Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: jjoking on March 24, 2019, 08:21:23 AM
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Good day, 1st post here and thanks for the venue!
A week ago I was doing some at speed panic stops on my 76 Convert after the rebuild in my rear brake master brake cylinder. All went well with the great brake performance, but on the return trip I was feeling like a more spirited ride and accelerated to a little over 90mph. At that pint I lost all forward power and did a very long coast to a stop, engine idling, running well. A friend rescued the Guzzi and me on his trailer and brought us home. I had originally assumed the hex shaft/atf pump had failed and in the next day or so pulled the front timing cover to find all was well. Oh well, I thought, I cleaned all of it and buttoned it back up. New gaskets on the cover & sumptuously , oil filter as well. So yesterday I turned the gas back on...hit the starter, and the starter spun, freely without turning the crankshaft to start it.
I hadn’t tried to start the Guzzi previously after being hauled home as I had the thought of the hex shaft issue on my mind as the problem.
Anyway now it looks like I am pulling the trans/bell housing/motor from the frame to find a failed early stamped flywheel!
Also when the Convert lost power, no racket/bad noises of any kind were heard. I can freely /smoothly turn the flywheel thru the timing inspection hole with a screwdriver, so am assuming the flywheel inner mounting flange has separated with a clean break???
Any input would be helpful and thanks again for the forum!
jjoking
(https://i.ibb.co/3pRRkMR/2876-A180-3-D9-A-4-A8-A-BE0-C-B4-B20417-AE09.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3pRRkMR)
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More info on the Convert 1976
Very low mileage unit 9,000 original miles
Sat in a museum for close to 40 years
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Your diagnosis sounds spot on. Sorry about that. Finding a new flywheel might be a challenge.
I can freely /smoothly turn the flywheel. Assume the crank not turning when you do that?
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Correct! Crank is not turning...what puzzles me is that when I rotate the flywheel manually, it is so smooth.
I just didn’t thing that if the flywheel center flange had let go it would have a smooth break. I guess maybe the assembly may have moved to the rear enough to be off the break? I soon will know about it for sure
When it is pulled down & apart
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That is a little puzzle, let us know with pics if possible.
Are you aware of the yahoo group MGconvert? Join here,
mailto:mgconvert-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
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I'm by no means an expert on the convert, but I've been researching them as I'm considering buying one. Seems that some of them came with a pressed steel flywheel. they are known to fail in the exact manner you're describing, and the recommendation is to swap out to a cast-iron one. From what I understand, they are hard to come by but not unobtainable.
Not for nothing, but taking a 40-year museum piece and beating on it might not be the best course of action. Beautiful Bike by the way.
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My history with this, my 2nd Convert has been measured
Short 50 mile or so rides over the past 6 months, varying speeds with
A max of 73 mph checking the speedo with GPS speed
Readings...amazingl y accurate within 2-3 mph.
So with less than 10 of those 50 mile rides and confidence growing in the bike/reliability, that one nice
Late winter/early cool spring morning 😎 I upped the throttle that one time with 90 mph being the max!
It was the max alright...that’s when the low mileage old girl let go. Anyway after many Guzzis owned in the last
40 yrs, it’s the first time I had ever been hauled home
For a 90mph ride...so I guess, I will take it like a man
And just accept a “Shame on me” for it!
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They show up on eBay, in late February a used heavy flywheel sold for just over $100 and $13 shipping. Maybe call Harper's? Are you on the Convert Yahoo Group? Maybe someone in the group has a spare to sell.
Mark is selling a good early version, these can be modified (reinforced) so they're reliable. Here is a link.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Moto-guzzi-parts-convert-flywheel-ring-gear/222252378610?hash=item33bf4629f2:g:x8MAAOSwNRdX3FlG
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Thanks for the info...I had seen this on eBay
Also a couple from Germany for approx $160
For a later model heavy flywheel.
Will call Curtis @ Harpers tomorrow to see what he might
Have available. I’m in no hurry, haven’t disassembled it yet
But will do so soon. Then will know for sure about what I am dealing with.
So tomorrow I am going fishing! Relax and contimplate on the next convert project issue at hand.
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:popcorn: Welcome to the club(club of broken Guzzi')--what your guessin is just what happened to it!!! One of mine(I have 3)did that 80 miles after I brought it home! You can weld it if it's not all buggered up,make sure it;s balanced well :thumb: When replacing the torque converter be religious about alignment,if not it will vibrate like an old EV :boozing:
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Thanks for the info!
