Jackal front wheel removal

[Moda253]

Hey guys looking to take off the front wheel to start getting into fork seal replacement. The Jackal has a slotted nut on the left hand side of the axle that appears to need a special socket (looks as though MG Cycle sells them) but wondering if that socket is absolutely necessary to remove the axle?

Thoughts?

[rocker59]

You can use a monkey wrench if you want.  The last time you take the nut off.  LOL!

Most people replaced that special nut with a normal hex nut years ago.

If you want to remain stock, order the special tool.

[fotoguzzi]

I used a channel lock pliers.

[Moda253]

Thanks fellas I was able to use a screw driver with a dead blow hammer to tap it loose then spin it off.

Will be replacing with a nylock hex nut.

[guzzisteve]

There was a hook wrench in the stock tool kit, just look for aftermarket wrench. You can also use a punch &  hammer.
To late

[FarmallA]

I bought the special tool from MG Cycle (Think I might have been trying to justify the shipping on a couple of decals!!).  Haven't used it yet , on my Sport 1100i.
 
But of course, when I actually looked at the special nut, a PO already took a pipe wrench to it.

Not my smartest purchase.

FarmallA
Steve

[Moda253]

Ok I am probably thinking way too hard on this nut thing.

Anyways for those of you who have switched to just a hex nut (M18 1.5 pitch FYI) did you just ise thread locker on it? (Blue or red???) Because I cannot seem to fun a nylon lock nut that isn’t too tall (?) for it to engage the nylon.

Near as I can tell the nut itself is added protection against the axle waggling loose. The pinch bolts on the fork seem to do most of the work holding the axle in place.

[Moparnut72]

Exactly concerning the pinch bolts. The axle ain't goin nowhere. Pardon the grammar.
kk

[fotoguzzi]

I hope your being real careful with the pinch bolts, a little tight then over to the nextdoor one, a light twist and back and forth. You can crack the fork leg if you were to really reef on it. Might even be worth using. Torq wrench.

[FarmallA]

fotoguzzi has a point, maybe use a torque wrench, you want to get it right.

When i first went through my Sporti, I found a pinch bolt missing on the bottom triple tree.  Then a couple hundred miles later a found that one of the axle pinch bolts was missing too.  i had never checked their torque, but i'm sure all four were there. The other three were only finger tight.

It's nice that the PO didn't crack the fork leg, but I'm also glad the front wheel didn't fall off.

FarmallA
Steve

[Moda253]

I hope your being real careful with the pinch bolts, a little tight then over to the nextdoor one, a light twist and back and forth. You can crack the fork leg if you were to really reef on it. Might even be worth using. Torq wrench.

Thanks Foto! I didn’t try to toque them down too tight. I was more worried about stripping out the threads than anything to be honest.

[Moda253]

Hmmmm so by chance does anyone happen to know the torque for those screws?

fotoguzzi has a point, maybe use a torque wrench, you want to get it right.

When i first went through my Sporti, I found a pinch bolt missing on the bottom triple tree.  Then a couple hundred miles later a found that one of the axle pinch bolts was missing too.  i had never checked their torque, but i'm sure all four were there. The other three were only finger tight.

It's nice that the PO didn't crack the fork leg, but I'm also glad the front wheel didn't fall off.

FarmallA
Steve

[FarmallA]

I don't.  Anyway, I believe the Jackal has a different fork from the 1100 Sporti, (upside down WP). 

But I believe the bolts on the sport are 6-9 ft-lb.   It's not very much. You might even consider a 1/4 inch drive, inch-lb torque wrench.  9 ft-lb=108 inch-lb.

FarmallA
Steve

[fotoguzzi]

If I’m reading this right it says 32fp. That seems way too much.

Bolt, fork cover to wheel spindle…not sure this is the bolt we are talking about, anyone?

https://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_tonti_torque_specifications.html

Oh yeah, you do this before the axle nut, right? Or after?

[Chuck in Indiana]

^^^^^ never take Guzzi torque specs at face value. 
I torque the spindle then snug up the pinch bolts.

[fotoguzzi]

Oh yeah, you do this before the axle nut, right? Or after?

oops, got this wrong, don’t know what I was thinking, can’t blame it on alcohol cause I don’t use that anymore. Old age? I just turned 69.

[pehayes]

Many faced this issue when the 98EV and the Centauro came out with that axle nut.  Solution was a hook wrench from Lowes.  $12.  A bit large for a travel tool, but quick and  handy in the home shop.  IIRC I did a little bit of minor Dremel grinding on the tips to improve engagement with the nut notches.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Sink-Wrench/1002633420



Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

[John A]

We get in trouble with the axel pinch bolts because with the pair of them if you torque them to the standard value for that size, the force on the web is more than it has the strength for. You’ll notice that side is thinner because of the larger diameter of the axel. It’s one of those places that a torque wrench can get you in trouble. As Chuck said , snug is all it needs to be. Going back and forth when you tighten one, the other feels loose until you get to a point where the both feel about the same if you go in small amounts. After I broke one in ‘84, I started looking at them at rallies where I found many that were visibly too closed up at the gap. Mine didn’t break when I initially over tightened it but some time later and I realized I had been overtightening it as a general practice. The cost ( about a hunnerd bones) of a new lower fork leg makes me remember that lesson.

[fotoguzzi]

I always do it by feel. No torq wrench for those bolts 🙂

[Moda253]

Man here I thought I was asking a silly question and got a whole bunch of great info

[Moparnut72]

About the only fasteners I use a torque wrench on are head bolts. A few years ago I was upgrading the valvetrain on my Harley. The had the cam plate off and figured I should torque the bolts holding it on as the holes were larger than the bolts. I didn't finish as I approached the listed torque values I was petrified that the bolts would strip out the threads. I think that after years of doing this kind of work feel is a better way to go. Of course I learned from stripping a few things and having others come loose.
kk

[John A]

Forty years ago NASA came out with the results of a study they said found that the most consistently accurate torquing of fasteners was by an experienced mechanic doing it by feel. They disappeared the study. Just sayin’

[Moparnut72]

Also interesting was that when I undid the cam plate bolts the amount of torque to loosen them varied a great deal. Of course that may have been due to Harley's propensity to slather their bikes in blue Loctite. They must buy it in 55 gal drums.
kk

[John A]

CanAm does the same thing on their Spyders, even on some body panels. A little common sense on its use is lacking in my opinion.

[Texas Turnip]

A half century ago when I was running with a rough crowd hanging out at biker bars we'd put a dot of paint on the front axle bolt so you could tell if someone loosened it while you was in putting the snake on his woman.

Who was the clown that had the tread about the torque for valve caps? Highly technical about if they were plastic or metal.

Tex