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You can remove the pistons with the rods still bolted to the crank. Many ways to do it, from "reasonably" force tapping them out with a socket to a wrist pin tool. I have always "carefully" tapped them out with a socket and "lightish" hammer.Tom
What happened to Gilardoni?
You can remove the pistons with the rods still bolted to the crank. Many ways to do it, from "reasonably" force tapping them out with a socket to a wrist pin tool. I have always "carefully" tapped them out with a socket and "lightish" hammer.Always wanted to get a wrist pin puller like from the old days. A round band and a screw like shown in the manual, don't seem to be available anymore.
When I did my V7 Sport cylinders, I was really broke and couldnít afford issues. But I had trouble with at least 2 head gasket failures. So I extended the time between stages of torquing head bolts from 10-15 min to a few hours. It made a big difference in how much more gain I produced with each stage of torquing. Then I rechecked torque after getting engine to temp and cool-down. No more failures.The other advice btdt I would offer is to err on the side of caution if you see any significant chrome flaking-related damage in the bottom end. These cranks are originally nitrided or surface hardened, so the journals should have no surface imperfections. If any chrome is embedded in the bearing shells or there are any noteworthy lines in their surface, know that the debris which produced them had to pass through the oil pump to reach the crank bearing to make the damage..Ö. Having that stuff embedded in the walls of the oil pump to come loose later can negate whatever casual cleaning you do at this point. Having to turn the crank and lots more later is not cool.I never checked my rod bearings or anything else when I did my cylinders. Being new to Guzzi, I had no idea and no one available & familiar with the chrome bore issues at that time to advise me otherwise. Back then, many people still werenít convinced it was as big a problem because their bikes were still just fine. It was still a ďcan failĒ issue vs the ďwill failĒ issue it is now. Using the original pistons has much to do with the condition of the lands between the piston rings. If there is evidence of fatigue, thatís where problems can easily occur. I removed and installed pistons with rods still installed in engine. Not difficult. As noted, gentle heat makes it simple. Hopefully things will look good inside your engine. But if they donít, they wonít heal. Like Charlie said, it becomes really $$$$ to replace everything in there after the fact.
Whatís the recommended torque on those?
Ok grabbed the right socket and got those 26mm caps off... but having a bit of a struggle with the 10mm hex bolts underneath. Could not get enough leverage on my good Allen wrench and don't want to strip them (nightmare!) so will get a 10mm hex socket and give it a shot tomorrow. Other than that, any tips on loosening those?And yeah Charlie, meant the heads... thank you!!
Itís dry under those caps. When doing a head retorque I give a shot of WD40 down into the hex nut so my socket doesnít get stuck down there. I know youíre removing the heads, but for future reference.
I know this isnít the result you wanted but this is why we rang the bell in no uncertain terms. I am really glad you didnít just decide we all needed to shut up and left the forum to ride in peace. That peace wouldnít have lasted long.As far as how far to go inspecting your engine, thatís one of those personal decisions & judgment calls that youíll have to make. I was completely ignorant about looking into the rest of my engine- I just swapped cylinders & pistons and hit the road. So I paid the FULL price- literally and figuratively. You can check things and if nothing is bad, costs in parts, gaskets and seals wonít be that much. The time spent off the road is always a drag. But you may be happier in the long run knowing that all those 50 yr old seals and such are not going to be a never-ending source of aggravating new leaks when you can least afford to deal with them. Youíll also know your bike much better and thatís never a bad thing.Hang in there.Edit- meant to add with the chrome loss being at the top of cylinder and generally above the rings, the majority of lost chrome probably went out through the exhaust. Itís tougher for it to migrate past the rings and into the bottom end without leaving some obvious damage to pistons, walls, etc. Losses at or below the cylinder wall area where the rings travel are the real danger to the rest of the engine.
If that bike was in my shop, and I opened it up and found the cylinder in that condition, it would get a complete engine rebuild. Lots of chrome has been scraped into the oil and the only way to clean it all out is by tearing it down completely. No good news to add at the end., sorry.
We'll see. But as was said, it was at the top... and no sign of it scraping past the rings... so how could it be in the oil?I'll see what the other one looks like. A complete rebuild is likely beyond my ability and nowhere nearby to do it.In addition to the cyls and piston rings, which Millennium is handling... It would be main and rod bearings, check cam and crank for damage. Anything else?
In the fourth photo, it appears that the chrome is worn thin about half the way down the cylinder, what I call a "starry night". Lots of light colored specks showing though the darker surface. All of that chrome would have gone into the oil. As was mention by guzzisteve, check the oil pump for damage too.
As far as how far to go inspecting your engine, thatís one of those personal decisions & judgment calls that youíll have to make. I was completely ignorant about looking into the rest of my engine- I just swapped cylinders & pistons and hit the road. So I paid the FULL price- literally and figuratively. You can check things and if nothing is bad, costs in parts, gaskets and seals wonít be that much.
So I guess I keep disassembling and hope I can get it back together. If I can't I'll ship it all to you in Maryland, lol.
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