I have my dial indicator all ready to get the Converter
Spot on @ assembly.
A smooth ride will had by all
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I sent Mr. King to this list when he called me wanting info. Thanks to y'all for helping a fellow East Texas Guzzi rider.
Tex
Nothing beats a goodnight kiss...unless you are in prison.
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👋 Tex!
Good quote on the goodnite kiss... although the prison angle gave me a bit of a chill!!!!
Thanks again!
JK
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Aldo: How many miles on your Convert when the flywheel failed? What is your best guess on the speed (or RPM) when the failure occurred?
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Aldo: How many miles on your Convert when the flywheel failed? What is your best guess on the speed (or RPM) when the failure occurred?
Mine has just over 17300 miles...I bought it with just over 17000 last month. I knew what I was getting into and that's why I ended up getting a spare flywheel. It's original and a very nice example. Not sure the RPM range at the time it occurred, but was in High gear and about 40 mph or so when I felt it let go. No real banging noises, just sudden loss of drive, so I just coasted to the side of the road and into a parking lot.
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Hey 👋
Thanks so much for the pics, sorry about your issue as well. Mine was spooled up and pulling hard @ just over 90 mph when it let go.
Also am puzzled as to why mine turns so smooth with out noise when I turn it.
It sure seems like I should be hearing scraping going on. I guess I will know when I get it apart!
Thanks again
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Mine has just over 17300 miles...I bought it with just over 17000 last month.
Been there, done that, too, on a '76, and it failed somewhere in the 17,000-range, highway speed, no other grinding or crunching, as the OP reported.
I don't recall trying to spin the flywheel thru the inspection window, and the lack of "grinding" noise in this case IS puzzling.
I went the reinforced sheet-metal route because I couldn't find the later version. Simple reinforcement, an after installing it and ensuring proper runout, it worked like a charm for many more miles until I sold it.
I am MORE amazed that you got to 90 mph on that thing. Must've been with no fairing.
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I'm by no means an expert on the convert, but I've been researching them as I'm considering buying one. Seems that some of them came with a pressed steel flywheel. they are known to fail in the exact manner you're describing, and the recommendation is to swap out to a cast-iron one. From what I understand, they are hard to come by but not unobtainable.
Not for nothing, but taking a 40-year museum piece and beating on it might not be the best course of action. Beautiful Bike by the way.
Rubbish. I have the "Worlds Fastest Guzzi Automatic" (TM) and it has been clocked at 114 at El Mirage dry lake by the SCTA. When I have it in street trim, I am always checking the top speed, it gets the stick, a lot. The old sheet metal flywheels fatigue, no telling when they will let go. It could just as easily be due to low RPM running as high. I have had one sheet metal flywheel fail, that was years ago, and I can't remember the circumstances.
For my current automatic, I have a heavy flywheel that I had lightened. Never thought much of having a light one welded up to reinforce it, I suppose if you had it trued afterwards it would be OK. I'd be concerned about distortion due to welding. It is hard enough to indicate the torque converter boss to within +/- .001" with an un-welded one.
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Happened to me last week, this is probably what it will look like once you open it up. I have a spare stamped one in good shape that I am going to have reinforced on both sides by a good welder. My torque converter has a little nub at the end; seems as though a small tip of that nub broke off in the end of the crank. Don't think its a big issue and it doesn't look like there is any other damage, so I plan to button it back up once I get my flywheel done up....
(https://i.ibb.co/VwxrNfW/IMG-20190324-110719037.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VwxrNfW)
(https://i.ibb.co/sVfXjJb/IMG-20190324-110706239.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sVfXjJb)
(https://i.ibb.co/p2mp44t/IMG-20190324-110653828.jpg) (https://ibb.co/p2mp44t)
(https://i.ibb.co/kxDpy0d/IMG-20190324-105842799.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kxDpy0d)
(https://i.ibb.co/5xjqYN2/IMG-20190324-105831429.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5xjqYN2)
I would be real concerned about that missing nub. It locates the flywheel, and it will wag more without it. It is broken either due to your flywheel breaking, or it being broken was the cause of your flywheel breaking. Either way, I'd get a new torque converter.
