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Step one Huzo IMO check that all the little vents in the back flow air.Just suck on them in turn While I had the B1100, I had my hands on 2 sets of clocks and one of the lower vents were blocked on both. Opened it up and no more clock misting. My theory for the misting is that with the bottom vent blocked, warm air flow can't rise through the clock nd out, so the moisture condenses out
I would be more concerned that any type “forced” airflow into the unit may carry any type of contamination, especially fine dust or oil mist. If so, it will only accrue over time to cause more problems.
During these colder months, my Norge can sometimes gather a little condensation in the instruments.This as I understand it, is nothing new, but for me it is.I am considering at some stage, of boring a one quarter inch hole into the back of the cluster and running a tube down into the general vicinity of the alternator, facing forward just above the oil cooler.A second tube in parallel facing rearwards in an area of airflow, to create some light suction.This is to provide some amount of “forced” ventilation to clear any condensation.What’s y’all’s opinion ?
Very wealthy….Hmmmm.Don’t tell anyone, but I already am..![/quoteJust don't forget my 10 lbs of Roo jerky each and every month....
Well I didn’t know they had vents, but I’ll check.
Yep, they're round 2.5mm dia and maybe 3mm tall off the casing.If you look square on the end you'll see a "wall" to about 1/2 diameter. A sort of rudimentary labyrinth seal to stop water driving in but that's less if a possibility on the N1100 compared to the B1100 Also suck don't blow on the vents . You don't want clocks filling with beer saturated beath
I would also insert a micro electric-magnetic platinum/Enstineinum heating element. Find a orifice small and dark and stick it up in there.
I constructed a tubing purge system for my Griso’s instruments. It has a chamber full of desiccant, and also has an aquarium pump to circulate the air.
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