Wildguzzi.com
General Category => Bike Builds, Rebuilds And Restorations Only => Topic started by: buzzer on January 18, 2022, 04:21:28 AM
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Hi Guys, new here and new to Guzzi! I have recently bought an 1100 California which I am going to use as a basis for a custom build... not sure what just yet... this will be a slow start as I am just finishing off a Ducati build. For now I have stripped it down to the bare bike and its now at the back of the garage.
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/12/guzzi-2.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/12/guzzi-1.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/12/guzzi-3-copy.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/12/51749727820_9e2b354488_o-copy.jpg)
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the only jobs I have done so far is to make some bell mouths for the FCR carbs I will be using! here they are and a short video of how I made them
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brYe3Hnpd1g
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/01/carbs-copy.jpg)
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Nice! How are you figuring out the jetting? I have an '85 1000 and FCR's would be a a nice upgrade.
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Those velocity stacks are gorgeous. Very nice work.
What do you have going on with your motor that requires 41mm flatsides? I'm running a set on my SE, but it runs 94mm hi comp pistons and a RR3 cam with major head work.
(https://i.ibb.co/v1x9cJd/se-frame-5.jpg) (https://ibb.co/v1x9cJd)
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Those velocity stacks are gorgeous. Very nice work.
What do you have going on with your motor that requires 41mm flatsides? I'm running a set on my SE, but it runs 94mm hi comp pistons and a RR3 cam with major head work.
(https://i.ibb.co/v1x9cJd/se-frame-5.jpg) (https://ibb.co/v1x9cJd)
At the moment the motor is stock, so they are probably overkill...we will see later on when its apart what I will do with it.
Time to make some silencers(lose word!) I bought these cheap stainless ones off eBay as the hard part in making silencers is rolling the cone… and they are expensive to bye. I cut the end off, removed the inner resonator tune and made some cones for the end. this makes them re-packable for the future. I can also fit the baffle for MOT time.
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/01/silencer-7-copy.jpg)
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Up on the hoist for the first time… I have temporarily used a build stand that I have used for Ducati’s, but I will have to make a specific one as this one will impede making the exhaust fit on the bike. First job has been to make some inlet manifolds to fit the carbs… I wanted them angled upwards and inwards, and that took some working out to get the compound angle right! it ended up as 68.5 degrees. As the carb diameter is larger than the head inlet, I needed to use a tapered tube… To do this I turned up a tapered mandrel, and after annealing the alloy tube, I pressed it in with the vice, which expanded the tube by the required few mm. I then turned a grove to accept the lip inside the carb mounting blocks.
the next bit was actually quite difficult… I needed to make the hole on the flange a nice fit on the tube, but at an angle. I deliberately cut the 10mm plate quite large so I could get it mounted on the milling machine at the exact angle. I then bored the hole with an indexable boring head. If that milling machine looks old, it is! I did some work on it a few months ago and found a date… 1929!
Next job was to TIG weld the flanges on, drill the holes, and finally cut to shape.
here is a short video of the manifolds being made...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-2EfrVdAiKo (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-2EfrVdAiKo)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/02/51872449199_d662666f29_o.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/02/51874027176_e31851d70b_o.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/02/51876878666_b979a843e8_o.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/02/51877520120_b736838caf_o.jpg)
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a little side track as I had a new facing cutter for my milling machine and wanted to try it! I took the top yoke off and removed the section where the ignition switch fits… and milled it flat. I then contoured the edge to blend it in. Those power files are a great piece of kit, something i bought thinking I may not use it much, but I use it all the time! Then into the blaster to clean it up, it can wait a while for polishing….
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/02/top-yoke-moto-guzzi.jpg)
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One thing I hated about the bike was the side stand… Just how agricultural is that bracket! I know its a great functional design, but its SO ugly! so out come the angle grinder and it is no more! In the loft (or as my wife calls it the spares department!!) i had a side stand off a 1994 Honda CBR 600… it bolted straight on! Just need to adjust the angle a little when the ride height has been set. a job for much later on...
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/02/side-stand.jpg)
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Are you going to weld around the outside of the manifold tube to the face plate?
Ciao
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Are you going to weld around the outside of the manifold tube to the face plate?
Ciao
As its welded on the back, I made sure prepared the joint well and got some good penetration. I decided that three good runs of weld was sufficient on the outside
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As its welded on the back, I made sure prepared the joint well and got some good penetration. I decided that three good runs of weld was sufficient on the outside
I agree but it looks horrible. Sometimes even in engineering you need to go the extra yard so it looks right and "professional"
Ciao
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I agree but it looks horrible. Sometimes even in engineering you need to go the extra yard so it looks right and "professional"
Ciao
In your obvious over inflated opinion...
Ciao
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In your obvious over inflated opinion...
Ciao
Just calling it how I see it. I'm used to looking at quality engineering. Nothing wrong with yours it just needs a tweak.
Ciao
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Hi Buzzer,
Nice build, and good progress so far. It would be nice if the pictures were bigger so we can see all the details? Maybe individually instead of 4in1 style?
Also if you might feel inclined to grind off the small tabs with the thread in the top yoke, (m6 mounting holes for ?) be very careful about welding the holes up. I did and it warped like crazy. No way it would fit the forks again. Lucky for me it was a spare one I had bought. I think if I had to make a second try I would turn up some slugs that is a tight fit in the fork tube bores and then weld it up a little at the time.
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Hi Buzzer,
Nice build, and good progress so far. It would be nice if the pictures were bigger so we can see all the details? Maybe individually instead of 4in1 style?
Also if you might feel inclined to grind off the small tabs with the thread in the top yoke, (m6 mounting holes for ?) be very careful about welding the holes up. I did and it warped like crazy. No way it would fit the forks again. Lucky for me it was a spare one I had bought. I think if I had to make a second try I would turn up some slugs that is a tight fit in the fork tube bores and then weld it up a little at the time.
Thanks! the reason for the smaller pictures is that i link back to my build blog... If I use to large a file size picture on there the load time suffers. I may try linking them to my Flickr page for full size images.
Its a good point on the top yoke... I did cast a glance to those holes, and thought I would leave them until finishing time... this is a dry build at the moment, when it is all running I will strip and rebuild. its at that point I do any fettling. before I had an AC TIG i had good success in filling such holes with aluminium bolts, cutting them off just above the surface and then peening them, and file flat. A great source of alloy bolts are BMW engines, they seem to use them as "one use" bolts on some components.
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yesterdays job was to mock up the exhaust... I had ordered some 2" mandrel bends and straight pipe as I wanted that chunky look, and for the pipe to fit straight into the silencer with no reducer. From a performance aspect, the large headers are probably not I deal... but I wont miss a few BHP! I also wanted that angled swept back look (old School!!) The bends are 135, 45 and 30 degrees. It should all polish nicely as its stainless steel. This bike will have more forward mounted foot rests, hence I could kick up the silencers earlier...
I find making exhaust systems quite therapeutic, although sometimes I could do with a third hand. My wife used to help, but since I burned the back of her hand with the hot end of the filler rod, all help has been withdrawn :sad:
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/02/exhaust-4.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/02/exhaust-3.jpg)
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I agree with your comment on the therapeutic nature of exhaust building. I find that there is a lot of scope for expression and the exhaust is a large part of the character of the finished product.
I can see where you’re going style wise, it will look pretty good when done... :thumb:
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Next on the list is the new foot controls… I sat on the bike and decided where I wanted the foot pegs to be. This bike wont have rear-sets, I want to to be comfortable to ride! I then measured how long from the peg the brake and gear lever needed to be and set about designing some controls. It would have been easier to have had them water jet cut, but that’s a 3 hour round trip for me, and usually quite a wait, so I decided to mill them out instead. What has made a BIG difference to me is the acquisition of a band saw… Its great for cutting stuff like this out! I was so lucky to acquire it… my mate was throwing it out!
I made a couple of spigots to mount them on the frame which I will weld on. I have used a couple of Oilite bushes on the holes rather than run the alloy directly on the steel. the first spigot I made I realised I had counter bored it a bit too far and it would have been too weak… a case of measure twice cut once! I then bent them in the vice to get the correct crank angle to clear the exhaust.
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/02/footrests-2.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/02/footrests-1.jpg)
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Enjoying your build! I have a Cal II I'm doing a similar job on. I installed the same front end on mine. Your machining skills are impressive!
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Nice work :thumb:
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The finished results, apart from a good polish... As I am going to use a Ducati rear calliper, I have also used a Ducati Master cylinder, and also used the same leverage ratio for the pedal... here is a short video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Uw3wcT7-40 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Uw3wcT7-40)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/02/footrests-4.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/02/footrests-5.jpg)
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As I am taking off the linked brakes I needed to use a different rear caliper. I toyed around with making the rear caliper floating and using a torque arm… but in the end decided to use a neater, smaller bracket instead. It also meant that I could mount the speed sensor for the speedo as I am using a combined speedo / tacho.
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/03/rear-caliper-copy.jpg)
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The tank I am using is off a V7… It was cheap to buy because it had a couple of big dents, which I have managed to get out. To do this I had to cut a couple of holes in the bottom to give access with a 20mm bar with a dome on the end, which I then used to knock most of the dent out, just needing a skim of filler. I then welded some plates on the holes and leak tested them with dye penetrant.
