New 20 ounce tumblers available now! Forum donation credit with purchase. https://www.wildguzzi.com/Products/products.htm#Tumbler
Do you have a shop manual? https://www.thisoldtractor.com/mg_manuals/workshop_manual_v7sport_750s_850t.pdfPiston specs are on (pdf) page 21 of 135, paper manual page 19. The drawings of how to measure and dimensions is on 98 & 99 of 135.
Harpers has V7 Sport ring sets in stock, worth fitting new rings if your going all in with the Nikasil coating. https://www.harpermoto.com/deves-piston-rings-for-v7-sport-mc151.htmlMG Cycle has the gudgeon pin circlips, they should always be replaced when a piston is removed from a conrod.https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=68_129&products_id=1345
Thanks... was thinking I'd do new rings... then broke one removing it so... yup.I shot Millennium an email to see if they have them or if I should source elsewhere... and will grab a set if so. Do you know if that set you linked to is for both cylinders? I see these for only one:https://www.dlastore.com/e_store/piston-ring-set-for-moto-guzzi-v7-sport-750cc-motorcycle-82-5mm.htmlhttps://www.stein-dinse.biz/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=177950https://moto-renzo.biz/Tecnical-Goods/Engine-Spare-Parts/cylinder-piston-rings/Piston-Rings-V7-Sport.html?language=enAny better or worse than the other?Thanks!!
And on pages 98&99... excuse my ignorance, which measurement might be the right one? None seem to be right if I'm reading it correctly, which I am definitely not.Basically. how wide should each of the ring channels be?
That is what it is showing. 2.03 is min, 2.05 is max. Edit:If you don't know.. there is a ring expander for use in removing rings. Hopefully you didn't scratch the pistons taking them off (and breaking one).
Winced (literally) when I saw the picture. Those are pretty serious stress risers.. Here is my antique (naturally) Spring deringer.as you close the handles, the jaws close..then as you continue squeezing it spreads the ends of the ring apart so you can just lift it off the piston.
I went back over them and they look worse in the pics than in person or how they feel... can't feel them at all or get a finger nail to catch... so hoping its ok.Can I borrow that tool... YESTERDAY!!??
Ok now that the cylinders and pistons are shipped off... I guess I need to remove the motor next. Any step by step guides out there?In the manual this is all it says, lol:By means of the wrench n. 14927700 (32 i n fig . 6) undo the lockrings of exhaust pipes on cylinder heads and after loosening the screws fixing silencers to frame remove the exhaust pipe-silencer assemblies.Place part n. 14912400 (10 in fig. 7) under the engine oil sump: remove the rods from rear brake and gear- shift levers; remove the cable from the crutch controllever on the gearbox; disconnect all electric wirings; then slide off the engine-gearbox unit from the after undoing all fixing devices.After removing the engine-gearbox from the frame, wash it down thoroughly In petrol before separating the engine unit from the gearbox.Soooo... do I need that tool/thing to hold the bottom of the motor? Right now its on a hydraulic jack but that device looks more stable.Also... once the engine/gearbox is disconnected from the frame, electronics, etc... I assume lifting the rest of the bike off it is the only way to get it out?For those of you at home the have done this... HOW??? lol.Thanks!!
This may beyond what I am able to do... we'll see.Also... at this point the rear of the engine is accessible... but how would you remove it? I'd have to use a hoist to raise the frame? But then why use the crabbing method at all?
What Cam said !!!!
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