Painting head pipe clamps

[guzzifan]

Has anyone painter the finned exhaust head pipe clamps on a round head big block?  Looking for a paint that has held up to the heat!  Thanks. 

[Cal3Me]

I have used both the VHT & Krylon products with good success. I have also had them powder coated a chrome color that works too.

Tim

[Vasco DG]

Paint tech must of come a long way.

I tried this when I was young and keen. The results were less than stellar!



Sorry, pic of a pic, best I could do.

Pete

[Stevex]

Ceramic coating.

[sidecarnutz]

Powder coat melts at 400 degrees. Not good on exhaust system stuff.

I'd recommend blasting the parts and coating them in Norrells moly resin. That gets baked at 350 degrees and is then resistant to even higher temps. It is made to finish guns and is very durable. Comes in many colors too. Totally chemical resistant too. Acetone just cleans it. Only way to remove it is blasting.

I keep a bottle of semi gloss black in the shop to do small parts with.

[Curtis Harper]

CeraKote is ceramic not powder. Supposed to be good to 1800 degrees from what I heard. Haven't tried it yet though.

[father guzzi obrian]

I had the huge fin clamps on my 72 Eldo, disgusted Pete to no end.... They worked, but they were somewhat over the top.... Other than that, my eldo was stock, pissed Pete off as it was fugly.... I love Pete.... He does not change ~;

[keuka4884]

Rustoleum makes a high heat barbeque flat black. Not as permanent as ceramic coating, but it works.

[jabberwocky]

I painted mine with VHT silver high heat rattle can paint, and two years later, they still look perfect. I also painted my rusty h pipe at the same time and it didn't hold up at all there. The cast iron seems to like that paint very well, and I did nothing but a very cursory wire brushing to prep.

[rodekyll]

Powder coat melts at 400 degrees. Not good on exhaust system stuff.

I'd recommend blasting the parts and coating them in Norrells moly resin. That gets baked at 350 degrees and is then resistant to even higher temps. It is made to finish guns and is very durable. Comes in many colors too. Totally chemical resistant too. Acetone just cleans it. Only way to remove it is blasting.

I keep a bottle of semi gloss black in the shop to do small parts with.

SOME powders are cured at 400.  Some at 325.  Some as high as 600.  Like moly resin, the curing gives them a higher temp failure point -- up to 1200+ for hi-temp.  I have hi-temp powdercoated finned head clamps and run them for years.

I have a pair of jerry cans powder coated in an industrial red -- nothing fancy.  I've bored holes in the tanks and braised in bungs for the tank fittings.  The torch discolored but did not ruin the adjacent powder, even with direct flame from the oxy/ac torch and the metal getting cherry red.  In fact, I have to feather it down to the metal with a freaking Makita grinder to recoat it.

[Jimbolong]

Rustoleum also makes a high heat engine paint

http://www.rustoleum.com/en/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/specialty-paints/high-heat

I have used this on the valve covers of my V7 classic and also on the engine side cases of a 650 Suzuki.  It works great.

[creaky99]

I've tried several "high heat" paints, VHT Flameproof is the best in the rattle can category....but.... you have to follow the curing instructions precisely or it won't last.