I use this a lot, its great for checking for holes and cracks, they show up immediately. fortunately all was good in this case. I prefer doing it this way to filling it with petrol as if you do have a leak its a pain to clean it out again. I have taken to using the dye penetrant on frames before I have them blasted… its surprising how many have cracks! especially Ducati!
A while ago my mate welded an RGV 250 engine mounting on the alloy frame. When he had welded it, he used some dye penetrant around the joints on the frame to check for cracks… There were quite a few! he welded them up and re-checked. Here is a gearbox I recently welded that still had a leak after someone had already welded it, you could not see it with the naked eye, but its easily visible with the dye…
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/03/tank-weld.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/03/aaa.jpg)
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What are you using for a speedometer? I like the sensor placement.
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What are you using for a speedometer? I like the sensor placement.
I will be using one of the speedo, tacho combined. they are available on Ebay for about £25. they work well and are configurable and have lights for indicators, ignition, main beam etc so it makes for a clean install.
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/08/51359638684_d869d74bf1_o-copy.jpg)
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With the new master cylinder mounted I looked at a way of mounting a reservoir. I could have used one of the small plastic ones, but instead decided to make one. I am pleased with the way it came out! here is a short video of how I made it! Last update for a while... I have to go on holiday apparently!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0-kGpvQDjI
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/03/resevoir-123.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/03/resevoir-12.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/03/resevoir-1.jpg)
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Excellent machining! What did you use for a bearing/bushing on the brake lever?
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Excellent machining! What did you use for a bearing/bushing on the brake lever?
I used some split Oilite bushes I have had for years... they were an off size but I could make the stub and hole in the lever to suit :thumb:
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Back from holiday where I unfortunaly got a dose of the virus! Not too bad though, I have had worse colds… But for a few day I have kept out the garage, and did some computer time instead and constructed the wiring diagram… I like to keep it simple, and wire from scratch, so many builds are spoiled by patching up the old loom. I am using an ignitech for the ECU, and its interesting that the the unit uses the cam sensor for one cylinder, and the crank sensor for the other. I like that idea!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/03/guzzi-1-wireing-diagram.jpg)
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I have agonised over the rear light / number plate arrangement…
No matter how I plan it, it just does not look right with the number plate on the back, So I am going for a side mounted plate. that leaves the rear light to consider… the rear of the seat is angled (more later) so I needed an angled plinth to mount the light I am using on… here it is, bar a good polish.
A new addition to the workshop is a bandsaw... How did I manage without one all these years! I modified the top and bottom guides so they have bearing supports and it works an absolute treat!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/03/51962496149_f90c22ef50_o.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/03/51962211521_cf7579fed6_o.jpg)
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One thing I always like on a build is a light throttle… in these days of EFI its easy to forget just how heavy some carb throttles were, always a balance of lightness Vs a throttle spring strong enough to prevent sticking, As I am using flat slides on this build I really wanted to use a pull / pull throttle set up, which would either mean a pair of splitters, or a dual throttle. that way I can retain the light springs. Try as I might I couldn’t find a dual pull / pull one so I have ended up making one! If anyone knows of a company that makes them… DONT TELL ME! here is the story in pictures…
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/03/throttle-18.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/03/throttle-2.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/03/throttle-1.jpg)
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the wheels are back from the vapour blasters… they have come out FAR better than I expected, and I quite like the finish, so I will be leaving them as they are. just a coat of ACF – 50 should keep them looking good. the spokes are stainless and have also come up well. First time in MANY years I have put my own tyres on! they are tubeless so went on very easily. just got to get them balanced.
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/04/wheels-copy.jpg)
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seat next… I needed to bend the front to clear the tank bolt… So I made a former to press it into shape. I also made a tool so I could press some dimples where the rivinuts go, to raise the seat a little so the seat doesn’t sit directly on the frame rails…
Things don’t always go to plan… I decided to mount the rear light on the frame, and cover with a piece of alloy… which I did, but then realised that on full bump the tyre would hit the plate! I had designed the rear to cater for full bump, but promptly forgot! I realised I needed to mount the light on the seat base, but I hate wires showing… so I decided to make a conduit out of copper tube so the wires can be hidden under the seat cushion.
The seat is off to the trimmers today. I have not used this guy before… The girl I used for years to trim my seats left the company she worked for… the last guy I used was OK, but no where near her standard. So lets see what this new guy is like… Oh, and here she is in the daylight for the first time in a while…
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/04/seat-base-3.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/04/seat-4.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/04/seat-5.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/04/side-profile-copy.jpg)
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the wheels are back from the vapour blasters… they have come out FAR better than I expected, and I quite like the finish, so I will be leaving them as they are. just a coat of ACF – 50 should keep them looking good. the spokes are stainless and have also come up well. First time in MANY years I have put my own tyres on! they are tubeless so went on very easily. just got to get them balanced.
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/04/wheels-copy.jpg)
Are they nice and true ?
Also, why not balance them yourself ? https://youtu.be/MbezuZa_hNY
It’s fun...!
BTW..
I did get the front better than that, but took the video to demonstrate the accuracy that can be achieved.
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Are they nice and true ?
Also, why not balance them yourself ? https://youtu.be/MbezuZa_hNY
It’s fun...!
BTW..
I did get the front better than that, but took the video to demonstrate the accuracy that can be achieved.
yes, they were almost perfect! that's a great idea! :thumb: my mate has a wheel building jig I can use... I will do that thanks! :thumb: :thumb:
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Are they nice and true ?
Also, why not balance them yourself ? https://youtu.be/MbezuZa_hNY
It’s fun...!
BTW..
I did get the front better than that, but took the video to demonstrate the accuracy that can be achieved.
AME's balanced King Air aircraft wheels that way where I used to work, and they went over 100mph. I made my own compact version by bolting a couple of bearings to a small piece of angle iron (x2) and just clamp them to a couple of jack-stands. I've been doing this for years!
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no matter how I tried I couldn’t get the number plate to look right on the rear of the bike… so on this build its going on the side, which kind of fits with the look I want to achieve…
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/04/number-plate-5.jpg)
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Brilliant work you're doing here Buzzer, wish I had your engineering skills to transform my EV into something better. Following with interest and based quite close to you in South Derbyshire.
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Nice, looks like you won't be needing a side stand then. :thumb:
Ciao
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Its been a while... I tend to have the summer off from garage projects, holidays, days out, bike rides take over! However I had a few spare days and thought I would make use of the warm days and paint the tank. It was badly damaged when I bought it, so I cut some holes in the underside and knocked the dents out. it takes an age to get it to shape, in fact as the metal had stretched, so I cut a 1mm slot in it, planished it, which closed the gap, and then welded the slot up! its nicely to shape, just the decals to put on now
Another little job was to redo the speedo… I want to keep this build as clean as I can and wanted a smaller speedo. I decided to use one of the cheap GPS modules which is just 55mm diameter. I made a new housing for it, and will finish the bracket off when I start the assembly. it been in the car for a week on test!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/08/tank-12.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/08/tank-1-1.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/08/speedo-1.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/08/speedo-2.jpg)
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All finished... I always have my heart in my mouth on that last coat of lacquer over the decals!
I know a lot of people struggle with paintwork, its not that hard if you follow a process, so I have written a guide on my blog if anyone is interested...
https://jtccc.wordpress.com/projects-2/paint-spraying-at-home/
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/08/tank-34-copy.jpg)
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Why is there a decal on the back of the tank where you can’t see it ?
Won’t the seat rub it off ?
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Hi Buzzer,
Very nice build and thanks for the write up regarding paint. Always good with some extra tips and tricks.
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You have a lot of excellent machine tool skills, very impressive!
Bike is looking great.
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thanks for the comments guys :thumb:
Out in the sunshine for the first time in a while… I am now happy with the look, and it now all needs to come apart for the frame to be tided up and painted silver (matches my other bikes!) I will be doing a mechanical rebuild at the same time.
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/08/orange-12-copy.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/08/orange-8-copy.jpg)
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In your obvious over inflated opinion...
Ciao
Great work. Wish I had your skills and tools in my garage! I tend to agree. If you are going to all the trouble to make new inlet manifolds, you might as well make them looked finished. You won't regret the extra half hour of or so work. But if you don't..... It will just look unfinished.
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One thing I hated about the bike was the side stand… Just how agricultural is that bracket! I know its a great functional design, but its SO ugly! so out come the angle grinder and it is no more! In the loft (or as my wife calls it the spares department!!) i had a side stand off a 1994 Honda CBR 600… it bolted straight on! Just need to adjust the angle a little when the ride height has been set. a job for much later on...
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/02/side-stand.jpg)
Looks great. If you go the route of clip ons, Check this out.
(https://i.ibb.co/7rgzn35/20160630-180303.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7rgzn35)
I used chrome "Washers," actually off the end of bar end mirrors, to hide the holes in the triple clamp on my Bellagio cafe racer. Only took about 20 minutes to strip and polish. Looks a million bucks.
(https://i.ibb.co/Fm6zzq1/P-20180413-161354.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Fm6zzq1)
Can't wait to see more of yours.
