Norge oil sensor connection controversy

[brider]

Got the tank and airbox off my '07 Norge and I'm formulating a plan to remove the oil pressure sensor to replace it and address the connector, which seems to be a chronic issue and hopefully get rid of the RToD I keep seeing.

Mine is original and is the nail-head variety. Bought a replacement from MG and it's the straight-spade variety.

Q: Looks like the factory connector on mine is the SAME as any auto-store female electrical spade connector. Why can't I just plug this onto the new straight-spade male end on my new sensor? Pages and pages of discussion here about that connector and splicing in or patching in jumper wires, I don't understand what I'm missing here.

Also: Should the bottom "sump" of my airbox have a frothy reddish (engine oil?) layer of fluid on the bottom? There's a drain port there but something didn't drain.

[Huzo]

I think my ‘07 is the spade variety and I just squeezed the female connector to have a solid grip on the spade.
Then I folded the wire back against the switch and zip tied it in place to stop the connector loosening.
‘Been that way for 60,000 km.

[paulbricey]

Oil on bottom of airbox isn't unusual, starts or gets worse if you run the sump level above 1/2 way.... some will run down the airbox drain (I think you may have to open the drain at the bottom (plug or clip) to empty it...or I may be wrong and it's open to fall)...A small amount is always 'stuck on the floor of the airbox' & you can just clean it off with cloth....... Reason it's red coloured is because ester based synthetic engine oil is red.

[brider]

some will run down the airbox drain (I think you may have to open the drain at the bottom (plug or clip) to empty it...or I may be wrong and it's open to fall)...A small amount is always 'stuck on the floor of the airbox' & you can just clean it off with cloth....... Reason it's red coloured is because ester based synthetic engine oil is red.

AHA! Before I removed the airbox I got down on my back to look up at where the various overflow hoses were going, and saw one that was capped off....I thought that was weird because doesn't the function of an overflow or vent require it to be OPEN? So I'll take another look and trace that capped line back....betcha it's the airbox drain. And yes, Huzo, I'm talking about the inside "sump" of the airbox. I guess if the drain was left open, that's also an intake path into the airbox. Small one, but still.....

And thanks for the confirmation on your spade connection, Huzo, I see that it's not new tech and a good connection is all you need. Lotsa pages devoted to it, though.

[guzzisteve]

2 were capped w/new, IT IS SO YOU PUT A PAN TO DRAIN, no drips on floor. You are to check & drain & it's in the manual I think.

The early oil sender w/post lasts the longest so I make a pigtail w/a red post connector to tiny spade & it will last long time for a few bucks.

Make sure the spades are same size, some wider than plug on bike is tiny.

[brider]

Back to the oil sensor:

I went ahead and ordered a sensor-socket specially necked-down that I HOPE will clear the alt bolt, but here's what it looks like with a standard 21mm socket over it; the alt bolt gets in the way of the socket seating (red arrow), and I assume if I DO get a socket seated, I'd have to snake an extension (with maybe a universal) from the side under the big-ass frame rail (blue arrow)?





Also, what size socket do I need for those tiny "inside" plugs, and how in the heck do you get a socket or even an extension in there?

[Huzo]

Back to the oil sensor:

I went ahead and ordered a sensor-socket specially necked-down that I HOPE will clear the alt bolt, but here's what it looks like with a standard 21mm socket over it; the alt bolt gets in the way of the socket seating (red arrow), and I assume if I DO get a socket seated, I'd have to snake an extension (with maybe a universal) from the side under the big-ass frame rail (blue arrow)?





Also, what size socket do I need for those tiny "inside" plugs, and how in the heck do you get a socket or even an extension in there?

Nup…
Do this.
Take the black alternator belt cover off and back off the adjustment on the alternator belt right hand (throttle grip) side and remove the pinch bolt.
Remove the belt.
Get a new one.
Look at the bolt that the alternator pivots on for adjustment purposes and insert a suitable Allen key in the head that you can see when you look into the drive belt housing.
Get a 15 mm socket on a long extension and remove the nut on the rear end of that bolt.
Remove the pivot bolt.

