Just venting…

[Huzo]

During these colder months, my Norge can sometimes gather a little condensation in the instruments.
This as I understand it, is nothing new, but for me it is.
I am considering at some stage, of boring a one quarter inch hole into the back of the cluster and running a tube down into the general vicinity of the alternator, facing forward just above the oil cooler.
A second tube in parallel facing rearwards in an area of airflow, to create some light suction.
This is to provide some amount of “forced” ventilation to clear any condensation.
What’s y’all’s opinion ?

[Canuck750]

Can’t say I have had instruments that collect condensation. On my ‘modern’ bike I tend to watch my speed on the GPS and ignore the bikes instruments. The Italian instruments on just about every vintage Italian bike I own are so erratic and unreliable I don’t pay much attention to them, only after fitting a cheap GPS driven Chinese speedo to my 1972 Eldorado do I pay attention to the speedometer.

Your idea of venting the instrument shell is interesting, I do wonder how condensation is getting in between the  gauge face and the glass? Most gauges are pretty well sealed with the only potential opening being a light bulb socket. Perhaps the rubber boot dealing the bull has perished?

[Huzo]

Entirely possible Jim.
I guess there’d have to be some capillary sized vent to forestall the possibility of pressurisation and subsequent cracking of the “glass”.
In any case, I reckon I’ll have more success in getting errant moisture deposits out, than stopping them getting in.
It needs to be said though, that the Speedo/Odometer are surgically accurate, so I want them to stay in use.

[tris]

Step one Huzo IMO check that all the little vents in the back flow air.

Just suck on them in turn

While I had the B1100, I had my hands on 2 sets of clocks and one of the lower vents were blocked on both.

Opened it up and  no more clock misting.

My theory for the misting is that with the bottom vent blocked, warm air flow can't rise through the clock nd out, so the moisture condenses out

[Huzo]

Step one Huzo IMO check that all the little vents in the back flow air.

Just suck on them in turn

While I had the B1100, I had my hands on 2 sets of clocks and one of the lower vents were blocked on both.

Opened it up and  no more clock misting.

My theory for the misting is that with the bottom vent blocked, warm air flow can't rise through the clock nd out, so the moisture condenses out

Well I didn’t know they had vents, but I’ll check.

[cliffrod]

I would be more concerned that any type  “forced” airflow into the unit may carry any type of contamination, especially fine dust or oil mist.  If so, it will only accrue over time to cause more problems. 

[Zenermaniac]

I would be more concerned that any type  “forced” airflow into the unit may carry any type of contamination, especially fine dust or oil mist.  If so, it will only accrue over time to cause more problems.

Maybe put a chainsaw fuel filter at the end of the input tube.



I used one on the tank vent tube after doing a canisterectomy just to keep dust out.

[SIR REAL ED]

During these colder months, my Norge can sometimes gather a little condensation in the instruments.
This as I understand it, is nothing new, but for me it is.
I am considering at some stage, of boring a one quarter inch hole into the back of the cluster and running a tube down into the general vicinity of the alternator, facing forward just above the oil cooler.
A second tube in parallel facing rearwards in an area of airflow, to create some light suction.
This is to provide some amount of “forced” ventilation to clear any condensation.
What’s y’all’s opinion ?

Just drill it to vent it and forget the tube!

You will never achieve enough pressure differential to get any appreciable air flow thru the tube.

You could always connect the "downstream" tube to the bike airbox to get the engine to draw a little bit of air thru your instruments.

When done, claim that "the HuzoCharger" adds 5 horsepower, increases gas mileage by 10%, and corrects any speedometer error that is present!

When it hits the market, I expect 10 lbs of Too Jerky per month as a royalty!

[SIR REAL ED]

For additional horsepower and fuel mileage increases, you could mount a big ass funnel to the inlet of the upstream line and point the big end of the funnel in the direction of travel.

For only a 25% price increase.

Funnel options could include Guzzi red, Laverda orange, stainless steel, carbon fiber.......

Some of motorcycle is form related ya know, it's not all about functional improvements.....

[SIR REAL ED]

WHOA!!

Plumb the upstream line into the exhaust system to force hot air into the instruments while the airbox in sucking the air out of the instruments.

another 20% increase in benefits, at a 50% price increase....

You are going to be a very wealthy man!!!!

[Huzo]

Very wealthy….Hmmmm.
Don’t tell anyone, but I already am..!

[SIR REAL ED]

Very wealthy….Hmmmm.
Don’t tell anyone, but I already am..!
[/quote

Just don't forget my 10 lbs of Roo jerky each and every month....

[moto]

I constructed a tubing purge system for my Griso’s instruments. It has a chamber full of desiccant, and also has an aquarium pump to circulate the air.

[tris]

Well I didn’t know they had vents, but I’ll check.

Yep, they're round  2.5mm dia and maybe 3mm tall off the casing.

If you look square on the end you'll see a "wall" to about 1/2 diameter. A sort of rudimentary labyrinth seal to stop water driving in  but that's less if a possibility on the N1100 compared to the B1100

Also suck don't blow on the vents .
You don't want clocks filling with beer saturated beath 

[Huzo]

Yep, they're round  2.5mm dia and maybe 3mm tall off the casing.

If you look square on the end you'll see a "wall" to about 1/2 diameter. A sort of rudimentary labyrinth seal to stop water driving in  but that's less if a possibility on the N1100 compared to the B1100

Also suck don't blow on the vents .
You don't want clocks filling with beer saturated beath 

Touche’

[bad Chad]

I would also insert a micro electric-magnetic platinum/Enstineinum heating element.  Find a orifice small and dark and stick it up in there.

[SIR REAL ED]

I would also insert a micro electric-magnetic platinum/Enstineinum heating element.  Find a orifice small and dark and stick it up in there.

Might be cheaper to get some little 12vdc power heating elements for camp stove and mount them below the instruments.

big benefit for the touring types is you then boil a pot of water by setting a pot on the instrument panel.

[SIR REAL ED]

I constructed a tubing purge system for my Griso’s instruments. It has a chamber full of desiccant, and also has an aquarium pump to circulate the air.

That is clever!  I admire your creativity!

Ffirst I'd try a line running from the instruments to the airbox.  There is a huge air pump on the bike already, might as well use it.

Huzo will probably complain about the noticeable horsepower loss.....  But after a few hundred miles, he'll get used to it.