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Here is the speedo and warning lights finished, I am pleased with how this has come out, i wanted this to be as clean as I could… as with all electronic components I like to rubber mount them… so I have used some small grommets and spacers. The GPS speedo has a nice little feature which tells you which direction you are traveling in!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/08/52299060934_fd338fee24_o-copy.jpg)
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Autumn arrives… Bike rides become less frequent, and the holiday and days out season slows down, so its back in the garage! the bike is now in the stage where all the fabrication is done and it all needs taking apart and cleaning and painting. Engine removal was quite easy with the removable frame rails and it was all soon apart and the engine and gearbox on the bench. I finished off all the welding on the frame and removed all the unused lugs to get that clean look, and sent it off to the powder coaters.
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/09/frame-and-engine-removal.jpg)
I will be doing a full engine gearbox and drive unit rebuild, mainly to vapour blast the cases. This of course means making a few special tools! First off was an extra long 32mm socket. I cut down a standard one and extended it with some thick wall tube.
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/09/gerabox-tool-3.jpg)
next was a tool to undo the 27mm nut on the gearbox output shaft. you need to hold the shaft as well as turn the but so it needs to accommodate this. I used one of the spare Ducati wheel nut spanners I had laser cut years ago and bored it to shape on my new milling machine. Picture of that to follow!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/09/gerabox-tool-1.jpg)
next up took some thought… I needed to hold the shaft while I undid the nut. It would have been Ideal to use an old UJ but I didn’t have one… But what I did have was an old drive shaft. Out of this I made a stepped broach in the the lathe and then hardened it. With this I was able to broach a set of splines in a block of 10mm alloy, cut to fit a large spanner. It worked a treat!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/09/broach.jpg)
finally, I made a tool to remove the castellated nut on the input shaft from an old socket, and a tool to hold the clutch hub from an old clutch plate. I think that may be it as far as special tools go!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/09/gerabox-tool-2.jpg)
I have been debating replacing my milling machine for a long time… but I have had it for almost 45 years and its like an old friend! over the years it done a lot of work, but its a 1929 machine and has its limitations! When my wife asked me what I wanted for my Birthday it was an easy answer! The old machine has gone to a good home where I know it will be looked after and used…
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/09/milling-machine.jpg)
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I much prefer the look of the older round barrel engines... so out came the angle grinder!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-FLqOUEy0VA
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/09/barrels.jpg)
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Time to overhall the hydraulics… just waiting for some new bolts to assemble the callipers. everything was in surprisingly good condition, just a strip and rebuild needed. Then onto the job I hate most… Polishing! I have a 2 HP 3000 RPM motor I use for this. Its a long, filthy and somewhat dangerous job. I try to do it all in one day as you get filthy, and its the sort of dirt that won’t wash off with hand soap, so I have to use washing up liquid!
I have also rebuilt the forks and put in new seals and dust covers, and some fresh oil. they are very simple forks, no where near the sophistication of the Ducati ones I normally do!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/10/guzzi-hydralic.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/10/guzzi-polishing.jpg)
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Excellent progress, again I admire your machine skills, I am slowly getting better at mine but no where at your level. :thumb:
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Excellent progress, again I admire your machine skills, I am slowly getting better at mine but no where at your level. :thumb:
you never stop learning...its kind of why I document my builds... I have all this knowledge in my head and no one to pass it on to, our kids are just not interested in this sort of thing... I lost my best mate of 55 years recently and he passed on so much of his welding knowledge to me, and I have no way of passing it on, its a shame, but hey ho... If people read my posts and take one thing away then that's good.
I have read on a few forums that over the miles the preload on the pinion bearings gets loose, and sure enough it spun Just a little too free. So I removed a thin shim and re-torqued it up after inspecting the bearings which were like new. I couldn’t use a torque wrench so I used a balance on a long spanner and calculated the pull needed for the correct torque.
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/10/pinion.jpg)
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I am amazed at how little wear there is on the engine and gearbox components. there is no disenable wear on the crank or bores, pretty good for 30k miles! I cleaned out the sludge trap in the crank but it was clean, glad I did it though as the bung was far too lose for comfort! it has a dab of retaining compound on it now. the only wear I have found so far is a roller bearing in the rear drive, and as you can see there is pitting on the inner race. this will be replaced.
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/10/engine-parts-copy.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/10/crank-bung-copy.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/10/diff-build-2.jpg)
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well the frame is back from the powder coaters, along with the plating of all the smaller parts. Its always a dilemma what colour to go on the plated parts… I can have them silver, but the corrosion protection long term is much less than the yellow passivate, so yellow it is!
the frame has come out superb as usual, but the swinging arm is terrible. I knew it was pitted, but he said when he blasted it, big flakes of rust came off, and although he coated it, he knew it would not be acceptable to me. He did say he could improve it, but I decided to try and find one that’s less corroded. We will see.
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/10/frame-copy.jpg)
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While everything is on hold while I wait for the cases to come back ( blaster has - and is really poorly...) I agreed to help a friend of a friend who was struggling with two broken studs in a cylinder head, so I though I would share my knowledge on removing them...
removing broken studs is always a problem, especially where someone has had a go first! in this case they had drilled off centre and then broken an easy out in the bottom! in 50 years of doing this stuff I have NEVER seen an easy out remove a broken stud in alloy… My technique for broken stud removal is to first clean the head of the stud with a burr in a Dremel to get it nice and clean. Then use a half nut the same size of the stud, but drill the threads out so again its nice and clean.
Place the nut central on the stud and start off with the TIG on low amps and just puddle the weld on top of the stud.. This permeates the heat down the stud… Build up the weld inside the nut until its flush. I have the electrode sticking out a bit more than normal to get close to the stud top. You can use MIG, but TIG is FAR better... Once its cooled a little, give it a tap with a small hammer for a bit of shock. then try working it back and forth… its its too tight, or squeals as you try to turn… it stop. Then if its possible drill a hole into the alloy from the side and JUST into the stud. over a couple of hours feed some Plus Gas (wonderful stuff!) in the hole and work the nut back and forth… I have had great success removing studs this way in alloy.
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/10/52434767440_57315a9ed0_o-copy.jpg)
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Looks like the guy that does my blasting is still poorly, so I have turned to working on the next project until I get all the Guzzi cases back... something I don't normally do as I like to do one project a time...
There are a few things I can get on without getting seriously into it, one of which was to make some tapered inlet manifolds. This is another 1000DS Ducati build and I am exploring the Idea of using a small supercharger off a VW 1.4 TSFI... we will see once I get properly into it, but for now here is how I made the manifolds.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BAaLRtB32lg
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All the parts are back from the blasters, so its cleaning time… nothing scraps an engine like leaving glass media in there so its important to get it all out. I have a process I use for this. First I wash it all off in petrol… paying attention to all nooks and crannies, holes and oilways with a long thin bottle brush. then I jet wash it off, and blow it all off, including all holes. (you need goggles for this!) then its into a stainless steel tray and another wash off with petrol, and then I use carb cleaner with a long spout into all the holes and oil ways… if there is ANY single bit of media in the tray, its back to jet washing and blowing off again. Its easy to see any media in the stainless tray. Here is the gearbox in the stages of being built up.
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/10/gearbox-1-copy.jpg)
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Very Impressed with work thus far. Looks great!
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Onto building the engine… of note is the tool to compress the clutch, which is actually the centre splines off the gearbox, and a threaded bar into the crankshaft. this makes the plates perfectly aligned and makes fitting the gearbox easy.
next the cylinder heads… it took three attempts on these to get the bead out of one oilway! note the new tin of grinding paste, the old one has run out of the fine end, but it was 50 years old, I can remember my Dad buying it me as a teenager! Good to see the company is still going and using the same tin! Just to be sure I checked the bores for wear… there is none at all! Got to love Nikasil bores!
here is the engine and gearbox all back together… I decided to add some accurate timing marks on the flywheel for each cylinder so I can use a strobe and see what’s happening in reality. used my new digital DTI gauge… not sure I like it… watching that needle go round is far more satisfying!
and finally its all back together and ready to go into the frame
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/10/engine-1-copy.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/10/cylinder-heads-copy.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/10/timing-marks-copy.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/10/guzzi-finished-engine-2-copy.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/10/guzzi-finished-engine-copy.jpg)
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That is just beautiful…
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Here is the finished final drive with a new bearing and seals.
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/10/final-drive-copy.jpg)
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The engine is now back in the frame, a nice and easy job with the removeable bottom frame rails…
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/in-frame-copy.jpg)
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Beautiful shine.
Are you keeping it all silver?
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Beautiful shine.
Are you keeping it all silver?
the tank is orange, like all my builds... :grin:
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/12/51773167012_dc8cdd23cb_o-copy.jpg)
I didn't want to use the frame as a breather as it can rot them out, and rust partials can drop down so I am told... so I decided to make a new breather the vent the crank case and also the heads. Here is is... will it work? Who knows, we will see!!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/breather-copy.jpg)
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Two jobs today... first was to make a paddock stand. I hate the universal ones as they are very difficult to get a bike on one on your own..., and often not that secure. this one positively locks onto the wheel spindle, and when its on the lift I can clamp it to the top so its nice and secure.
