 4 the left maybe 6 and 4. I was actually hoping to find them a bit tighter.
The heads were pretty loose though. When I backed the nuts off to re-torque they loosened up at around 15ft/lbs and went way past there original position, so I guess it was needed.
Reset valves to 6 and 8 and buttoned her up. Unfortunately I couldn’t test anything out since we got a couple inches of snow today .

I will check those float bowls tomorrow hopefully.

Sorry if this project is hogging the discussion board lately....

[Tom H]

Don't be sorry. Keep up the work and let us know what fixes it!

Good luck!
Tom

[Tom]

By chance, are the carbs still set for the stock cylinders.  Sounds the idle is set too low.... 

[czakky82]

@Wirespokes, unfortunately the gas was water free after multiple attempts.

@TomH, 

@Tom, the idle has been adjusted multiple times. It actually idles pretty well.

While I was there I checked compression: 130L psi 148R. Ice cold throttle wide open. That’s not great with fresh cylinders and pistons....
I also checked spark it was decent with a solid orange/blue.

I also have an issue where the gen doesn’t start charging until like 3k+ rpm. On the other hand my battery is rock solid.

Could this be my culprit?

[Tom]

Does it start charging at 3K or slowly climbs to it? 

[czakky82]

Gen light is on until 3k then it stays off after it get revved. It will however get over 14v when revved up to 4K but then no charging below 3k I’m pretty sure.

[Tom]

That shouldn't be the problem.  The bike would run off the battery till you get it up to 3K.

[czakky82]

I went back through the carbs again today (among many other things). I found that my floats are labeled 8g where the service manual calls for a 14g float. Anyway I found somewhere the 8g floats are to be set at 18mm as opposed to 23mm or some where there abouts. Try as I might but there is no way for me to set these floats that high. I found them at 23mm (I’m forgetting exactly what the height is) which is what they were supposed to be set at stock.

Does anybody have an opinion on this?