Amazing self-healing V7

[Yukonica]

Half way home from work last Saturday my oil light comes on.
I pulled over and waited until the engine was cool enough to touch the dipstick.
Oil level is fine; no obvious drips so I start the engine to listen for carnage but everything sounds normal even though the light comes on as soon as the bike fires to life. Rather than walk the last 20 km I figured I'd ride.

Today when I went to bring it in the shop, the oil light went out after ignition  ... as usual.
I let the bike warm up for a couple minutes and the light stayed off.
Is it possible an air bubble blocked a channel?
Leaving it sit for a week gave the air enough time to percolate up and open the flow?

Thoughts?

[yogidozer]

bad sender or sender connection?

[Chuck in Indiana]

Is it possible an air bubble blocked a channel?

Hmmm, looking at the magic 8 ball..

Outlook not so good.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Was it raining by any chance?
The switches are notoriously unreliable.

[John A]

Unreliable indicators are worse than no indicators. It's a roll of the dice for your engine, defiantly check it out.

[Yukonica]

Unreliable indicators are worse than no indicators. It's a roll of the dice for your engine, defiantly check it out.

No rain. It was unusually hot (28C). I know that problem well; this bike does not like heavy rain.
I'm kind of the mind of Chuck with the magic 8 ball....
Why would a connection that has failed when shutdown reconnect after sitting for a while?
If the connection had been intermittent I'd go down that rabbit hole but the results were repeatable at the time of failure; engine light on in pre-start, turns off for start, then comes back on as soon as bike is running.
Did it several times while I was doing my roadside gawk.

[Muzz]

Why would a connection that has failed when shutdown reconnect after sitting for a while?

Heat can expand that connection, breaks the circuit, then reconnects after it cools down.

I have been caught when a brand new condenser had a break in the middle of the pigtail wire. Would run, fail, leave 10 minutes it would run, fail, leav...........

Took a while to find.

[Ncdan]

The only indicators that can be trusted completely is the old original one, if you hear a KNOCKING coming from the motor or smoke pouring from the rear, pull over and cut the motor off immediately.

[John A]

the indicator light should be labeled " replace Main bearings" for when it comes on it'll be too late

[malik]

If your bike doesn't like heavy rain, I'd hazard a guess & say there's something amiss with at least one of the sensors or its wiring. Neither of my V7s have any trouble in heavy rain - I may, but not the machines.

My experience with the oil reassure warning light (red):-
At around 136,000 km I de-greased the oil pressure sensor (perhaps because it was covered in gunk?), & hosed it off. The red light stayed on until the engine dried it out. And most times afterwards, after washing the bike, the red oil pressure warning light would show until it dried out. At 169,000km the bike refused to start - on the self test when the ignition was first turned on, the red oil pressure light did not show. Testing the oil pressure sensor (the test procedure is set out in the workshop manual) showed that it was dead. Replacing that sensor fixed the problem (access is a bit awkward on the V7C - it required 2 pairs of hands).

The occasional and intermittent display of the engine management warning light (Amber) is a problem I am yet to solve. At one time it was the rev sensor -  a smear of three bond on the o-ring there seemed to solve that one, but I'm not sure that that was the only problem there.

[Chuck in Indiana]

the indicator light should be labeled " replace Main bearings" for when it comes on it'll be too late

  True, true.