The second was to make some bushes out of bronze to take the play put of the clutch lever as the hole had worn oval. I drilled it out and made some over size top hat bushes. Finally, here it is on its wheels!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NoiBIyf7MYY
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/clutch-lever-copy.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/side-on-wheels-3.jpg)
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I pondered for a long time on the throttle arrangement for this bike… I wanted to keep the pull to open, pull to close for a couple of reasons… First, its safer… manufactures didn’t go to this arrangement for no reason as bikes evolved. Second, it means you can have much lighter return springs, which in turn males the throttle much lighter, particularly if you are going for a quick action. . A light fast action action throttle feels like you have 20 BHP more!
I couldn’t find a 4 cable throttle anywhere, so I ended up making one from scratch…
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/throttle-1-copy.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/throttle-2-copy.jpg)
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I needed to make some brackets out of alloy tube, but of you squash the ends in the vice it looks crap… so I made this little die that profiles the ends round which also make them stronger.
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/stays.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/stays-1.jpg)
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I needed to make some brackets out of alloy tube, but of you squash the ends in the vice it looks crap… so I made this little die that profiles the ends round which also make them stronger.
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/stays.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/stays-1.jpg)
It would be a privilege be apprenticed to you.
You are the true embodiment of someone who actually “ builds” a bike… :bow: :thumb:
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I needed to make some brackets out of alloy tube, but of you squash the ends in the vice it looks crap… so I made this little die that profiles the ends round which also make them stronger.
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/stays.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/stays-1.jpg)
That die press is brilliant! I was wondering how to get that shape on some tube brackets I need to replace on a bike. Thanks for posting this idea, your work is top notch!
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I would like to see a sub thread set up entitled…
“Roper says, Canuck says, Buzzer says..”
Roper for mechanical advice
Canuck for restoration advice
Buzzer for specialist machining
The deal would be, no arguments or immediate removal of post. Questions yes, but if you don’t value the advice don’t open the thread.
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I would like to see a sub thread set up entitled…
“Roper says, Canuck says, Buzzer says..”
Roper for mechanical advice
Canuck for restoration advice
Buzzer for specialist machining
The deal would be, no arguments or immediate removal of post. Questions yes, but if you don’t value the advice don’t open the thread.
I am always happy to help :grin: :grin:
I made a speedo housing earlier in the build, but I was not happy with the result, so I tried again... this one is better...
turning the dome took some doing! I have rubber mounted it as I always feel electronics need it…
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vVhAJ0GDwlE
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/speedo-4.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/speedo-6.jpg)
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I wanted to add some custom detail onto the bike, in particular on the valve covers... So I tried the technique of etching alloy... have to say it worked rather well! Oh, and although those indicators are small, they are amazingly bright!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TJBqAuzCvzI
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/rear-end.jpg)
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Ok…
Where have you been hiding all this time, that is absolutely brilliant… :bow: :thumb:
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Ok…
Where have you been hiding all this time, that is absolutely brilliant… :bow: :thumb:
Mainly on the Ducati forums.... :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
Onto for me what is the most enjoyable part of a build... the wiring. I have a process for this I stick to. First I draw out the wiring diagram in Microsoft Visio, and colour code the wires. Then I order the wire in, which is quite cheap and any connectors I need. So often the standard of the electrics is what make a bike trouble free in the future. I then build the loom actually on the bike, circuit by circuit, wire by wire, which I hold temporarily in place with some Velcro cable ties. When its all in place I use that braided sheathing and close the ends with heat shrink tubing. it make a neat job. Rather than connect the main battery leads up, I use a fly lead with a 10 amp fuse just in case I make a mistake. I crimp, and if needed solder every joint. I have rubber mounted the coils and put them on an alloy heat sink. I also like to make my own HT leads out of solid copper lead, so I can get them to fit perfectly...
I have also used up the last of the Tygon fuel tube I had in stock... Its 8mm ID and I am unable to source any more without buying a large quantity, which is really annoying.
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/wire-2.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/wire-1.jpg)
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I built a Rob North BSA A65 years ago and it worked out nicely.
(https://i.ibb.co/bbf0wHg/1-E9-DCEA8-F8-A9-471-D-A295-FFDA4-CF62-EE7.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bbf0wHg)
(https://i.ibb.co/9vMGcq7/AF855-D85-262-A-4-B61-8-D2-E-7-F030-F691-E6-C.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9vMGcq7)
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But where I hit the wall a bit was the wiring.
When you say you laid out the circuits one by one, I can readily see that logic, but when I did that, I found that I was duplicating a lot of positive wires.
How did you determine whether to run a dedicated positive to perform a given function, or just tap into one that was already there ?
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I built a Rob North BSA A65 years ago and it worked out nicely.
(https://i.ibb.co/bbf0wHg/1-E9-DCEA8-F8-A9-471-D-A295-FFDA4-CF62-EE7.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bbf0wHg)
(https://i.ibb.co/9vMGcq7/AF855-D85-262-A-4-B61-8-D2-E-7-F030-F691-E6-C.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9vMGcq7)
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But where I hit the wall a bit was the wiring.
When you say you laid out the circuits one by one, I can readily see that logic, but when I did that, I found that I was duplicating a lot of positive wires.
How did you determine whether to run a dedicated positive to perform a given function, or just tap into one that was already there ?
nice build... :thumb:
that's why I like those fuse boxes in the picture... one positive wire to it, and 6 out to the various components. also one earth to it, and 6 out. it keeps it simple :thumb:
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nice build... :thumb:
that's why I like those fuse boxes in the picture... one positive wire to it, and 6 out to the various components. also one earth to it, and 6 out. it keeps it simple :thumb:
Oh ok.
That would have simplified things, I did not know of them.
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Here is the finished wiring… and the final diagram of which I am always happy to share a full size version. Its one item that is always nice to pass onto the new owner when I eventually sell on... Imagine fault finding without it! I like to use the braided sheathing rather than the hard PVC stuff of old. I see that many cars and bikes now use it. Its a bit fiddly but if you touch the end on the soldering iron after you cut it, it stops it fraying. Another nice advantage is if you need to pull one or two wires out, you can do by just parting the strands.
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/wire-32.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/guzzi-1-wireing-diagram-for-website.jpg)
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the footrests/and levers are now finished… I pondered how to do the brake light switch and then came upon this neat hydraulic one which bolts onto the union…
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/footrest-662.jpg)
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here it is finished... just waiting on a small part to get it running, which is very frustrating!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/52531906410_001ea97dd6_o-copy-1.jpg)
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here it is finished... just waiting on a small part to get it running, which is very frustrating!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/52531906410_001ea97dd6_o-copy-1.jpg)
Absolutely gorgeous. :drool:
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I cannot remember seeing any better ground up project, that was actually “ built”.
I love the absence of plastic.
Behold…!
Moto Guzzi Metallo…. :bow: :thumb:
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thanks for the complements guys!
So its start-up time… I had a good spark, but I wasn’t sure if it was on the right cylinder as I hadn’t made a note on the coils… so it was a 50% chance it would start… It did! It quickly settled to a nice tick over, but I had to shut it down as I am missing the “0” rings off the sensors and they leaked oil. I have been waiting a week for them, bloody Royal Mail strikes!
With any fresh engine build I have a routine I stick to that has served me well over the years… first thing I do is remove the oil switch and pump oil into the engine. I use a plastic pump up bottle for this. This primes all the oilways, fills the filter, fills the oil pump, and oozes out of all the bearings. I prefer this to engine building paste, which I am not a fan of… I do use a smear of it on the cams and followers though…
The other thing I do is screw in a pressure gauge. I was pleased to see that it immediately shot up, which is always a relief. This has saved me a couple of times in the past… Once when the pressure relief valve in a new oil pump was stuck, and the gauge went off the scale… the other time was my fault when I put an oil pickup pipe joint on wrong, and the joint itself covered the pipe hole… started it up and initial pressure then nothing… that gauge is a lifesaver!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/12/startup-copy.jpg)
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Beautiful head turner. The exposed frame gives a sense of power.
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well how annoying is that :angry: :angry: I noticed the section of one pipe was going blue... checked it and its magnetic! looks like the supplier mixed in a piece of Mild Steel in with the stainless! Oh well, new piece is on its way
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/12/blue-pipe.jpg)
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well how annoying is that :angry: :angry: I noticed the section of one pipe was going blue... checked it and its magnetic! looks like the supplier mixed in a piece of Mild Steel in with the stainless! Oh well, new piece is on its way
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/12/blue-pipe.jpg)
Son of a mongoose….!!! :cry:
You’ve the patience of a saint, I hope old mate picks up the cost there. Your bike is so distinctively unique, it will always be yours even if you sell it.
I wish like hell it didn’t have to get that great big yellow licence plate hung off the arse, especially assymetrically.
There must be a way….
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I would like to see a sub thread set up entitled…
“Roper says, Canuck says, Buzzer says..”
Roper for mechanical advice
Canuck for restoration advice
Buzzer for specialist machining
The deal would be, no arguments or immediate removal of post. Questions yes, but if you don’t value the advice don’t open the thread.
I’ll add one to that.
Kiwi Roy says…(electrons and subduing their sometimes errant behaviour..)
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well this build comes almost to an end, I am sure there will be some snagging to do, but that can be done in Spring when I can ride it! I will post a video of it running as soon as we have a nice day. Here is is with the last couple of builds I have kept as I liked how these ride!