The alternator will now swing out of the way completely and you can access the oil switch easily.

[Huzo]

Oh, about the inside plugs…
Blow vigorously around them before removal. I took mine out once to replace them and upon removal, I noticed a small stone resting on the precipice, about to fall in…!
The socket size escapes me at the moment, but you need to turn the diameter down to get it in the tunnel.
Put Iridium ones in there and leave them for 40,000 km.

[Pescatore]

These pictures motivate me to replace mine myself.
Does an open end wrench fit on the sensor?

I recall a post from someone who found thin wall socket that fits around the plug.

[blackcat]

"I recall a post from someone who found thin wall socket that fits around the plug."

I just used a cheap socket and ground it down to fit.

The oil sensor on my 07 has never been a problem, a little oil mist around the sensor but that is about it.

[brider]

Nup…
Do this.
Take the black alternator belt cover off and back off the adjustment on the alternator belt right hand (throttle grip) side and remove the pinch bolt.
Remove the belt.
Get a new one.
Look at the bolt that the alternator pivots on for adjustment purposes and insert a suitable Allen key in the head that you can see when you look into the drive belt housing.
Get a 15 mm socket on a long extension and remove the nut on the rear end of that bolt.
Remove the pivot bolt.

The alternator will now swing out of the way completely and you can access the oil switch easily.

I ASSUME all this should be done with the wraparound-fairing removed? I just took a look and I don't see how in the holy hell you can access anything on the front of the engine without the fairing removed. LOOKS like just a few bolts/screws and then whatever harnesses are plugged into the headlight nacelle as you try to move the fairing assy forward.....looks like a 2-man job to avoid dropping a corner and cracking something.....

I tried a test-fit on that sensor with the wrong (not 21mm, need to buy one) box-end wrench, and in my case there's room for that and a little swing, hoping a ratcheting wrench will do the trick.

[Huzo]

On the occasions that I’ve done mine, I have not removed the fairing, but I do admit I’ve had it on the lift, which makes it easier.
There was once I did an oil switch while I was doing a full service and the bike was in this state.


With the forks out it’s much easier, but I’ve done it with them in as well.
With the forks in, you need to undo the top bolt holding the oil cooler and it will lift off its mountings and swing away. That makes getting the bolts out of the alternator belt cover accessible.

[cappisj1]

It’s been a while but I really think I got to mine by taking tank off and then the airbox. I went between the cylinders from the back. It is a tight tedious job. Like one click from the ratchet at a time.  If you have time and energy then removing the alternator and replacing the belt at the same time would make access much easier. I guess if you think it’s time to change the belt I would do it the way Huzo says by way of the alt.

Oh, I bought the inside plug socket from MG Cycle.

[brider]

Update:

Replaced the oil sensor with the part from MG with the vertical spade instead of OEM nail-head (used an open-end wrench and a million fractional turns to get it loose, then it spun off), and I also pulled the inner plugs to look at them and apply anti-seize to the threads.

RToD still came on when I turned on the key (after re-installing the dash) . What's up with that? Do I need to go into the diagnostic menu and input that 25XXX code and clear codes? I thought the new sensor would make the RToD go away. I crimped the connector so it was really difficult to jamb on, figured that HAD to make a good connection.

[Pescatore]

Update:

.....I also pulled the inner plugs to look at them and apply anti-seize to the threads.

How did you unscrew them? MG Cycle tool?  Filed down a socket?

[brider]

How did you unscrew them? MG Cycle tool?  Filed down a socket?

Bought the MG tool. They were not frozen and turned out without any drama.

But back to the RToD: Upon turning the key on and the christmas-tree going thru it's routine, It settled down to the smaller red triangle on the top row (next to the friendly green neutral light) and the big red SERVICE! triangle below. This was after I changed the sensor. THEN, I went into the diagnostic menu, entered the 25XXX code and cleared out all stored codes, backed out, shut the key off, turned it on, and the big angry red SERVICE! triangle is gone, but the red one on top is still there. It's been so long since I actually rode this bike I don't remember; does the red one on top go out once the engine starts (can't do that yet until I put the sump back on)?