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Hey SydSounds like you’ve decided but my 2c as a long term owner, I fitted a T drum rear to my 1978 Le Mans in 1980, still my main transport, have 3 other Guzzis on the road, one only still with linked brakes, I don’t drive cars unless forced.Twin discs unlinked with 08 calipers are as much brakes as I could use, master cylinder, discs and pads easily changed for as good as mine.Twin leader rear drum can be set up fierce or gentle with different linings, adjustment etc. My favourite rear brake, bar none.
Re your original question, only toolboxes and drum brake affect weight, negligible difference between two , where did you get 25kg difference ?Speaking of toolboxes, a massive advantage imho, steel panels on T3 achieve nothing. Useful storage space is important to me.
Comfort for two, original seats identical to all intents, aftermarket or specialist seat recovers nearly infinite, footrest position identical so absolutely no differenceTo achieve V1000 engine, all you need is 950 kit, a wise man would overhaul the lot at same time (this kit solves chrome issue too)UJ difference is relevant if you do big miles, doesn’t sound as if that’s the case, if you do need to buy another “small” one it will probably outlive you.There are many improvements that can be made to either but none I can think of model specific apart from the aboveBuy the T
These guys wont be the ones left with a useless lump of an engine by not paying heed to advice that is based in long term Guzzi experience. I know you are new to the forum, but when someone with the experience of Frenchfrog gives you advice, it pays to listen.
My chrome l bores were juiced at around 45k miles...the bike had never been laid up for long, ran perfectly but I had to check and there it was, clear to see.I fitted gillardoni big bores without a rebalence and it was fine if a bit more vibey.I would certainly rebalance the crank now simply because it makes for a smoother engine...at the time I was strapped for cash and needed the bike back on the road as it was my daily rider.
From FrenchfrogAbout the same experience with my T-3 except I made it to about 70K. I did not rebalance either and notice a bit more vibration. If I had to do it over again I would have also had the crank balanced. Going on 40K after the engine redo and running great.GliderJohn
I tend to overthink too Sy but that is a good thing. Rebalance concerns the crank but for the best job it seems that you should send the flywheel too.I've even heard of some adding on the alternator rotor too. The thing that matters is piston weight and apparently some big bore kits keep the weights the same , so rebalencing is not needed then. You just need good scales and check the comparative weights of all the components.The Gudgeon pins also vary in weight !I didn't notice any power difference...if anything that engine was sweetest running as an 850 with the original airbox...BTW I also changed over the springs in the distributor to LM ones and retimed the bike to that spec at one point and it was sharper.The T 3 set up was likely due to emissions that the T was was having problems passing ( why that didn't effect the LM is anyone's guess ).
No idea about the emissions...it's just a theory that Dave Richardson had if my memory is right.my kits are gillardonis too...good stuff but you do need to have the base of the barrel turned down by about 1/2 mm as the cases on T and T 3 are slightly smaller.HMB sell the kit with this already done https://hmb-guzzi.de/Cylinder-Kit-88mm-850-T-T3-T4I'm sure they can advise about the need for a re balence too.
Go for that one...no messing with balance and frankly the bore increase is hardly noticeable.Strange that the 83mm is only available from them.When mine was operated on I had no choice really...88mm or get new 83 mm pistons and work on the damaged chrome ones. That was not the usual path back then and would have cost more I think.
Ok, is it an expensive job to check the chrome on the existing engine?
.Strange that the 83mm is only available from them.When mine was operated on I had no choice really.
They both have chrome bores. I won't upgrade if I don't need to.
You can use a cheap boroscope to inspect the bores through the spark plug holes, but unless there are chunks of chrome missing it won't tell you much. The most common chrome bore failure is microscopic bits of chrome that pop off the walls, which can be difficult to see unless under magnification in good lighting. These bits flowing with the oil form a very destructive grinding medium that eventually destroys everything it touches. You could drop the oil and inspect the pan of oil in direct sunlight. A high degree of tiny shiny stuff swirling in the oil can tell you something. A certain amount of microscopic glinting will be normal, but chrome contamination is pretty obvious once you have seen it.
If you haven’t seen this thread & ongoing address of the original chrome plated cylinders of the comparably-equipped V7 Sport engine, you should read it and decide accordingly. At this point in time, this is not an issue of if but when failure will occur. The chrome plated cylinders have to be replaced along with anything else impacted by the situation. Doing less than a complete job will not solve the problem. I never knew so learned the hard way. https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=115513.0There is no short cut if you want to ride one of these bikes.
So apparently replacing cylinders and pistons is a must that will costa around 1k… but if I have to prevent further damages I must consider it.
replacing the cylinders is the LEAST amount of parts & works that may be required. At this point, if the engine is running with original chrome cylinders, it will probably need more than just new cylinders, pistons & rings.I only replaced my cylinders, pistons & rings, simply because my bike’s engine was frozen from being parked for a decade. I didn’t see damage below the rings and was not advised (almost 30 yrs ago) about the additional damage that may be present inside the engine. The bike ran great. But within a relatively short length of time, I had to pull and rebuild the entire engine- basically redoing everything expect the cylinders, rings and pistons- because of specific damage from chrome particulate that came from the original cylinder walls.What you spend or don’t spend is up to you. You can get the bike and ride it until it blows- your bike, your rules. maybe you’ll get lucky for a while, but probably not in the long run. The chrome cylinders issue on these early bikes is not something that can be ignored without consequences. That’s why I linked the other thread. Many here hate to see a new Guzzi fan be given inadequate or inaccurate information. If we didn’t want you to have a good experience, we wouldn’t try to help you make well-informed decisions.
Hi Clifford, thank you, I have just read that thread. What other damage can occur from chrome? What shall I suggest my mechanic to do and check?
BTW I also changed over the springs in the distributor to LM ones and retimed the bike to that spec at one point and it was sharper.The T 3 set up was likely due to emissions that the T was was having problems passing ( why that didn't effect the LM is anyone's guess ).
Alright, the rear drum is good but of course I need to drive thinking I have a 50 years old rear brake style.
Drop a telescopic magnit through plug hole, every chance cylinders have been changed a long time ago, to check if they’re big bore 950’s it’s easiest to drop sump and measure bore
If you follow the link that Syd posted, at the bottom it says the 83mm kit isn't expected to be available until at least November. But the 88mm kit IS available, and same price.
you mentioned loving a 'V1000' above. By this I assume you mean the G 5, one of the two models that featured the V1000 graphic prominently, the other being the automatic Convert. Have you considered trying to find one instead? Stock with iron bores and 30 mm Dell'Orto carbs. Seems it meets your requirements and omits the chrome concern. Of course it leaves you with everything else a 45 yr old bike may require.
I've been wondering the same thing. I don't know if this one is still available, but I talked to this guy before I found the T3 California (with Gilardoni 949 kit installed) I ended up with. He seemed really nice and if it (the green bike in the photos) is still available, I think the price would be flexible.https://www.subito.it/moto-e-scooter/varie-moto-guzzi-da-collezione-privata-pisa-432251563.htmBut this raises a question: The G5s we're made in 1980 correct (if not earlier)? Yet everybody seems to say they have cast iron liners. Buta T3 of the same year had chrome? When did Guzzi switch to nigusil/nikasil?
T4 does sound like it splits the difference. Not sure what country Syd is in...