Its time to start the next Build… I have another Multistrada at the back of the garage which I will wheel out soon and make a start on that… this has some nice parts on it and should make a great bike, not sure on the style of this one yet, I guess it will evolve over the coming months.. Have to say I have really enjoyed the Guzzi build, a refreshing change to Ducati’s as the next one will be Ducati number 10 build!
So apart from a video at some point its goodbye from me and I hope you have all enjoyed my ramblings. Unless of course any of you are interested in the Ducati build, I could always continue it onto this thread.
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/12/three-bikes-copy.jpg)
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I could watch you build a garage door and still be interested.
Your craftsmanship is worth witnessing in any application, please don’t go running off. I just hope you are not put off if someone tries to copy something you’ve done.
I like how your colour choice defines the creation as a “Buzzer build”. I would christen that lovely bike the “Moto Guzzi Metallo”….. :bow: :thumb:
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here it is finished... just waiting on a small part to get it running, which is very frustrating!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/11/52531906410_001ea97dd6_o-copy-1.jpg)
Looks fantastic! The color seems reminiscent of Laverda orange but even richer and deeper!
Do you have a specific paint spec/color code you could share?
The silver frame looks great! The orange and silver combination has me rethinking some potential future projects!
Thanks for sharing. Looking at the machine tools some people have always makes me (a hacksaw and file guy) realize he was born at the wrong time and place!!
:thumb:
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Just saw the finished build... spectacular! Love your minimalist style, looking forward to some riding videos.
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Looks fantastic! The color seems reminiscent of Laverda orange but even richer and deeper!
Do you have a specific paint spec/color code you could share?
The silver frame looks great! The orange and silver combination has me rethinking some potential future projects!
Thanks for sharing. Looking at the machine tools some people have always makes me (a hacksaw and file guy) realize he was born at the wrong time and place!!
:thumb:
Thanks! the colour is RAL 2008, and is Laverda Orange... way back in the 80's I used to do paintwork for Slaters here in the UK. I have painted MANY jota tanks and side panels / seat humps. Back then I had three shades of Orange to chose from, as many Jotas were different shades. I remember going in the show room one day and he had 5 Jotas in a line, and an SFC... they were all different shades! It amuses me no end on the Laverda forums the argument over what it the "true" laverda orange!
As an aside, a bit of a story... I went to take some paintwork back one day and Richard Slater was moaning about the fact he had quite a few bikes off the road waiting for rearset mounting plates... if a bike fell over it would often break the plate... I asked him if I could have a pair of broken plates, and took them home, welded them up (gas in those days!) and sprayed them with spraying filler, and smoothed them off. The reason for the filler was alloy shrinks by 1/77th when you cast it. At the time I had a small furnace in the back garden and some casting equipment... so I used the repaired plates as patterns to cast up some new ones! I machined them up, and took him a batch in, he was over the moon! I left with some broken wheels to melt down with instructions to make another batch... Over the next 12 months I made loads as I was cheaper!
on the back of the patterns I had scratched "TL" which are my initials... so whenever I see a Laverda with rearsets I always have a look to see if they are mine. I have only ever found a few sets... this is quite a treasured photo, we didn't have the luxury of digital in those days!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/laverda-footrests.jpg)
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Thanks! the colour is RAL 2008, and is Laverda Orange... way back in the 80's I used to do paintwork for Slaters here in the UK. I have painted MANY jota tanks and side panels / seat humps. Back then I had three shades of Orange to chose from, as many Jotas were different shades. I remember going in the show room one day and he had 5 Jotas in a line, and an SFC... they were all different shades! It amuses me no end on the Laverda forums the argument over what it the "true" laverda orange!
Thanks for the information. Orange has been my favorite color since childhood.
The Laverda orange paint story sounds "typically Italian!" Reminds me of searching for "British Racing Green" paint!
You would probably greatly enjoy the AF1 forum on the Aprilia RXV/SXV bikes. They have some stories to tell about consistency of Italian manufacturing.
The above picture of the MG reminds me of two quotes:
"The greatest artist is the simplifier!" - Vincent Van Gogh
"Everything should be as simple as possible but no simpler!" - Albert Einstein
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I use to follow your build’s at Ducati forums, admiring your great skills making your orange bikes, This Guzzi is no exception, just stunning :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
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Thanks for the kind comments guys...
The front under the headlight didn’t look right, so I made a plate and etched a Guzzi badge on it, I am still amazed how well the etching works!
Here is the video of it running, followed by some photos that tell the story of its build… Its -5 this afternoon on the drive, so It wont be up the road for a while!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EfrFwwEUpfk
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/12/guzzi-badge.jpg)
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I thought I was in love before…
But now that she’s whispered into my ear, all I need is a wink….(That’s with an “i” not an “a”…) :wink:
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buzzer,
Your bike sounds so much better than my old Cali :drool: :thumb:
Thanks for the video
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Hi Buzzer,
Do you have the stickers made or print them yourself?
I am looking for that letter font with the fat diagonal line of the "Z".
I'd like to make a sticker applied over paint.
I'm amazed how well the eagle came out. Any tips on making that sticker?
Thanks,
P
Thanks for the kind comments guys...
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/12/guzzi-badge.jpg)
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Hi Buzzer,
Do you have the stickers made or print them yourself?
I am looking for that letter font with the fat diagonal line of the "Z".
I'd like to make a sticker applied over paint.
I'm amazed how well the eagle came out. Any tips on making that sticker?
Thanks,
P
I have a local lad that has a vinyl cutting printer... I just send him what I want cutting out, in a JPG file format and he seems to be able to cut anything! so if I send a Ducati logo, he cuts out what I want and I stick it on and peel off to make the mask. its really cheap as well!
well my Guzzi build has come to an end, and is now in the back of the workshop waiting for some good weather. So onto the next project which I bought 3 months ago... this will be Ducati number 10, but I want to do something a bit different this time. It came with a pile of tasty parts, some brand new... there are lightweight forged wheels, big front brakes, Ohlins suspension, which will go to making a quick and light bike.
I have ordered a load of stuff, but due to strikes and the time of year nothing will be here till the new year… so the first job on this build was to make the throttle of all things. I made similar for the Guzzi build and it worked well, so this is an enhanced version of that with a slightly smaller cable wheel as the Guzzi throttle is a little too quick… I refined my silver soldering technique after watching the repair shop, and I have to say it worked rather well!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/12/52573574618_0c88cd1366_o-copy.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/12/52587722923_7cb4de3077_o-copy.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/12/52586835707_d0083057ab_o-copy.jpg)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fa-uJj8be10
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As I wanted this to be different to the other builds, I tried several other tanks… I had an ST4 tank and a Monster tank that had too many holes to repair, so I cut these down… while I liked the ST tank, I couldn’t get the seat to tie in… I didn’t like the monster tank… So off to the bike breakers… he gave me the key to his storage unit... and said "say hi to the ghost!"
I walked around looking at the hundreds of tanks in there, discounting the plastic ones, of which there were many… the slope of the frame makes the choices limited... Nothing took my eye. Its a VERY old building though, and I have to say it spooked me somewhat being in there on my own, lots of creaking noises, and scuttling sounds which were probably rats... I didn't stay longer than I needed!
In the end I went back to the 999 tank I have used before. Another with some holes in the bottom where its rusted out.
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/01/52604526524_1f09c75a72_o-copy.jpg)
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While I love the look of a nice velocity stack they are not really practical for the road, hence while I make them for the photos I take, I like to use foam filters on the road. this of course means I need some suitable adaptors, which although you can buy them are REALLY expensive. these took a while to machine out of billet! I sometimes get asked where I get my material from for the lathe and miller. I am really lucky that there is a scrap yard locally that lets me hunt through the bins! They take scrap in from some of the aerospace companies so there are sometimes some nice bar ends in the skips. What is great about that is the bar ends are often etched with the material specification!
I don’t usually pay as I take my scrap in there and he writes the value in the back of his desk diary, and then as I take stuff, he takes the value off! he has done this for me for over 30 years! A few years ago I went in early in the year… he was no longer there as he had retired and I learned that his grandson had taken the company over. We chatted and I mentioned about the diary as I had a few pounds credit… The lad said he knew all about it and it was in the back of the book!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/01/bells1-copy.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/01/bells-2-copy.jpg)
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Time to start the fabrication of the back end. I decided to use some rose joints as I like the look they bring to a build. Experience has taught me to tack everything up first before welding fully! its going to be a very stubby back end, I have also used three 10mm LED as a stop and tail light. they are amazingly bright
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/01/rear-end-fab-7-copy.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/01/rear-end-fab-2-copy.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/01/rear-end-fab-3-copy.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/01/rear-end-fab-9-copy.jpg)
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Making the exhaust retaining flange out of 15mm alloy plate was quick and easy…
As an aside, that tin of marking blue is 50 years old, given to me by my Dad, along with one of my treasured possessions, a 0 – 1″ micrometre when I was 15 years old. Not much left in the tin now, but its still usable.
when I was a kid, I used some of that blue on the eye pieces of my brothers binoculars.. :evil: he still mentions it now!
