I just installed some spotlights on my T3, the House Tuning LED Spot Light kit, available on Amazon for $80. Here's what I like about them and how I hooked them up to integrate them with the headlight and my two sets of horns.
The spot lights draw 26 watts each, are made of anodized cast aluminum and look like Denalis to me (never having held a Denali in my hand). They are true spot lights and so can be mounted sideways, as I did, without changing the circular light pattern.
They come with a nice wiring harness containing a suitable relay. Since the wiring harness is said to be 12 feet long, it needs shortening. I found that the connectors for the spot lights are plug-compatible knock-offs of the size 16 Amphenol-Deutsch AT-DT connectors offered here: http://www.cycleterminal.com/amphenol-at-dt-connectors.html
. You'll need two of the female connectors, or probably just a few female sockets, which are sold separately. (Buy extras for your mistakes.) You'll also need a reasonable crimping tool. Mounting arrangement
I followed the general mounting scheme of BritChefLee, a former forum member whose posts I always liked. There are two brass plates that hang the lamps from the headlight bolts. These are connected at the bottom by an aluminum plate, painted flat black, that is also anchored via a screw to the threaded boss for the brake light switch on the lower triple tree.How I think spot lights work best as a warning
My experience with small halogen spots mounted on my Italjet 250 convinced me that flashing them about a half block away at drivers who are about to take my right of way is by far the most effective use of spot lights. Drivers get used to any lights that are constantly on, no matter how they might jiggle up and down a little on the fork lowers. But flashing a light in their eyes simply electrifies them. It's almost as though a direct connection is made to the neurons controlling their foot on the brake pedal. I wanted the same feature for my T3, so I wired them both for continuous and flashing use.How I wired them up
The new system, combining headlight, spot lights, OEM Voxbell horns, and a Nautilus air horn under my gas tank has these operation features:
1) The spotlights turn on and off independently of the other components for use in lighting up the road. This requires a single new switch on the handlebar.
2) There are three crash-avoidance zones or stages, each with its own warning requirements, per my own judgement of what works best at different distances from a potential crash. No new handlebar switches were needed.
Stage 1. Distant warning: Using the OEM headlight flasher now flashes the spotlights along with the headlight high beam.
Stage 2. Medium-distance warning: Pressing the horn button sounds the OEM Voxbell horns alone, just as before.
Stage 3. Emergency, close-distance crash warning: Pressing the horn button and the head light flasher together flashes the high beams and the spot lights, and blows the OEM horns and a Nautilus Compact air horn hidden under the gas tank.
3) For signaling other cars to dim their headlights on the road at night, it is still possible to use the original high/low beam switch without activating the spot lights (or horns!). Video demonstration
Here is a 15 second Youtube video of the resulting system in action. In it, I first flash the headlights and spotlights with the OEM flasher button as I ride toward the camera. Then I use the OEM horn button to sound the OEM Voxbell horns. Finally, as a last resort before running over the cameraman, I press the horn and flasher buttons simultaneously, releasing a full half-horsepower of light and sound! (Thanks to my son, who was the cameraman and Youtube uploading wizard.)https://youtu.be/W0vGmvbJNDQWiring
For anyone interested in the detailed wiring scheme. Three diodes were used to keep the controls separate for the various functions.
(I used the T3's original fuse box positions 5 and 6 to feed power to the relays for all components. Three new relays were installed on a steel strap beneath the left side cover of the T3. Three, 15-amp diodes were used; they were leftovers from my Italjet project where the diodes carried the full head light and spot light currents. Much lower capacity diodes are all that is needed for this system, since only the currents for the relay logic circuits are being carried.)