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I know this is an old OLD thread, but as its exactly where Im at.....bringing back a 76 Convert after a few years of indoor non-use. probably my 20th Guzzi but 1st Convert. Going to check into this flywheel issue and if I have a stamped one, I'll start the search for a cast, but it has occurred to me, what about the torque converter? Is this an easily obtainable item that crossed over into the automotive world, or will I live in fear of the last Sachs unit in North America fragmenting?
thank you.
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Good day, 1st post here and thanks for the venue!
A week ago I was doing some at speed panic stops on my 76 Convert after the rebuild in my rear brake master brake cylinder. All went well with the great brake performance, but on the return trip I was feeling like a more spirited ride and accelerated to a little over 90mph. At that pint I lost all forward power and did a very long coast to a stop, engine idling, running well. A friend rescued the Guzzi and me on his trailer and brought us home. I had originally assumed the hex shaft/atf pump had failed and in the next day or so pulled the front timing cover to find all was well. Oh well, I thought, I cleaned all of it and buttoned it back up. New gaskets on the cover & sumptuously , oil filter as well. So yesterday I turned the gas back on...hit the starter, and the starter spun, freely without turning the crankshaft to start it.
I hadn’t tried to start the Guzzi previously after being hauled home as I had the thought of the hex shaft issue on my mind as the problem.
Anyway now it looks like I am pulling the trans/bell housing/motor from the frame to find a failed early stamped flywheel!
Also when the Convert lost power, no racket/bad noises of any kind were heard. I can freely /smoothly turn the flywheel thru the timing inspection hole with a screwdriver, so am assuming the flywheel inner mounting flange has separated with a clean break???
Any input would be helpful and thanks again for the forum!
jjoking
(https://i.ibb.co/3pRRkMR/2876-A180-3-D9-A-4-A8-A-BE0-C-B4-B20417-AE09.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3pRRkMR)
Hey, Thats my Convert in the photo! Yep, I purchased it from Mr. King. Im very happy he sorted the flywheel issue before I got it. :bow:
Rick.
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P.S. they will run 90 as long as your butt can take it! :bike-037:
Low range tops out at 80 and it’s still not at a redline. They are quite happy at 40-65 with that higher rpm. I loved lo range for everything but interstate and drove two of them for 135,000 miles.
You could keep a bit of throttle on while foot linked braking and when you wanted to accelerate release the foot brake. Made for a really smooth transition, less diving front end hobby horse style and more squatting evenly front and rear. Mine had two different frictions for the pads, while some had a proportioning valve. Fantastic set up.
Pretty easy to crab the frame and yank the transmission…altho having the motor out and pointing nose down does make it easier to adjust the run out when reseating the torque converter
Patience and as little runout as possible makes them really smooth
At this point a non running convert with the right flywheel, and likely a working torque converter, might be the way to go. Instant spare parts that you might find for cheap.
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P.S. they will run 90 as long as your butt can take it! :bike-037:
Low range tops out at 80 and it’s still not at a redline. They are quite happy at 40-65 with that higher rpm. I loved lo range for everything but interstate and drove two of them for 135,000 miles.
You could keep a bit of throttle on while foot linked braking and when you wanted to accelerate release the foot brake. Made for a really smooth transition, less diving front end hobby horse style and more squatting evenly front and rear. Mine had two different frictions for the pads, while some had a proportioning valve. Fantastic set up.
Pretty easy to crab the frame and yank the transmission…altho having the motor out and pointing nose down does make it easier to adjust the run out when reseating the torque converter
Patience and as little runout as possible makes them really smooth
At this point a non running convert with the right flywheel, and likely a working torque converter, might be the way to go. Instant spare parts that you might find for cheap.
What is the 'redline' on the V1000 motor? I often keep the Vert in Low gear and will run up to 60-70, and the motor sounds and feels great, sounds like 5500-6600 rpm, but without a tach, and not knowing the redline I don't want to push it.
I have 43K on mine (also a 76) and AFAIK is the original flywheel and hex drive. I do have a spare stamped and machined flywheel. Evidently the increased mass of the heavier flywheel effects engine response?
Love how different the riding experience is on the convert than any other bike I've owned. It whispers 'slow down and enjoy the scenery'
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I’d guess redline would be the same as an G5, maybe SP. Same motor.
With the vert “gearing”, it’s as if you’ve mounted a really large rear sprocket to accommodate the fluid drive. Quick off the line, but it doesn’t tap into the full potential of top speed of the motor. It does leave it spinning just a notch or two below redline, right where the power is. For comparison i believe the top speeds are the same for a Vert as a G5.