The stainless steel collar however took an absolute age to make! I should have really used some stainless pipe, but its an odd size and I couldn’t get any that would fit, so I ended up machining it out of a solid piece of bar stock. I hate working with stainless… everything you do with it makes your life hard, just like the material!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/01/exhaust-1-copy.jpg)
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I tried for a while to make a seat out of alloy sheet, and failed. the shape is just to complicated! in the end I decided on an alloy and glass fibre approach. I lifted the tank slightly so the finished seat will have some clearance, and then covered it with duct tape, followed by some tin foil to act a a release. This actually worked quite well! Cutting the foam to shape took a while and is a dusty job, but with the fan blowing on me and out the door it wasn't too bad. The key to using resin is the mix ratio... I used 2.5% as it was a cold day, in the summer that would have gone off in 5 mins! I will send it to the trimmer to do his magic... this is one of the few jobs I send out.
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/01/seat.jpg)
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To get the tank low, and get rid of the large pump mounting hole I had to cut the bottom out of the tank. easy enough with one of those 1mm cutting disks which I seem to use a lot of these days! I needed to make the infill patch and contour this to fit the hole. to make this easier I profiled it to the right shape by cutting some wood and pressing it to shape in the vice, then a bit of planishing to get it to the final shape.
The aim is to get the gap as small as possible to facilitate a nice weld. I used some 1mm mild steel plate which matches the thickness of the tank, so TIG welding is no problem on a low amp setting. I used a couple of magnets to position it before adding a few tacks all round. At this point I ran out of Argon... The last refill I bought was £65.. now its £104!
The outlet is made, but I need the filter fitting on the bike first so I can position it to get the pipe runs neat. Once this is welded on I can leak test.
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/01/tank-copy.jpg)
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I picked up the headlight and fuel filter brackets today... What a fantastic process waterjet cutting is! They were profile cutting a 150mm thick block of alloy while I was there! The jury is out on the brackets at the moment, but I am struggling to think of a better design
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/01/52637413883_cd4466a09d_o-copy.jpg)
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When i bought the bike it had a QD system on it… while I liked the concept, it was too big and heavy so I sold it on and decided to make an underslung exhaust of my own design. I wanted smaller and much lighter. I started with a mock-up of builders foam to get the shape and angles, and then moddled this in 3D. I did do a basic model on my iPad, but then found I had to pay to output it to a file! really frustrating! so I got my mate to do it and then had all the individual parts laser cut.
The baffle plates have staggered holes, which should quieten it down somewhat, but if not, I have a backup plan! Who knows if this will kill any performance? if I lose a few BHP so be it… but you never know!
here is a 1 min video of the process
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RgssU93IbPM
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/01/silencer-2.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/01/silencer-3.jpg)
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Damn…!
Although there’ll be a varied response to the styling choices, that is to be expected when producing art.
No one can fail to acknowledge your brilliance in turning a mental image into metal.
Love your work.. :bow: :thumb:
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Damn…!
Although there’ll be a varied response to the styling choices, that is to be expected when producing art.
No one can fail to acknowledge your brilliance in turning a mental image into metal.
Love your work.. :bow: :thumb:
Thank you :grin:
Apart from a polish the exhaust is welded up and finished. I didn’t want to have distortion and burn through when attaching the baffles, so for these I used TIG braze which worked quite well.
The slip joints are held together with springs and to hold these I needed to make some spring hoops. These are actual quite difficult to make to get the bend just right and to a consistent shape. I made a little jig to make these.
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/01/silencer-4.jpg)
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here is everything to go to be powder coated. The swinging arm will be just blasted though as I will be polishing that. In some ways it was a shame to strip the wheels as they were perfect, but black, and I want silver. The powder coater insists they are stripped of the powder coat before I send them, as its so difficult for him to blast it off… in the past I have used industrial paint stripper but its expensive, and a terrible job to do. This time I took them to a local car wheel refurbishes and they put then in their stripping tank for a couple of hours.. they came out fantastic, the pain literally fell of! I left the disks on and they came out without any paint on as well. I will be taking my engine cases in next!
last post for a month while we go and get some sun!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/01/ready-for-coating-1.jpg)
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back from holiday, and the first job was a frame repair on a Triumph... I don't do work for other people these days, but one of my best mates asked me if I could repair this Triumph frame for him. How the hell do people think using rebar and welding like that is acceptable?
all done now though and once its powder coated it will be like new.
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/02/triumph-frame-repair.jpg)
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The job came out very well. Why is no one on this forum surprised???
Ralph
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Started the engine build… these are simple engines to build, bit like a Guzzi, just a bit lighter! just a couple of points to remember… There is one special bolt in the crankcase that has an oil feed hole in it. Its also much easier to pop the piston into the bore, and then put the pin in, the rings are very fragile (and expensive!) make sure you have some rag in holes though, those pin circlips have a life of their own! in one of the pictures you can see a plate which holds the flywheel… this is necessary as the alternator nut and crank nut are VERY tight and need torqueing to 190 NM.
I would like to thank the local council for the steel to make the engine stand. Leaving a large sign in the hedge at the side of the road for 2 years, I felt I had to re-cycle it 🙂
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/02/52704422357_2ec3888591_o.jpg)
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Very nice work! Don't let any of the negative comments bother you, I'm impressed! Keep us posted
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Waiting for a few engine parts so I switched onto the hydraulics. Not sure which front callipers to use yet, so I built both sets. Everything was in great condition so I didn’t change the seals as they were all good.
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/03/hydralics-copy.jpg)
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I wanted the belts and pulleys to be on show, but I am not keen on open belts… all it takes is one stone! I have made these before out of the original covers. Start by cutting holes with a hole saw, and then cut the oval out. for this I use a saw in the dremel but a saw is OK. Then I marked the profile on some 3mm polycarbonate and cut that to shape. With that in the cut out, I drilled some 3mm holes half in the cover half in the poly. the windows are held in with some 3mm flanged bolts, washers and nylock nuts. I did ad a dab of high strength nutlock and some small neoprene washers as well.
I then hydrodipped them. I know that fake carbon is not everyone’s thing but I like it, and when covered with a lacquer its VERY durable and UV stable, unlike the real stuff! The actual process is easy, and the film and activator is cheap. link to a video below of how its done.
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/03/52727367153_0e169e911e_o-copy.jpg)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jh6Hh1F0-Yg (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jh6Hh1F0-Yg)
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Polishing day… I did the engine cases a few weeks ago. I then set a side a full day to polish the rest of the alloy… its a dirty, hard, and somewhat dangerous job! the swinging arm took ages! I used to do it in the workshop, but it made such a mess I now do it on the drive. I have a 2.5 HP 3000 RPM motor that I use that is an absolute beast and takes no prisoners if you get it wrong.
Its mentally draining to do actually, thinking about the angle you present the item to the wheel each time. I sand everything with 400 Mirka Abranet first (if you have not come across that product its a game changer, you will never use wet and dry again!) I use an 8" closed stitched mop and medium compound, followed by a loose mop with fine compound. I use some very fine compound on the stainless.
That evening I had a bath as I was so filthy. I actually used fairy liquid to clean me off as ordinary soap doesn’t touch it. Next day I absolutely ached all over!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/03/52727602926_a22d586296_o-copy.jpg)
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the engine parts I had been waiting for came, and I finished off the belt covers. I also made the housing for the hall effect triggers, the most accurate bit of machining I have done in years as I needed to locate the sensors exactly 135 degrees apart. I will post some pictures later on that. But for now here is the engine!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/03/52734794468_667d534ab7_o-copy.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/03/52734563999_5414589360_o-copy.jpg)
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THAT is spectacular work Buzz, you are “lightyears” ahead of me in your approach to detail… :bow: :thumb:
If I may suggest, the intake tracts seem to adopt a different approach to your usual theme, do you concur ?
But irregardless (sic), I reiterate that there should be…
Kiwi Roy for electrical.
Canuck 750 and Charlie for restorations.
Roper for mechanical instruction.
Beard, Meinolf and Beetle for maps and tuning.
Daniel Kalal for touring advice and example.
Yourself for “ground up” builds…. :bow: :thumb:
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THAT is spectacular work Buzz, you are “lightyears” ahead of me in your approach to detail… :bow: :thumb:
If I may suggest, the intake tracts seem to adopt a different approach to your usual theme, do you concur ?
But irregardless (sic), I reiterate that there should be…
Kiwi Roy for electrical.
Canuck 750 and Charlie for restorations.
Roper for mechanical instruction.
Beard, Meinolf and Beetle for maps and tuning.
Daniel Kalal for touring advice and example.
Yourself for “ground up” builds…. :bow: :thumb:
Thanks :grin:
yes, on those manifolds I decided to leave the welds rather than sand them off, there are other features I have left to keep that "home made look" like the exhaust.
I do like to build custom, as its the fabrication I like, but I have done many restorations in the past but not documented them... We never used to have a camera in our pockets! its actually one of my big regrets that I didnt take more film pictures over the years...
I did restore a Monster recently, here is a video of its story
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lH-Qm5iLBho
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You sure don’t sit still! Again I am just amazed with your fabrication skills, second to none. I really enjoy studying your posts, there is so much I can learn from your work.
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You sure don’t sit still! Again I am just amazed with your fabrication skills, second to none. I really enjoy studying your posts, there is so much I can learn from your work.
