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Alternator bracket that Grandpaul was asking about.
I need to look in the/a book/manual to find out what jet goes where.Normally the jets only go in one location, so I never really think about it.I know I should instantly know what jet is what, but I am lazy.
The larger jet (145 stock) goes in the brass jet holder, the smaller one (45 stock) goes into the carb body directly.
Are there oil seals behind those gears that I should change?My main focus was the transmission as I think I have all the parts in house to wrap it up.It is also a smaller and more manageable evening job in my eyes.One thing I have never seen before is ALL the leaking oil seals.It seems that every seal on the bike is dry, hard and weeping. Everything looks installed correctly and I see no signs of damage.Just leaking seals.Here is the transmission.Even the O-Ring for the clutch activation!I opened everything up for inspection.All looks clean and proper.Did find this little Easter egg.Is it a normal marking?Do have an actual question though.How does this gear come off?I need to remove it to change another leaking oil seal.
There is no oil seal behind the timing gears to change. There is an o-ring behind the gear on the crankshaft though. Good idea to replace that while you're in there.The nut on the output shaft is installed incorrectly - the beveled edge should face forward towards the star lock washer and bearing. A leak from the throw-out bearing bore is common - the bore wears from use and the o-ring will no longer seal. Your best bet is to remove the bearings from the rear cover and send it to Patrick Hayes for him to install a stainless steel sleeve into the throw-out bore. Send the triangular selector cover too for him to cut an o-ring groove into. That will eliminate two possible leak areas. The rear bearing on the output shaft shouldn't have come out of the rear cover like that. Most likely it's a loose fit due to incorrect installation in the past. Loctite Bearing Retainer will keep it in place, but you'll also likely need to put a shim between it and first gear in order for the transmission to shift correctly. The plate that fits around the shift selector assembly (with the spring loaded pawls) is installed incorrectly - it should be flipped over. I can't see how the transmission ever shifted correctly with it like that. More information here:http://thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_transmission_-_4_speed_shifting_pawl_installation.htmlAlso, the components of the transmission need to be in a certain alignment during assembly or you'll end up with a two-speed transmission. http://thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_transmission_-_proper_shaft_alignment_for_a_4_speed_transmission.htmlI've never seen markings like that - looks like it says "LAPD"? There is a circlip that must be removed before the clutch hub can be pulled off. There is another behind it that will need to be removed in order to replace the seal.
Thank you so much for the help.Will look into what is involved in replacing that O-Ring. Like you said, I am already there.There is an O-Ring in the bore of the throw out. There was a "trust bearing" type thing on the cap. That came apart in a million pieces. I assume Patrick is a member here? Since the bike will not be on the road any time soon his modification doesnt sound like a bad idea.Unsure what bearing you mean on the output shaft. I honestly do not think this bike was ever ridden or even started after "restoration" so it is 100% possible the transmission would have never worked at all. I will read those links and review the drawings Vs what I have to see if I can figure out whats what.Yeah the markings seem to say LAPD. Kind of funny. Unsure if that means anything at all.I removed the outer circlip from the hub and can feel the one behind. I dont know how the hub itself is removed though. Is it simply a press fit and a puller is needed? Or another special tool to un-thread it?
Any links or info for a DIY transmission rebuild?I guess at this point it is wise to remove everything and install it properly.What would the ball part price be to have someone do it? Cycle Garden?But I guess it can not be that much worse then the Norton Commando gear box I rebuilt last season.More time then anything else.Should I be worried that the output shaft bearing is tighter to the shaft then the cover?Any special tools I should order before digging deeper into the transmission.Would like to cross the transmission off the list first, before moving onto the next "system"Thanks again for the help.
But I reverted to a Neanderthal and hit it with a hammer.Ended up cracking the shaft.So now I need a replacement.Anyone got one?Will be hunting for a replacement.Or talk to me about a 5 speed swap.
About 5 minutes after getting to the swap meet I found an airbox for the Guzzi!Will need to be blasted, painted/coated and the rubbers replaced, but I am happy.$13!How can you beat that?While I LOVE to mock the current pods on the bike, the fact is that they work and there is no mechanical reason to replace them.I want to go back to the stock airbox purely for aesthetics.I prefer the look of the box. I like that it hides the electrical and the battery. I also think that it looks more "finished" if that makes any sense.
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