You can hold the throttle wide open, but it doesn’t get to redline while pushing the beast down the road against friction and wind. I suppose you could change the rear drive gears but then your into the 20 spline vs 10 spline driveshaft issue
A low range vert on full throttle above 60 will surprise you getting to 80, (then stops accelerating) if you can bear the sounds like it’s about to blow up…nah, there’s probably another 1500-2000 rpm left unused. If there’s any motor that can take the abuse it’s those
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Just for kicks heres my EVert with the re enforced light flywheel start up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gow4iwqwLJc
(https://photos.smugmug.com/EVert-project/i-B3gB9Kz/0/612b49eb/Th/DSCN1581-Th.jpg) (https://fotoguzzi.smugmug.com/EVert-project/i-B3gB9Kz/A) (https://photos.smugmug.com/EVert-project/i-c392DqV/0/523582fd/Th/DSCN2131-Th.jpg) (https://fotoguzzi.smugmug.com/EVert-project/i-c392DqV/A)
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I’d guess redline would be the same as an G5, maybe SP. Same motor.
With the vert “gearing”, it’s as if you’ve mounted a really large rear sprocket to accommodate the fluid drive. Quick off the line, but it doesn’t tap into the full potential of top speed of the motor. It does leave it spinning just a notch or two below redline, right where the power is. For comparison i believe the top speeds are the same for a Vert as a G5.
You can hold the throttle wide open, but it doesn’t get to redline while pushing the beast down the road against friction and wind. I suppose you could change the rear drive gears but then your into the 20 spline vs 10 spline driveshaft issue
A low range vert on full throttle above 60 will surprise you getting to 80, (then stops accelerating) if you can bear the sounds like it’s about to blow up…nah, there’s probably another 1500-2000 rpm left unused. If there’s any motor that can take the abuse it’s those
All understood, but I don’t know what the redline of a G5 is, or where the Convert is at 70 in low gear relative to redline.
The Convert makes speed surprisingly fast. Hold the break bring up revs, release brake and full on throttle and you are at 80 before to can take two breaths. Even in high gear it makes highway speeds fast and effortlessly.
I’m looking for hard data on redline for the motor and where that is relative to high and low gear. UNLIKELY you can hit redline in high range, but Low is a possibility. At 70 in low the motor sounds sublime, and the balance of intake/exhaust/gear whine is pretty intoxicating BUT not knowing If too close to the safe edge for the motor, I rarely go there.
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(https://i.ibb.co/KjNs0Qc/CC263-EF8-4-BEC-42-A9-80-D8-507-CDDD10294.jpg) (https://ibb.co/KjNs0Qc)
Looks like 7800.
11 seconds to 70mph
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Cycle Test magazine, March 76
(https://i.ibb.co/9N8TLFF/8311-D52-F-EA85-46-E9-88-F2-5717416-FE1-CA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9N8TLFF)
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@Bulldog.
I had the first G5 5 speed that was imported into the U.S. that i purchased from Charlie Pinheiro.
Red line was about 6400 RPM in 5th gear indicating 105-TO 110 MPH.
Because of the Covvert torque converter this is how i would compare the RPM.
The Convert is assumed to operate 500-750 rpm lower at any speed soooooooo, FYI I have the heavier flywheel, Starter teeth are machined directly into the flywheel
My convert at 65 MPH on the Convert in high range would be 2800 rpm to 3200 rpm
G5 (same bike) with a 5 speed 3200rpm 3400 rpm
Those numbers are subjective.
I rarely use low range for my riding, BUT consider this
Since the engine operates at lower RPM's so does the charging system so depending what you have on lights radio in high range (in Town) you would not have much output from the alternator riding around in town in HighRidge SO LOW RANGE IS PERFERRED.
I overcame that problem by installing an adjustable voltage regulator PROBLEM SOLVED and ride in Hi range 99% of the time.
Limit shifting on the go as the transmission is really not designed for that.
Others may chime in
(https://i.ibb.co/nMW6dKp/TOMS-CONVERT.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nMW6dKp)
(https://i.ibb.co/SNjQqjK/20210608-165405.jpg) (https://ibb.co/SNjQqjK)
TOMB
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@Bulldog.
I had the first G5 that was inported into the U.S. that i purchased from Charlie Pinheiro.
Red line was about 6400 RPM in 5th gear indicating 105-TO 110 MPH.
Because of the torque converter this is how i would compare the RPM.