Thanks! I do like to share what I do... Although we have three kids and two granddaughters they are not interested in what I do, so I don't have anyone to pass my skills onto, hence I blog about it :grin:
I like to fabricate things... not just bikes! a couple of years ago my wife asked for a BBQ... and fire pit... OK I thought, and then she complicated it by saying she wanted her own grill as she is veggie :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
I wanted to make something that would last, so I had a one meter disk spun into a dish out of 6mm thick 316 stainless steel, and then made some grills. here is the result!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2019/08/48530777852_9cc7da5f82_z.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2019/08/48544806187_5da04539e5_o.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2019/08/48530618751_f0066071ea_z.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2019/08/48552014932_e382eb6c82_o.jpg)
(http://)
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A nice part of the build is when you start to pull it all together. All that preparation of parts for months before all comes together quite quickly.
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/03/52737681132_f1d9525581_o.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/03/52738687648_98b12c3841_o-copy.jpg)
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One of the things that was missing on the bike when I bought it was a gear lever. No problem I though… until I saw the price! so I decided to make one, and while I was on, make it slightly longer to suit my big feet. I took the one off my other bike as a pattern. I milled it out of a solid piece of alloy plate, and then hand filed it all to shape, and gave it a polish, I was quite pleased with the result!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/03/gear-lever.jpg)
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out in the daylight for the first time in a while ;D
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/03/52744687262_221f51f336_o-small.jpg)
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One of the things I wanted on this build was a clean looking rear end. I struggled to find a rear light that was suitable, so in the end I have fitted three 10mm superbrite LED’s as a rear light, and used a resister and diode so its bright and then brighter to act as a stop light.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g6Mc2fn0_Kc
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I have made a few similar Hall Effect ignition pickups in the past and they have worked brilliantly. This is a refinement on those. This time I have used an alloy cam wheel and put the magnets directly into that, rather than use a separate wheel. the magnets are 3mm as opposed to the 4mm ones I have used in the past, lets hope they are OK! I also swapped out the allen bolts for some none magnetic A4 ones just in case it picked those up.
Previously I have had a small discrepancy in the timing cylinder to cylinder, which is OK as I can compensate for that in the Ignitech software... But it irritated me that I had to do that! I put it down to my rotary table that is not the best and only measures degrees and its difficult to get the holes for the sensors precisely 135 degrees apart. This this time I borrowed a mates table that is very accurate and can measure to minutes. It was a pleasure to use such a wonderful piece of quality kit! Making the pickup plate took some time, probably the most accurate work I have done in a while!
I am not sure i needed the heat sink, but it looked aesthetically pleasing so I used it.
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/03/aa-ignition-3.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/03/aa-ignition-2.jpg)
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I have made a few similar Hall Effect ignition pickups in the past and they have worked brilliantly...
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/03/aa-ignition-2.jpg)
Wow, even the electrics are custom. Are the pickups also from Ignitech, which you installed into the hub you fabricated?
I like the heat sink fins.
... Although we have three kids and two granddaughters they are not interested in what I do, so I don't have anyone to pass my skills onto, hence I blog about it :grin:
I like to fabricate things... not just bikes! a couple of years ago my wife asked for a BBQ... and fire pit...
You can teach me! I will relocate to England for a few years. I could sleep in your shop, keep the bikes shiny...
Seriously, blogging and video tutorials are a great way to spread the wealth. Thank you.
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Wow, even the electrics are custom. Are the pickups also from Ignitech, which you installed into the hub you fabricated?
I like the heat sink fins.
You can teach me! I will relocate to England for a few years. I could sleep in your shop, keep the bikes shiny...
Seriously, blogging and video tutorials are a great way to spread the wealth. Thank you.
The pickups are just some latching Hall sensors and a bit of circuitry to make them work with an induction type TCIP4 ignitech They do actually sell one specifically for Hall, but I think it just incorporates what I have replicated.
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I finished the throttle off... I had to make the adjusters as they needed to be a custom size. I also used cycle gear cable as the nice thing about it is the outer wire is longitudinal, which has several advantages, the one being that you can cut it so the inner liner can extend into the adjusters and into the throttle which makes the entire run of the inner cable within the liner. I was very pleased with the light action, and only a 1/4 of a turn closed to open. We all know a fast action throttle adds 20 BHP ;D
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/04/52804120023_8691b862ac_o-copy-1.jpg)
I know that I should use suppressed leads, but I prefer to use copper cored ones. they are easy to make up and you can make them to the spot on length. I have had that crimp tool 50 years!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/04/52807624931_ec8e947555_o-copy.jpg)
one of the things I wanted to do was get rid of the rubber frame bungs… so I turned up some alloy ones. I needed some alloy bar, so I popped into my local metal recyclers… he had several skips of alloy round bar and machined square and oblong billets, all different sizes… many marked on the end with the material specification! They were just about to be taken away so I had to be quick, I really had to restrain myself though, it was like Christmas had come early!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/04/52817386660_86e750f077_o-copy.jpg)
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Things don't always go to plan... I tried to starts it... I had a spark, and lots of backfires, but it would not run. I checked a few things and came to the conclusion it was the pickups... I wasn't sure if it was the actual hall sensors, or the magnets and spacing. I decided to try the magnets and spacing first, and it turned out to be that. not sure if it was the strength of the magnets, or the spacing (I suspect it was the spacing) but either way I had to re design the rotor. soon as I did this, it fired up and settled to a nice tickover. I also breathed a sigh of relief as I had put a lot of effort into the exhaust and didn't know what it would sound like! To me it sounded awesome! here is a short video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4z1kqUoEVk
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I need to approach things a bit more like you do Buzz.
As Canuck said, that work is just awesome, without the Teutonic look that those Kaffeemaschine guys go for, they have all the taste of a wooden spoon.
Certainly there will always be varying approaches regarding taste, but your work is beautiful, semi understated British and just fantastic.
I could not produce your standard of finish, but it is the direction that any would be creator of motorcycle art should go.
Sort of like Bimota meets Moto GP or WSBK…. :bow: :thumb:
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Thanks Huzo!
the fuel tap proved to be a challenge. It couldn’t go on the tank, but I also didn’t want to on show. In the end I made a small bracket and mounted it out of sight.
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/04/52817416095_07960f0fae_o.jpg)
I popped into the paint supplier where my mate works… he persuaded me to try some new lacquer which he said the customers were raving about… I reluctantly agreed to try it. Although I had prepped the tank, I thought I would try it on the mudguard first… I am glad I did! It was easy enough to spray, and gave a nice gloss from the gun, BUT it took almost two hours before it was dust free… That may be ok in a heated, dust free paint booth, but in my garage its a distinct disadvantage. So its back to what I know and I went back for some of the formula I always use!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/04/52819705609_3244325911_o-copy.jpg)
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I like your choice of colour on the great bikes you build. Have you ever thought of building a Laverda special? Orange is the perfect colour for a Laverda. With your exceptional skill set the result would send the Laverda guys drooling.
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I usually don't care for orange, but that really pops. Maybe I should go orange...
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It’s sort of like his signature on what he does.
You could see a custom bike in the distance and if it’s that colour, you’ll be reasonably sure it’s a “Buzz Build…”
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I like your choice of colour on the great bikes you build. Have you ever thought of building a Laverda special? Orange is the perfect colour for a Laverda. With your exceptional skill set the result would send the Laverda guys drooling.
One of my first ever restorations was a Jota... that's where my love of Orange and silver came from!
Way back in 1980 I bunked a day off work and went to the Laverda importers, Slaters in Bromyard. He tossed me some keys to a Jota and said "I am off for some dinner, don't come back for two hours” Well I was hooked, but couldn’t afford it… So I looked around for a tatty one and found one for £300! Those were the days. I restored it and had 30 years of pleasure from that bike!
Soon after it was restored I popped in to see Richard Slater on the bike, and he commented on the paintwork, and said he needed a tank and body work painting urgently… He asked if he could have the tank and bodywork off my bike! So we took it all off, put on a brand new tank and panels and I rode off! I did lots of paint jobs for him subsequently…
One other story is I went one day and he was moaning that the factory had no footrest plates… he had quite a few bikes off the road and customers were complaining… He gave me some broken plates ( they broke when the bike fell over) and I took them home…
I welded the parts together and fillered them until they were to shape… I then sprayed them with polyester spraying filler to increase the size by 1/77 which is how much cast alloy shrinks. I then cast some up in a sand mould and machined them up! He was over the moon! I sold probably 100 sets over the years…
On the back of the casting I always put TL… When I see a Laverda I always look to see if there are my plates on it! I have found two so far!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/1.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/9.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/p1000600.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/laverda-footrests.jpg)
Thats me in 1982 in Spain on the Jota!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/laverda-spain0001.jpg)
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here is one that might interest you Guzzi guys!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tk7wXn--i4Q
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One of my first ever restorations was a Jota... that's where my love of Orange and silver came from!
Way back in 1980 I bunked a day off work and went to the Laverda importers, Slaters in Bromyard. He tossed me some keys to a Jota and said "I am off for some dinner, don't come back for two hours” Well I was hooked, but couldn’t afford it… So I looked around for a tatty one and found one for £300! Those were the days. I restored it and had 30 years of pleasure from that bike!
