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I can only add that I was told by Jim Baron, one of the elite Guzzi techs in the world, that 10w60 was as near critical for long health engine life on 8v big blocks. And while not an absolute must for modern 2v Guzzi mills, it is definitely the best choice for those as well.
The 8V 1200s, are Oil Cooled Engines (as all 'Air Cooled' Engines are really).The Cooling Circuit Oil is pumped straight into the Heads, to flood the areas around the Exhaust Valves, and it gets extremely hot in there.That's why the -60 Fully Synthetic is specified.I wouldn't risk -50 in my Engines, under any circumstances.At the 'other end', I'd never hesitate to use a 20W-60 in Summer.You can get Mobil 1 in 10W-60, some BMW cars use it, it's reasonably priced, and should be available pretty much everywhere.Remember we can use car Oils in our Guzzis (Dry Clutches), so you don't have to fork out over-the-odds prices for Bike Oils.
Thank the good lord I had just poured 5 fingers of fine 10/60 Scotch before starting to read this thread.
The 8V 1200s, are Oil Cooled Engines (as all 'Air Cooled' Engines are really).The Cooling Circuit Oil is pumped straight into the Heads, to flood the areas around the Exhaust Valves, and it gets extremely hot in there.That's why the -60 Fully Synthetic is specified.I wouldn't risk -50 in my Engines, under any circumstances.
I have never jumped in on an oil thread before, but they say you should try everything once.
I've seen the tech paper from Guzzi at Hamlin's shop. 10-50 has been superseded by 10-60. Wanna read the manual? There it is.
Why do so many people have a problem just using what the owners manual recommends.Wouldn’t that seem like the most reliable source of information?
Well yes, that's one way of looking at it. Then there are some like me who will experiment a bit, due to issues or some more investigationTake my HiCam engine as an example, it runs helish hot, 110C in free air, in the town that will quickly rise, I've seen 130C you probably don’t take it to a dealer for something as simple as an oil change. I’m not implying there’s anything wrong with what your doing what I’m saying is why,if you lack knowledge why would take the word of a bunch of people on a forum or some goof-ball at a dealer over what’s written in the manual. The oil recommended for that bike is 20-50, back in the day when 10-60 was not an option. I'm currently running a 15-50 with a Griso spring in the PRV, as the original partly lifts and robs the bike of much needed pressure. The 15-50 is thinner than a 20-50 for starting and a 10-60, because when I start the bike it will be nearer 20C not 0C.I'll probably end up going to a 10-60 as many HiCam owners do, due to the hot running reducing viscosity and dropping the pressure. I'd prefer to reduce the engine temp and still run my 15-50, if I can and looking into that.All I'm saying is it often isn't as clear cut as it seems and when looking at oils and viscosity the best approach is to actually look at the manufacturer's data for the brand in question. The viscosity can vary quite a bit, brand to brand for the same grades. So unless you're running not only the viscosity rating but the actual recommended brand, you're probably not running exactly what the manufaturer states.In my Ducati 1098 I ran a 15-50 as most people on the forum I was on did too, the 10-40 recommended made the gearbox sound horrible.Each to their own, if sticking to recommended grade is what you want great.However those of us who choose not to are not necessarily idiots and often have very good reason.
I’m not implying there’s anything wrong with what your doing what I’m saying is why,if you lack knowledge why would take the word of a bunch of people on a forum or some goof-ball at a dealer over what’s written in the manual.
Greater viscosity is thicker and has a higher number. Yeah, I though one previous poster wrote the opposite-high viscosity is thinner…. Nope.
I cannot believe I'm still participating in an oil thread, as they all end in tears or the mods erasing them (usually with good reason)
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