The Convert is assumed to operate 500-750 rpm lower at any speed soooooooo, FYI I have the heavier flywheel, Starter teeth are machined directly into the flywheel
My convert at 65 MPH on the Convert in high range would be 2800 rpm to 3200 rpm
G5 (same bike) with a 5 speed 3200rpm 3400 rpm
Those numbers are subjective.
I rarely use low range for my riding, BUT consider this
Since the engine operates at lower RPM's so does the charging system so depending what you have on lights radio in high range (in Town) you would not have much output from the alternator riding around in town in HighRidge SO LOW RANGE IS PERFERRED.
I overcame that problem by installing an adjustable voltage regulator PROBLEM SOLVED and ride in Hi range 99% of the time.
Limit shifting on the go as the transmission is really not designed for that.
Others may chime in
(https://i.ibb.co/nMW6dKp/TOMS-CONVERT.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nMW6dKp)
(https://i.ibb.co/SNjQqjK/20210608-165405.jpg) (https://ibb.co/SNjQqjK)
TOMB
Great info, thanks.
I generally leave the bike in low as 90% of my riding is below highway speeds. Changing between high and low only at stop, but rolling at 5-10 with clutch engaged is fluid smooth. Hope to get some riding in soon if weather cooperates
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I am very sorry for being thick...I understand all about the danger of stamped steel time bomb flywheels vs machined units. I just dragged my new to me 77 Convert home, most recently licensed and on the road in 2019 so perhaps it has had an upgraded flywheel installed. My question is,.......how can I, a rank convert amateur, tell which I have through that tiny timing hole?
I just don't know what Im looking at, Im sure its simple and I will get it immediately with your help.
Thank you
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I thought one of the Convert flywheel threads had pics of the difference looking in the timing hole on side of trans. You get a better look if you take the starter back out of hole on LH side.
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good thinking, thank you
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I am very sorry for being thick...I understand all about the danger of stamped steel time bomb flywheels vs machined units. I just dragged my new to me 77 Convert home, most recently licensed and on the road in 2019 so perhaps it has had an upgraded flywheel installed. My question is,.......how can I, a rank convert amateur, tell which I have through that tiny timing hole?
I just don't know what Im looking at, Im sure its simple and I will get it immediately with your help.
Thank you
Charlie is the expert and may be along, bit I THINK the 76 was the last year with a stamped unit. I have a 76 with the stamped am at 45K miles. To my (owned 3 years) and the PO's (owned 15 years) knowledge it was never changed.
According to Guzziology and Dave richardson, the issue of stamped plates tearing was alignment. As the theory goes some were not assembled in proper alignment and the constant push and pull of the flywheel on the center Mount point of the plate would eventually weaken the stamped steel and cause it to tear.
There have evidently been and I'm hoping mine is one that is properly aligned and seem to last forever.
If you pry open the little rubber port cover on the right side of the motor near the flywheel housing you can look in with a flashlight. The stamped unit has a curved front and the machined is squared off. I was able to determine mine was stamped by being able to scratch it with a screwdriver.
I sourced a second stamped unit and also a machine unit. They are on the shelf just in case. My machined is the two part unit with a separate ring gear from the plate.
I bought mine on eBay from I think Guzzi classics in California.
So far I've put about 6,000 mi on my convert since refreshing it and putting it on the road. I do not plan to mess with the x drive or the drive plate until there's a problem.
I monitor my AT fluid temperature and smell and everything seems to be fine. I've considered mounting an inline pressure gauge to keep an eye on the actual pressure of the pump.
From what I understand, the AT fluid that is circulated through the torque converter does nothing more than pump fluid through the torque converter and front mounted oil cooler and tank to keep the fluid cool.
I changed the fluid and also pulled the tank to clean the tank out and screen. It was spotless and fluid was clean despite mostly sitting for 15 years. The PO only rode it on rare occasions and to let visiting MC buddies ride. Was one of those and the thing got under my skin. I bought it a year later, did a refresh with new fluids, brake pads, wiring harness, removing the Better fairing, new tires, solo seat and rear MC in 2020 during - lockdowns and telework, and did a repaint last summer.
I recently added an OEM Guzzi windscreen and next up is swapping the brake lines for SS units I got from MG Cycle. I may also swap out the wonky stock HB switches. I also want to try heavier fork oil as it is a bit soft for my likes, and has bottomed a couple times.
I've taken it as far as 250 miles on a day trip, hope to ride to the KY Guzzi Rally next year.