Soon after it was restored I popped in to see Richard Slater on the bike, and he commented on the paintwork, and said he needed a tank and body work painting urgently… He asked if he could have the tank and bodywork off my bike! So we took it all off, put on a brand new tank and panels and I rode off! I did lots of paint jobs for him subsequently…
One other story is I went one day and he was moaning that the factory had no footrest plates… he had quite a few bikes off the road and customers were complaining… He gave me some broken plates ( they broke when the bike fell over) and I took them home…
I welded the parts together and fillered them until they were to shape… I then sprayed them with polyester spraying filler to increase the size by 1/77 which is how much cast alloy shrinks. I then cast some up in a sand mould and machined them up! He was over the moon! I sold probably 100 sets over the years…
On the back of the casting I always put TL… When I see a Laverda I always look to see if there are my plates on it! I have found two so far!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/1.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/9.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/p1000600.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/laverda-footrests.jpg)
Thats me in 1982 in Spain on the Jota!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/laverda-spain0001.jpg)
Great history! Thanks for sharing it.
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Here it is, finished... I am pleased with the look, even though it divides opinion!
This will be the last full bike build for a while. This is my 12th bike build, they usually take me all winter to complete, and then I ride them over the summer.
I have no doubt there will be some tinkering, and I will post the results of that, but I wont be doing another full build until September 2024. I will be doing a video on the build soon.
The plan is to spend the summer as we always do, Holidays, days out, and going for rides... Then in the autumn its time to do some work on the house, new kitchen, bathroom, general renovations and decorating. The last house purge was the year I retired... 14 years ago! My wife has been very tolerant over the years!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/04/52823269662_e877119b3f_o-copy.jpg)
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I gave the garage a good clean out the other day, which meant getting all the bikes on the drive... I thought it worthy of a picture.
I also did 80 miles on the new build, it ran very nice from the off... I did however stop a couple of times to tweak the air screw on the carbs. Its such a fun bike to ride! I also took the Guzzi out for a 20 mile ride... here's to a warm dry summer!
Here are some of the builds I have done over the years, yes there is an orange and silver theme, its what I like, and with all my builds, I build them for me! I have done restorations in the past rather than custom builds and have kept these in original or period colours...
One of my big regrets is not taking photos... I have very few film photoes from the pre digital age which is a shame.
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/04/52834315075_66e44499c5_o-copy.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/04/52830526371_8c6459ecd2_o-copy.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/04/52834147004_025fcf2553_o-copy.jpg)
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I thought I would update... I have been putting a fair few miles on the Guzzi... It runs really well and pulls like a train! the ride is a little hard and I may well change the rear shocks though...
However, not everything on a build like this goes to plan… I have been doing a fair few long and fast runs and after one very spirited run I noticed oil coming out the breather… looks like the one I made didn’t work. I set about a completer re-design, and made one out of alloy sheet. Here is the result. I have given it a good thrashing and all is now well!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/04/breather-2.jpg)
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I have given it a good thrashing and all is now well!
https://youtu.be/26Bkfg3Bn84
Can never be a bad idea.. :popcorn:
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well this and the Guzzi build comes to an end (that's if custom builds ever do!)
Have to say I am loving both bikes, they are very different to ride! The Duke is so light and nimble at 168kg wet, with the Guzzi at 200kg
This will be my last build for 18 months... I normally build a bike over winter, and ride all summer, so that's the plan this year... then in September I will start work on the house... Happy wife, happy life!
Hopefully I can start another build September 2024, so plenty of time to look around for anything that takes my fancy
for now here is a video that covers the build...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tOb8nLGY9C8
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Here is the finished Guzzi.
I did spend some time tweaking the ignition, but I have to say that it was pretty close with the advance curve it came with it from Ignitech. It took a couple of days to sort the jetting out on the carbs, but what’s nice is they are easy to get at to change jets, and these carbs came with the slow air screws as opposed to slow air jets which makes life easier. I have a quiet road where I go, rather than annoy the neighbours where I can ride up and down, do plug chops and adjustments.
To help others if they do simmilar, The jetting I ended up with is as follows:-
#155 main jet, #50 pilot jet, ELS needle (4th groove from the top) I started with an ELT needle but had a slight fluff at 1/8 throttle so changed to ELS and it cured it.
here's to a warm dry summer!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/05/web-final-3.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/05/web-final-1.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/05/web-final-2.jpg)
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I have been putting quite a few miles on it... here is how it sounds!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AZkHruZz2rU
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I have been putting quite a few miles on it... here is how it sounds!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AZkHruZz2rU
It sounds lovely mate :thumb: :grin:
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June, the weather has been great and I really am enjoying this bike and putting a few miles on it! however, every time I looked at the under slung exhaust I felt it didn’t suit the bike… I know a lot of people liked it (some didnt...) but for me it was wrong. it was the long straight front pipe… So out came the welder and I made a new one! here it is!
this feels like a hooligan of a bike The combination of the light weight, the torque delivery, the riding position, and the handling all bring out the hooligan
I have had the wheel come up a few times
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/06/53000578666_74cb71e377_o-copy.jpg)
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They say a custom build is never really finished… that’s a true statement! while the four cable throttle worked really well… it was just a little too slow for my liking, taking just more than a fist full from closed to open. Also, after buying a clutch cable from Venhill for the Guzzi and being impressed with how much lighter it made the clutch, I decided to buy some of their teflon lined conduit, and some of their flexible wire rope as opposed to cable. That has made a significant difference to the feel of the throttle, especially as I extended the liner into the adjusters and throttle housing. I also incorporated a positive stop for fully open on the throttle, save straining the cables. I always enjoy silver soldering and watching the solder flow into the gaps to make a seamless joint! I did have to buy some more sticks of solder as I was getting low… £10 a stick now! it used to be £1 last time I bought some!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/08/53095816875_a6c13d1085_c.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/08/53095910468_b57e532018_c.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/08/53095597124_0547f77c02_c.jpg)
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I really think I should just give up…!
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I really think I should just give up…!
never give up!
I have been out and about on the Guzzi quite a bit lately... A photographer captured this at a local bike meeting... my smile says it all!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/08/53108923421_b1c4c6deb1_c.jpg)
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It doesn’t seem like you, to have the clutch cable routed that way.
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It doesn’t seem like you, to have the clutch cable routed that way.
its the throttle cable :thumb: I did originally run it under the tank, but that caused it to stick. so I moved it temporarily as I am going to replace the throttle and cables soon, but didn't want to start the job as the weather has been good and I wanted to ride it!
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well it had to be done!
if anyone is interested I did a page on my blog about paint spraying at home...
https://jtccc.wordpress.com/projects-2/paint-spraying-at-home/
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/08/53105700880_d520560f25_c.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/08/53105288851_de2ffdf72f_c.jpg)
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never give up!
I have been out and about on the Guzzi quite a bit lately... A photographer captured this at a local bike meeting... my smile says it all!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/08/53108923421_b1c4c6deb1_c.jpg)
Excellent photo !
That's such a cool bike.
And the grin on your face !!!
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Excellent photo !
That's such a cool bike.
And the grin on your face !!!
Thanks! here is another!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/08/53113326000_6120d15743_c.jpg)
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I have been doing quite a few miles before I put the bike away for the winter and getting used to it. One thing that annoyed me was the feel of the front brake… It was quite soft and somehow just lacked the feel I have with the Ducati’s. I looked on Ebay and thought I would give one of these radial master cylinders a go. They are quite neat in that the adjuster alters the pivot point of the lever so you can adjust the lever ratio! much better feel now! So much so I have bought a similar but better designed one to try on the Ducati!
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/11/53191375490_30103bac8a_c.jpg)
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A custom build is never finished....
When I first built this bike I wanted an underslung silencer, which I did make… Unfortunately the bike ran like a bag of crap with it on, due to a silly design error i made in opposing the inlets from each cylinder into the silencer.. at 1/8 throttle, it ran rough. So this is MKll design!
I also wanted to put the British standard numbers on it, just in case the MOT man was in a bad mood… so I had some stencils made up and etched them on along with a Ducati logo. this is a very easy and simple process, here is a short video of how it’s done.
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/12/53413186032_5a4215bb5b_o-copy-1.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/12/53414546325_9f36e0a148_o-copy.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/12/53412940283_7b589130be_o-copy.jpg)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8EUHDefIB7E
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Probably my final post....
Well I said I wouldn't build another bike this winter, instead focusing on some house renovations which I started in September, planning to finish around March. But I got my skates on and had them finished by Christmas, gaining me MANY brownie points...
Last week I got chatting to a mate who had this Honda SLR 650 at the back of the shed, not ridden for a few years. Well I have always fancied doing a big single, and as this was Electric start, it fitted the bill perfectly! I have gone to the dark side! :wink:
I like to have a design brief in my head before I start, In this case, as always it will be minimalist… As light as I can make it… Parts I do put back on I will ask myself, “can I make it?” The front wheel will be changed to a 17” to match the rear, which will entail a wheel building session, something I have wanted to do for years… we will see on that one!
I ordered the tank soon as I got it... Brand new... off a CG125 Honda, great quality, came with a new cap and tap... £38 delivered, how do they do it for that little!
If anyone wants to follow this build it will be on my blog... www.jtccc.wordpress .com or I am happy to post on this thread if that's what people want?
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2024/01/53444842394_a95efcbb65_o-copy.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2024/01/53443460707_86cb7353dd_o-copy.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2024/01/53452147305_df9d80d002_o-copy.jpg)