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General Discussion / Stelvio Brake Discs
« Last post by Borsig on Today at 10:07:06 AM »
My L/H disc has become wobbly on the central web, the manual says 0.15 mm side play maximum, when I checked I had over 1.0 mm, more worryingly it has rotational movement on the web.  Rattly discs are not uncommon on a lot of bikes but my R/H disc is like new, mileage is 27,000 and the L/H disc should have been replaced ages ago.  I tightened up the rivets woith a hammer and a socket over the retaining washer which helped a lot but its getting worse again.  On looking for replacements, genuine discs seem to be out of stock, EBC replacements are £185.00 each and I would need both but a general internet search brought up a Chinese company theat makes discs for a range of bikes including Guzzis.  These are £140.00 a pair, much more reasonable, they have stainless rotors with alloy webs and look very nice, they also have 10 rivets rather than 6 which also seems a good idea.  Has anyone come across these, if so are they good or bad or any other comments?  These are sold via Ebay but a search on Ebay did not find them, I had to use Google which gave me a link to the Ebay page and that took me to their shop, the company is WUXI THAI RACING TRADE CO LTD.  They list discs for a vast number of bikes, a lot of Italian one and seemingly most of thre bigger Japanese ones.
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General Discussion / Re: ABS
« Last post by Borsig on Today at 09:53:18 AM »
I got a message to say that FabioQ has asked whether I sorted the brake problem on my Stelvio, well yes and no.  I took it to my Guzzi dealer who ran through he brakes with Navigator and cycled the ABS several times, prior to the visit I did some research, studied the Guzzi ABS diagram and came to my conclusion.  The ABS cycled as expected but always returned to a spongy brake so I discussed my findings with them and they agreed as there was no real other option.

I hope you are ready for this as its a bit technical.  Basically there are 2 solenoid valves in the ABS, the first is normally open and the second closed, after this is a spring loaded buffer chamber then the pump.  The fluid is normally stopped by the closed valve when ABS is not activated, when it is the valve opens, the fluid to the pump is pressurised and escapes into the buffer chamber, ABS shuts the first valve and pumps a small amount from the buffer back into the brake line, causing a long pull in on the lever followed by it being pushed back out.  This happens rapidly as long as the lever is held and the wheel slips.  In my case the second valve is not closing so fluid passes into the part that should only be in use when ABS is activated, the buffer chamber fills causing the long pull on the lever then the brake works as normal.

The cure is a new ABS unit.  As the rear ABS is a second circuit and unaffected and I don't like ABS anyway, I opted to have hoses made and bypassed the ABS for the front only.  The brake now works better than it ever has, I do not have warped rotors or air in the system, I was let down by technology.  If this happens to you and you choose to bypass it, be glad that the bike does not have sensors in the ABS unit and is totally unaware that I have bypassed it, the light comes on as normal and goes out after the wheels have turned, so no issues at all, and the rear still has ABS.

Unfortunately I seized the engine not long after fixing the brakes, the oil pump gear in theses engines is plastic on a metal center, mine came loose on the center, twisted and had its teeth stripped causing a big end seizure.  I did not notice the warning on the display as its a red triangle with a picture of an oil can that is just not visible on a bright morning, the first I knew was the engine feeling rough.  This cost me a used crankshaft from Germany, a seal and a few gaskets, and a new gear of course.  I did it myself and its been running fine ever since.  As a precaution I will be replacing this gear if I still own the bike in 2026, 5 years is probably as long as I want to trust a plastic gear running in hot oil all the time.  I spent the next 2 months of riding watching the display like a hawk, a glance every 10 seconds or so, then I gave myself a good talking to and now treaty it normally and don't look for warnings.  If anything nasty happens I can fix it.

I hope this helps anyone with strange brakes, I seem to have become a bit of an expert on the Guzzi system, message me if you want to know anything.
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General Discussion / Re: Tank bag for V85TT?
« Last post by Moparnut72 on Today at 09:33:46 AM »
I have a SW Mototech Micro bag on my V100. Easy on, easy off and very secure. It is superb for carrying smaller things like phone, glasses, ear plugs etc. The instructions for setting it and the tank ring up weren't the greatest but all was good in the end. Excellent quality.
kk
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General Discussion / Re: Loopframe sidestand / foorboard question
« Last post by fotoguzzi on Today at 09:24:32 AM »
PM sent
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Jackals or Stones would work for you in that price range.with foot pegs and factory scooped seats they are set up for short riders and you get a big block for trips.
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...Breva 750 is the best all-arounder. 

I'd put the Nevada in second place. 


Thanks for this! Nevada in second place due to ergos? Or is it geared/cammed differently?
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All super helpful replies, folks! Thank you.

I should have been clearer about my price range. In reality, it's $3500 or less. Not seeing V7s in that range, except for the odd 2010. (Having owned a 2005 Multistrada, I'd rather avoid the plastic tank!)

So I'm limited to older stuff like this '04 Breva in PA for $2500, which has been on FBM for 40 weeks!
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/182528568139173/
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Dirk,

I think it's the weight difference.  The early V7s were much lighter than the successive models.

You very well may have a point—I mentioned that I found the III more nimble than my II, but that was noticed in the parking lot, not on winding country roads. At 40+ mph, I could see the III possibly wanting to keep straight due to the momentum and distribution of the extra weight, despite the reduced trail.
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Dirk,

I think it's the weight difference.  The early V7s were much lighter than the successive models.

That 35-40 lbs is something you can feel on bikes like that.  I liked the handling and feel of the 2010 V7 Classic better than later ones which I've owned and ridden.
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Update on registering.  Pay Gayle Gutherie using Zelle.  Use 206-218-8982.  Rally pin for first 250 registrations.  This per the latest MGNOC May newsletter.   :boozing:
$100 before June 1, 2024.  $125.00 after June1, 2024.

I don't have Zelle...but will send a check before June 1st.  :boozing: :thumb: :cool: :wink: :smiley:



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