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First question---When I did the clutch I know I didn't use an alignment tool, or any special tool to re-assemble. I want to take the clutch off to check the rear main seal. Any thoughts??? Second question--Less than a year ago I replaced a seal around the primary drive shaft on a Roadstar. Same concept. I put two screws in it(carefully of course) grabbed them with vice grips and puled it out. Popped the new one in with a little oil and a piece of PVC pipe the same size as the seal. Worked great. Anyone know a reason this won't work on this application??? I haven't gotton the clutch off yet to see the seal so I might just be getting ahead of myself at this point...Thanks to all in advance.....
You really should use a tool to align the plates and compress the clutch springs. The clutch hub with a suitable spacer, bolt and washer will work just fine. I would recommend replacing more than just the rear crankshaft seal - it might be the only thing not leaking. I'd also replace the rear main bearing flange gasket (making sure to seal the threads of the two lower bolts that are below oil level), the breather pipe gasket, the oil return line crush washers and JB Weld the cam plug. On the transmission, at a minimum, you'll want to replace the input and output shaft seals, plus the clutch hub o-rings and clutch pushrod seals. I can send you a set of six "special" o-rings for the clutch pushrod for free.
Appreciated!!! Is there a PM on this site so I can send you my info??
My big question is whether to put new pistons and cylinders on it. Compression is good, but they are original.
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