Is a special and different ride. I mostly love it. The only real issue for me is not being able to clamp on the tank with my knees. 40+ years of riding and this is the first bike that when I try to clamp my knees they are above the trailing edge of the tank and instead of giving stability and locking knees and feet to the pegs thus providing stability, my feet are lifted. This makes me feel more insecure on the bike. It's not a problem, because it is just part of the bikes character that says 'slow down and enjoy the magic carpet ride'
The Convert is a keeper and will eventually gain a side car when I have a garage situation that will support the size and maneuver requirements.
(https://i.ibb.co/wgZdVPq/img-4-1672459019445.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wgZdVPq)
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I have a couple of the stamped light flywheels and ring gears, does anyone need one?
They can be strengthened by brazing the center section, braze not weld so the plate won’t distort from heat.
It will need to be balanced tho.
(https://i.ibb.co/yY0Ygvk/C7-C0-B57-E-22-D2-4713-BB01-3-A877-CFC6560.jpg) (https://ibb.co/yY0Ygvk)
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Bulldog…re your forks and fluid. The atf fluid spec for the front forks is for lubrication only. Changing the oil won’t change the action from the forks
FAC dampers with Progressive or Wirth springs was/is a common upgrade. But….it’s likely you’ll be supplied the G5 spec pieces, which add an additional inch between triple clamp and axle. From Guzziology, the two part G5 springs are also a decent upgrade vs the Wirth or FAC, cost wise.
The original Convert had a lower nose to the ground than the later G5. Unfortunately the longer forks renders the centerstand unusable as the rear wheel won’t get off the ground. If you raise the forks in the clamps a bit at a time, you’ll find a spot where the rear wheel will clear the ground while spinning at idle…1/4-3/8-1/2” your choice. At the same time the steering quickens…
I installed the FAC dampners w G5 springs. It loved to be heavily laden and seemed to move like a graceful dancing hippo…! Alas my knees hips and legs can’t hold the weight anymore or i would definitely have one
I followed TOMB, and Dr Dave, Guzziology on all of this..great ride!
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The following pic are from an early Convert (considered to be a prototype).
The first picture shows standoffs for a windage tray
The end of the camshaft doesn't use a drive pi but a slot the matches the slot in the end of the camshaft.
A solod machined Aluminum clutch basket.
And a transmission stamped serial number #1 the Engine is serial #8 Rumer has it that 15-20 bikes were bought in for testing with the Police.
The starter ring is welded directly to the torque converter and the flywheel is stamped.
The bike is now running with a 5 speed. Owner plans to change back to the Convert setup.
Bike came into the US for the police to test out. Owner Has paperwork to verify the history.
(https://i.ibb.co/J5msH5m/20180606-124304.jpg) (https://ibb.co/J5msH5m)
(https://i.ibb.co/F03xh4r/20180626-152445.jpg) (https://ibb.co/F03xh4r)
(https://i.ibb.co/Pjx9tyW/20180627-121241.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Pjx9tyW)
(https://i.ibb.co/6WXCnTj/20180627-121923.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6WXCnTj)
(https://i.ibb.co/hxGXnPG/20180627-123023.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hxGXnPG)
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(https://i.ibb.co/KjNs0Qc/CC263-EF8-4-BEC-42-A9-80-D8-507-CDDD10294.jpg) (https://ibb.co/KjNs0Qc)
Looks like 7800.
11 seconds to 70mph
Being a Convert owner for many years, I couldn't help but chime in.
Chuck's post after this one shows a Cycle Test article that states a "1:1 lockup", but that never occurs on the Convert, the manual entry cited above states it clearly as the Converter ratio, 1.60:1 max. Not sure how that 2nd gear ratio of 4.58 compares to a G5 or any other 5-sp 5th gear, but I'm pretty sure with the 1.60:1 "slip", the Convert is going to spin faster at top speed than a G5. And I don't know how you guys can stand screaming down a suburban street at 50 mph or highway @ 60-70 in 1st gear. That engine speed is great if you have another gear to grab, but just staying there statically with very little load on the engine sounds awful to me.
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You don’t have to…I won’t make you…I understand you feel like it hurts the bike
But….I’ve often rolled to full throttle in low range on a Vert at 45-50 taking it up and down to 75…It turns into a different character..maybe it’s the two laners we have in New England where I could go for days without touching interstate ….
I’d invite anyone with a Vert to check it out…
Or not…